


& 



\ 























































































<\ 




. 






1 B * 


*0 X 


















3 o 






> 
















% 












.^' 














"Kl 

„ 



^ ■% 



- ft oi* 



V * 









x./' ^ V 



s A 






oq^ 









■ N a> X 




















/ 








r> ■ 








i 








' 


















""--- 












% f 













. 


^ 






o v 






"^ 








$ 


■*<*. 




































\ 








V 










- 


% 






-V 






















c^ r 






%< 









*+> s 



vV •/> 


































THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE 



Veder le genti e'l culto di lor fede, 

E tutto quello ond' uom saggio m' invidi : 

Quando mi giovera narrar' altrui 

Le no vita vedute, e dire — io fui — 

Ger : Lib : Cant : XV, stans. 38. 




2^Z£. __ 



2- /*/ 



/■r,>nt a miniature in the possession of Abj?i, Colles, Esg. y M.D. 



THE JOURNAL OF 

JOHN MAYNE 

DURING A TOUR ON THE 
CONTINENT UPON ITS RE- 
OPENING AFTER & <& <S> (B 

THE FALL OF NAPOLEON, 1814 
EDITED BY HIS GRANDSON 
JOHN MAYNE COLLES WITH 
NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS 



LONDON: JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD 

NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMIX 






"S-U-J-IS 



WM, BRHNDON AND SON, LTD., 1'RINTKRS, PLYMOUTH 



INTRODUCTORY NOTE 

THESE pages are contemporary notes, taken 
during a tour on the Continent when it 
was reopened to the English after the 
Revolution, immediately before " The Hun- 
dred Days." 

Mr. John Mayne was about twenty-three years old 
when he paid this visit to France and Italy and thus 
recorded his observations. He was the third son of 
Mr. Justice Mayne, of the Court of King's Bench in 
Ireland ; and was himself called to the Irish Bar in 
January, 1816. He subsequently married Anna, 
daughter of the Very Rev. Dean Graves, and died in 
the year 1829, at the age of thirty-eight. 

Mr. Mayne did not penetrate into the high places 
of politics, nor does he recount interviews with per- 
sonages. His study was of " the man in the street," 
and of continental views, manners, customs, and 
amusements generally ; and his descriptions and 
comments, expressed with kindly humour, evince 
shrewd powers of observation and criticism. 



viii INTRODUCTORY NOTE 

The travelling companions referred to in the diary, 
were his eldest brother, the Rev. Charles Mayne, and 
the wife of the latter — Susan, daughter of Mr. William 
Henn. 

Some six or seven years later, Mr. Mayne again 
made a tour of the Continent, as one of a family party 
which included his father and mother and his brother, 
Richard, who was afterwards, for nearly forty years, 
Chief Commissioner of Police in London. On this 
occasion, the diarist saw fit to modify some of the 
clear-cut opinions formed in his youth and haste, 
and added copious notes accordingly to his diary of 
1814. 

So far as such notes are here reproduced, they are 
printed in italicised paragraphs as part of the text. 

Mr. Mayne describes himself aptly as " a true Irish- 
man." For him, the mountains and lakes and islands 
of his own country constitute a standard of natural 
beauty, with which the landscapes of France, Switzer- 
land, and Italy must stand — and mostly suffer by — 
comparison ; while from his reference to " James III 
and Charles III " one may conclude that he had at 
least a sentimental sympathy with the Irish leaning 
to the " King over the Water." 

In general, however, Mr. Mayne's attitude as ob- 
server is uncompromisingly "British." True, he 



INTRODUCTORY NOTE ix 

finds somewhat to say in criticism of English manners 
in continental society ; and " there were reasons 
which made him grieve when he came into contact 
with English gentry," but similar reflections have 
occurred to many Englishmen when contemplating 
their countrymen abroad ; and there is no indication 
of any such feeling as inspired the contemporary lines 
of another Irishman, Thomas Moore : 

And is there then no earthly place 
Where we can rest in dreams Elysian, 

Without some cursed, round English face, 
Popping up near to break the vision ? 

Unquestionably British are the diarist's com- 
ments on national characteristics and on unfamiliar 
ways and customs : his naive appreciation, for in- 
stance, of the novelty of landing in France, although 
" a three-weeks' residence at Dover had made French 
appearances familiar " ; his acceptance of the fille de 
chambre at Calais as " a perfect sample of the ugliness 
a Frenchwoman may arrive at " ; his tolerance, just 
touched with pity, for the popular adoration of Na- 
poleon ; and his struggle against the regrettable dis- 
position of the foreigner to impose on an English 
milord. 

Nevertheless, Mr. Mayne was an accurate and judi- 
cious observer, and, in matters of art, a far from 



x INTRODUCTORY NOTE 

contemptible critic. His art criticism, whether of 
painting, sculpture, music, or the drama, has the 
freshness and energy of original judgment. He bows 
to no accepted convention of merit, even when re- 
cording his opinion of the world's masterpieces. 

But to those who read this journal after the lapse 
of nearly a century, its chief interest will be found in 
the minute and humorous description of daily in- 
cidents of life and travel — the preservation of just 
such details and episodes as enable us to realize the 
conditions of travel at a date so little removed from us 
that it has but just attained to the dignity of history. 

In the frank explanation offered by an Italian 
postilion, we have the key to the system of over- 
charges and " impositions " which exasperated our 
travellers and strained their knowledge of the lan- 
guage. Innkeepers and others were making the most 
of their opportunities, after the long exclusion of Eng- 
lishmen from the Continent. 

At all events, the experiences of Mrs. Piozzi, making 
a similar tour some thirty years earlier, appear to 
have been the reverse of Mr. Mayne's. Mrs. Piozzi 
expatiates on the magnificence of the apartments 
which she occupied at Milan, in 1784, for an expen- 
diture of £80 per annum ; and she gives particulars 
of a dinner for eight or nine persons, of which " the 



INTRODUCTORY NOTE xi 

whole expense, wane included, was thirteen shillings 
of our money and no more." 

Thus, while this book contributes nothing to the 
solution of political or historical problems, it presents 
a rarely definite picture of life and travel under con- 
ditions which have vanished as completely as those 
of iooo years ago ; and for the discerning reader, the 
direct simplicity of the style, and the naive frankness 
of the writer, will add joy in the perusal. 

To Mr. T. W. Lyster, the Librarian of the National 
Library of Ireland, grateful acknowledgment is hereby 
tendered of advice and facilities most kindly given in 
regard to the reproduction of contemporary prints. 

J. M. C. 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

Introductory Note vii 

CHAPTER I 
En Route for Paris 3 

CHAPTER II 
Paris 18 

CHAPTER III 
From Paris to Geneva 53 

CHAPTER IV 
Geneva 86 

CHAPTER V 
Geneva to Milan 98 

CHAPTER VI 
Milan 118 

CHAPTER VII 
Milan to Florence 126 

CHAPTER VIII 
Florence 142 

CHAPTER IX 
Florence to Rome 153 

ziii 



xiv CONTENTS 

CHAPTER X 
Rome 163 

CHAPTER XI 
Naples 254 

CHAPTER XII 
Homeward 278 

Index 295 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



John Mayne. From a miniature in the possession of 

Abraham Colles, Esq., M.D. . . . Frontispiece 

TO FACB PAGE 

Calais. From a contemporary print . . 4 

Chateau de Chantilly, before its destruction. From an 

old print . . . . . . .12 

Ruins of Queen's Farm-house, Petit Trianon. From a 

print of 1807 . . . . . .36 

A Street in Paris, with Diligence and Postilion. From 

a contemporary print . . . . .50 

Costumes of French Peasants. From a print of 1794 . 58 
Lyons. From a contemporary print . . . • 7° 

Geneva. From a contemporary print . . .88 

The Old Inn at Baveno. From a print in the possession 

of Signor Adami of Baveno . . . .112 

Sir Richard Mayne, K.C.B. From a photograph by John 
Watkins in the possession of Mrs. Broke of Gladwyns, 
Essex (daughter of Sir Richard Mayne) . . .120 

Lady Mayne. From a photograph by H. Hanfstaengl, 

Dresden, in the possession of Mrs. Broke . . 148 

The Interior of the Colosseum. From Vasi's guide-book 168 
" Susan " (Mrs. Charles Mayne). From the photograph of a 

cameo done in Rome in the possession of Mrs. Broke . 230 

Anna, Daughter of the Very Rev. Dean Graves, 
afterwards Mrs. John Mayne. From a miniature in 
the possession of Abraham Colles, Esq., M.D. . -254 

Mr. Justice Mayne. From a miniature by Comerford in 

the possession of Mrs. Broke .... 280 

Mademoiselle Mars. From the Collection of A. M. 

Broadley, Esq. . . . . . .288 



THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE 



the journal of 
: : john mayne : : 



CHAPTER I 
EN ROUTE FOR PARIS 

Calais, August, 1814. 

SAILED from Dover at five o'clock in the 
evening, August 23rd ; and landed at Calais, 
after a tedious passage, at five the next 
morning. 
At the Hotel d'Angleterre, formerly Dessein's, now 
kept by Quillacy [Quillac] and Duplessis,* considered 

* Mr. Mayne's incidental reference to the proprietors, at that 
time, of Dessein's Hotel is of some interest as solving the problem 
which perplexed Mr. John Cordy Jeaffreson as to Lady Hamilton's 
place of residence at Calais. Lady Hamilton's letter of the 4th of 
July, 1814, to the Right Hon. George Rose is dated from " Hotel 
Dessin, Calais " ; while Mrs. Ward (Horatia), writing in 1874, de- 
scribes Lady Hamilton as occupying at the time in question rooms 
in " Quillac's Hotel," which led Mr. Jeaffreson to think that Mrs. 
Ward, then in her seventy-fourth year, might have forgotten the 
name of the hotel. In a matter concerning Lady Hamilton, the 
woman of many mysteries, the explanation of even so slight a 
mystification is worth noting. 



4 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

the greatest establishment in Europe. There are be- 
tween seventy and eighty beds, and fifty for servants. 
Everything superior to what we had expected ; but 
a want of finishing and many deficiencies instantly 
attract the notice of an Englishman. Bedroom large 
and airy ; beds in recesses contained in (but them- 
selves without) posts or curtains. These recesses 
admit of walking room round the bed, and form a 
little apartment quite necessary when ladies and 
gentlemen are expected to sleep indifferently in the 
same room, as Charles, Susan and I did here. The 
fireplaces are large and without grates, adapted to 
wood fires ; a strangely misshapen tongs our only 
fire-iron. Instead of a lock to the room door, an iron 
bolt a foot long, moved by a coarse iron handle. 
Breakfast knives, something between a worn-out 
English one and a penknife. These and other such 
things are agreeably contrasted with marble tables, 
handsome chairs, great looking-glasses in every direc- 
tion, and dinner and breakfast china remarkably 
handsome. 

A three weeks' residence at Dover had made French 
appearances so familiar to us that we did not experi- 
ence in a very high degree the surprise usually felt by 
those whose change from England to France is more 
abrupt ; but women of the lower class and children, 
shops, posting carriages, horses and drivers were 
novel, and produced us infinite diversion. Our fille 
de chambre gives us no favourable impression of the 




i 



1 8 1 4 ] EN ROUTE FOR PARIS 5 

sisterhood : she seems a perfect sample of the ugliness 
a Frenchwoman may arrive at. A large-boned, shape- 
less figure, with coarse skin and staring eyes, her waist 
above her breast and petticoats to her knees ; every 
part of her dress dirty but her stockings, which are 
particularly white. 

We remain here to-day making preparation for the 
road. We have hired a cabriolet to Paris for 150 
livres, a very unreasonable price ; for as the traveller 
is without remedy, there being no opposition, he must 
repose himself upon the conscience of his landlord, 
and that is no easy pillow. 

Calais to Abbeville. — 25^. — Mounted our cabriolet 
at half-past six. This machine is on two wheels, 
clumsy and ill-shaped. The first sight of it threw us 
into absolute despair, and we imagined it impossible 
to make use of it, but finding that we had no choice 
we became reconciled to our fate, and at the end of 
our first day's journey we all much doubt whether it 
be not preferable to an English post-chaise. The two 
wheels give it an easier motion ; it is small, yet carries 
a vast quantity of luggage, and it admits a free cir- 
culation of air in hot weather. It should always be 
remembered, however, that a cabriolet for three 
Frenchmen will accommodate but two Englishmen, and 
so in proportion ; for the continentalists have uni- 
versally a power of contracting their bodies and legs, 
and of reconciling their minds to bear this contraction 
for a number of hours altogether impossible to an 



6 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

Englishman. The dress of the postilion is like that 
of our horse-guards blue, except the hat, which is round. 
There are two chief merits in a finished postilion : 
the cracking of his whip, and the number of buttons on 
the skirts of his coat, which we counted as many as 
forty-six. He proceeds in perfect silence, or perhaps 
sings an air, for about five minutes ; then suddenly, 
without any visible cause, rises in his stirrups and for 
the space of a minute or two cracks his whip about 
his head with the utmost fury ; then relapses into 
his former placidity. This perfection of cracking is 
not easily attained to, and many fail in the attempt ; 
but an incessant practice goes on at each ftoste aux 
chevaux and some will of course succeed. The whip, 
besides serving to cheer the poor postilion on his way, 
is a horn to clear the way and an avant courier to be- 
speak horses at the poste. With so many uses, the 
time spent on it need not be regretted. 

Roads excellent. Near Boulogne our attention was 
called to a wonderful something approaching ; its 
appearance was of a straggling troop of runaway 
horses, with a rough cabin at some distance in pursuit 
of them. It turned out to be a coach-and-four ; the 
coach like anything in the world but a coach, the 
horses running wide in all directions, and a man dressed 
in a blue shirt like our tallow-chandlers, vainly en- 
deavouring to guide them by a thing resembling the 
mast and streamer of a ship, which he circled round 
his head without ceasing. There were reins, but he 



1 8 1 4 ] EN ROUTE FOR PARIS 7 

did not appear to be acquainted with the intention of 
them. 

Our passports examined going into Boulogne, where 
we got a dirty and uncomfortable breakfast. The 
town large and fortified ; military on parade, clean 
and soldierly looking. Boulogne is remarkable for 
being the great flotilla port from which was to issue 
our destruction. The only remains of this formidable 
armament are some crazy, stranded wrecks. Met on 
the road a care in full suit of black and cassock, riding ; 
he took off his hat and saluted us most respectfully. 
Shortly after, an old man, remarkably well dressed, 
with knee- and shoe-buckles, dressed wig and cocked 
hat, driving a cart and sitting astride with his feet 
on the shafts — he took off his hat and made us a low 
bow which we could hardly compose our countenances 
to return. To-day we had, among other novelties, 
that of women riding " d calif or chon " : they contrive 
to make it a very decent way. 

At Nampont the maitre de poste made a shameful 
attempt to cheat us into paying for four horses in- 
stead of three. He cunningly began by asking to see 
our livre de poste, supposing we had none : in which 
he was confirmed by our declining to produce it, as 
it was troublesome to get at the bag in which it was. 
He then insisted that we should either pay or remain 
there. With our scanty language a battle was not 
easily to be managed, but we at length produced our 
book and routed the Frenchman. Charles, in the 



8 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

height of his indignation, at once threw off all trammels 
of grammar and syntax and closed a vehement in- 
vective with " vous avez delay ons nous beaucoup et 
vous etcs bien troublesome" All the spectators stared 
in admiration of his eloquence, and the niaftre de 
ftoste, who knew at least what he deserved, slunk off. 

We arrived late at Abbeville and found the Hotel 
de l'Europe in all respects admirable. The lady of 
the house remained in the room during supper, and 
took pains to make us talk and to instruct us. Our 
attendant, a pretty little girl when she smiled, though 
at other times plain, talked a great deal and was vastly 
delighted with our various mistakes, which she usually 
took care to correct. The people here speak a patois, 
and this made us the less intelligible to each other. 
A boy waiter attended us for some time who was sure 
to answer every question with Comment, Monsieur ? 
or Plait-il, Monsieur ? drawled out in a most melan- 
choly tone of voice. We had not supposed that any 
Frenchman could have been so dull. I imagine he 
was a quaker and in a melancholy madness. 

Abbeville to Breteuil — 26th. — Our postilion from this 
is the first we have met with the real French boots. 
Every description we had heard served only to make 
our astonishment the greater ; they are beyond all 
imagination ; somewhat like large churns covered with 
leather. The stirrup made to receive them is at least 
a foot high. They are laid standing near the horse 
and the postilion, when about to mount, walks into 



1 8 1 4 ] EN ROUTE FOR PARIS 9 

them with his shoes on, and often with leather gaiters. 
This first driver was a tall, thin, hatchet-faced fellow, a 
caricature of our caricatures of the French. He was 
a true Bonapartist and did not attempt to disguise 
it. At the end of the first post we gave him a louis 
to change ; he examined it for some time, shrugged 
his shoulders, and in a most contemptuous manner 
said, holding it up to those about him, " Louis dix- 
huitr We of course looked pleased, and answered, 
" Out, oui, Louis XVIII." 

At Amiens, visited the cathedral, but had not time 
to examine it attentively. They were performing 
some service. This was the first Catholick church I 
ever entered, and the number of chapels, with their 
paintings and decorations, the altars and candles, 
surprised and interested me. 

The inn is good. Our dinner, wholly French, was 
(with the exception of a small bit of roast veal) all 
swimming in oil. I set out with a resolution to eat 
without mercy all kinds of sauces, fricacies, oils, bad 
butter, etc. The dessert good. Beggars here, and 
in most places hitherto, extremely troublesome. No 
one seems to think it a disgrace to beg ; but decent- 
looking women and children join in the cry, not ap- 
pearing in general to expect anything, but not choosing 
to miss a possibility. 

At Breteuil, the inn large, old and dirty ; the stair- 
case of stone with iron railing, passages and lobbies 
nagged ; the rooms prodigiously lofty and dark, 



io THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

hung from top to bottom with tapestry ; the quilts 
made to lit the beds like a chair- or sopha-cover. 
Everything dirty, bad, and extravagantly dear ; the 
woman of the house like an old ugly witch. Left this 
in ill-humour with them for cheating us, and with our- 
selves for being cheated. 

Breteuil to Chantilly. — 2jth. — Left Breteuil early, 
and reached Chantilly at two o'clock. The first paved 
road begins at Clermont ; as, also, the first vineyards. 
Apple and pear trees in rows at each side of the road. 
All who came to France immediately on the Peace, 
agreed in stating the total want of men employed in 
the fields, and that women alone were to be seen. 
Women have at all periods been more employed in 
such work in France than in England, but we now 
see everywhere an equal proportion of men and women 
working together. All this country, though particu- 
larly rich in produce, is to the eye the poorest I have 
ever seen ; the want of trees, hedgerows, or fences of 
any description, gives it the bleakest, most barren 
appearance imaginable. 

At Chantilly, the instant we drove into the inn- 
yard, two smiths ran to our cabriolet, and having ex- 
amined it, assured me that the wheels were greatly 
broken, but that they would arrange them. I ex- 
amined likewise, and thinking the wheels quite suffi- 
cient, begged that the gentlemen would not trouble 
themselves. A few minutes after, going by chance 
into the yard, I found these vulcans, with all their 



1 8 1 4 ] EN ROUTE FOR PARIS n 

apparatus, beginning to take off our wheels. They 
were quickly routed, in sad disappointment, as they 
must have counted on two or three louis at least ; 
for a friend of ours had been taken-in by these same 
men, and charged a louis for what was not worth more 
than four or five francs at the most. When I re- 
turned to the house, I found the landlady waiting to 
beg that, if the men were going to do anything for me, 
I would make my bargain beforehand, as they were 
very unreasonable. Mem. — In France all cheating is 
fair, and if the subject be an English milord, meritorious. 

Visited the celebrated stables, and the remains of> 
the once magnificent chateau. The stables are but 
little injured ; their outside bears the appearance of a 
noble palace. The last inhabitants were the Polish 
lancers, going into Spain, about five years ago. There 
are no remains of the garden, except pieces of water 
and some broken jets d'eau and statues. The chateau 
is rased to the ground ; broken columns and mutilated 
statues He amidst the heaps of rubbish. The universal 
desolation of the place, joined with the recollection 
of the greatness of its possessors, its former magni- 
ficence, and the manner of its destruction, cannot 
fail to excite sensations of the highest interest in all 
who now visit this once celebrated spot. 

Our guide related the acts of fury committed here, 
so much con spirito, as fully to impress us with the 
belief that he was no calm spectator of the scenes he 
described. It was impossible to avoid smiling at his 



12 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

pretended horror and his lamentations over the broken 
legs and arms. Whenever we exclaimed, he was ready 
to cry, " Ah, miser ablcs ! — coquins ! — pauvre lion ! 
Ah, monsieur, rcgardez la pauvre tete" His com- 
passion was all bestowed upon the pieces of marble. 
Once, indeed, while we were remarking a headless lion, 
he observed that it would have been the same with 
mon Prince (as he always called him) had he been 
there. 

The palace occupied by the Duke d'Enghien, which 
stood separate at a little distance from the grand 
building, is preserved entire by the circumstance of 
its having been the residence of a Polish colonel during 
the disturbances. An old woman, formerly servant 
to the family, conducted us through the apartments. 
She drew from a drawer some little pictures of the 
Conde family, which she had with some risk con- 
cealed during the Revolution. She talked of the 
family and their restoration in expressions that seemed 
to be uttered in real sincerity and fullness of heart. 
The only movable that remains of the splendid furni- 
ture is a silk cord and lead, from which a lustre had 
been suspended. 

Although we had ordered a dinner of a few dishes, 
yet remove followed remove till we thought there was 
to be no end of our eating ; and the whole was crowned 
with a handsome dessert of peaches, plums, pears, and 
grapes. After dinner I walked out and met in the 
inn garden a gentleman who accosted me and entered 



i8i 4 ] EN ROUTE FOR PARIS 13 

into conversation with me. In half an hour's con- 
versation he made me acquainted with his whole his- 
tory, his past adventures and his future prospects. 
He had emigrated with the Royal Family, but re- 
turned to France in 1802, and remained during the 
war. He had served in Holland with the Duke of York, 
who behaved kindly to him and gave him a cornetcy 
in our Hussars. His expectations of recovering his 
estates (which were considerable) he seemed to think 
well founded, and thought the Royalists had "bien 
d plaindre " of the King, who delayed their reward. 
At parting he expressed much pleasure at having " fait 
connoissance " with me, hoping to be remembered if 
we should meet at Paris, and begging that I would do 
him the favour to visit him at Fontainbleau in my 
route, when he would introduce me to his wife and 
daughter. He gave me his name : Mons. le Vicomte 
de Boubers. 

(Note of 1821. The familiarity with which French- 
men use strangers has always been a remarkable feature 
in their character. When Cardinal Wolsey was sent 
into France as ambassador, he assembled his suite and 
gave them advice for the regulation of their conduct ; 
amongst other things he says, " The nature of Frenchmen 
is such that at the first meeting they will be as familiar 
with you, as they had bene acquainted with you long 
before, and common with you in their French tongue as 
though you understoode every worde ; therefore use them 
in like manner and be as familiar with them as they be 



i 4 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

with you. If they speake in their naturall tongue, 
spcake you againe to them in the Englishe tongue, for if 
you understand not them, no more shall they under- 
stande you. 19 — Wordsworthe's Eecl. Biog.) 

The inn here is very good, and the people extremely 
civil. We parted good friends, the lady hoping to see 
us on our return. 

Chantilly to Paris. — 28th. — The posting, as in other 
countries, improves near the capital. The horses, 
harness and the dress of postilions, is better, and there 
is less delay in changing horses. The vast difference 
between the bustle and crowds on the roads near 
London and the total absence of both on those near 
Paris, cannot fail to strike an English traveller. We 
hardly met a carriage or cart of any description before 
we entered the town. 

(Note. A writer in the Edinb. Rev., Oct. 181 9, 
states that having counted the carriages, etc., on the road 
from London to Dover by the less frequented way of 
Maidstone and Hithe, and on an equal number of miles 
from Paris to Calais, the result was : 

England France 
Public carriages . 26 5 

Private do. with post or private 

horses 101 j 

Persons on horseback . . 52 2) 

In this day's journey (Sunday) we everywhere ob- 
served labourers at work as usual, and here all the 



i-8 14] EN ROUTE FOR PARIS 15 

shops open. I had occasion to call at the great 
banker's — Perregaux — and there the business was 
uninterrupted : and this in and around the capital of 
His Most Christian Majesty's dominions. 

In the evening, walked through part of the town, 
and saw the great bronze column in the Place de la 
Concorde, raised to the glory of the French army. 
The idea of thus making the spoils of an enemy record 
his overthrow was certainly fine ; but the column 
of Trajan has furnished to this all its architectural 
merit. When the Allies entered Paris this year, the 
statue of Bonaparte was pulled down, and the white 
flag now waves in its place ; but another statue is, 
it is said, to be erected, which the beauty of the 
column requires. The garden of the Thuilleries, 
through which I passed, was crowded with well- 
dressed people. It is the most splendid thing in its 
kind that I have ever seen, but not greatly to my taste. 
It consists, like other French gardens, of long, straight 
walks and rows of trees, orangeries and jets d'eau. 
There are some fine statues, and the general effect 
when the gardens are crowded is very good. 

I called in at an apothecary's and asked the prices of 
different articles. Castor-oil would cost about four 
louis a pint, but it is almost never used here ; spirits 
of wine, but two francs the pint. The apothecaries 
do not study medicine and are mere druggists. A 
young man in the shop, in order to vex me, talked 
loudly in abuse of the English and in praise of Bona- 



16 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

parte, calling him, great, good, admirable Napoleon. 
He took particular care to assure me that the French 
were not at all injured or distressed by the long war, 
but continued rich in spite of our attempts to depress 
their commerce. This is a subject on which the French 
appear to feel very sore. An Englishman, who now 
walks in triumph through the streets of the capital 
of humbled France, need not be very proud of listening 
with temper to attacks upon his country dictated by 
disappointment and mortified vanity ; and when this 
young gentleman ended a vehement harangue in praise 
of " the Emperor " (as he always termed him) with : 
" He would have swallowed up your country," I could 
very easily answer, " Most likely, if my country had 
not swallowed him up first." 

As I returned home it was growing dark, and I could 
not easily make out the street in which we lodged. A 
gentleman who observed my difficulty addressed me 
and begged to know if he could assist me. Immediately 
afterwards, as we walked along, he, with a thousand 
apologies, hoped I would excuse him asking me a 
question : He had been a prisoner to the English and 
was now in possession of an English song in which 
there was one word the meaning of which had baffled 
all his skill in our language ; perhaps I would have the 
kindness to explain it. After a long search he drew 
forth his manuscript, and his difficulty did not much 
surprise me when I came to examine it — the word was 
" peerlish." The composition was a love-sonnet, and 



1 8 1 4 ] EN ROUTE FOR PARIS 17 

the poet's flame was beautifully addressed as " my 
peerlish Queen." My friend had never been able to 
arrive at any word nearer to it than " pearl." I told 
him it was tres vilain anglais, and ought to be written 
" peerless " ; and then the difficulty was to make 
him comprehend what " peerless " meant. He knew 
that Lord Castlereagh and others of our great men 
were peers, but how a fair lady could be complimented 
by the epithet peerless, passed his comprehension. 
He rose some degrees in my estimation before we 
parted by asking me whether I was a Scotchman, as 
he was anxious to send " one little present " to some 
friends in Scotland who had shown hirnkindness while 
he was a prisoner there. 



CHAPTER II 

PARIS 

Paris. — August 29th. 

ON our arrival in Paris, we could not accom- 
modate ourselves to our liking at an hotel, 
and we are in private lodgings in the Rue 
Favart, close to the best part of the boule- 
vards. They consist of a sitting- and dining-room and 
two bedchambers, for which we are to pay five louis 
a week. The rooms are low and dark, but neatly 
furnished ; in London they would be considered magni- 
ficent. The drawing-room is hung with good prints. 
Ornamental clock on the chimney-piece, two large 
looking-glasses in each room, pannels of looking-glass in 
the bedroom doors, plate-glass windows, marble tables, 
beautiful breakfast china — all this sounds well ; but 
the doors are badly finished, and painted in the com- 
monest manner, a rough iron bolt supplies the place 
of a lock and is raised by a large key that always stands 
in the keyhole, the chairs are indifferent, and the floors 
of tile or brick. The entrance is across a spacious 
court, and the staircase, being common to the whole 
house which contains many families, is covered with 
filth of every kind. However, we are in the best 

18 



i8i 4 ] PARIS 19 

situation in the town, and these lodgings are reason- 
ably cheap. 

A valet-de-place is indispensable ; we have taken 
one without a syllable of English ; he gets five francs 
per day. It is the way here for the valet to make 
your bed and arrange the bedchamber even of ladies. 
Indeed, since our landing in France we have had 
frequent occasion to remark that the delicacy be- 
tween males and females, so strictly attended to in 
England, is here unthought-of. To-day and yester- 
day the heat has been excessive, but owing to the 
impossibility of a ray of sun ever striking upon our 
apartments, and to the tiled floor, which is constantly 
sprinkled with water, we are almost cold in the house. 

This morning our attendant came in to say that a 
lady and gentleman " voudroient bien nous souhaiter 
le bonjour" We, with all possible speed, returned 
an answer in our best French, signifying our willing- 
ness to be wished good morning, and in walked a 
gentleman and two ladies. They begged us not to 
" der anger " (a word eternally used and that means 
everything that is not " arranger" as this does 
everything that is not " der anger "), and monsieur, 
much to our relief, addressed us in tolerable English. 
During their visit, however, I contrived to edge in 
some intelligible sentences to the ladies, who did not 
fail to pay me many compliments on my proficiency 
in their language. When they had sat a short'time, 
the gentleman informed us that he had three daughters 



20 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

in the house who would be happy to see us, and in 
accordingly they came — nice, genteel girls, one of them 
very pretty. 

At parting, they offered many civilities and begged 
that if we were in want of anything we would apply 
to them. We found upon inquiry that they were the 
owners of our apartments, who, wishing to go for some 
time to the country, had been glad to let them. 

In the evening we walked to the Elysian fields, 
which were handsomely illuminated and excessively 
crowded. The town also was illuminated, which 
fortunately gave us an opportunity of comparing a 
Paris with a London and Dublin illumination. In 
Dublin the general effect is, in my opinion, far superior 
to both the others, even when the publick buildings 
are not handsomely ornamented. 

30th. — To the post-office, a vast establishment, to 
all appearance conducted with perfect regularity. I 
have already been often forced to compare French 
and English politeness ; and whatever may be the 
difference of manner between the two nations, I can- 
not help thinking that in the essential parts of good- 
breeding, their natural feeling constantly gives the 
English a manifest superiority over their more bending 
neighbours. An English woman who walks the streets 
of Paris experiences an unfeeling, impudent rudeness, 
which was certainly not offered to those French ladies 
who visited London immediately after the Peace. 
There, if the towering head and spacious flower- 



1814] PARIS 21 

garden excited astonishment, that astonishment was 
not rudely expressed, and gentlemen, at least, did 
not stare till they had passed ; but here, the moment 
an English head appears, the alarm is spread, and 
" tete anglaise — quelle figure anglaise ! " is heard on 
every side. Possibly a French shrug, incomprehensible 
to foreigners, may, like the shake of Lord Burleigh's 
head, have much concealed in it and cause this to 
signify politeness, but in England it would be pure 
unsophisticated rudeness. 

I have been in the Louvre, and have seen those 
objects to which the admiration of the whole civilized 
world has so long been directed. To-day I am so 
overpowered as to be incapable of recollecting any one 
thing. While there, I found it absolutely impossible 
to fix my attention for a moment on any single object ; 
independent of its treasures, the very extent and 
magnificence of the gallery are alone enough to engage 
the mind. I never remember to have been so com- 
pletely justified when my expectations had been so 
highly raised. 

The paintings are arranged according to their dif- 
ferent schools, and the works of each master are, in 
general, together. Besides the great gallery there are 
two saloons containing pictures, and a gallery of 
designs, cartoons, bronzes, bas-reliefs, etc. 

In the evening to the Theatre Fran$ais, where for 
the first time I witnessed the representation of a 
French tragedy. As far as my knowledge goes, it 



22 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Aug. 

was in all respects unlike nature and unlike every- 
thing that the stage should be like. I must own, 
however, that I had never read the tragedy (Tan- 
crede) and did not understand above half that was 
said, yet I saw and heard enough to convince me that 
French tragedy and I must ever be at enmity. 

(Note of 1821. — / retract this sweeping condemnation 
of French tragedy. A better acquaintance with the 
language and the compositions themselves, as well as 
with continental gesture, has reconciled me to their stage ; 
and on my second visit to Paris I saw a tragedy in which 
Talma performed, and I was highly gratified.) 

There was an entertaining after-piece, lively and 
well performed ; indeed, the inferior parts are in- 
finitely better supported here than in London, and 
there is a spirit and natural action in most Frenchmen 
such as art can seldom supply to an Englishman. 
The house itself is one of the dirtiest and ugliest I 
ever was in, of moderate size ; the orchestra was 
indifferent. Unfortunately for us, Talma and some 
of the best actors are at the provincial theatres during 
this season. 

31st. — I spent this whole day in the Louvre, the 
greater part of the time among the statues ; my brain 
was somewhat cooled to-day, and I was able to ex- 
amine with some attention the most remarkable of 
them. Those which in my opinion are most admirable 
are the Dying Gladiator or Gaul, the Laocoon and the 
Apollo. The renowned Venus gave me less surprise 






1814] PARIS 23 

and less pleasure than any of these or than many 
others of less note. There appears to me to be nothing 
in this which I could not easily have imagined within 
the power of the chisel. I do not venture to criticise 
her form, or object to the size of her head ; I take it 
for granted the proportions are perfect, the finishing 
without fault ; but I cannot perceive any life in this 
statue. Had I seen this and this alone, I should 
ever have considered the expressions of "living marble " 
and " breathing stone " most hyperbolical. The 
sinking weakness of approaching death in the Gladiator 
is wonderfully expressed. The group of the Laocoon 
is open to criticism ; the boys may be thought small 
beyond all proportion to the size of the father, and 
other objections may be made ; but the principal 
figure is dreadfully real, and I never could look upon 
it without a feeling of horror. No one, I believe, has 
ever felt disappointment on seeing the Apollo : this 
statue speaks equally to the learned and the ignorant. 
Imperfect in its proportions (for one leg is longer than 
the other and the back ill-executed) this incompar- 
able work rests its whole merit on the great expression 
of its character, and its character is that of a divinity. 
The torso of Michael Angelo I need say nothing of, 
for a great body without breast or head, and thighs 
to the knee, cannot pretend to please any but con- 
noisseurs. I walked once through the Great Gallery, 
and saw, for the first time in my life, a picture by 
Raffaelle. 



24 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

September ist. — To the King's chapel in the Thuil- 
leries : he goes every day to mass in state. Tickets 
of admission to the chapel are issued, but we, as English, 
were readily admitted, and a good place procured 
for Susan by an officer. About quarter of an hour 
before the King appeared, Monsieur * was announced 
and walked close to us through the gallery, attended 
by several officers. When His Majesty was about to 
enter, an officer advanced to the front of his seat and 
announced with a loud voice " Le Rot ! " He entered 
with much state, attended by Monsieur, the Duke and 
Duchess of Angouleme,f and several persons of rank. 

* Charles Philippe, Comte d'Artois, the King's brother, was at 
this time fifty-seven years of age. He was of an open and generous 
character ; but the surroundings of his grandfather's Court, and 
his own attractive personal appearance, had induced an early life 
of dissipation, and he had no aptitude for books or study. His 
wife, Marie Therese de Savoie, had died in the year 1806. His 
sons are referred to in the text. After his inglorious campaign in 
La Vendee in 1795 he resided for some time at Holyrood Palace, 
and subsequently in London. On the 12th of April, 18 14, he had 
made triumphal entry into Paris, amid the enthusiastic plaudits of 
the mob. He succeeded to the throne, as Charles X, on the 16th 
of September, 1824, at the age of sixty-seven, and, after having 
abdicated in 1830, died in exile in the year 1836. 

f Louis-Antoine de Bourbon, due d'Angouleme, the eldest son 
of Monsieur, had been brought up at Turin. In 1799, at the age of 
twenty-four, he married the little Madame Royale, the heroine 
of the Temple prison, who had at the last moment been saved 
from the guillotine by the intervention of Austria, after the deaths 
of her father, mother, aunt and brother. After issuing a success- 
ful proclamation to the French of the South, the duke had joined 
the King in Paris^on the 27th of May, 18 14, being then in his thirty- 
ninth year. On his father's accession to the throne the old title 
of Dauphin was revived in his behalf. 



1814] PARIS 25 

After the service, the King retired to his apartments, 
passing through a very large room into which every- 
one who pleased was admitted. The crowd was great, 
and they cheered — precisely like Frenchmen. 

From this to the Monumens Fr unguis. These are 
a collection, made after the Revolution, of those 
monuments which, as belonging to churches, shared 
with them the outrages of enlightened impiety. They 
are arranged according to their date, and form an 
interesting exhibition. 

Gave an hour and half to Raffaelle's paintings in 
the Louvre. Some of the finest of his oil paintings are 
here. When Sir J. Reynolds and others talk of their 
disappointment on the first view of Raffaelle's works, 
they must be understood to mean his frescoes. The 
beauty of the others must, I think, be intelligible from 
the first to everyone, whether skilled in painting or 
not. For myself, without any affectation, I could gaze 
on some of them for ever ; and while I look upon them 
I am almost ready to pardon Bonaparte all his sins. 

In the evening to the Theutre Feydeuu. At this 
theatre, opera and comedy are performed alternately. 
To-night, most fortunately for me, was Zemire et Azor, 
the most favourite composition of Gretry. The 
principal parts were by a lady who is making her debut, 
and a man who is a great favourite. She has no 
qualifications but a voice naturally good, which she 
always keeps in her throat ; her singing is forced, in- 
articulate and out of tune ; she was, however, warmly 



26 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

applauded. He is a good actor with a full, sweet, 
tolerably well-managed voice — his style very pleasing. 
On the whole I was more pleased than I had expected 
to be. The orchestra consisted of about thirty-five 
performers. When we first entered the box, a gentle- 
man sitting in the first row began immediately to con- 
verse with us. He set out with informing us that there 
was to be performed a national piece, which was very 
well for those that liked it, but that he was of a different 
way of thinking. He afterwards told us that, at the 
age of fourteen, he had been brought from Italy with 
two of his brothers by Bonaparte, who put him into 
the military school and afterwards gave him a com- 
mission in the Imperial Guard. He served under 
Napoleon through all his campaigns until the Spanish 
war, when he marched into Spain, where he remained 
till the Peace. On that occasion he took his dismissal, 
not choosing to serve against the cause of his Master 
or under a man whom he hated. He talked without 
reserve of his love of Bonaparte. Once, speaking of 
his conduct on the field, he said, "Ah! when he used 
to gallop up to us and cry ' avancez, mes enfans ! ' I 
could have adored him." I asked about the French 
army and its generals. He said a quarter of the 
army was always composed of tirailleurs. There were 
generals in the French service adapted to every kind 
of warfare ; Soult and Victor had been formed in 
the Tirol, and were unquestionably superior to the 
others in a country of river and mountain like Spain ; 



1814] PARIS 27 

this is the most difficult kind of country. Victor, 
who was evidently his favourite, he extolled highly 
as a man of good education and mild disposition ; 
Davoust, a mere soldier. I tried, as far as politeness 
would permit, to engage him to say something about 
Wellington, but he always avoided it, although I even 
asked him whether he had ever seen him. To a re- 
mark of mine he warmly protested that the French 
army had never felt any hatred towards the English, 
and that " he would gladly have changed poles with 
them at any time." When the national piece was 
commencing, he requested that I would take his place. 
This I declined, but during the performance he sud- 
denly jumped up and insisted on my allowing him to 
stand back in the box, as he could not bear to see 
them drink the King's health. The piece was rap- 
turously applauded, although our friend did not give 
it his countenance. He stood in the corner of the box, 
groaning at each cheer, and cursing the French who 
had, he declared, no character, but were just like 
" things we hang out of our windows." 

2nd. — To the Mother-church of Notre Dame. This 
church had long been celebrated for its riches and 
its relics, but in the Revolution it experienced more 
than its share of the popular indignation towards 
religious buildings. It was robbed of everything 
valuable in it ; the very woodwork and whatever 
was movable were torn down and sold. The building 
itself was, with appropriate ceremonies, dedicated to 



28 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

the Goddess of Reason, and an abandoned female who 
personated that divinity stood upon the insulted altar 
to receive the adorations of the populace. When 
religion was again acknowledged by the French 
Government, this church was refitted and beautified, 
and many handsome presents were made to it by 
Bonaparte, who was solemnly crowned here. In an 
upper apartment curiosities are exhibited — the crown 
and sceptre of Charlemagne and those of Napoleon, 
and the robes worn by him and the Empress at their 
coronation. The conductors here were full of Bona- 
parte and his greatness. 

From this we drove to the Pantheon, a superb 
building newly ornamented and scraped by Bonaparte, 
who from thus repairing has, with many, the credit 
of having erected it, a mistake not uncommon with 
respect to other buildings. The Pantheon, or church 
of S. Genevieve, is now dedicated to the reception 
of the ashes and monuments of the great men of 
France. The inscription over the front of the building 
is simple and striking : " Aux grands homines la patrie 
veconnoissanteP From the top of this building we had 
a fine view of the town and of the surrounding country. 
We had the country pointed out to us over which the 
allied armies marched, and the roads by which they 
entered the city. The Germans, whether by accident 
or design, passed over the bridge of Austerlitz. To 
those who have never seen any large town out of 
Great Britain, it is very extraordinary to look down 



i8i 4 J PARIS 29 

upon one over which the air is perfectly clear and un- 
mixed with smoke. I had never considered the case 
of a town in which wood only was burned, and when 
I first came out upon the gallery here, I was for some 
minutes unable to account for the distinctness with 
which all parts of the town, and even the country on 
every side, were seen. 

I conversed, as we walked about here, with a man 
who happened to join us. In this place the discourse 
naturally turned upon Napoleon, and he talked with 
perfect freedom, and in a loud voice, in praise of him. 
This man declared his conviction that Marmont had 
been treacherous, and that had the French army been 
allowed to defend Paris, the Russians were destroyed ; 
M mats, Monsieur," said he, " Napoleon a ete trahi, 
beaucoup trahi." He made a neat distinction for the 
honour of the Parisians, and anxiously assured me 
that Paris surrendered and was not taken. He pointed 
out the different works begun or finished or repaired 
by Bonaparte ; and concluded by warmly saying, 
" Monsieur, jamais personne a tant travaille." Thus, 
at every turn we find the individuals fearlessly and 
openly proclaiming their sentiments of Bonaparte ; 
yet whenever the general opinion is called forth, as 
at the theatres, it is strongly expressed in favour of 
the existing state of things. 

To the national Garden of Plants, amongst which 
are elephants, lions, tigers, bears, wolves and other 
such rare exotics, in separate parterres. The garden 



3 o THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

is extensive, and the whole seems in good order, but 
we could not afford time to examine it with any care. 

The great Museum of Natural History is the most 
splendid I have ever seen, and the arrangement of it, 
in most departments, admirable. The collection of 
animals, in particular, is most extensive. To this, 
as to every other publick exhibition in Paris, the 
English have at all times free admission. In this 
museum are preserved the extraordinary fossil re- 
mains collected by Cuvier. 

In the evening to the great opera. The vocal per- 
formance below criticism, and the musick indifferent 
composition. It was truly astonishing to see the 
attention of the audience to a scene, more than half 
an hour long, where an old man roared sometimes in 
song, sometimes in recitative, accompanied at in- 
tervals by the shrieking of an uninteresting young 
female. I never experienced musick so distressing, 
for the effect was too painful to allow of a refuge in 
sleep ; yet this cheerful people bore it with exemplary 
patience, and once or twice seemed almost to have a 
mind to applaud. Indeed the French, notwithstand- 
ing their usual gaiety, are in some instances greatly 
addicted to triste performances. The orchestra con- 
sists of nearly sixty performers, whereas our opera 
band seldom musters forty. This is undoubtedly a 
great and fine orchestra ; but to multiply instruments 
beyond a certain number, which must be determined 
principally by the place in which they are to be heard, 



i8i 4 ] PARIS 31 

is, in my opinion, to multiply difficulties without any 
real object. A less number of excellent performers 
(besides their being more easily procured) will be more 
effective than a far greater number less good ; and 
this disadvantage is, I think, experienced here, for 
this great orchestra sounded in my ears less full and less 
mellow than our opera band, although the number of 
basses and wind instruments is greater in proportion. 
In the ballet, a small flute incessantly used was success- 
ful in assimilating the band greatly to that of a march- 
ing regiment. I had no opportunity of judging of 
Kreutzer's leading or playing. The time is marked 
by the conductor, and he, sitting on a row with the 
rest, seemed to play his part with as much indifference 
as any of his companions. His bowing seemed firm 
and strong. The far-famed French ballet disappointed 
me greatly. The principal dancers are I think better 
in London, and I have seen more and better mechanism 
at both Drury Lane and Co vent Garden, with splendour 
greater beyond comparison. The figurantes are ex- 
cellent, and consequently the grouping is certainly 
superior to anything on our stage, and produces a 
beautiful effect. I ought to mention that the ballet 
performed to-night is considered a bad one. 

3rd. — I was this morning introduced to Pleyel,* 
the celebrated composer, who has a musick shop and 

* Joseph Etienne Camille Pleyel (1788 — 1855) was the son of 
Ignace Pleyel, the celebrated German composer. Joseph, who was 
himself a composer and pianist, settled in Paris as a manufacturer 
of pianos, and became afterwards the partner of Kalkbrenner. 



32 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

makes pianofortes. He told us that he still composes, 
and has a set of quartettes ready for publication. His 
countenance is intelligent and amiable, and his whole 
appearance most pleasing. 

We called at an optician's, to examine an invention 
whose object is to get rid of the errors of sphericity in 
lenses, which is the great obstacle to the improvement 
of telescopes. He was not at home, but we are to go 
again. 

Passed three hours and a half in the Louvre. Each 
visit to this wonderful place only renders me more 
anxious to return to it. 

4th. — Sunday. — There is but one Protestant church 
in Paris, and to this we went. On our entering it, a 
man came forward and asked whether we were not 
looking for " la chapelle pour les Anglais." I, sup- 
posing that this chapel must be some kind of recess 
appropriated to the English, answered in the affirma- 
tive, upon which we were conducted to a small chapel 
off the church, in which service was going on in English ; 
fortunately for us, near the end. An extempore ser- 
mon was delivered by one of the very worst specimens 
of our canting Methodists, who read to us many pas- 
sages from Scripture, of which he said he was very 
fond, and told us he felt convinced that Bishop Leighton 
" had a very great regard for our Saviour." It was 
mortifying to have this exhibition given to the Parisians 
as a sample of our Church service. When this was con- 
cluded we returned into the church, and heard prayers 



i8i 4 ] PARIS 33 

said and a sermon preached in a very impressive manner 
by a fine-looking, interesting old man. He wore the 
two crosses and red and white ribbons outside of his 
gown, which to our eyes was a little out of character 
in the pulpit. From this we proceeded to the Louvre 
where, it being a publick day, the crowd was immense. 
The shops are, with a few exceptions, open as on com- 
mon days, and Sunday night is always the most 
splendid at the opera-house. 

$th. — This morning we left Paris, with our Solicitor- 
General (Bushe) * and a large party, to visit St. Cloud, 
Versailles, etc. 

The palace at St. Cloud is splendid beyond imagina- 
tion ; the furniture, decorations, and everything about 
it, in the highest style of magnificence. Great palaces 
are not easily described, and if described are usually 
most uninteresting in the description. This, like others, 
contains rooms, and rooms, and rooms — some larger, 
some smaller ; all well known to their showman as 
sheep to the shepherd, but, like them, hardly to be dis- 
tinguished by a stranger. There are some good 
paintings of the old masters, and a great many by 
modern artists, amongst which a representation of the 
death of General Dessaix is placed in a conspicuous 
situation. In one of the apartments there are busts 
of the most distinguished generals since the Revolu- 
tion ; we observed one of our old friend, Hoche. The 
bedrooms of the Emperor and Empress are shown ; 
* See p. 37. 

D 



34 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

and the dinner-table (with the spot where he used to 
sit) is pointed out. 

From St. Cloud we drove to the Sevres porcelain 
manufactory. The articles exhibited are exquisitely 
finished ; one piece in particular is said to be the 
finest work of this kind ever executed. It is a round 
table, about a yard in diameter, in the center of which 
is a head of Alexander, copied from the famous head 
in the Louvre ; around are twelve heads of celebrated 
characters of antiquity, and beneath these a principal 
circumstance of the life of each is represented. The 
designs are extremely good and the execution admir- 
able. Bonaparte's actions afford the subject of many 
of the designs to be seen here. The manufactory be- 
longs to the King ; small articles are sold without 
ceremony to strangers ; but to purchase anything of 
value, the royal permission must be asked, and this 
His Majesty is always graciously pleased to grant. 
He is undoubtedly the dearest china-man in Europe ; 
the prices demanded, at least, are extravagant, but 
this may be with the design of raising the value of the 
exhibition in the eyes of visitors, who are not expected 
to purchase. Strangers are not permitted to see the 
process of manufacture without a special order, which 
is not easily obtained. 

The palace at Versailles was greatly injured at the 
time of the Revolution, and has lain ever since in 
total disrepair. There are now two thousand work- 
men employed upon it, and it is expected to be finished 



1 8i 4 ] PARIS 35 

in the course of a year. It is a magnificent pile of 
building, as seen from the gardens. These gardens, 
on which so much criticism and praise have been 
bestowed, are, to be sure, very fine in their way. They 
consist of straight walks, of all sizes and all lengths, 
well gravelled and bordered by lofty trees, mostly 
poplars and elms, of admirable growth and beautifully 
trimmed. These are guarded by rows of sentinel 
statues disposed in front of them, and the whole is 
pleasingly diversified by jets cTcau. But the ne plus 
ultra of French genius, the highest flight of the great 
Louis XIV, is a vast grotto in the center of a grove, 
which is formed of natural rock, and in which Apollo 
and (I am afraid) the Muses are crowded together, 
amidst waters dashing from above and forming a lake 
beneath the grotto. Apollo is represented by the 
great Louis himself, while the no less worthy repre- 
sentatives of the Muses are the sovereign's mistresses. 
Unfortunately, when Nature was producing this most 
surprising of grottos, she forgot to conceal, as in her 
other works, the mortar with which she is in the habit 
of joining her rocks, and this carelessness produces a 
provoking effect which not even the natural air of 
the bronze deities can remove. The great orangery 
is the most admired object in this wilderness of beauties. 
There are above 300 orange trees of great size, dis- 
posed in right lines over a large gravelled space, a 
sight most gratifying to French eyes. Our guide 
assured us that " Sa Majeste, Louis dix-huit, a trouve 



36 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

rorangcric fort bonne" I will not condemn foreign 
taste, nor assert that ours is more correct, but I can 
with truth declare that my eyes and my mind were 
alike wearied with the sight of all this outraging of 
nature. 

By the time we had traversed the gardens, our minds 
were in the best tone to receive the most favourable 
impression from the beauties of Le Petit Trianon, 
the favourite residence of the unfortunate Marie 
Antoinette. In such a situation, close to the splendid 
gardens of Versailles, in France and far from his own 
home, an Englishman could not fail to have the 
liveliest sensations caused by the sight of an English 
villa in all its tranquillity and unartificial beauty ; 
but this delightful spot has a stronger claim upon his 
heart, for the making of this English garden was one 
of the formal charges exhibited against its ill-fated 
mistress. I am anxious to bury in oblivion the excesses 
of revolutionary frenzy, but it is difficult to stand on 
this spot and not exclaim with Nelson " God forgive 
me ! but I cannot love a Frenchman." 

When I pass over the spot on which stood the 
scaffold erected for the destruction of an unhappy 
and interesting female, sacrificed to the barbarous 
vengeance of an infuriated mob, when I think of the 
inhuman insults that pursued this and the other royal 
victims to their latest moments, when I stand upon 
the stairs which beheld the massacre of the devoted 
Swiss Guards, and when I reflect that every stone 



fip 



3HES 1 




i8i4] PARIS 37 

I tread on has witnessed atrocities the most inhuman 
that ever disgraced a civilized nation, I do confess 
that I can hardly believe it to be my duty to treat 
Frenchmen as my brethren ; and I look back with 
exultation to the revolution that condemned our 
misguided sovereign to the scaffold. Compared to a 
French revolution, it may be held up as an eternal 
monument to the honour of our national character. 

We dined at Versailles, and returned to Paris about 
ten o'clock. 

The Solicitor-General * told us an anecdote of an 
occurrence which happened to him a few days ago, 
in which the politeness of one of the French Marshals 
(he thinks, MacDonald) appeared to great advantage. 
He was at a hunt where the Royal Dukes and other 
distinguished characters were present. His horse 

* Charles Kendal Bushe (1767- 1843) was called to the Irish 
Bar in 1790, and in 1797 was M.P. for the borough of Callan in 
Grattan's Parliament. His denunciation of the proposed Union, 
in the debates of 1800, was said to have been unsurpassed in elo- 
quence. His name in the Red List was noted " Incorruptible." 
He accepted the post of Solicitor-General in 1803, and in 1822 was 
appointed Chief Justice of the Court of King's Bench in Ireland. 
Referring to evidence given by Bushe before a parliamentary com- 
mittee, Brougham said : " No one who heard the very remarkable 
examination of Chief Justice Bushe could avoid forming the most 
exalted estimate of his judicial talents. There was shed over the 
whole the grace of a delivery singular for its combined suavity and 
dignity. All that one has heard of the wonderful fascination of his 
manner, both at the bar and upon the bench, became easily credible 
to those who heard his evidence." Bushe was married in 1793 to 
Anna Crampton, and his daughter Charlotte, Lady Plunket, was 
the mother of Lord Rathmore. 



38 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

became unmanageable and passed the Marshal, 
rubbing against him and continuing to gallop in his 
way. The Solicitor took off his hat and apologized 
for his apparent want of the respect due to the Mar- 
shal's rank, but his horse was ungovernable, and he 
could not rein him in. The Marshal's answer was : 
" Sir, there is no precedence in hunting ; and if there 
were, it is due to you as an Englishman." 

6th. — Waited upon the optician, Mons. Chamblant, 
according to appointment, to examine his glasses. 
He showed us a number of experiments in confirmation 
of the value of this invention which, if it really does 
effect all that it proposes, is one of the most important 
since the discoveries of Newton. The whole matter 
is the placing of two lenses (segments of cylinders) with 
their axes transverse ; and this is said to correct the 
errors of sphericity. Chamblant does not lay claim 
to the invention of the principle. His account of it is 
that one, Sieur Gallard, conjectured on theory that 
such lenses would have such an effect ; but that in 
the course of seven years he had found it impossible 
to procure glasses of the kind he wanted, ground per- 
fectly cylindrical. When he was ready to despair, 
he accidentally found Chamblant, a common glass- 
cutter but a good workman and an ingenious man, 
who after infinite pains and loss of time succeeded in 
accomplishing the object proposed. Chamblant has 
now become an optician, and supports himself by 
selling these glasses for spectacles, and they are much 



1 8 1 4 ] PARIS 39 

used. Gallard, however, perceiving that this trade is 
likely to turn out profitable, has attacked him at law, 
and a suit is now depending. Chamblant seems to us 
an ingenious, clear-headed man, but very enthusiastick. 
He complains that he is not countenanced by any of 
the sgavans, but that his invention lies unexamined and 
disregarded, and even obstacles are thrown (by other 
opticians) in the way of his procuring glass fit for his 
trade. He is considered, he says, " un bete noir," 
and his reason for this is that no one but a member 
of the Institute has any right to invent. 

We saw the King going from the Thuilleries to take 
an airing. A second carriage (but empty) followed 
that in which he was ; both, w T ith eight horses, 
guards, etc. 

In the evening to the Theatre Francais. The play 
was Corneille's tragedy of Le Menteur, extremely well 
performed ; the farce, The Three Sultanesses, lively 
and entertaining. The orchestra at this theatre has 
one striking peculiarity. All the performers are 
veterans ; there is not a man among them that cannot 
boast his white locks. Whether this arises from 
accident or is the effect of design, I cannot say ; but 
the orchestra is quite in character with the sombre 
appearance of the house, and harmonises delightfully 
with the solemnity of French tragedy. Ladies and 
gentlemen always go to the theatres here in morning 
dress, which is certainly convenient, but produces a 
triste effect. 



40 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

ytli. — There was a grand review this morning in the 
Champs de Mars, but rain combined with other 
difficulties to prevent our going. After breakfast we 
went to the Louvre. When we had been about half 
an hour here we perceived that the streets were lined, 
and that the troops were to return along the quay 
under the windows of the gallery. Two French gentle- 
men, who were standing at one of the windows, made 
room for us in a very polite manner. I entered into 
conversation with them, and they not only were very 
useful in explaining the different dresses and kind of 
troops as they passed, but were very communicative 
on other matters. They had both served (and are still) 
in the army, and both had been at the battle of Leipzig. 
They fairly owned to complete rout on that occasion 
and to the loss of " beaucoup de tnonde" but protested 
that for two days they were everywhere successful, 
and would have been finally so but for the defection 
of the Bavarians. They freely expressed their admira- 
tion of Bonaparte's genius, and considered his conduct 
in the last campaign most masterly, but that he had 
been ill-supported or betrayed. However, they did 
not seem to like him, and said that they were glad of 
his deposition since he could not be quiet. The people, 
in their opinion, never loved him, and the Marshals 
would be glad to secure their possessions by peace ; 
but the soldiery adored him ; and they related many 
instances of his mode of winning their hearts. It was 
manifest from part of the conversation of these gentle- 



1814] PARIS 41 

men that want of courage has been imputed to Bona- 
parte, even in France ; and that his flight from Russia 
and the battle of Leipzig have been much discussed. 
They repeated over and over again, at the end of 
each anecdote of his heroism, " No, no ! Bonaparte 
is no coward. He has many faults, but he is no 
coward." They insisted that neither in Russia nor 
at Leipzig had he left the army while a chance re- 
mained of being useful to it, nor until he was im- 
periously called to Paris by the state of affairs in 
France. One of them told me that, after the defeat 
of Leipzig, he had stood near the Emperor, who, in 
the midst of the hottest fire, while the officers of his 
staff and others who had rallied round him were falling 
on every side, continued giving orders with the most 
perfect calmness of countenance and manner, till his 
own retreat was nearly cut off by the advance of the 
enemy. 

The French heavy dragoons are almost precisely 
like the English, except the colour of their coats and 
the helmet, which although shaped the same is all of 
brass. The cuirassiers differ from them only by a steel 
coat of mail, which covers the whole body and is formed 
of two pieces only, joined down the sides. One of the 
officers assured me that this will stop a musket-ball, 
if not struck quite at right angles to the surface. Out 
of the number of cuirassiers wounded, a vast pro- 
portion are hit in the arm, for the balls easily glance 
aside off the polished steel. The cuirassiers are a 



42 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

fine body of men and highly valued by the French 
army. The hussars are like our own, but those I saw 
not so handsome. The horses of both the heavy and 
light cavalry have long tails. They are smaller and 
inferior in appearance to ours, but their riders seem 
to manage them with perfect skill, and on the whole 
they are fine-looking troops. When I praised their 
appearance my two French friends broke out into 
the warmest eulogies of the Imperial Guard, the 
cavalry of which, they assured me, was the finest 
body of men in the world for dress, equipment, horses 
and every excellence. The foot regiments are no 
doubt admirable soldiers, but they struck me to-day 
as being poor-looking, and with all the unfinished air 
of our yeomen. In marching, they paid no attention 
to keeping an even line, but were usually in the ut- 
most disorder, from which however they recover and 
form a good line with peculiar celerity. The voltigeurs 
are formed of the smallest men in the army ; they are 
distinguished by a yellow feather, the others having 
red. The National Guard, both horse and foot, wear 
long coats and cocked hats. This body has been called 
out since the late changes. They support all their 
own expenses, receive no pay and are not obliged to 
serve. The cuirassiers and, generally, the other 
cavalry are dressed in dark green. The regiments of 
the line wear very light blue with red facings. To- 
day we saw Kemble in the Louvre. He seemed most 
pleased with the statues, some of which he examined 



1814] PARIS 43 

with minute attention, but the paintings he passed 
over very slightly. 

8th. — Walking on the boulevards this morning, we 
saw the Duke of Berri * pass by, with at least a dozen 
generals and other officers, and a guard of the cui- 
rassiers. He rode very fast, which it seems is one way 
of gaining the hearts of the Parisians, for Bona- 
parte always rode in a gallop. The Duke of Berri is 
the only one of the family that endeavours to please 
the French by constantly appearing among them 
mounted and accompanied by his officers, by review- 
ing the troops and assuming a military air, yet they 
say he has not been able to make himself popular 
with either army or people. 

In the evening to the Theatre Francais, to Cor- 
neille's Cinna. I was much better pleased than I had 
been with Tancrede, but I am still at open war with 
French tragedy. Before the play commenced, the 
band was playing an overture, when the audience 
called loudly for " Henri quatre" the French " God 
save the King," which was performed amidst the loudest 
and most general applause. Kemble was in a box 
close to the stage, paying great attention to the per- 

* Charles Ferdinand d'Artois, due de Berry, the second son of 
" Monsieur." In early life he married an English lady, but after 
two children had been born he deserted her, pleading the command 
of the King, and the marriage was afterwards annulled. In 1816 
he married Princess Caroline of Naples, half-sister of the Queen of 
Spain. His manners are said to have been brusque to the verge 
of brutality. He was assassinated on the 23rd of February, 1820, 
on leaving the opera-house in Paris. 



44 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

formance, with which he seemed much pleased. It 
is one of the laws of the French drama that the scene 
cannot change ; in consequence of this, in the repre- 
sentation of a French tragedy the curtain is never 
dropped between the acts, nor is any musick allowed 
then, as this would destroy the reality of the scene 
and disturb the minds of the spectators. The only 
separation of the acts is by the performers all leaving 
the stage for about a minute. 

gth. — We paid a visit this morning to M. Chamblant. 
He talked a vast deal on various subjects, particularly 
the state of the two countries. His admiration of 
England is excessive, but he never forgets that he 
himself is a Frenchman. He had served, like all other 
Frenchmen of all ranks, at different periods from the 
year 1793 down to the late entrance of the allies into 
Paris. Latterly he had served "nialgre lui" and he 
complained bitterly of being forced away from his 
trade and his family ; " mats cependant, Monsieur," 
continued he, " je me battois en brave honinie, parceque 
fetois Frangais" He assured us that notwithstand- 
ing the public accounts of victories and success in 
Spain, the real state of things was always well known 
at Paris. Frenchmen, sir, says he, are not fools, and 
we had maps that showed us how our army was 
falling back upon each victory ; besides, there were 
soldiers continually returning from Spain who told 
the truth. Our successes in Spain he attributed 
entirely to the talents of Wellington, whom he asserted 



1814] PARIS 45 

to be the greatest general in the world ; but he would 
not bear any insinuation of the superiority of the 
British over the French soldier. Speaking of the 
fickleness of the French disposition, he told us that 
when the allies were fighting before the town, the 
women were running between the different posts to 
encourage their defenders, but the moment the affair 
was decided the white cockade was universally hoisted, 
and they became equally enthusiastick in favour of 
the new order of things. We took our leave of 
If. Chamblant with every wish for his success, and 
promised him to use all our efforts to make his dis- 
covery known upon our return to England. 

To-day we concluded our arrangements for leaving 
Paris, and procured passports, etc. No man can take 
a sudden resolution and quit Paris at a moment's 
warning. A permit from the proper office is requisite, 
without which the postmaster cannot give horses, and 
this can be procured in office hours only and with 
some little delay. The intention of the Government 
is, I suppose, to correct the hasty, volatile disposition 
of Frenchmen, and this check is much the same as 
counting twenty before uttering an oath ; but though 
I cannot help acknowledging this advantage, yet I 
have some portion of that English perverseness of 
temper which makes me love the power of acting 
hastily and wrong if it pleases me. 

We have hired a cabriolet from this to Lyons for 
which we pay three napoleons ; they asked ten to 



46 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

Geneva. The price in this case is very much regulated 
by the chance of having the carriage soon returned 
by some traveller from the town to which it is sent. 
Sometimes the probability is that it may not be delayed 
above a few days, and sometimes there is every likeli- 
hood of its remaining weeks or perhaps months. To 
many towns it is impossible to procure a carriage which 
you will not undertake to bring or send back. 

As we had little purchases to make before our final 
departure from Paris, we had some opportunity of 
seeing the mode of dealing in the shops. No shop- 
keeper ever thinks of asking a fair price from any one 
that he thinks ignorant of the real value of things ; 
and if the purchaser proves more knowing than he 
was supposed to be, it becomes even then a trial of 
skill whether he shall not finally be cheated ; the un- 
knowing may reckon on it as a certainty. Some of the 
bargaining that we heard afforded us great amusement. 
The cheater talks loudly without fearing to be heard, 
and no one thinks of assisting the cheated, who indeed 
never seems to expect help. 

In the evening I walked till a late hour on the 
boulevards, and was much entertained by a strolling 
band playing before one of the cafes. It was one of 
the best bands of this kind I have heard. The in- 
struments were three violins, violoncello and harp ; 
the first violin by a pretty young woman who played 
with uncommonly neat execution, a clear though weak 
tone, and good style. There was also a woman who 



i8i 4 ] PARIS 47 

sang, but in the most French style — all roaring in the 
throat. 

10th. — Passed three hours in the Louvre and took a 
sorrowful leave of the only object that we regret in 
leaving Paris. We have not been able to see (much 
less to become acquainted with) the half of what is 
contained in this wonderful museum. To the very 
last moment we were discovering beautiful paintings 
that had not before met our eyes ; for my own part, 
there are about a dozen on which I think I could gaze 
unsatiated for half my life. We have, however, the 
consolation of having devoted to the Louvre every 
moment in our power, and of having fully appreciated 
the value of its treasures, while they were within 
our reach. 

I am now leaving Paris, and shall throw together 
here the few remarks that have occurred to my ob- 
servation upon a city which has been so differently 
described by different writers. 

The streets are, for the most part, narrower than 
any of our lanes. There are no flag- ways, and carri- 
ages have the use of the whole pavement to the very 
walls of the houses, and even so there is barely room 
for two carriages to pass with ease. There are no 
squares like those in London, and what the French 
call "place " is an open paved place, square or round, 
hardly broader than one of our streets, and even these 
are not numerous. I speak now of the old part of 
the town, for in the more modern there are some sum- 



48 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

ciently wide streets, and a few handsome places or 
squares ; these, however, form but a small part of the 
whole. The river and the quays and bridges are very 
fine. The public buildings are numerous and hand- 
some ; but there is none which can be compared to 
St. Paul's. Take away the boulevards, Place de la 
Concorde, Place Vendome, and the adjoining streets, 
and Paris is, as a town, one of the ugliest that I can 
imagine ; heavy, dark, dirty, and inconvenient. 

There are everywhere marks of Bonaparte's im- 
provements, but there is much of which he most un- 
justly bears the reputation. He had a novel method 
of erecting palaces and other edifices. When he ap- 
proved of a building, he immediately ordered it to be 
scraped from top to bottom, and a profusion of bees, 
eagles, and capital " N's " to be inserted between the 
parts of the old work. By the time these orders were 
carried into execution, the building looked quite new 
and, the work corresponding with that on the buildings 
really erected by him, strangers were effectually 
deceived ; and even the good people of Paris them- 
selves, daily viewing the progress of workmen, were 
at last thoroughly convinced that they were indebted 
for the whole to their Great Emperor. It is wonder- 
ful how far this mistake prevails ; I myself met a 
gentleman at the Pantheon (which had just undergone 
this process and, to own the truth, does look new 
enough) who would not believe me that it was not 
built by Napoleon, 



1 8i4) PARIS 49 

The theatres are heavy, dark, and ugly. They are 
built after the model of the Grecian theatre ; but there 
is a vast difference between daylight and an audience 
disposed in equal rows on the gradually rising benches 
of the ancient, and candle-light, and the close, dark 
boxes of the modern theatre. The style of architecture 
perfectly suited to the one is ridiculous in the other. 
The shops are, in general, small and dark, without 
much appearance of any great value contained in 
them. There are, however, some very handsome ; 
particularly, perfumers and sword-cutlers and makers 
of fire-arms — the best trades, I suppose, in this 
country. 

Handsome or even decent equipages are very rare ; 
I have seen but three or four well appointed in every 
respect. There are few liveries of any kind, and those 
few most miserable. I must observe that people have 
not yet had time to set up their establishments, and 
a short time may probably produce a great change 
in this respect ; we see a number of splendid carriages 
preparing at the different coach-makers'. The hand- 
some carriages here are in a taste wholly different from 
the English ; they are highly ornamented and covered 
with gilding. The want of flag-ways for foot pas- 
sengers is a terrible annoyance. A little rain makes 
the street almost impracticable on foot, and in the 
finest weather the utmost circumspection, and often- 
times the utmost agility, is requisite to save one's 
life from the furious drivers that infest the streets. 



50 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

They have no compassion for those on foot, but dash 
along shouting, " garrc ! garre I " always close to the 
houses. Indeed, the fiietons seem to consider them- 
selves unpardonable if they unavoidably endanger 
their own lives and force a carriage to stop but for 
a moment. We once saw an officer caught where 
there was no possibility of his retreating, and the 
coachman (who might have driven more carefully) 
pulled up for an instant to let him escape. Now, in 
such a situation I should have been a little provoked 
with the driver ; but this officer, with the greatest 
humility, pulled off his hat, and made several low 
bows to the gentleman in the carriage as if to entreat 
pardon for having inconvenienced him. My way is 
to take instant flight on the first alarm, and to save 
myself in the nearest shop or gateway. 

The manner of living differs considerably from that 
in England. After dejeuner d la fourchette, about 
eleven, comes diner, about half-past five or six o'clock ; 
this lasts about two hours and concludes the regular 
meals of the day ; there is no sitting after dinner to 
drink wine. There are usually two full courses, not 
laid all at once upon the table, but two or three dishes 
at a time, and then dessert. The moment eating 
ceases, drinking also is at an end. The traiteurs in 
Paris are innumerable ; their apartments are fitted 
up most splendidly, and the living luxurious beyond 
all description. At these houses by far the greater 
part of the gentry of Paris dine every day, instead of 



i8i 4 ] PARIS 51 

at their own houses. Ladies as well as gentlemen 
resort to them, and it is not uncommon to see a lady 
enter the traitenr's alone, and order her dinner. The 
bill-of-fare presented at such places never fails to 
astonish an Englishman ; one would suppose that the 
moderate life of man would hardly suffice to read it 
through. It is said that this list sometimes contains 
three or four hundred different dishes, and it will give 
some idea of the resource of a French cook, that a 
waiter assured me the list was real and that every 
dish mentioned in it could be procured at a few minutes' 
warning. We do not find that living is as cheap as 
it was represented to us. What may be called the 
best style of dinner costs twelve or fourteen francs, 
including wine, and without endeavouring to be ex- 
pensive. Such a dinner you certainly could not have 
in London for three times the sum, and, to the man 
who must live luxuriously, Paris is undoubtedly the 
cheapest place ; but the ordinary style of living is 
more luxurious than in London, and will not be found 
to be extremely cheap. Everything is served up in 
bits and scraps, and it would take the whole of three 
or four dishes to satisfy one's hunger. It is the custom 
to eat a little of each dish, and to have a great number. 
The first bit of solid, plain meat I saw here, my sur- 
prise at so welcome a sight was almost too great to 
permit me to enjoy it. I had become fully satisfied 
that the bullocks and sheep of this land died in bouillis 
and fricandeaux. 



52 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [1814 

Musick is, for what reason I cannot conceive, re- 
markably dear. A single sheet costs fr. 1 10s. 

We have experienced another instance of the sys- 
tematick cheating carried on here. Our lodging- 
account is brought in ten louis — 240 francs, instead of 
200 at 20 francs each louis. Our landlord assures me 
that the old louis was 24 francs, and that no one counts 
by the new one ; but that when we mean a new louis, 
we must say a napoleon. I swear that when we were 
bargaining I did say " napoleon" and that at all events 
no one now counts by the old louis. Thus the affair 
rests for the present. I shall not pay without a des- 
perate resistance ; he is certainly a rogue, and I shall 
at least have the comfort of telling him so, if he can 
but understand the harangue I intend to deliver in 
the morning. 

nth.— We were, after a hard contest, defeated by 
our landlord and obliged to pay 24 livres to the louis. 
Besides our experience, we obtained for our additional 
40 livres a caution never on any occasion to say louis ; 
that even napoleon might prove dangerous ; but that 
piece de vingt francs was an expression sure to carry 
us in safety through the most tempestuous bargaining. 
So we grow wise in time. 



CHAPTER III 
FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 

Paris to Fontainbleau. 

LEFT Paris at nine o'clock. When we were 
at Chantilly, going up to Paris, the driver 
j informed us that on good roads it was cus- 
tomary only to take two horses, although 
we must pay for three. We willingly assented, and 
ever since have gone on in the same way. To-day, 
after the third post, our driver let us know that we 
had been imposed upon, and that when the post- 
master wished to give us but two horses, we were to 
pay a regulated price, more than for two but less than 
for three. I asked him what I was to do ; his answer 
was, " Why, you must pay me the full price for three, 
because you made no objection setting off ; but take 
care in future ! " There was no replying to what was 
so reasonable. We arranged at the next post without 
further difficulty than the mere mention of the thing. 
It is a little surprising that so gross an imposition 
should have been practised and permitted by so many 
postilions and postmasters as we had passed, under 
an establishment so well regulated as the posting 

53 



54 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

department in France, one in which the slightest in- 
fraction of the laws is punished with great severity. 

We arrived at Fontainbleau about three o'clock, 
and immediately set out to visit the palace, the last 
residence of Bonaparte as Emperor of France, and 
the scene of his abdication of the throne. There is a 
good deal in itself well worth seeing, but every interest 
was, with us, absorbed in that excited by the late 
events which have taken place here. The desk at 
which Bonaparte signed his abdication is exhibited, 
just as it was at the time, and also the chair in which 
he sat and the room in which the commissioners waited 
while he was writing. We did not omit to sit in the 
chair, as is usual with all celebrated pieces of furniture 
of that kind ; it is an extremely comfortable arm- 
chair, somewhat more agreeable than our venerable 
coronation-chair in Westminster Abbey. The library 
is handsome, and apparently sensible and intended 
for use. Our guide informed us that Bonaparte took 
with him the works of Voltaire, and those only ; 
he took, however, his charts and maps also. There is 
a gallery of busts among which are generals and aides- 
de-camp I had never before heard of, while some of 
the most remarkable are entirely omitted. The bust 
of Dessaix occupies the most conspicuous place here, 
as his picture does at St. Cloud. There is one of 
Marlborough, whose name is wrong spelled — I think, 
" Malbrook." 

The King of Spain resided here for some time. 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 55 

The Pope, too, had apartments here assigned to him 
as his prison for nineteen months. There are many 
curious things in this palace, which was a favourite 
residence of the ex-Emperor. In one room there are 
models of ships of various kinds and sizes, and our 
guide told us that Bonaparte was particularly fond 
of looking at these and examining their construction. 
Two French gentlemen arrived at the same time with 
us, and we went through the palace together. One 
of them, an officer, was a strong Bonapartist, and it 
was curious to note the opportunities he seized of prais- 
ing him. He exhausted the whole round of commen- 
datory terms in expressing his admiration of all the 
new furniture — beds, looking-glasses, tables, and deco- 
rations of every kind. One of the rooms had been 
beautifully fitted up in the time of the Bourbons, and 
the ceiling, of exquisite workmanship, was profusely 
spread with lilies. This ceiling, too handsome to be 
destroyed, was suffered to stand in its original state, 
and the officer instantly pronounced it an instance of 
the greatest magnanimity in Napoleon. He said, I 
am sure a dozen times : " How great ! how noble ! 
he would not let the lilies be touched. Ah ! he was a 
great man." These, by the by, are the only lilies in 
the whole palace that have not been defaced. Our 
guide informed us that during the nineteen months of 
the Pope's residence here, he had refused to stir out, 
even to the gardens, although Bonaparte had ordered 
carriage and horses to be always in readiness to attend 



56 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

him, for he wished the people to see the Pope driving 
about, and so to believe that he resided at Fontain- 
bleau by his own desire. Our lily friend's remark upon 
this was, " Ah / il etoit pique." The unreasonable old 
man ! A sovereign, assaulted at midnight in his 
palace, torn from his capital, hurried in the midst of 
sickness to a distant country, insulted and abused 
upon the way, and confined for two years a State 
prisoner ; and, for no more than this, he is unnatural 
enough to be pique / What would he have been, had 
the Emperor been graciously pleased to command 
his head to be taken off ? 

(Note of 1821. — Pius the sixth, the predecessor of 
the present Pope, was, in the same way, dragged from 
Rome by order of Bonaparte. He died in consequence 
of his ill-treatment. Of this transaction Mr. Pitt thus 
expressed himself in the House of Commons in 1800: 
" A transaction accompanied by outrages and insults 
towards the pious and venerable Pontiff, in spite of the 
sanctity of his age and the unsullied purity of his character, 
which even to a Protestant seem hardly short of the guilt 
of sacrilege.) 

The road from Paris to this is extremely fine, broad, 
well paved, and lined with rows of noble trees. The 
last four miles are through the great forest of Fontain- 
bleau, which covers more than 30,000 acres. I had 
not time to visit my Chantilly acquaintance, M. le 
Vicomte de Boubers. 

We at length see that it is utterly impossible to 



1 3 1 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 57 

go on in this country without making a bargain every 
night. We are charged here twenty francs for dinner, 
and beds are an additional ten. The whole ought to 
be eighteen or twenty. Complaints are unavailing, 
and we were obliged to pay the demand without any 
satisfaction beyond venting our anger and giving the 
maid only one franc for being an accomplice in the 
cheating. 

Saw the Tolers here. They are going on our way to 
Lyons. 

Were delayed, and could not get off before eight 
o'clock. 

Fontainblcau to Briarc. — 12th. — We breakfasted at 
Nemours and were charged nine francs for breakfast 
of coffee. We complained to no purpose. The man 
insisted that it was very cheap, and that if others had 
asked, as we asserted, but six, it must have been for 
coffee alone without bread, butter, or milk. There is 
no help against such rascalities, and we were, as usual, 
obliged to content ourselves with giving our host the 
opinion we entertained of his character. 

From Fontainbleau to Nemours the drive, mostly 
through the forest, is beautiful ; the rest of the way 
to this is seldom handsome. The road in general 
excellent, and at each side large trees — elm, walnut 
or poplar. Along the roadside the peasants were 
everywhere gathering the elm and walnut leaves into 
large bags. 

We were driven one post to-day by a man sur- 



58 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

passing in wildness the wildest Irishman that novel- 
writer ever placed on the bar of a tattered chaise. He 
had neither coat, cravat, nor stockings ; but wore a 
coarse shirt, red cloth waistcoat, dirty coarse duck- 
trousers half-way up his legs, and a cotton night-cap 
instead of a hat. This cotton night-cap is commonly 
worn by the peasantry ; and even in Paris our valet, 
who in the day dressed himself very smartly, used to 
attend us at breakfast with his night-cap on. In 
cases where those who wear hats would salute by 
taking them off, these people would lift up the tails 
of their caps. In the course of this day we had another 
postilion without hat or cap, and in his waistcoat. 

The day fine with a beautiful sky, but a cold wind 
such as we often have with a warm sun in May. 

Arrived at Briare about six o'clock. Inn reasonably 
good ; dinner quite sufficient. After dinner the fille had 
occasion to wash one of the drinking-glasses, to serve 
in the bedroom. She stood beside us, rinced the 
glass, and very composedly threw the water on the 
floor. We all sleep nearly in the same room ; a door 
opens into the foot of my bed, but the bed itself is 
separated from the other room by the curtain alone. 
Our first marche against imposition begins here and 
we have every reason to continue it, for we pay here 
seventeen francs for what last night cost us thirty ; 
all equally good. Every stranger is, I believe, cheated 
considerably (some more, some less) in his first travel- 
ling on the Continent. In Paris, Pleyel, speaking of 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 59 

this, told me that he had travelled twice into Italy 
and that the first time it cost him double what it did 
the second. Our successful mar die, with the civility 
of our host, made us leave this in good humour. 

Briare to St. Pierre le Moutier. — 13th. — Got off at 
seven ; breakfasted at Cosne. The town is, unfortu- 
nately for us, remarkable for a hardware manufactory. 
Before we were five minutes in the inn a woman came 
into the room and tortured us to buy a few knives ; 
then, a girl, who thought it very hard that even though 
we were in no want of scissors we would not purchase 
some " pour complaisance" Two more gave us their 
company during breakfast. While I was out of the 
room, a man made a violent assault on Charles and 
insisted on shaving him with the best razor in the 
world ; it was with difficulty he escaped, for the 
bason of lather was all prepared. 

It had seemed to us hardly worth while to insist 
on bargaining for so little a thing as a breakfast, so 
they charged us here ten francs. We are in a great 
rage and have vowed not to eat another morsel in 
France without first ascertaining the price. Since 
our arrangement respecting the third horse, the 
postilion has never failed to tell, as we are setting 
off, the price we pay ; which is exactly as if they were 
to say, "These people are aware of the regulated 
price ; you need not try to cheat them." 

To-day as we were driving along we observed a 
boy at some distance, walking towards us. He 



60 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

suddenly stopped, took off his cocked hat and laid 
it on the ground, knelt down, crossed himself most 
devoutly, kissed the ground and then started up and 
ran after the carriage, begging. I suppose this was 
an invocation to some saint for a prosperous beg. 
The saint, from whatever part of the calendar selected, 
was on this occasion either unpropitious or wanting 
in influence over our heretical feelings. 

In this country there seems to me to be an even 
greater waste (or, at least, employment) of animal 
labour than even in England. We saw to-day, in 
several places, eight oxen in one plough, in a light 
soil and on level ground. To one plough there were 
six asses yoked. 

A little boy not above twelve or thirteen years of 
age drove us one post to-day. He had the enormous 
French boots, a very long queue, and three-cocked 
hat. This urchin had a lazy horse, and when he had 
exerted his whip-arm for some time, to our astonish- 
ment he drew out a large clasp-knife and very coolly 
began to stab his horse in the neck. I roared at him, 
and he seemed quite unable to comprehend why I 
should interfere between him and his own horse ; 
he did not, however, repeat it. My anger cooled 
before I could find words sufficiently strong to ex- 
press the vast inclination I had to flog him. 

The whole of this day's journey through a very 
handsome country along the Loire ; an extensive 
view with beautiful woods, the fences nearly like 



i8i 4 ) FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 61 

those in our own hedge countries. The cultivation, 
corn and vine — chiefly the latter ; for about ten miles 
round La Charite the country, as far as the eye can 
see, is one continued vineyard. 

We reached St. Pierre le Moutier about eight o'clock. 
On our new bargaining plan, I stated our wants to 
the landlady and requested to know her demand. 
She at first endeavoured to avoid this by " Oh, soyez 
tranquille ! nous arrangerons c*a" but I insisted on 
knowing, and she then named the moderate sum of 
thirty francs, from which she quickly came down to 
twenty-five. I then produced the bill of last night, 
and declared I would give no more than eighteen. 
She ridiculed the idea of acceding to this, till we at 
length ordered the horses and declared that we were 
determined to go on ; upon which she desired the 
maid to fight us to our chamber. We have been as 
well served as if we had been at their discretion without 
any bargain. Beds as usual most excellent, with the 
cleanest sheets ; four filles de chambre, an article of 
which (contrary to what we heard) we have as yet 
seen no scarcity. Here, for the first time in France, 
I had no looking-glass in my bedchamber. Decency 
and even cleanliness are very much neglected in 
many things, but so far we have everywhere had 
breakfast and supper invariably served with the 
utmost neatness ; the china handsome ; silver forks 
and spoons. There are, to be sure, deficiencies 
of another kind amply to compensate for all this, 



62 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

but we have seen neither bugs nor vermin of any 
kind. 

St. Pierre le Moutier to Pallisse. — 142/z. — Breakfasted 
at Moulins. We found the landlady sitting on the 
steps of the entrance, surrounded by chickens which 
she was killing at a great rate, and plucking ; the live 
ones were tied together by the legs in threes or fours, 
and a little boy was tumbling them about over each 
other for his recreation. On one side of the good lady 
was her crock of blood and large knife ; on the other, 
a heap of feathers over which we were to stride in 
order to get into the house. We insisted on knowing 
the price of breakfast, which was named frs.6 ; 
and this we allowed as it was not very unconscionable. 
The landlady afterwards assured me that at the other 
inn in the town they would have charged us frs.18 
for the same breakfast ; she must mean, in case we 
made no bargain, in which event she w T ould most 
likely have done the same. 

Moulins is a considerable provincial town. It 
suffered greatly in the Revolution, of which it bears 
visible marks. The only thing worth seeing here 
is the tomb or monument of the Duke Montmorenci, 
beheaded under Louis XIII. It is esteemed perhaps 
the finest piece of French sculpture in existence. 
This fine work was near perishing in consequence 
of its being allied to royalty and standing upon 
sacred ground. When they were on the point of 
tearing it down, one man, with more reason than the 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 63 

rest, demanded " what they were about ? Mont- 
morenci was a republican, and murdered by a king." 
This lucky thought saved the great work of Couston. 

We have been greatly delighted with our journey 
to-day. We are out of the vine cultivation and the 
country is most beautiful. Extensive views, with 
hills sufficient to vary the landscape ; rich country 
and abundant planting. Towards evening we came 
in sight of some noble mountains, and our scenery 
has gradually changed to a less cultivated but higher 
style of beauty. The road throughout the day 
almost always unexceptionable ; well made and 
carefully repaired. The peasantry well dressed 
and clean ; their cabins with every appearance of 
comfort. Workmen in the fields dining on bread 
and wine. 

The post-house at Pallisse cold and unpromising in 
appearance ; but as we were inclined to stop, and 
the bedrooms were sufficiently good, I sent for the 
landlady and bargained as usual for supper and beds. 
The bargaining in this way, and telling them in fact 
that you know they wish to cheat you, never makes 
the innkeepers cross or uncivil. It is their custom ; 
and when the bargain is struck they think no more 
of it, nor do they attempt to treat you worse than if 
you were at their mercy for the price of your enter- 
tainment. Our rate of payment is certainly above 
the fair price such as a Frenchman would give, but 
perhaps not more than an Englishman may be well 



64 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

pleased to escape with. We had a good and (what is 
less common) a substantial dinner, part of which was 
a shoulder of mutton with potatoes. My bedroom 
was off a large hall which was a kind of publick re- 
sort for all idlers, like the coffee-rooms in our inns. 
A party of noisy soldiers took possession of it just as 
I was going to bed, but they were unable to disturb 
me or prevent my sleeping most soundly. 

I have observed that in this country no man is 
fond of exerting his strength on any occasion, par- 
ticularly when he is not to be paid for it. I, last night, 
asked an hostler to take the imperial off our carriage, 
and if I had asked him to bring the carriage itself 
into our room he could not have made more work 
about it. As to doing it alone, he considered that 
quite ridiculous, and declared at once that it was 
" beaucoup pesant" and he must have " plusieurs " 
to assist him. It was not till I protested I would do it 
by myself that he was prevailed upon to attempt it, 
and even then he left more than half the work to 
me. When a traveller arrives at a country inn here, 
he receives none of the assistance in getting in his 
luggage that is usual in England. The sole province 
of the hostler is the stable ; the postilion, having placed 
you opposite to the door or in a convenient part of 
the yard, has done his duty, and the fille de chambre's 
attentions are entirely confined to the inside of the 
house. You are therefore left to pack and unpack, 
and carry up-stairs and down-stairs, without any 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 65 

interruption from officious civility obtruding its 
assistance upon you. 

Pallisse to St. Simphoricn. — 15th. — Left this at half- 
past seven. At setting off, there was a vigorous attack 
made upon the subject of a third horse, but our know- 
ledge of this department of the livre de poste was so 
accurate from repeated calls upon it, as to insure us 
an easy victory. At Droitmier, my attention was 
attracted by two large printed papers, pasted to the 
doors of the stable of the post-house, with " Ordre 
dc jour " in large characters over the top. I found 
these to be an order from " Le Gouverneur de Paris " 
General Baron Lacken, commanding that the posting 
establishments throughout France should, for the 
general convenience, be respected ; and at the same 
time regulating the posting rates. There were three 
columns — French, German, and Russian. Indepen- 
dent of the necessity of such an order, it possessed this 
value, that the French were thus made most sensibly 
to feel, in every part of the Empire, the humiliation 
of having the law dictated to them by a Prussian 
governor of their capital. It surprises me that these 
papers have been allowed to remain here perfectly 
clean and untorn. They are, however, the first I 
have seen anywhere ; in other places they must have 
been purposely removed. 

(On my return, in spring, I found several of these 
orders still remaining posted on the walls.) 

Breakfasted at Droitmier, a small poor village. 



66 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

We agreed for breakfast at frs. 5, with some dis- 
pleasure on the part of our landlady, who expected, 
no doubt, to have made a good morning's work of us. 
She quickly recovered her good-humour and brought 
me to see her presses, with breakfast and dinner 
equipage, etc., that all was Men ftropre. She told me 
that Napoleon had eaten and slept more than once 
in her house, travelling to and from Italy. She talked 
a good deal of him, and said that the people about this 
often speak of him and say that he is coming back 
again. In this part of the country it seems like an 
affront to call him anything but " PEnipereur" 

The inn here is a poor little place, but we had clean 
cloth and napkins and handsome china. They gave us 
white sugar, and had tea ; we, however, carry our 
own. In paying for breakfast, Charles gave a louis 
to be changed and the lady kept six instead of five 
francs, refusing to take less. I was out with the car- 
riage at the time, but was called, and after some 
scolding we with difficulty forced her to refund by 
threatening to bring her before a magistrate. Twice in 
the course of the day, an attempt made to cheat us 
about the third horse. They have absolutely not a 
spark of honor on these points. With them, all 
cheating is fair ; yet they will not steal, and we leave 
all our things about the room, or even in the carriage 
at night, with the most perfect security. If the 
traveller is often annoyed by the system of imposition 
so universally practised, he has by it one advantage 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 67 

of considerable importance. In every town through 
which he passes, while the horses are changing he is 
sure of having his carriage examined in every part 
by one or two blacksmiths, who hope to take an English- 
man in for a job. This examination they make with 
an attention greater than they would use if they were 
to be paid for that alone, and the slightest derange- 
ment in any part is certain of being detected. In our 
carriage there is an unfortunate nut, of no importance, 
which was loose leaving Paris ; at every town on our 
route this has been pointed out to me and permission 
asked to arranger it. 

All the peasantry we have seen for the last two 
days wear wooden shoes. The postilions, instead of 
the large boots, wear a kind of gaiter of very strong 
leather, shaped precisely like armour and fastened 
on in the same way. In walking up a hill they are 
obliged to take the gaiters off. For the three last 
days there has been a scorching sun with lovely clear 
sky. Out of the sun, the heat is not very great ; 
and to-day a woman, to whom I remarked how in- 
tolerable I found the sun, said, " Out, monsieur, mats 
depuis quelques jours il fait toujour s un fteu froid" 
The mornings and evenings indeed are cold, but I hope 
the days will not think of making any hotter while 
I remain here. 

The whole of to-day's drive is handsome ; the last 
twelve miles through a delightful country, very like 
the cultivated parts of the county Wicklow. Moun- 



68 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

tains low but handsomely shaped, and continued 
woods and cultivation. The cottages neat and pic- 
turesque ; the people busily employed ; the women 
and young girls sitting at their doors in the open air, 
spinning and working in tambour. 

We had intended going on to Tarare, but the land- 
lord at St. Simphorien recommended his house so 
strongly that we examined his beds and agreed to 
stop. While supper was preparing we walked out, 
and by the setting sun indulged in a view that might 
be transported into the best part of the county Wick- 
low and still be admired. Supper sufficiently good, 
and neatly served ; everyone particularly civil ; beds 
excellent. 

St. Simphorien to Lyons. — 16th. — Got off at 7 
o'clock. Breakfasted at Tarare. This is the worst 
inn we have been in yet, and everything in it the worst 
arranged we have seen. The entrance from the street 
is into the kitchen, from a corner of which a flight of 
stairs like a ladder leads to a dirty, small bedroom 
in which we sat. The water for tea was brought up 
in a dirty tin coffee-pot without a lid or spout, and 
the milk in a vessel of the same kind ; the butter like 
bad cream-cheese. The ascent of the mountain of Tarare 
had given me an appetite that set dirt and bad tastes at 
defiance, and I eat most heartily. During the day, we 
were delayed for some time at a post-house, all the horses 
being out. The country was charming, and we walked 
about with books in our hands till horses arrived. 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 69 

We entered Lyons a little after 5 o'clock and drove 
to the Hotel de l'Europe, a great establishment where, 
after much difficulty, we made marche. 

Lyons. — The entrance into Lyons from this side is 
very striking. The town is not seen till you are 
actually in it and driving along the Saone. Lofty per- 
pendicular cliffs rise immediately behind the houses 
on one side, and on the opposite is a very fine quay, 
with the town stretching out beyond it. The river, 
quays and bridges, are extremely handsome ; the 
river covered with boats which are, in general, rowed 
by women. The appearance of the people here, and 
for the last day, is quite changed. Their features 
are less French, and the women infinitely handsomer 
than any I have seen. I have had a first view of the 
Alps, but at a tremendous distance ; they look like 
clouds on the horizon. 

We find the town filled with tapestry and decora- 
tions of all kinds, triumphal arches, orchestras and 
preparations, to receive Monsieur, who is expected here 
to-morrow. For about a mile out of the town the road 
is lined on each side with trees on each of which was 
painted a flcur-dc-lys, in honor of the Bourbons ; 
but almost every one of them was defaced by dirt or 
scraping. 

Our dinner here has been excellent. In the evening, 
while I was out walking, a police officer paid us a visit. 
He wanted merely to take a note of who we were, our 
names and ages, place of our birth, our country, last 



70 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

place of residence, object in travelling, and a few other 
particulars. This is, I presume, for the purpose of 
advertising us if we should happen to be lost, or of 
assisting us effectually if we should be in distress. 
Kind persons ! they know the difficulties that beset 
travellers in a strange land. 

lyth. — I walked about the town before breakfast. 
The streets are narrow, dirty and ugly; the houses 
extremely high. The publick buildings, however, are 
handsome, and the two great rivers give so much 
quay, and there are so many places or squares, that 
the town is on the whole the most beautiful we have 
visited. The environs of the town are delightful, and 
the views from the bridges on the Saone and Rhone 
(particularly the latter) are with the present weather 
and sky most exquisite. 

After breakfast we paid a visit to our banker, who 
was extremely polite and begged of us to call upon him 
for any information or assistance it might be in his 
power to give us. There is much value in these recom- 
mendations to bankers on one's route. If you want 
money unexpectedly, you have it on the spot ; or, 
if you are sufficiently supplied, the banker is a person 
who will readily give every information that may be 
needed, or assist in procuring lodgings, hiring car- 
riages, etc. 

We were all to-day occupied in looking at the troops 
passing by, and the preparations for Monsieur's arrival. 
While we were waiting for him I talked a good deal 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 71 

with a French officer who had served in most of Bona- 
parte's campaigns, and had latterly been with the 
Italian army. He spoke freely of Bonaparte's late 
conduct, and seemed to think that since the Russian 
campaign he had done all that was in his power, but 
that his great error was in attacking Russia in the 
wa\* he did. He talked of the Spanish War, and ac- 
knowledged that Wellington was a great general, but 
said little more of him. 

I walked out to meet Monsieur, and got to the 
bridge over which he was to pass just as the procession 
was coming up. It was a fine military show ; a 
large body of cavalry of different kinds attended him, 
and the streets through which he passed were lined 
with infantry. A great number of officers were im- 
mediately about him : Marshal Augereau * rode on 
his right hand. They all had their hats in their hands, 
and Monsieur bowed and kissed his hand to the people 
as he passed. I had expected from the good people 
of Lyons more loyalty of feeling than I was able to 

* General Augereau (1757-1815) was of humble origin ; but he 
early attracted Napoleon's notice and favour by his personal 
courage and devotion, which were conspicuously exhibited in the 
battle of Leipzig. Unfortunately, his judgment failed him in the 
political vicissitudes of these later days. He assisted in the restor- 
ation of Louis XVIII, and in this same year (18 14) was created 
due de Castiglione. Napoleon, on his escape from Elba, proclaimed 
his former General a traitor ; but Augereau, dazzled by the trium- 
phant march to Paris, hastened to offer his services, which were 
brusquely rejected. When the Hundred Days were over the 
General again approached King Louis, and was repulsed ; his 
career terminating soon afterwards in retirement and humiliation. 



72 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

discover in them ; around me, at least, there was the 
greatest coldness imaginable. None but the soldiers 
who lined the streets shouted, and they feebly enough ; 
while the remarks made upon Monsieur were not very 
kind or to the purpose, as, " Ah, voila Monsieur / 
qu'il est vieux ! " 

An awkward accident happened. At the far side 
of the bridge a triumphal arch was raised, and in 
imitation of a Roman compliment customary on such 
occasions, a crown of laurel was suspended from the 
center, to be let down upon Monsieur's head as he 
rode under it ; but unfortunately, when he was about 
thirty yards from the place, the crown fell to the ground. 
This unpropitious fall caused a good deal of remark, 
and I heard two men talking very seriously upon it. 
They agreed that it was " tant pis " ; and one of them 
concluded his reflections by " Ah, quelle sottise de 
laisser tomber la couronne / " I afterwards went to 
the principal church, to which Monsieur was to have 
proceeded. A battalion of the National Guards was 
marched up the aisle with drums beating, and was 
halted and regularly drilled close to the altar. After 
I had stood in the crowd till I was tired, Monsieur sent 
word that he had rather pray in private, and that we 
might disperse. The church is a handsome gothic 
building, but the outside ornamenting is almost en- 
tirely destroyed, and the inside greatly injured. 
This is the case of most of the churches which are 
standing here ; many are in ruins ; for this town 



1 8 1 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 73 

was made a signal object of vengeance during the 
Revolution. 

There are the usual preparations for an illumination 
through the town. Some of the mottos under trans- 
parencies are a little curious. One, over the door of 
a cafe, is "II a ete, il est, et il sera toujour s, pour le 
Roi et sa famille." Over the door where Monsieur 
resides is " Borbonius, vcl Bonus orbi." They con- 
tain the same letters, however otherwise they may be 
similar. 

(Note. — The House of Bourbon took its name from 
Archibold Borbonius, in the year 11 27, whose impress 
was a globe, and round it this anagram of the EarVs 
name : " Orbi bonus") 

The illuminations at night were good, and there 
was a grand display of fireworks on the bridge. 

iSth. — We have, every moment, occasion to re- 
mark in this country some offence against delicacy or 
decency. Amongst these, there is one of a very 
enormous kind now before us. The hotel in which 
we are, the first in Lyons and really a noble establish- 
ment, is a building of three sides of a square which is 
completed by a corridor communicating with the 
two ends, but raised one story only. This building 
surrounds a handsome courtyard, and the communi- 
cation between the bedrooms is by balconies running 
along the outside. From these, every dirt and wet 
from all the chambers, four, five, or six stories high, 
is emptied into the yard filled with carriages and 



74 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

persons passing and repassing, and this full in the 
view of those who are sitting in their rooms, perhaps 
at breakfast or dinner. Men are here, as at Paris, 
the filles de chambre. 

In walking before breakfast this morning, I met 
the first religious procession I have ever seen. There 
were, first, fifty women and girls dressed in white and 
carrying wax-tapers, lighted, in their hands ; these 
walked in two rows, one at each side of the street. 
In the middle of the street, between them, three 
banners were carried at some distance from each 
other. On the first, a figure of St. Catherine, and under 
it, " Sancta Catherina, or a pro nobis ! " On the second, 
" S. Nicholas Nolentin, priez pour nous I " Between 
the banners were carried little shrines enclosing relicks, 
crucifixions, transparent lanthorns on top of long 
poles, silver vessels, etc. Next to these, a company 
of priests, the principal one in the center magnifi- 
cently dressed. The procession was closed by about 
150 men and women forming a continuation of the 
lines made by the first women. As they moved 
slowly along, the men and women sung alternately 

the invocation to the different saints, " sancta , 

or a pro nobis / " Most persons who met this proces- 
sion took off their hats till it had passed ; but many 
did not, and I walked beside it with my hat on and 
no one seemed to mind me. 

At eleven o'clock we went to St. John's Church to 
hear (or rather see) mass performed before Monsieur, 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 75 

and new colours consecrated and given to a regiment 
quartered here. We found the aisle, up to the foot 
of the altar, lined with soldiery, partly regulars, 
partly national guard. When Monsieur's approach 
was announced the word was given to shoulder arms, 
and the drums beat and band played. A canopy of 
white silk covered with the fleur-de-lys, and with the 
Bourbon arms embroidered on the top, was carried 
to the great door, and he walked up the aisle under 
it. Marshal Augereau on his right in the full dress 
of a marshal, two generals on his left, and a crowd 
of officers and gentlemen behind. Opposite the 
great altar he stept from under the canopy and 
was conducted to a seat prepared for the occasion, 
with a blue silk canopy suspended over it. Service 
now began by some ceremonies among the priests, 
during which the band of the regiment, placed on 
steps behind the altar, played a pretty piece of military 
musick. The colours were then unfurled and carried 
to the altar, with more ceremonies ; after which the 
word was given to the soldiers to present arms, which 
they did with drums beating. After some more 
ceremonies, the leader of the band played " O Dolce 
concerto," with variations. The word was then given 
to present arms and kneel, while the colours were 
carried and presented to the regiment. The kneeling 
was not general ; many officers stood and merely put 
their hands to their caps, and some soldiers did the 
same. The band again performed some airs, and the 



76 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

ceremony concluded with administering the sacra- 
ment to Monsieur. 

As a show, this was all very fine ; but the confound- 
ing thus together sacred and profane things, or rather 
the changing a Divine service into a military ceremony, 
is to my feelings extremely disagreeable. 

From the top of this church we had a remarkably 
good view of the town. There are many ruins to be 
seen still, caused by the dreadful siege. The walls 
of the arsenal, which was blown up then, are standing. 

In the evening Monsieur went to the theatre, but 
it was so crowded at an early hour that I could not 
get in. The town was illuminated more brilliantly 
than last night, and the inhabitants seemed really 
to be warmed into considerable feelings of loyalty. 
Parties of intoxicated soldiers and bands of little 
children paraded the town, shouting " Vive le Roi i 
Vive Monsieur ! " in which the people joined them with 
great spirit. 

iqth. — We have hired the same cabriolet which we 
brought from Paris, on to Geneva. The sellier, in speak- 
ing of the workmanship of our English carriages which 
he greatly admired, told us that he had just pur- 
chased a machine from an English gentleman, that was 
very curious and unlike anything he had seen before. 
When we came to look at it, we found it to be a dog- 
cart which some gentleman had been glad to get rid 
of in exchange for a cabriolet. This sellier wished us 
to change our intention and, instead of going to 



1 8 1 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 77 

Geneva, to spend our winter in the south of France 
in order to enjoy the great variety of such a climate, 
as in our country we only saw the sun once in three 
months during the winter. A postilion on the road 
once asked me whether there were any stones in Eng- 
land ; he had heard that our roads in England are 
heavy for want of stone fit to make them. The other 
had been told that our winters are cold, and that in 
some parts of the world the sun is for some time 
invisible. These accounts very fairly reduced us to 
a total want of stone and a glimpse of sunshine once 
in three months. 

In passing an optician's, Charles spied a large plate- 
electrifying machine, and of course we went in to 
enquire the price. The plate, made in England and 
therefore highly valued, was thirty-three inches in 
diameter ; the price, frs. 1800. The apparatus with 
it was almost entirely for exhibiting pretty experi- 
ments. 

We called on our banker to get some information 
respecting roads, inns and other matters, which he 
gave us with infinite civility. We wished to see the 
celebrated silk manufacture of Lyons, and he sent a 
messenger to enquire whether the chief manufactory 
was open ; but, unfortunately, Monsieur was to visit 
it to-day, and such great personages as Monsieur and 
myself could not be permitted to clash. However, 
one of the younger men of the bank promised to wait 
upon us after the hour of business and conduct us to 



78 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

another manufactory. At three o'clock he came 
accordingly, and took us to a considerable silk manu- 
facturer's, where we saw a great many looms at work, 
and some very rich stuffs in progress. The workmen 
are paid by the aune, according to the richness and 
consequent tediousness of the work. For one piece 
that we saw, the workman was paid thirty sous per 
aune, and this silk when finished sold for seven or 
eight francs. For another which was uncommonly 
rich, the workman got six francs per aune, and they 
could not (or would not) tell the price. The conductor 
given us by our banker, who was a very young and 
perfectly gentleman-like man, told me, in the course 
of conversation, that had the war continued he must 
have served with the next conscription. 

In the evening I went to the second theatre ; the 
principal one being employed for a great ball given 
to Monsieur. The house is small, but prettier than 
any I saw in Paris. The performance at this theatre, 
as a gentleman informed me, is only intended to cause 
laughter. It had the desired effect to-night, and I 
laughed heartily with the rest, but, in general, with- 
out having tasted much of the joke ; for a 'jest in a 
foreign language is a very incomprehensible thing. 
Some men, indeed, do not find one in their mother- 
tongue much more comprehensible. The band very 
reasonable. 

We leave this for Geneva to-morrow. We have 
found Lyons the most cheerful and handsomest city 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 79 

we have yet seen, both in building and situation. 
When in its most opulent state and supported by an 
extensive commerce, it must have been a splendid 
town. There is very little trade at present, and even 
to the eye the ravages caused by the siege are not yet 
repaired. 

20th. — On examining our bills here, we found that 
we were treated with not only more honesty than we 
had before experienced, but even with considerable 
liberality. Breakfast, for which we had agreed at 
three francs each, is charged but one and a half, and 
every day there was bread and butter left in our room 
without additional charge. Last night, too, after 
the bill was made out, we had a bottle of wine with 
bread, and for this they refused to take any payment. 
The lady was as civil as possible, begged the favour of 
our company on our return, and our recommendation 
in the meantime. 

Lyons to Cerdon. — Left Lyons at half-past nine 
o'clock. At setting off, our postilion told us that al- 
though we had but two horses we must pay him for 
three, and when he had failed to convince us that it 
made no difference to us whether we had two or three, 
and consequently that we ought to pay the same price 
for both, he ran off in a great rage and brought back 
a third horse. He made us, to be sure, pay for the 
three, but we were amply repaid by the additional 
trouble it gave him to drive them. He never ceased, 
during the whole post, muttering to himself and giving, 



80 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

now and then, the usual exclamation of this country, 
" Sacre nom de Dieu I " At the next post the post- 
master came, with his hat in his hand, to beg that 
if we had not a very particular fancy for three horses, 
we would take but two at the regular price ; to which 
we readily agreed. 

In the country through which we have passed to- 
day, the cultivation is principally vine and maize ; but 
there is also some hemp and, near this (Cerdon), a little 
pasture. The vines near Lyons are allowed to grow 
to five and six feet high, and even more ; those more 
north towards Paris are seldom above three. There 
is nothing in the vineyards either gay or riant ; they 
exactly resemble, when seen from a distance, great 
raspberry-beds. 

On arriving at Cerdon, which is a small poor village, 
we were greatly startled at the appearance of our inn. 
The house was precisely like an Irish hedge-ale-house, 
dirty, dark, and forbidding. It was, however, too 
late to go on, and we ascended a kind of ladder stairs 
to a couple of bedrooms, the only two in the house, 
where we found beds of the commonest descrip- 
tion, without head-board or curtains, the rooms with- 
out window-shutters or curtains ; the only furniture 
a deal table and a few chairs. I can well imagine that 
many English travellers would sicken at the very 
idea of sleeping or eating in this place, and yet I never 
was more satisfied with any inn. The beds were in 
themselves good, and the sheets, though coarse, per- 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA Si 

fectly clean. Our dinner was particularly well dressed 
and served up in the neatest manner, with napkins 
and silver forks as usual. The water to make the 
tea was brought up in a kind of flat open saucepan. 
In this part of the world, kettles seem to be quite un- 
known. 

Cerdon to Collonge. — 2 is/. — Cerdon is most beautifully 
situated in a nook of the plain from which the great 
chain of mountains arises. The ascent begins almost 
from the inn door, the road hitherto being quite level. 
When we had reached the top of a tedious mountain, 
about half our post, the driver dismounted and took 
off the third horse. The remainder of the post is all 
descent, when he would be worse than useless, and he 
is always allowed to return alone to his stable. The 
people begin to beg here even worse than to the north 
of Paris. Every village seems to turn out its whole 
population ; in one that consisted of about ten houses, 
we counted twenty-seven beggars round the carriage 
at once, even women and children. Their importunacy 
was extreme ; one woman climbed up on the shaft 
and thrust her hand in at the window. 

When we were going down the hill into Bellegarde, 
a boy met us and ran alongside of the carriage, en- 
treating us to go see something which we with diffi- 
culty discovered to be " la perte superbe du Rhone." 
We had not been prepared for this, but on examining 
our books we found that this is a curiosity esteemed 
worthy of a journey from Geneva to see it. We set 



82 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

out, therefore, accompanied by a troop of women, 
boys, and girls, all seeking to exchange information for 
money, and at the same time begging with the ut- 
most diligence. We declared at once that we would 
pay one guide only ; but the moment he opened his 
mouth the whole troop joined in repeating precisely 
the same words, the consequence of which was that 
we could with difficulty make out what was said. 
All remarkable things are worth seeing, though it be 
but to satisfy one's self that they are not worth see- 
ing; but there did not appear to us to be a journey's 
worth in this curiosity, which all consists in the Rhone 
rushing down a narrow channel between rocks, and 
hiding itself under them three times within a few 
hundred yards. 

(Note of 1821. — J have not done justice to "la perte 
du Rhone." In itself it is really a curiosity : so great a 
river as the Rhone, at so great a distance from its source, 
wholly lost to the sight three times within so short a space. 
The scenery is among the finest I have ever seen. This 
I correct upon a second visit in August, 1820.) 

Entering the State of Geneva, is the little Fort 
La Cluse, built across the road on the side of a mountain 
so steep and rugged as to be inaccessible above and 
below. The fort itself appears to have been of con- 
siderable strength, independent of its situation. It 
is guarded by French soldiers. The sentinel stopped 
us to demand "quelque petite chose pour avoir passe la 
poste." We complied ; but this is an unsoldierly de- 



1 8 1 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 83 

mand not enforced, I suspect, upon French officers 
that travel this way. 

We arrived at Collonge about half-past three o'clock, 
and, liking the appearance of the inn, determined to 
stop. We agreed at once to their own price, and 
begin to believe that the Swiss are more honest in 
their dealings than their neighbours, the French. 
While dinner was preparing we walked for an hour 
and a half amidst the most exquisite scenery imagin- 
able. All to-day, our journey has been through moun- 
tains the most tremendous and the most beautiful I 
had ever seen. We have now come in sight of a range 
still vaster, the peaks of several being capped with 
snow. The inhabitants of these mountains are, to 
all appearance, in a very wretched state of poverty. 

This inn has more appearance of comfort in it than 
anything we have seen on the Continent ; it is almost 
English. There is a good rational chimney-piece and 
hearth-stone, boarded floor and lock on the door, quite 
English, and everything remarkably clean. The only 
French part of the house was the bedchamber, which 
was a part taken off the sitting-room by a slight par- 
tition, just large enough to admit two beds with their 
heads to the wall and their feet touching each other. 
I took the liberty of making two bedchambers by 
rolling out one of the beds, in spite of the fille, who 
wished to prevent me and said that " Madame s'en 
f acker a." 

Collonge to Geneva. — 22nd. — It rained in the night 



84 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

and the mountains are enveloped in clouds. Left 
this about half-past eight o'clock. 

As we were leaving Collonge, a man came to the 
window and informed us that he belonged to the bureau 
of the Douane, and that as he would not give us the 
trouble of opening our trunks, he hoped we would give 
him "quelque petite chose pour boire" At the same time 
he drew back and motioned to the postilion to advance, 
as if he did not expect his hopes to be realized. We 
did, however, give him something, but wishing to get 
some information in return, I asked him whether 
there was any other custom-house before entering 
Geneva. His answer was : " Oui, out, Monsieur ; 
vous me donnerez quelque petite chose, mais vous trou- 
verez le grand boire a St. Genis." We thus discovered 
that, in Switzerland, " douane " and " boire " are 
synonymous terms. The grand boire came in its 
turn ; and then a man came to the carriage and talked 
in dark mysterious terms, something about expedition 
which we could not understand, upon which he retired. 
Presently he returned and begged of us to walk into 
the office, which we did ; and there a gentlemanlike 
person continued to flourish in similar terms upon 
the same theme of expedition, which I at length dis- 
covered to be an enquiry as to how much expedition- 
money we had given at Collonge, and a hint to us to 
give more here. I had suffered so often in this country 
by the want of language, that I thought it quite fair 
to turn it, for once, to my advantage, and I gave so 



i8i 4 ] FROM PARIS TO GENEVA 85 

innocently ignorant an ear to all his hints, that in the 
end he was obliged to desire his attendant to laisser us, 
and we passed through this formidable boire without 
the slightest diminution in our small change. 

Our journey to-day was short and uninteresting, 
for everything around us was so buried in mist that 
it was impossible to see many hundred yards on any 
side. Arrived at Geneva about twelve o'clock. 



CHAPTER IV 
GENEVA 

Geneva. — September 22nd. 

THE inn at which most of the English who 
visit Geneva reside is about a mile from the 
town, beautifully situated on the edge of 
the lake. It is called " Secheron." The 
house, which is very large, is kept particularly clean 
and is quite English. It is crowded with English 
ladies and gentlemen and their servants. I do con- 
fess that, besides their spoiling the general effect of 
novelty in all around us, there are other reasons which 
make me grieve when I am forced to come in contact 
with English gentry. 

When we had dressed we set out to wait upon our 
banker, Mons. Heutsch, whose villa is close to our inn. 
We were told at his gate that he was at home, but 
just going out. While we were still speaking to the 
gate-keeper, we perceived him driving down the 
avenue in a one-horse chaise, and considering that it 
would necessarily be extremely awkward to stop 
him in order to introduce ourselves, we retreated 
with precipitation towards the town. He enquired, 

86 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA 87 

however, at the gate, and hearing that we had desired 
to see him, the moment he overtook us he jumped out, 
his hat in his hand, and amidst a profusion of com- 
pliments forced us, after some resistance on our side, 
to mount into his noddy. The whole way into town 
he talked with amazing rapidity, anticipating all our 
queries, and answering for us all his own. He scarcely 
looked at our letter of introduction. We dismounted 
at his bank, where, after giving us the information 
we sought, he dismissed us with a fresh volley of com- 
pliments. 

From this we went to a bookseller's recommended 
to us by Mons. Heutsch, where we found a very good 
collection of books. Here there was a young girl in 
the shop, and happening to apply to her for some in- 
formation about a book, she answered us in English. 
At a distance from home, the sound of one's own 
language spoken by a foreigner, especially a female, 
is very interesting, and I immediately left the books, 
to converse with this young lady. She talked most 
modestly, and entirely without affectation, of her 
studies and her reading. Although she has never had 
any opportunity of talking English till lately, yet 
she speaks without difficulty in a very intelligible 
manner. 

After walking a little through the town, we returned 
to Secheron ; the weather cloudy and wet. There 
are theatres in Geneva, but at the present moment 
no performers. The people are musical and some- 



88 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

times have good publick concerts. Last year, Rode 
paid them a visit and performed. 

2yd. — Up before six, and read for a couple of hours. 
From the window of my bedchamber there is a fine 
view of the lake and the mountains beyond it, ter- 
minated by Mont Blanc. These mountains do not 
appear monstrous, nor Mont Blanc extraordinary ; 
they are, however, very grand in shape and position, 
and their snows peculiarly striking. I believe the 
truth to be that, after a certain height, mountains 
do not increase to the eye ; and here the mind cannot 
make allowance for the immense distance. 

I walked into the town before breakfast. The 
soldiers at the gates, the dirtiest, worst-dressed 
military I ever beheld. 

Breakfast, perfectly English ; as, indeed, every- 
thing in and about this most comfortable inn. After 
breakfast, I walked again into the town and called 
at the bookseller's ; talked a good deal to our young 
English scholar, Mademoiselle Cherbulier. She has 
been reading Pope's works with great pleasure, with- 
out rinding them difficult. Shakespeare she has 
looked into, but would not attempt to master him 
for fear of being totally discouraged by a failure. 

Bought a plan, and walked by it round the walls 
and through the town. This is the first regular forti- 
fication I have had leisure to examine. Although 
not of any great strength, it is remarkably well con- 
structed, and esteemed by military men ; but un- 



1 8i 4 ] GENEVA 89 

fortunately the town and works are commanded by 
a neighbouring hill. There is not a single piece of 
artillery in the town. The fosse is converted into a 
kitchen garden. The town itself is not dirty and the 
houses are large and well built, but the whole appear- 
ance is dark and gloomy. The booksellers' shops 
announce a cultivation of literature, and the number 
of well-stocked musick shops proves that musick is 
not neglected. 

This evening we have finally determined to pursue 
our original plan of visiting Italy. 

Our dinners here consist of three full courses, of 
five or six dishes each, besides soup. We begged of 
the waiter to diminish this, which we find uncom- 
monly fatiguing, but he says it cannot be done. The 
dinner is the proper dinner for six francs, and they 
never serve one for less ; so we must submit. 

24th. — Up at six o'clock to study Italian, as I have 
agreed to take upon myself all the difficulties to be 
incurred in the prosecution of our Italian journey. 

The garden belonging to the inn extends to the lake, 
and a kind of terrace at the end overhangs the water. 
This forms one of the most delightful little walks 
imaginable ; except at Killarney I have never beheld 
a more exquisite scene. 

After breakfast we walked into town and waited 
on Mons. Heutsch, to make enquiries respecting Italian 
roads, posting, accommodations, etc. We find it ne- 
cessary to purchase a carriage, and, from the accounts 



90 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

we hear, it does not appear to be advisable to defer 
the passage of the mountains beyond the end of this 
month or the very beginning of the next. It may be, 
perhaps, safe after that ; but from the latter end of 
September a fall of snow may be looked for, and that 
is attended with delay and difficulty, if not danger. 
We therefore determine to set out at once. 

To bookseller's, where I had a great deal of con- 
versation with Mademoiselle Cherbulier. This girl, by 
nature just well-looking, is by a sensible countenance 
and the most perfect propriety and modesty of manner 
rendered very interesting. She has read much, must 
have made considerable progress in English to speak 
as she does, and has been learning Italian. She assures 
me that if I were to remain any time in Geneva and mix 
with the inhabitants, I would find a vast deal of in- 
formation diffused through all classes ; and that I should 
not meet, in any town on the Continent, so many 
persons that read English. On coming to accuracy 
with her, I find the latest English works here are 
Johnson and Goldsmith. She had heard of Walter 
Scott and Lord Byron, but not of Campbell, Southey, 
or Crabbe. 

I happened to ask her whether any English had 
resided at Geneva during the war. She answered 
very simply, "Ah, no ! all the English were obliged 
to live in France, at a place called Verdun." 

Mademoiselle Cherbulier shewed me to-day a collec- 
tion of all the Ranz de Vaches, twenty-eight in number. 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA 91 

Each canton has its own. The words are German, 
except to that which we know so well in this country 
and one or two others ; these are of the Pays de Vaud, 
where the people talk French. I asked about the 
effect said to be produced on the Swiss soldiery by 
this national musick. Mademoiselle Cherbulier spoke 
of it not as an ordinary effect upon them, but as a 
thing said to have happened once, while they were 
serving under the French. 

(Note. — " Cet air si cheri des Suisses quHl fut 
dcfcndu sous peine de mort de le jouer dans les troupes, 
parce qtiil faisoit fondre en larnies, deserter ou mourir 
ceux qui Ventendroient, tant il excitoit en eux Vardent 
desir de revoir leur pays." — Rousseau, "Diet, de 
Musique.") 

Walked in the town and round the walls. Saw the 
pillar erected by the Genevese to the memory of their 
celebrated citizen, J. J. Rousseau. The day, and 
consequently the views, enchanting. There is some- 
thing wonderfully striking in the effect produced by 
Mont Blanc and the other great mountains, as seen 
from this. There is an awful grandeur in those pro- 
digious masses of snow, towering above the clouds 
and closing, in cold solemnity, a view where nature 
seems to have exhausted herself in forming the most 
luxuriant warmth of scenery. 

25^. — Read and walked in the garden before break- 
fast. 

To St. Gervais's church. We arrived too late and 



92 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

only heard about ten minutes of the conclusion of the 
sermon. The manner of the preacher, though entirely 
different to what we are accustomed to, was impres- 
sive and interesting ; the discourse seemed to relate 
to the recent events of the political world. After the 
sermon there were some short prayers, and singing 
with an organ ; then, the benediction. The organ 
handsomely ornamented, and well played, but too 
lightly. The congregation seemed attentive ; but all 
who like it kept on their hats during the service. 

After our return to Secheron, we drove to Ferney, 
to visit Voltaire's chateau. It is now in the posses- 
sion of a Genoese family, who reside in it. Voltaire's 
bedchamber and a saloon are preserved, for the grati- 
fication of visitors, in the state in which they were 
while he occupied them. The bedchamber is hung 
with portraits. Immediately over the bed is the 
celebrated " Le Kain." At each side, above this, 
are Frederic the great, and Voltaire himself at the 
age of thirty-two, a countenance full of fire and anima- 
tion. These are as large as life, as are also two others, 
the " Marquise de Chatelet," and the Empress Cathe- 
rine, in work, presented to Voltaire " par Vauteur." 
In a smaller size are Delille, Diderot, Newton, Franklin, 
Racine, Milton, Washington, Corneille, Ant. Thomas, 
D'Alembert, Leibnitz, Helvetius, Marmontel, and one 
other ~whose name I have forgotten. There is nothing, 
beyond these, remarkable in the apartments, and my 
feeling about Voltaire was not sufficient to give much 



1814] GENEVA 93 

interest to them ; but this is one of the great Geneva 
sights, and must be seen. The drive to Ferney is 
very pleasant. 

26th. — Read for two hours, and walked in the garden 
before breakfast. 

I took Charles to an optician's, to see an ingenious 
mountain barometer. The inventor, who is an old 
man, possesses talent and ingenuity. He formerly 
had things on a large scale, and gave lectures on 
Natural Philosophy ; but Mr. Bonaparte, as he informed 
us, put an end to all this by the difficulties which he 
threw in the way of science at Geneva. Professors 
were obliged to take out licences at a considerable 
expence, and to appear in person to be registered at 
Paris. He has now but a few instruments, and is 
very poor. 

Called on M. Heutsch, who received us with his 
usual politeness, and gave us much information con- 
cerning our route. He enquired whether we had re- 
ceived a card from Madame Heutsch, to invite us to 
a party next Wednesday evening at which the Princess 
of Wales and all the world are to be present ; hoped 
to see us then, and would not hear of our leaving 
Geneva before Thursday. 

About four o'clock, the Princess of Wales * arrived 

* Caroline of Brunswick, born in 1768, was the second daughter 
of the Duke of Brunswick and of Princess Augusta of England, 
sister of George III. At the age of twenty-six years she was married 
to the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV ; but as the result of 
differences arising from the relations of the Prince to Mrs. Fitz- 



94 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

at Secheron, and caused a great bustle. She has two 
handsome carriages, and an English mail-coach for 
servants and heavy luggage. There are four or five 
gentlemen in her suite, and four or five servants 
dressed in a kind of undress German uniform, besides 
a major-domo. She is gone this evening to a great 
ball, given by Lady Charlotte Campbell who is in 
Geneva.* 

I had been invited in the day to a party at a Madame 
Odier's. I left Secheron about eight o'clock, but just 
as I reached the town I found that I had forgotten the 
card, and could not recollect the name of either lady 
or street. In this difficulty I hesitated some time, 

herbert and Lady Jersey, a formal separation took place in Sep- 
tember, 1796, after the birth of Princess Charlotte Augusta. The 
Prince was appointed Regent in 181 1, and in the following year he 
refused to allow the Princess further access to her daughter. Ac- 
cordingly, on the 9th of August, 18 13, Princess Caroline left England 
for the Continent, travelling in the Jason frigate, with a consider- 
able suite. Her household, while abroad, was entirely under the 
direction of her courier, Bergami ; and it is somewhat remarkable 
that the diarist avoids allusion to the rumours then freely current 
as to the conduct of the household and the position of the courier. 
In the debates on the historic Bill of Divorce, Queen Caroline 
was successfully defended by Brougham ; but she did not recover 
from the King's subsequent refusal to permit her coronation. She 
was taken ill in Drury Lane Theatre on the 30th of July, 1821, and 
died on the 7th of August. Her funeral was the occasion of a fatal 
encounter between the military and the mob, the latter insisting 
that the body should be carried through the City, contrary to the 
King's orders. 

* This ball is described in Lady Charlotte Campbell's Diary. 
(v. " The Diary of a Lady-in -Waiting," by Lady Charlotte Bury, 
vol. i., pp. 279-80. London : John Lane.) 



1 8 14] GENEVA 95 

until at length, fancying that the name was " Odoin," 
I determined to proceed and endeavour to make out 
the house. After addressing myself in vain to several 
persons, I met a young gentleman who very kindly 
engaged to discover the house for me, if possible. 
He accordingly made enquiries of everyone we met, 
called on every friend of his in the streets through 
which we passed, and repeated all the names his im- 
agination could suggest to him sounding like " Odoin," 
till we were both tired and agreed to part, when he 
suddenly asked could it be " Odier," and I at once 
knew the name. He was acquainted with her ; but 
" Odoin " and " Odier," though not very dissimilar 
in sound to my ears, were so much so to his that he 
laughed heartily, in spite of his politeness, when I 
remarked, " You see, I was not very far wrong after 
all." 

I found a small party, with cards and musick. 
There was nothing different from what might have been 
at any party in England, except that most people 
talked French, or French and English mixed. We 
were dismissed before eleven o'clock, which is almost 
of necessity, for the town gates shut at eleven, after 
which no one is permitted to pass in or out. 

On my return, I was very nearly being put to an 
untimely death for no greater a crime than not talking 
German. A soldier on the first bridge challenged me 
as I came up ; and I, not understanding what the 
fellow was snorting at, continued to advance without 



96 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

answering, upon which, without another word, he 
presented his musket at me. I did verily believe, for 
an instant, that it was all over with me, but I shouted 
manfully, " Halloa, sir ! " and this fortunately served 
to check him till I came up. As soon as he saw what 
I was, he gave one short snort, shouldered his musket, 
turned to the right-about-face, and, without paying the 
least attention to me, resumed his walk. I did not feel 
quite at my ease till I had passed clear out of the 
fortifications. There was a clear sky and an uncom- 
monly brilliant moon, and nothing could be more 
enchanting than the lake and mountains in this light. 

2jth. — This morning we concluded the purchase of 
a carriage. The body is of an English chaise about 
half a century old ; the carriage was made in France, 
and the wheels are Genevese. It has never run since 
Mons. Dejean gave it the last thorough repair which, 
being to hire out on his own account, ought for his 
own interest to have been well executed. It is heavy 
and clumsy, but roomy and convenient ; and if it 
does but last, we shall have got a good bargain. We 
pay thirty-five pounds, British. Arranged everything 
for our departure to-morrow. 

I walked into town and bought a good case of pistols 
for thirty-eight francs. The fire-arms made here are 
good for common use, but very roughly finished. On 
the Continent they have by no means kept pace with 
the English improvement in locks. Manton's name 
and work are now well known, and also Mortimer's. 



1 8 1 4 ] GENEVA 97 

I bought a collection of all the Ranz de Vache. Paid 
a long visit to Mademoiselle Cherbulier, of whom I 
took leave. 

In the evening one of the Princess of Wales's atten- 
dants, a German, practised on the violin under our 
room, accompanied on the pianoforte. He performed 
in a masterly, though not highly finished style. I 
have not heard for a long time any musick that pleased 
me so much. Last night, and the morning before, 
parties of countrymen passed the inn, singing in parts 
as they walked. One man beat time, another sung 
the first part and made the closes, and some only 
joined in chorus. This is the first singing in parts 
we have heard by the peasants. 



CHAPTER V 

GENEVA TO MILAN 

September 28th. 

LEFT Secheron amidst the most pleasing civili- 
ties from master, waiters, etc. I shall not 
j quickly forget this charming inn, the most 
comfortable residence I have been in since 
I left England. We carry on a ham and two bottles 
of wine, to be provided against accidents. There is 
no signing of passports nor enquiry into our designs, 
either entering or quitting this state. Goitres are 
extremely common in and about Geneva ; almost 
every second person in the lower rank seems to be 
in some degree affected. The first we had observed 
were near Lyons. 

Geneva to St. Gingoux. — Our road lay, the whole day, 
close along the lake to St. Gingoux, which is a small 
village within a few miles of the upper end. At Evian, 
two posts and a half from this, the great Simplon road 
begins, so far an admirable one, but narrow. 

Before dinner, we walked for two hours along the 
lake. This is considered the most beautiful part of 
the lake, and certainly it would be difficult to imagine 
scenery more enchanting. On the opposite shore, 

98 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN 99 

which is finely shaped with noble mountains in the 
distance, are Lausanne, Vevey and other towns. 
Above our heads rise the rocks of Meillurie, of the 
most picturesque form, and a finely wooded mountain, 
beyond which mountains loftier and more grand 
appear till the whole is terminated by tops covered 
with everlasting snow. 

At dinner we had soup and two courses, good enough 
for travellers. The wine proving to be indifferent 
vinegar, I asked for a bottle less acid, and one was 
carried away from the table and brought up again 
after a fit tie delay, not at all improved by the voyage. 
Our attendant, a young girl, when she had given us 
plates and whatever else we wanted, opened the window 
and leaned out of it to amuse herself. When she was 
tired of this, she sat down and continued sitting during 
the remainder of the dinner, rising very civilly when- 
ever we called for anything. 

I 29^. — Rose at five o'clock, almost in the dark. 
Venus beautifully bright ; I saw her gradually dimin- 
ishing till the sun rose over the lake — a splendid sight. 
Got off at seven o'clock. 

St. Gingoux to Sion. — Quitted the lake in a short 
time, and travelled all the rest of the day along the 
Rhone. I had supposed that all roads through the 
Alps must be mountainous and difficult, however 
winding and skilfully planned. In sixty miles through 
which we passed to-day, there is nothing deserving the 
name of a hill. The drag-chain was twice used, but, 



ioo THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

although we were anxious to look a little about us, 
we could not get a single opportunity of walking ; 
the whole route is through the valley. 

The Simplon line from St. Gingoux to this has dis- 
appointed us. It is so narrow that in most places 
it would be difficult (in some impossible) for two car- 
riages to pass, as we twice experienced by meeting 
the little carts of the country. A great part of the 
road is old, and all very bad ; I should suppose, im- 
passable when the mountain torrents are swollen. 
It is altogether unworthy to belong in any way to the 
greatest work of modern times. The bridges across 
the rivers and torrents, which are very numerous, are 
extremely frightful to those who are unaccustomed to 
them. They are formed of two trees laid across from 
bank to bank, which support a flooring of deal planks. 
Two more trees are laid upon the planks, immediately 
over the others, and their ends tied together to prevent 
the planks starting. There is no nailing or other 
fastening of any kind. The planks rattle and the 
trees bend, but the bridge, though apparently so in- 
secure, is in reality safe enough. 

At St. Maurice we were delayed an hour by the 
absence of the postmaster and all his postilions. 
After waiting some time, we found a juge de la paix. 
We told our story to him and he sent " une invitation " 
to an innkeeper in the town, to furnish us with a driver 
to conduct the post horses ; with which he kindly 
complied. We experienced, at first, some difficulty 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN 101 

from the late changes ; for no one could inform us 
who was to be applied to under the present regulation. 
The following two posts were performed with the 
same horses, the intermediate post being abandoned. 
There is snow of this year on some of the mountains 
near this. The people particularly civil in their 
manner and salutation. Almost everyone with goitre 
in some degree. We saw to-day a few of those who are 
afflicted in the highest degree with this dreadful 
malady. These unfortunate beings present a shocking 
sight ; their countenances are frightfully distorted ; 
they are deprived of speech and reduced to a state 
of complete idiotism. 

Reached Sion before seven o'clock. The inn was 
full, and we were conducted to a house at some dis- 
tance, large and well built, but at present uninhabited. 
It had lately been used as a custom-house or some 
other publick building. Here we bargained our enter- 
tainment from twenty to eighteen francs ; our supper 
being brought from the inn. 

30//^ — Up at half-past five. Breakfast excellent in 
all respects, with nice honey. They added the three 
francs we reduced them last night, and charged nine 
francs for breakfast. When a price is once named for 
anything already used, I consider it as paid ; but 
Charles spoke to the waiter of the unreasonableness 
of this demand. He assured him it was " what he 
always charged the English." We could not com- 
plain after this. The waiter here, a young man, spoke 



102 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Sept. 

German, Italian, and French, and said he intended to 
learn English. 

While we were waiting for the horses I happened, 
in rambling through the rooms, to meet the remnant 
of an old custom-house book, the title of which gave 
us a hearty laugh, coming in our way so happily just 
after the payment of so exorbitant a price for break- 
fast ; other impositions, too, equally great, being 
fresh in our minds. The title was " Liste des Im- 
positions en France." If the Liste was complete, it 
must needs have formed a huge volume. 

Left this at half-past seven. All day, winding 
through the mountains, along the Rhone, which we 
crossed several times. The language of this part of 
the country is the German of the Middle Ages. The 
road, to-day, in general better than yesterday ; part of 
it new, but mostly old ; new bridges. The day cold 
and, from a little after three o'clock, raining. To-day 
we see, for the first time, churches of ornamental 
architecture, and houses fancifully painted. A num- 
ber of altars and small chapels, with images of saints 
or representations of the crucifixion, built by the 
roadside. To one of these our postilion took off his 
hat, and this is the first mark of respect we have seen 
paid to them or to crosses ; except in Switzerland, 
none to clergy. Peasants' houses, all, or the upper 
half, made of fir, with a great many very small win- 
dows of thick glass. Some of these stand in the 
mountain, on spots apparently inaccessible. From 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN 103 

the time we first entered the mountains, beyond 
Geneva, we perceived the houses furnished with large 
balls of tin or metal on the roofs. We at first supposed 
they might be conductors of electricity, but they are 
only for ornament. The same custom is continued 
as far as this, and here no church or building of any 
kind is without them. It is remarkable that so 
dangerous an ornament should prevail in a country 
exposed, as this is, to frequent thunder-storms. 

Arrived here before three o'clock. We were shown 
into the salle- a- manger, but, being told that beaucoup 
de monde was presently expected here, we begged 
another apartment. A bad supper was served to us 
by a little boy about nine years of age. We had a fowl 
of such an age that I doubt not it could have given 
valuable information relative to the first formation of 
the mountains around us ; yet, even here, the cloth 
was clean, and there were silver forks. 

While we were eating, an English gentleman and 
two ladies were shown into the room, which was a small 
one. We met, perfectly a Vanglaise, without exchang- 
ing words or looks. They sat down at a table in the 
corner of the room, and we rose and retired to our 
bedchambers as soon as we had finished dinner. So 
much for English manner ! Frenchmen, placed in 
the same situation, would have been pleased to meet, 
and become friends in five minutes. 

October 1st. — In the morning, awoke at five o'clock. 



104 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

It rained dreadfully, but we resolved to pursue our 
journey, for fear of worse. 

We find that the large party in the saloon last night 
were Madame Lucien Bonaparte * and family, on their 
way to Rome. They travel incog., with three coaches 
conducted by Voiturin. The boy who was arranging 
our luggage told me that our carriage had been all 
night under shelter, but that theirs had been under 
the rain, because they were " de mauvaises gens" 

Just as we were setting out, the ladies and gentle- 
man who were in our room last night came out, and 
begged our pardon for having intruded on us, but they 
had no other place to sit in except their bedrooms, 
which were cold and dirty, with straw beds. I made 
the best apology in my power for not having behaved 
more politely to them, and assured them that we were 
very happy to have accommodated them, but that 
they must blame English reservedness for our apparent 
incivility. They appeared to be quiet, well-meaning 
travellers, wishing like ourselves to see everything in 
a moderate way. They had come from Geneva to 
see the Simplon, and had just crossed and recrossed 
it. Thus we lost an agreeable society and useful in- 
formation and have purchased a good lesson from 
experience. 



* This was Lucien's second wife, Marie de Bleschamps, whom 
he had married in 1802, after her divorce from M. Jouberthon. 
Lucien's first wife died in 1800. There were two children of the 
first marriage, and nine of the second. 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN 105 

Off at eight o'clock. The postmaster made us take 
five horses, assuring us that four would never draw us up. 

Brigue to Simplon. — We are now on the top of the 
Simplon, and have seen the half of this celebrated 
road. It far surpasses our most exalted conceptions 
of it. The ascent commences from Glyss, a small 
village, a short distance from Brigue. The mountain 
is of great height, extremely rugged, and, on the 
Swiss side, covered with forests of fir and pine. Up 
this mountain a road, twenty-four feet wide through- 
out, is carried to the height of 5000 feet with an even 
ascent, so gradual as to be in general but one and a 
half (never more than three) inches in a yard. The 
difficulties that opposed the formation of this road 
are incredible. The engineers who were first sent down 
to examine it declared the thing impossible ; but 
Napoleon, having once pronounced " je le veux," would 
hear of no impossibilities. He traced the course with 
his own hand, and commanded it to be carried into 
execution. A formidable obstacle was from the 
weather ; for the severity of the winter destroyed 
the labour of the summer, and the avalanches of 
spring never fail to carry away and obstruct parts 
of the road. By degrees, these difficulties are vanish- 
ing ; the work grows firm, and nature seems at length 
to be weary of resistance. Neglect, however, is much 
to be dreaded ; and we are told that, last winter, so 
little attention was paid to the necessary repairs that 
the road was wholly impassable. 



io6 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

On the side of the mountain which we have climbed 
to-day there are seven houses of refuge, provided with 
every means of succouring and entertaining travellers 
in distress. In one of these we saw eight sheep killed, 
and about to be salted for the winter. Here we eat 
a most comfortable luncheon of bread, cheese and 
butter, with very rich cream, all served with the 
utmost neatness. 

At the conclusion of the war, when the Italian army 
was passing the mountain, a party of three hundred 
men, with a colonel and twenty-five officers, were 
attacked by a large body of the peasantry armed 
with rifle-guns. After some fighting, they retired to 
this house of refuge where, after two hours' firing, 
nine of them being killed and many wounded, they 
were compelled to surrender themselves prisoners. 
Our host was in the house at the time ; he shewed us 
the marks of balls everywhere. 

Besides these houses of refuge, Napoleon was build- 
ing a convent at the very top, which was to be under 
the same regulations as that on St. Bernard. 

It may give some idea of the height and steepness 
of the mountain which is with such facility ascended 
by this noble road, that after we had been mounting 
six hours and an half, we were still so close to the 
village we had left in the morning that I could count 
the windows of the houses. Also, the old mule path, 
which did not wind much, but kept as straight as the 
mountain would permit, making the shortest practi- 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN 107 

cable route, was but one post to the summit, whereas 
this is six. 

Shortly after we left Brigue, the rain ceased and 
the day became mild and sufficiently warm till we 
reached the summit of the mountain. The cold then 
obliged us to button our coats and close the windows ; 
yet the coldness was only that of a sharp wind, and 
our feet and hands were not affected by it. The 
highest part of the Simplon traversed by the road is 
a naked savage plain, about 5000 feet above the level 
of the sea, close to glaciers and everlasting snows. 
The mountains that rise from the plain appear un- 
diminished to the sight by the loss of 5000 feet. Here 
is no vegetation of any kind ; the very pine refuses 
to grow. When we reached the top a thick cloud, 
passing over it, enveloped us and prevented our seeing 
more than a hundred yards from the carriage. Shortly 
after, the cloud suddenly divided, and the peak of 
Monte Rosa, covered with snow and brightly illu- 
minated by the sun, appeared as if hanging over our 
heads and, from its closeness to us, shewing enor- 
mously high. This was the sublimest sight I ever 
beheld, or that I can conceive. It was afterwards 
seen at intervals, during the space of half an hour. 

From the plain the descent begins, gradual like the 
ascent. In no part of this wonderful way is there 
anything to strike the eye as dangerous, or to alarm 
the most timid person. The precipices are, indeed, 
tremendous, but they are secured and guarded, to the 



108 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

eye, by walls or strong paling from three and an half 
to five feet high. Long poles are placed along the 
edge, to mark out the road in snow. Although the 
banks are becoming firm, yet many parts have lately 
fallen in, and many are ready to fall. In one spot, 
two rocks which rolled down within these few days 
have left barely room for a carriage to pass. 

We reached Simplon at six o'clock, after eight 
hours of actual travelling, for we stopped for two hours 
on the way. The appearance of our inn miserable, 
beyond description. We climbed up dirty narrow 
stairs to a still dirtier lobby, from which a filthy 
passage conducted us into rooms gloomy and low ; 
the windows, latticed, extremely small, and made of 
thick glass, hardly admitted light enough to guide 
us safely across the floor. The beds and all the furni- 
ture made of dark fir, and the rooms cased with it. 
We agreed, as usual, for eighteen francs, and had 
for supper mutton, pork, chamois dressed with sweet 
sauce, stewed apples, turnips and potatoes, peaches 
and apples, and reasonable (or drinkable) wine. No 
silver forks. A foolish waiter found something so 
entertaining in us, that he was incessantly in a broad 
grin of laughter. 

When we stopped at the inn, two monks, young men, 
apparently two- or three-and-twenty, came towards 
the carriage while I was sending in our luggage, 
saluted me, and seemed disposed to enter into con- 
versation. I was well pleased to gratify them, and 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN 109 

we conversed a good deal. Their language, amongst 
each other (for several joined us afterwards), was 
Latin ; to the people, they spoke German ; and me 
they honoured with a mixture of Latin, French, Ger- 
man and Italian — chiefly the latter. I never met 
men so grossly ignorant of all worldly affairs ; they 
were, however, remarkably inquisitive, and examined 
every part of my dress minutely. Their thoughts 
were full of " un grand principc aut milord inglese" 
(Lord Holland), who slept here last night ; but when 
I informed them that the Princess of Wales would pass 
the mountain, their wonder knew no bounds. As 
long as I remained with them, they continually ejacu- 
lated, " Bon dieu ! une principessa ! " They did not 
know who the Princess of Wales was ; they had never 
heard of the Prince of Wales ; and when I told them 
he was regent of England, they said they thought 
there was a king of England, and seemed bewildered 
by my explanations of the matter. They agreed 
among themselves that it was absolutely impossible 
for so great a princess to sleep in the Simplon 
inn. 

2nd. — This is the first place where cleanliness has 
been unattended to. The dinner cloth had served 
many an honest party, and, in the morning, as much 
of the dinner equipage was removed as would leave 
room for us to breakfast at one end of the table. One 
of the most beautiful girls I ever saw made our beds, 
and regretted much that she could not talk French 



no THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

enough to converse with us. The language is a kind 
of German. 

Simplon to Baveno. — We were delayed till nine 
o'clock. The Italian side of the Simplon is very 
different from the other, being one bare mass of granite. 
The scenery is infinitely grander and more striking, 
and the difficulty of making the road far more serious. 
Once this is overcome, however, the work is less liable 
to injury ; for although the severe snows and falling 
avalanches may for a time obstruct the way, yet the 
solid rock through which it is bored will save it from 
destruction. We passed to-day five galleries ; the 
greatest of these, formed in the solid granite, is 600 
feet in length. Immediately on emerging from this 
gallery, a monstrous chasm, filled by a rapid torrent, 
is passed on a bridge of wood. The work on this spot 
is truly wonderful ; and nothing can exceed the mag- 
nificence of the scenery. On this gallery, twenty- 
four men were employed day and night for eighteen 
months, one set relieving another. The ascent on 
this side is more steep than on the other, but the 
road is equally perfect. Throughout, I would pro- 
nounce it to be (independent of the mountain diffi- 
culties) the best and most completely finished road 
I have ever met. 

At Iselle our passports were examined and marked 
for Italy. The custom-house officers took our word 
(backed by a boire) that our trunks contained nothing 
but wearing apparel. Immediately beyond Iselle, 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN in 

the dress of the peasantry changes to Italian. The 
women here wear a kind of open waistcoat or spencer 
of red stuff, a brown pelisse and short petticoat. 

We continued to wir 'own the mountain, and 
presently hailed the ph .o of Italy. 

At Duomo d'Ossola, the first Italian town, we en- 
countered a heap of difficulties that for an hour or 
two almost completely destroyed the pleasure of being 
really in Italy. On arriving here we were told that 
we must now pay two francs, fifteen sous, each horse, 
instead of one franc, ten sous, as before. To enquire 
whether this was an imposition or not, I sent for the 
postmaster, who came up to the carriage and ad- 
dressed me, to my utter consternation, in Italian. 
This was the first time I had heard the language spoken, 
and I confess it did so overpower me that all the little 
I possessed wholly fled, and I could not comprehend 
a syllable of what he said. I put the question, " to 
pay or not to pay," in French and, being answered " s^'," 
quietly yielded. When the postilion came for pay- 
ment, he, perceiving my deficiency, attacked me in 
Italian and I was hardly able to bring him back to his 
French. I desired him to change a louis and, a fresh 
trouble, he brought me back silver of different kinds 
with the names and values of all of which I was wholly 
unacquainted. In the midst of the confusion atten- 
dant on these distresses, the horses harnessed and the 
postilion growing impatient, the innkeeper joined in, 
to inform us that our carriage was broken, and con- 



ii2 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

sequently that we must remain with him to-night. 
This was a false alarm. 

At length we got off, and did find ourselves seriously 
embarrassed concerning our means of getting through 
this country, my first attempt at the Italian not 
having impressed even myself with a very favourable 
opinion of my progress, or qualifications to serve as 
a conductor through Italy. In a little time we came 
to a bridge, where a man stopped us and said some- 
thing in Italian. I listened with all my ears and, 
catching the sound of " ponte," rightly conjectured 
he wanted money for passing the bridge. " Quanto ? " 
said I. " Una lira" said he. It was paid ; and from 
this little incident I at once recovered my confidence 
in myself, and felt assured that I should be able to 
perform my undertaking and make my way to Rome. 

We had been delayed so long in the morning, that 
we found the night coming on while we were still 
some posts distant from the place we had been advised 
to stop at. We determined to take the first inn we 
met, and accordingly examined the post-house at ; 
Baveno, which is not mentioned in any of the books 
as a sleeping-place. The inn is neatly fitted up, with 
clean beds and a nice eating-room. We are particu- 
larly fortunate in being forced to stop here, for it is 
on the borders of the Lago Maggiore, close to the 
Borromean Islands, and had we gone on as we were 
directed, we should have been obliged to return in i 
order to see them. 



*] GENEVA TO MILAN 113 

Vhen we stopped at the inn, a crowd immediately 
hered round the carriage to stare at us. Our 
riage was brought into the yard, and the ostler 
k off our trunks and carried them into the house, 
sked him why he did so, for in every other place 
y had remained on all night ; and he told me " that 
;ht be in France or England, but that in Italy no 
keeper would undertake to answer for their safety." 
mer, excellent. In the evening an old man paid 
1 visit, and talked a great deal of Italian, the greater 
t of which was entirely lost on us. Curiosity seemed 
>e the only motive of his visit. 

'he beds here, which are most comfortable to lie 
>n, are remarkably simple in their construction, 
arge mattress, two feet in thickness, is laid upon 
ee forms ; a quilted coverlet serves for blankets 
I quilt. The waiter, who is likewise cook, spoke 
lian, French, German, and a little English. He 
ays began his address to us in miserable English, 
n quickly passed to French, and finished by modu- 
ng into rapid Italian, without ever appearing to 
erve that he had changed, or that we were not 
ally acquainted with them all. 
lext morning, before breakfast, I walked out and 
i a long conversation with some boatmen on the 
re, in order to try my strength in the Italian. My 
cess was encouraging. 

Ve hired a boat to visit the Borromean Islands, 
la Bella is entirely covered down to the water, on 



ii4 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

all sides, with a palace and pyramid of gardens, raised 
on vaults. The gardens are stiff and artificial, but 
curious and in character with the other parts of the 
building. The family of Prince Borromeo are at 
present residing here ; but we were conducted through 
all the apartments, even those where any of them 
were, and past the chapel where mass was performing. 
In one room some gentlemen were playing billiards ; 
in another, three or four young ladies were trying 
over some musick. Here, there were great signs of 
musick — four violin cases, a violoncello and two 
pianofortes. The ladies were not in the least disturbed 
by our passing through the room, but played on with- 
out attending to us. Isola Madre is larger than Isola 
Bella, and laid out, as our guide-book informs us, 
" dans un style un peu plus chanipetre" It may be 
so ; but the whole island is a garden and not a very 
natural one. Pheasants are in great abundance on 
the island. A little girl presented us with flowers, 
fresh pulled ; and a little boy, with grapes and pears. 
We gave them each a small piece of money and made 
them quite happy. 

We were gratified by seeing these far-famed islands, 
but, on the whole, rather disappointed. They are 
curious, and the views from them beautiful, but it 
would be the height of injustice to compare either 
of them with our Innisf alien. Travellers have often 
called them the Enchanted Islands ; and they seem 
to me to be with peculiar propriety ascribed to the 



i8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN 115 

powers of enchantment. Unnatural in themselves 
they start up, in defiance of nature, amidst the roman- 
tick beauties of this charming lake. 

Baveno to Sesto Calende. — (3rd). — Got off from 
Baveno, with a fair charge for breakfast and without 
any attempt to cheat us. Along the road, we saw them 
everywhere gathering in the grapes, which they carry 
in long baskets on their backs. The people ill-dressed 
and ragged ; very many men without stockings. I saw 
a curious mode of carrying children to-day. There is 
a basket about three feet high carried on the back, 
supported by a strap that goes round the neck, like 
a market load. In the lower part a little child sits, 
and another is tied down on the top. 

At Belgirate, I was conducted to the custom-house 
and had our passports marked for the King of Sar- 
dinia's dominions. At Sesto Calende we crossed the 
Ticino by a ferry. The safety and ease with which 
the business is managed here makes an Englishman 
blush for the bungling ferries in his own country. 
Two large flat boats are fastened alongside of each 
other, covered with planks and railed round so as to 
form a stage or platform. The carriage drives up an 
inclined plane upon this, and the whole passes gently 
over by means of running ropes, assisted with oars. 
If the boat happens to be at the right side when one 
arrives, the passage of a river is nearly as expeditious 
as driving the same distance on land. Sometimes, 
however, a traveller arrives just as the boat has left 



n6 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

the shore, and he may then experience a delay, pos- 
sibly of near an hour. The charge at this river is 
thirty sous, and a small gratuity to the men. 

At Sesto the custom-house turned out to be no 
boire i and the Emperor of Austria's officers, dressed 
in pale blue with silver lace, very politely turned the 
contents of our portmanteaus upside down, to our no 
small derangement. 

Since we have entered Italy, the appearance of 
inns is quite changed. Our rooms here are spacious 
and lofty ; walls and ceiling ornamentally painted, 
floor of flag, chimney-piece (or, rather, fire-place) eight 
feet wide. There is no grate of any kind : the fire is 
made in a tin pan. The beds, as last night, on three 
forms, without curtains or testers ; no window cur- 
tains. The beds look well and the sheets, as well as 
table-cloth and napkins, are perfectly clean. Dinner 
cooked in a peculiar way, and with oil and garlick, but 
good in its way. Since we entered Switzerland the 
bread has everywhere been good ; in France, I think, 
we hardly ever saw a morsel that was not in some 
degree sour. 

(Note. — / do not know what was the reason of this, 
but the fact is so. On my return, in the following March, 
the bread was in every place excellent.) 

4th. — Up at half-past five o'clock. In Italy and 
France, people seem to find a warmth in themselves 
which English blood cannot supply. At this early 
hour, the morning bitterly cold, gentlemen were 



1 8i 4 ] GENEVA TO MILAN 117 

dressing themselves on the balcony, while I was 
almost shivering inside. Last night I found my 
windows thrown wide open to cool my bedchamber. 
Scsto Calcndc to Milan. — The Simplon road, bound 
with granite and ornamented with posts, ends at 
Sesto ; but to Milan the road is excellent. The day 
pleasant, with a lovely sky. Posting admirable ; 
the delay at each post less than in France ; harness 
better appointed. The horses are lighter and shew 
more blood than any we have seen on the Continent ; 
the colour, chiefly grey or white. 



CHAPTER VI 
MILAN 

WE arrived early at Milan. We have two 
bedrooms and a saloon, all good enough ; 
the furniture scanty and antiquated. 
The master and waiters talk indifferent 
French, as almost all here, this being the capital of 
the French kingdom of Italy. Our situation is so 
deplorable that we now experience the same joy in 
meeting French, as formerly we did in meeting English. 
Our dinner has been excellent, though all the dishes 
strangers to us. 

In the evening to the grand Opera, the first I have 
been at in Italy. The theatre della Scala is the most 
splendid in Italy, or second only to San Carlo at 
Naples. Nothing can be more magnificent than the 
coup cfozil. The shape of the theatre is a finely pro- 
portioned oval, the size vastly greater than that of 
our opera-house. The decorations are beautiful and 
the scenery superb. The front pannels of all the boxes, 
from top to bottom, are looking-glass, and in front 
of every box is hung a chandelier with five lights. The 
brilliancy of this prodigious quantity of light, aided 

iz8 



i8i4] MILAN 119 

by the reflections from the looking-glass, is incon- 
ceivable. 

(Note of 1821. — On the 4th of October, 1821, / was 
again at the opera when the house was illuminated, but 
there was no looking-glass ; and I now find that my good 
luck was even greater than I had supposed, for the 
mirrors were extra splendour on account of the Peace 
and recent successes.) 

General Bellegarde,* General Kleynau and a large 
suite were present to-night. The house was crowded 
in every part, but no one in the boxes attended to 
either opera or ballet. 

(Note of 1821. — September 24, 1821. Arrived in 
Milan. In the evening to opera with Richard. f Dur- 
ing the first scene, we could hardly catch a sound, and 
fully acknowledged the truth of M. Mathews' 's observation 
tltat it was like penny trumpets on Salisbury Plain. By 
degrees we caught the air, and afterwards heard reason- 
ably well. The following night our hearing was im- 
proved, and in one or two more we heard perfectly well. 

* Henri Comte de Bellegarde (1755— 1831) was in the Austrian 
service. In 1806 he had been made field-marshal and Governor of 
Galicia. At the date of this record he was living in Paris as a 
private individual. 

t Richard Mayne (1 796-1868) was called to the Bar at Lincoln's 
Inn in 1822. The raising, organization, and training of the " new 
police," instituted in 1829, were entrusted to Colonel (afterwards 
Sir Charles) Rowan and Richard Mayne, as joint Commissioners ; 
and on the resignation of Sir Charles in 1850, Richard Mayne be- 
came Chief Commissioner. His wife, Georgianna, whose portrait 
faces page 148, was the daughter of Thomas Carvick, of Wyke, in 
Yorkshire. 



120 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

The difficulty arises partly from the vastness of the house, 
and partly from the noise. The same opera is played 
every night and so people grow careless to all but par- 
ticular parts. The back of the pit is an open space, 
without seats, where men meet as on the Exchange and 
transact their business. Ladies habitually receive visits 
in their boxes, and play cards and drink coffee. Finally 
(and worst of all) there are, in the fourth tier of boxes, 
three parts where five or six boxes are thrown into one, 
and fitted up and lighted as a coffee-house, to which 
none but subscribers are admitted. These are filled with 
officers and others who drink, play and talk, often to be 
heard through all the house.) 

The orchestra is far superior to any I have met 
with. There are about seventy performers. The 
smoothness and sweetness of this great band are 
admirable ; I never heard instruments so perfectly 
together. The horns are particularly good ; the 
bassoon has a poor, unsteady tone as if the reed was 
split, which would not be tolerated with us. The 
singers to-night were a woman, an indifferent actress, 
with a clear, smooth voice, but without spirit, and a 
man, a very good actor, with a deep, well-toned bass 
voice, who sung in a chaste, fine style. The rest were 
sufficiently good — better than our second-rates. The 
recitative was accompanied by single notes of the 
violoncello only. Whether this is the custom in this 
country, or proceeded from the fancy of the composer 
of the opera or of the leader of the band, I cannot tell ; 




-Ik RICHAKI) VfAYNE, K.C.B. 
• 'at 'n th ■ possession of Mrs. Broke 

o/Gla ■ • of Sir Richard Mayne) 



1814] MILAN 121 

I liked the effect of it. The opera, composed by 
Ferdinando Paer, I did not greatly admire. There is 
nothing in it which I should desire to have. 

(Note of 1821. — My judgment of this opera ("Ag- 
ncse ") was certainly very erroneous. It has since been 
performed in London with great and well-deserved 
applause.) 

October 5ft. — To the celebrated duomo, the perfection 
of the Go thick, as St. Peter's at Rome is of the Grecian 
architecture in Italy. It is seen to great advantage 
at present, for by the order of Napoleon it has just 
undergone a thorough repair, and it was much damaged 
before. The whole building, which is in the most highly 
ornamented Gothick style, is made of white marble, 
even the roofs ; and this being newly scraped is of 
the finest colour. The outside of this magnificent 
structure is, beyond expression, elegant and light ; 
the inside is dark, heavy, and almost ugly. 

We visited next the amphitheatre erected by 
Napoleon on the plan of those of ancient times. It 
can contain 24,000 persons, as we are told, and the 
arena may be filled with water in the course of an 
hour. 

From this to the convent of Sta. Maria delle Grazie, 
to see the famous " Last Supper " of Leonardo da 
Vinci. It is at present, to all but students, a mere 
curiosity, being nearly effaced by various ill-usages. 
Unfortunately for the world, the monks chose to have 
this great work in their refectory, over a door in the 



122 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

end wall. In time it was convenient to raise the en- 
trance for some purpose or other, and this was done at 
the expense of the legs of our Saviour and the apostles, 
which were cut away. A century or two will make a 
plaistered wall look rather dirty, and, whitewashing 
being directed, the greatest painting perhaps in exist- 
ence was actually whitewashed over. It was after- 
wards scraped, and an attempt made to revive the 
colour. In 1796 the French added to its injuries by 
making a cavalry barrack of the convent, when the 
refectory became a stable. The little that remains 
of this splendid work is now preserved with care, 
and the fine prints taken from it will be sufficient to 
insure its fame for centuries to come. 

(Note. — Judging from the external marks only, as 
the picture now stands one would not think it had suffered 
from any intentional violence ; and as to the tale told 
in some books of travel, of shots having been fired at 
the heads by the French soldiers, there is no trace of any 
such thing and our conductor assured us it was untrue ; 
he said that some stones had, he believed, been thrown 
in wantonness. The truth is that this hall has been, for 
a series of years, exposed to damp and neglect, and 
at the time of the siege the water lay six or eight feet 
deep in it. This alone was, I should imagine, sufficient 
to reduce the painting to its actual state ; for it is not, 
properly speaking, a fresco painting, but an oil painting 
on plaister.) 

To the Palace of Arts and Sciences. These are 



i8i4] MILAN 123 

fine large rooms filled with the paintings of celebrated 
masters, and a gallery and rooms containing fresco 
paintings brought together from different parts. They 
are cut out of the wall by an ingenious process by 
which the French hoped to be able to transport the 
most valuable treasures of Italy to Paris ; but al- 
though it succeeds perfectly on a small scale, yet 
with fresco paintings of a large size (which all the 
valuable ones are) the attempt would be hopeless. 
None of those here are above five or six feet in length. 
In this building, formerly a convent, is the observa- 
tory. There are three astronomy professors. The 
instruments are numerous and remarkably fine ; our 
conductor told us of an achromatick refracting tele- 
scope, made in Germany, of a foot diameter ; he 
assured us that he had seen it himself. 

In the evening to the opera. I find that I was 
singularly fortunate in seeing the house last night. 
It was illuminated on account of the Emperor Francis's 
birthday, and on common nights the looking-glass 
pannels are covered and the house is quite dark. 
This causes a gloomy appearance, but the stage is seen 
to infinite advantage. Many parties had lights in 
their boxes where they received visits, drank coffee, 
and played cards. The opera composed by Pietro 
Generali. I have seldom heard more commonplace 
musick ; there was scarcely a passage that did not 
appear familiar to me. Galli, the bass whom I heard last 
night, sung in this piece and admirably well. Besides 



124 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

those whom I had heard before, there was a female 
that sung very well, but with indifferent execution, 
and a man with the best counter tenor I have heard, 
who sung in a nice style ; but the house is a bad one 
for hearing and he is not well able to fill it ; nor, in- 
deed, are the others, Galli alone excepted, not a note 
of whose singing is lost. From all these singers, in 
the course of two operas, I have not heard one attempt 
at a shake. A violoncello solo introducing a song 
was, to my surprise, very indifferently performed ; 
however, a violin solo of some difficulty was beauti- 
fully executed by Rolla, the leader. The noise in the 
pit intolerable. 

6th. — Last night it began to rain, and has continued 
at intervals all day. Now, at nine o'clock at night, 
it pours furiously, and we are uncertain whether the 
autumnal rains may not be setting in ; if it is so, we 
shall probably be detained a fortnight here. On 
enquiry we were told that we need not mind the rains, 
and accordingly determined to proceed on our journey 
to-morrow. Our passports were examined, and leave 
given us to travel Bologna-wards. 

We visited several booksellers' shops. There is 
every appearance of books being in demand, but there 
is no shop so large or so well supplied as at Geneva. 
I observed translations of many English works; 
amongst others, of Goldsmith's Rome. A translation 
of Othello, completing a set of eight of Shakespeare's 
tragedies, has just been published here. 



i8i4] MILAN 125 

Milan is a large open town, the fortifications having 
been entirely destroyed by order of Napoleon. The 
streets are, in general, narrow and dark, but more 
convenient for foot passengers than those of Paris. 
They have two lines of flag-way, not raised but in- 
serted into the pavement, on which passengers may 
rest their feet when there is no carriage in the way. 
The flags are so placed that a carriage driving in the 
middle of the street has both its wheels resting on 
them. Most persons living in the town talk French. 
Musick seems in great favour. Numerous parties 
of strolling performers are met in all parts of the town, 
the instruments being generally guitar, violoncello, 
and violins, with two or three singers accompanying 
them. These bands do not play common tunes, but 
either overtures or opera musick, with great spirit 
and no incorrect expression. 



CHAPTER VII 
MILAN TO FLORENCE 

Milan to Piacenza. — October yth. 

GOT off from this at half-past eight. The 
whole drive of to-day is one of the most 
uninteresting I ever took. The country is 
a dead flat, intersected by large drains along 
which poplars and sallows grow luxuriantly, and so 
close that it is impossible to see much more than a 
hundred yards from the road on either side. 

At Piacenza we crossed the Po in boats. The mode 
of passing over the bridge differs here from the last. 
A large boat is moored in the center of the river, at a 
considerable distance above the ferry ; a rope, fas- 
tened to this, is suspended over the masts of six other 
boats at equal distances from each other, to keep it 
out of the water, and then attached to the bridge. 
The bridge describes a segment of a circle across 
the river, moving round the fixed boat as a center, 
and a strong current rushing against the side, which 
becomes a plane inclined to it when once pushed 
from the land, acts indifferently from either side and 
gives little or no trouble to the guides. It may give 

126 



i8i 4 ] MILAN TO FLORENCE 127 

some idea of the size of this boat, or raft, or bridge 
as it is called here, that as we arrived there had just 
passed over on it, at the same time, a post-chaise, a gig, 
and two carts, with all their horses. 

On reaching the opposite side we stumbled on a 
custom-house where the officers, with much civility, 
told us it was absolutely necessary that we should 
suffer them to faire ime petite visite to our luggage. 
I wished to decline the visit, and offered money, but 
it was not taken and we were obliged to submit. 
Our trunks were rigorously inspected on the roadside, 
in the midst of a crowd of idlers curious to see what 
an Englishman's luggage consisted of. Some arti- 
ficial flowers of Susan's created no small difficulty, 
as, also, a pair of new flannel socks, of whose legality 
the soldier entertained some doubts. In examining 
my portmanteau, he enquired whether a shirt was 
new, because it happened to be better washed than 
the rest ; and having already opened one of an old 
pair of boots, he insisted on seeing if the other was 
new. After a vexatious delay we at length escaped 
from these judicious searchers. I complained to one 
of them that this was the second visit his Sardinian 
Majesty had made to our trunks, but he informed 
me that we are now in the dominions of Maria 
Louisa. She and her august father have the only 
honest officers we have met. 

Piacenza to Parma. — 8th. — Left Piacenza early. At 
the gates, entering and leaving towns, we are always 



128 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

now asked our names, quality, last residence, and next 
destination. At every inn, too, we write the same. 

A postilion to-day, after we had given him half-a- 
franc above the tariff, asked more, and when we re- 
fused told us we had passed a bridge for which he was 
to take back payment, one franc. We gave this, and 
I asked him how it happened that in France all the 
postilions were satisfied with their regulated fare, and 
in Italy all discontented. Among other reasons, he 
said it was thought reasonable that we should pay 
high, as it was now twenty years since the English 
soldi had been seen in Italy. At the next post we 
discovered (what we might have guessed) that there 
had been no bridge except in the inventive brain of 
our postilion. 

From Parma to Piacenza the country is extremely 
rich and of a high style of cultivated beauty. The 
Apennines seen extending to our right ; the road 
excellent. Reached Parma very early and had the 
hardest bargaining at our inn that I have experienced ; 
to some purpose, however, for I reduced them, franc 
by franc, from thirty-three to twenty. 

Dressed and walked about the town. Nothing 
handsome ; the streets are, in general, grown over 
with grass as if the town was uninhabited ; the great 
palaces are converted into barracks or other publick 
buildings. 

We had been led to suppose that the great theatre 
of Parma, so much talked of, was modern and in 



i*i 4 ] MILAN TO FLORENCE 129 

actual use for representations. It is, on the contrary, 
of two hundred years' standing and nearly in ruins. 
The plan of it is nearly like that of the ancient theatres, 
and it is said to contain 9000 spectators. However 
that may be, it does not look so large as la Scala at 
Milan, and I am certain it is not so lofty. Under the 
same roof is the Academy of Arts and Sciences, where 
are some good statues and many paintings — prin- 
cipally copies, or of late date. 

A man from whom I had enquired the way to the 
theatre accompanied us to see it and the paintings. 
Though of the very lowest class of people, he seemed 
well acquainted with everything respecting the theatre, 
as well as with the paintings and their authors. He 
thanked us for having given him an opportunity of 
revisiting them ; and upon my enquiry was he an 
admirer of the arts, he answered, " 0, molto, molto ! 
mi fa piacere tutto questo mi fa gran piacere" At 
parting I gave him half-a-franc ; he seemed to think 
he ought not to accept it, but he was an Italian and 
could not resist. 

Parma to Modena. — gth. — Off at half-past eight. 
This being Sunday, we had an opportunity of seeing 
the peasantry in their best dresses. They are better 
cloathed than under the Alps. The men wear jacket 
and breeches of light brown or green cloth, trimmed 
and embroidered with coloured tape, and a waistcoat 
of check or stuff. Many, especially in the towns, 
have a large cloak, the end of which is gathered up 



130 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

from the right side and thrown over the left arm. 
Sunday seems to be a kind of market-day, when the 
country people crowd into the town to sell their goods 
or make their purchases. At a post-house we saw 
a postilion with a jacket greatly embroidered and 
loose pink trowsers ; his tucker was carefully displayed 
and his breast bare. He had ear-rings, two rows of 
coral round his neck and rings on his fingers, and his 
hat was ornamented with feathers and flowers. The 
dress of the women in this part of the country is plain. 
A few wear a pretty cloth jacket and ribbands through 
the hair. 

The country is a dead flat, but beautifully cultivated. 
It is all covered with elm or other trees, planted in 
rows, with vines curling round them and hanging in 
festoons from tree to tree. The verdure at this time 
of year is delightful — chiefly pasturage for the ex- 
tensive herds of cows, this being " the happy country 
where huge cheeses grow." 

Arrived at Modena at half-past two o'clock, and 
made marche from twenty-eight to twenty francs ; 
then took a walk. The town is like the others through 
which we have passed, except that it has colonnades 
at each side of the principal streets ; these are heavy- 
looking, but extremely convenient in rain and agree- 
able in sunshine. The only handsome building is 
the ducal palace. As at Parma and Reggio, grass is 
growing in the streets and the town looks deserted. 
In every Italian town we have seen, the lower windows 



1 8 1 4 ] MILAN TO FLORENCE 131 

of the houses, and even of the palaces, are covered 
with iron grating, which gives to the large buildings 
the character of a gaol. 

We entered several churches ; in two of them service 
was going on, with the organ. In another, a man was 
preaching. Two rows of children, about six feet from 
each other, sat on forms extending from the master 
altar down the aisle. At the end of the forms an iron 
railing was placed across, and in the intermediate space 
between the children the preacher walked quickly up 
and down, from the foot of the altar to the railing. 
He spoke in a loud, monotonous voice, using vehement 
action with one hand only. His discourse ended, 
he took off his cap and bowed to the people. As he 
retired, the children eagerly pressed forward, seizing 
his hand and kissing it. The churches are not hand- 
some, and there is little worth seeing at Modena. 
Hither Brutus retired after the murder of Caesar. 

Dinner good ; wine not drinkable. Our providence, 
however, had carried a few bottles from Milan to meet 
such a case. Rooms large, bare and cold-looking. 

We had to-day at least twenty demands from the 
custom-house robbers. The form of their application 
is always : " Signor, niente per la dogana ? " in an 
enquiring voice. I generally answer, " Niente, Signor" 
upon which they bow and retire. Some of the poor 
devils look so starved that we have not the heart to 
refuse them. 

loth. — Rose very early, visited a church, and 



132 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

walked on the walls before breakfast. On my return 
I encountered a procession going to some church, with 
lighted tapers, banners, etc. As the morning was 
sharp, I did not much relish kneeling in the dirt with 
my hat off, and looked round to see whether there 
might not be some dissenter, as in France ; but 
finding none I was forced to join with the rest. 

The last two mornings there has been a new demand 
by a man who styles himself a " petit gargon" and 
wants money for doing some invisible service for us, 
in the performance of which we have never laid our 
eyes on him till the moment of his demand. 

Modena to Bologna. — Heavy rain, from the time we 
left Modena, prevented our enjoying the view of 
country, which is, I am sure, very fine. 

Our rooms are remarkably neat and (brick floors, 
the custom of the country, excepted) comfortable. 

The town is handsomer than the others we have 
seen, both in general appearance and in buildings. 
There are colonnades as at Modena, but handsomer 
and in more of the streets. By means of these Charles 
and I walked about the town in spite of violent rain. 
A strolling band of two violins and a violoncello, with 
a female singer, played under our windows. The 
woman sung several opera songs, but indifferently. 
The performance of these bands is really very pleasing ; 
with all their defects, there is in their playing a certain 
style and correctness of expression the attainment of 
which would cost an English gentleman infinite pains. 



i8i 4 ] MILAN TO FLORENCE 133 

In our journey we encountered a dogana every five 
miles and actually suffered to the extent of six francs. 
At dinner to-day, amongst other things, two non- 
descripts resembling dried raspberry jam, but on a 
closer inspection discovered to be thin hollow shapes 
of a substance like dirty smoaked barley-sugar, 
powdered over with hay seeds. Dessert of reasonable 
pears, unreasonable apples, good grapes, and cheese. 

nth. — A lovely morning after yesterday's rain. 
We engaged a genteel valet de place to escort us, and 
set out immediately after breakfast to inspect the 
town and its curiosities. To the church of S. Pet- 
ronius, remarkable for the celebrated meridian of 
Cassini. To the Palazzo Marescalchi, filled with 
pictures, many of them of inestimable value. Some 
of the rooms in this palace surpass all that I have seen 
in the taste with which they are fitted up, and the 
beauty of the furniture and ornaments. 

To the Academy of Arts and Sciences, a museum 
of considerable extent, and remarkable for a curious 
and beautiful arrangement of instruments of science. 
All these are separately arranged according to the 
science to which they belong, in chronological order 
from the earliest times to the very latest inventions. 
There is a department of midwifery where the models 
are the most complete in existence. It must be most 
valuable for students, but it is in the highest style of 
Continental indelicacy to make such a thing a pub- 
lick exhibition to ladies and gentlemen visiting the 



134 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

Academy. The guide through this academy was a 
gentlemanlike, well-informed person. I asked him 
about Sir H. Davy, who had been here. He imme- 
diately exclaimed, "Ah, voila Vhomme du siecle" and 
talked of him with the greatest enthusiasm. 

We next attempted to see the palace Zambeccari, 
which contains the finest gallery of paintings in 
Bologna, but the conductor was unfortunately out of 
the way and we were disappointed. We then proceeded 
to the palace Tanari. While we were waiting for the 
keys, the son of Tanari, a young ecclesiastick, came 
out and accosted our valet with great familiarity, 
the latter introducing him to me as " le fits du fnaitre" 
I expressed my regret at not having more acquaintance 
with his language (for he could not speak French), 
to which he replied that Italian was easily acquired, 
and after some civil remarks he took his leave of us. 
There are many fine paintings in this collection, 
mostly by the Caraccis, with some of Guido and 
others. There is a separate room with a great many 
good sketches, amongst others the head of Christ, the 
finished painting of which we saw in the Louvre. 

We have seen to-day more clearly than ever what, 
since our first entrance into Italy, we have felt fully 
persuaded of, that excepting a few great paintings 
known to all the world, the collected treasures of the 
Louvre are not to be missed from Italy ; nay, Bologna 
alone could, I am confident, fill the Louvre twice over. 
I say nothing of the fresco paintings, the real treasures 



i8i 4 ] MILAN TO FLORENCE 135 

of Italy, of which no plunderer but Time himself can 
deprive her. The best collection in the town, accident 
prevented our seeing ; but in a few churches and 
private palaces we have passed over paintings of the 
highest class, by the Caraccis, Guido, Parmegiano, 
Coreggio, Domenichino and others, which might well 
occupy our time for weeks to come. In the Tanari 
palace there is a curiosity in the fine arts, such as 
Italy alone could think of exhibiting. This is a set 
of fire-irons with ornamented heads, the work of 
Giovanni di Bologna, a celebrated architect and 
sculptor. 

The famous Annunciation of Ludovico Caracci, in 
the Duomo, disappointed me. It is esteemed his 
masterpiece, but the same subject by Guido, in the 
Louvre, has left a more pleasing impression on my 
mind. I am aware that fresco and oil painting ought 
not, properly, to be compared together at all, and 
particularly not by me, who am unused to fresco. 
Lud. Caracci seems to be considered, here, superior 
to the two others, and indeed to everyone else. We 
were twice assured that he was the first of all the 
painters. 

The day fine, with a charming blue sky, cold air and 
sharp wind. We proceed on our way to Florence to- 
morrow. 

Bologna to Filigare. — 12th. — Off at half-past eight 
o'clock. 

To our surprise, we have found our journey to-day 



136 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

more fatiguing and more laborious than the passage 
of the Simplon. In one stage, of a post and a half, 
we were obliged to take oxen four times for the ascent 
of mountain. When the postilion is coming to the 
foot of a mountain he cracks his whip, shouts, and 
makes every other noise in his power to give notice to 
the ox-driver, who appears, shortly after, waiting with 
his pair of beasts. They are harnessed before the 
horses, by a rope fastened to the extremity of the 
pole. At the next stage, they insisted on giving us 
four horses. I complained and scolded and threatened, 
but in vain ; they went on harnessing without paying 
the smallest attention to me. The postmaster, in- 
deed, did once observe that we should have oxen at 
the mountain, besides ; but I swore so violently that, 
if we were forced to take oxen, I would pay neither 
horse nor postilion that the attempt was not made. 

There is often something very peculiar in the dis- 
play of Italian passions. The impetuosity of feeling 
among this people is quite extravagant, and the 
violence of their gestures, on the slightest occasions, 
must frequently astonish the English traveller. I 
have seen a little difference, about the tying of a trunk 
or the putting on of a rope, give birth to gesture and 
expression of countenance which, until now, I had 
always thought over-acted on the Italian stage. On 
these occasions their actions do not, I am sure, in- 
dicate the same degree of internal feeling that would 
be felt among us to be expressed. It is their manner 



i8i 4 ] MILAN TO FLORENCE 137 

and nothing else ; and, like children quickly irritated, 
they are as quickly calmed. A postilion to-day was 
discontented, as they all are, with his payment. He 
stood, for some time, very coolly asking for more ; then, 
suddenly exclaiming : " Sanguc della Madonna ! sangue 
d'Iddio i n he dashed the money violently on the 
ground — and presently afterwards quietly picked it 
up and retired. The insolence of these people is 
extreme, and sometimes entertaining. At one post, 
when the postmaster insisted on our taking oxen, I 
demanded to look at the tariff, and not finding a word 
about oxen, told him I would not take them as they 
were not mentioned in it. " Very well," says he, 
"you'll take six horses, then, for they are mentioned 
in it." I said I would take neither one nor the other. 
His answer was, with the most provoking sang-froid, 
" You will indeed, if you choose to go to Florence, for 
if you don't you must stay here " ; and he was actually 
going to add another pair of horses, till I compounded 
with him and agreed to take the beef. There is no law 
in the mountains, especially for a stranger and under 
a provisional government. At the same post an ostler 
demanded something for the " maitre d'ecurie " ; 
hoping, I suppose, to be paid in proportion to the 
magnificence of his name ; and when I gave him what 
had fully satisfied all the others on the road, he gave 
it back with a smile of contempt and said it was not 
worth taking. I took him at his word and repocketed 
the sous — to his surprise, I fancy. At the next post, 



138 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

the driver requested something to bring back to him, 
which I had great satisfaction in refusing. 

That part of the Apennines through which we drove 
to-day makes a dreadfully tiresome journey ; but the 
scenery, though inferior in grandeur to that of the 
Alps, is, in general, fine. From one spot there is a 
view of prodigious extent as far as the eye can reach 
on every side. It is said that, on a clear day, thence 
may be seen Milan, the Po, and the Adriatick. The 
road is excellent and, from the composition of the 
mountain, easily cut and kept in repair. Some of 
the bridges and walls are quite Simplon-ish. 

We had been directed to sleep at Covigliajo, and in- 
deed told that it was the only place between Bologna 
and Florence where it was possible to sleep. Dark- 
ness, however, overtook us at Filigare, a post from 
our destination, and as night travelling is, by all, 
represented to be dangerous, we resolved if possible 
to stop here. I went into the post-house, and found 
two good beds and promise of a good supper ; and 
in a few minutes we had a cheerful fire of wood blazing 
on the hearth. In this little solitary place, on one 
of the most dreary spots in the Apennines, we had a 
sitting-room and two bedchambers, all rough, to be 
sure, and in cabin style, but clean, neatly arranged, 
and really comfortable. Our supper was a rice soup, 
bit of boiled beef, two fowls, a turkey, and, afterwards, 
another fowl (of what species I could not discover), 
roasted and garnished with little birds : the whole 



i8i 4 ] MILAN TO FLORENCE 139 

dinner-service neat, with clean cloth and napkins. 
This is the first place in which we have been, at night, 
without someone to talk French to us. 

A little incident occurred to me here, which deserves 
to be mentioned only because the character of it is 
suited to a lonely house amidst the wildest scenery 
of the Apennines. In my bedchamber hung a large 
full-length portrait. On first going into the room I 
had looked at this and held the candle up to it, with- 
out perceiving in it anything remarkable ; but, in 
the course of my undressing, I happened to walk 
across the room with the candle in my hand and, 
raising my eyes, I thought the eyes of the picture 
suddenly brightened, moved, and then became dark 
as before. My pistols lay loaded on the table and, 
consequently, I had no cause for alarm and passed 
quietly across the room ; but so thoroughly was I 
persuaded that the eyes had really changed their 
appearance, and that my fancy had not been in any 
way operated upon, that I resolved to examine the 
picture more closely. I therefore crossed the room 
as I had done at first, but could perceive no alteration 
in the appearance of the eyes, as before. This sur- 
prised me now a good deal ; but, after a little reflection, 
I took up the candle again, and once more repeated the 
experiment, which at length cleared up the mystery. 
The eyes of the picture were cut out and, when the 
candle was held opposite to it, the light was reflected 
from the white wall behind the eyes, giving to them 



140 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

the appearance of life and motion ; while, viewed 
from every other situation or under different circum- 
stances, the darkness from behind made them corre- 
spond exactly to the colour of the picture. 

In the morning, our breakfast was well supplied, 
and when we asked for the bill we were desired to give 
whatever we pleased for breakfast, which they did not 
know how much to charge for. We gave three francs, 
and two to our attendant, a most modest, nice-looking 
girl, with which they were more than satisfied. 

Filigare to Florence. — 13th. — About the middle of 
the day we were overtaken by an English gentleman 
and his daughters, in a chaise. He requested that I 
would give him permission to pass us, as he was in 
a desperate hurry, which I did. While we conversed 
at the post-house he told me that this was but the four- 
teenth day since he landed at Calais, and that he ex- 
pected to reach Pisa, his ultimate destination, to-night. 
The cause of this outrageous expedition he did not 
acquaint me with ; but it ought to have been nothing 
less than absolute necessity. One of his daughters, 
a young girl, was so exhausted that she lay motionless 
in the carriage, and her father apprehended that she 
had caught a fever. 

Two posts from Florence we found a new regulation 
compelling us to take four horses and two postilions. 
I had a great battle with the postmaster on the con- 
struction of the tariff, but was defeated ingloriously. 
It is so worded that, as I understand it, the number 



1 8 1 4 ] MILAN TO FLORENCE 141 

of horses is absolutely at the discretion of the post- 
master himself. 

From about six miles there is a noble view of Flor- 
ence and the surrounding country, all studded with 
villas and covered with vines, figs, and olives, the 
first we have seen. The town is beautifully situated 
in a vale, about four miles in breadth, through the 
middle of which flows the Arno. 

About five o'clock entered the city of the Medici. 
We are at " The Arms of England," kept by Schneider. 
We have a good, handsomely furnished sitting-room 
and two good bedrooms ; for these we pay ten francs 
a day. Dinner, the best and the most English we 
have got anywhere ; always two, and sometimes three, 
waiters in the room — to our great annoyance, par- 
ticularly as we do not know how to eat some of their 
dishes. 



CHAPTER VIII 
FLORENCE 

THIS hotel is very pleasantly situated on the 
Quay.* The establishment is great, and in 
all respects perfectly well conducted. Mr. 
Schneider is a clever, active man who has 
travelled a great deal, speaks French, Italian, German, 
and English, understands the character and manners 
of the several nations, and knows how to make his 
hotel agreeable to them all. 

To-day we met two pilgrims on the road. Their 
dress was a coarse light-brown garment made of stuff, 
fastened round the waist by a broad belt, buckled ; 
from this hung their beads and cross. They wore a 
kind of wooden sandals, but their legs, neck, and head 
were uncovered. They walked fast, and bowed very 
politely to us. 

October iqth. — To see work in alabaster, for which 
Florence is famous. The fineness and delicacy of the 
carving are extreme, and the copies of remarkable 
statues admirable. 

To the church of St. Lorenzo. In the sacristy are 

* Lungarno Soderini. 



142 



i8i4] FLORENCE 143 

the three famous monuments of the Medici by M. 
Angelo. Adjoining to this building is the Royal 
Chapel of the Medici. This work, begun by the first 
Ferdinand and carried on, at an enormous expense, 
by his successors for the space of 150 years, is not 
more than half finished. The walls are incrusted 
with the most valuable marbles and precious stones : 
there are large cushions, wholly composed of precious 
stones. The richness and magnificence of the parts, 
in detail, are wonderful, but the general effect would 
never have been handsome. The expense of com- 
pleting it is calculated at six millions of crowns. 

While we were here, it began to rain so violently 
that we were obliged to send for a carriage and return 
home. It cleared up afterwards, and I walked through 
the town and examined the baptistery in front of the 
Duomo. The bronze gate of this baptistery is of 
such exquisite workmanship that it was the constant 
study of M. Angelo, who said it was worthy to be 
made the gate of heaven. The Duomo itself is a vast 
building, heavy and dark inside ; the cupola is of 
an ugly form. The outside of the building is in a very 
strange taste : the materials are three kinds of marble, 
red, white, and black, laid alternately, with perfect 
regularity. 

In this town one ought to be cautious of saying 
that anything is not handsome, where palaces, churches, 
columns, and statues are the work of M. Angelo, his 
immediate scholars, and other distinguished artists. 



144 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

In one piazza through which I passed there is an 
equestrian statue of Cosmo ist, with others, by Giov. 
di Bologna, and several statues of the greatest value 
by M. Angelo, Rossi, and Bandinelli. 

In the evening I went to the opera. The theatre 
in which they are performing at present is small but 
handsome. There are eighty boxes, each containing 
three persons in front. The orchestra, of twenty-four 
performers, good but always too loud for the voices ; 
three double basses and only one violoncello. The 
singers are not great ; they perform an opera, however, 
sufficiently well. The first female has a harsh and, 
for some minutes, extremely disagreeable voice ; her 
execution and powers great ; her cork-cutting notes, 
astonishingly clear and sweet, are of course con- 
tinually exhibited. A man, the most pleasing tenor 
I have heard since Tramezzani. The audience is 
noisy and inattentive ; and whenever a favourite air 
is singing, you are sure to have two or three amateurs 
about you, singing almost as loud as the performer. 
The ballet good, but far more indecent than London, 
Paris, or Milan. The turn of this ballet, and the 
nature of the indecency exhibited in it, will give some 
notion of the taste of this people, as it is displayed 
in their most trifling amusements and amidst the 
most corrupt and depraved morals. 

The piece is called " II Pittore Amoroso." A great 
prince is going to be married, and brings his mistress 
to the house of a painter to have her portrait drawn. 



i8i4] FLORENCE 145 

In the execution of his task, the painter becomes 
enamoured of the lady and she of him : he declares 
his passion ; they rush into each other's arms. The 
prince enters and discovers them and, after a little 
anger, wisely, as well as generously, resigns his mistress 
to the favoured lover. Such is the plot ; the acting 
is all between the painter and the lady. They are left 
alone : he begins to draw, and to be in love, to soft 
musick. He places her in the most captivating atti- 
tudes till, at length, it becomes requisite to study 
more accurately the beauties of her person and, 
assisted by little Cupids who appear at her call, she 
gradually undresses, and walks forth in the unadorned 
simplicity of a muslin chemise. Thus clad, she mounts 
pedestals, reposes on couches, and gives a living warm 
representation of those sculptured and painted Venuses 
which, even on canvas or in stone, never fail to raise 
a blush upon the unpractised cheek. The last ex- 
hibition was of the Medicean Venus standing on a high 
pedestal, supported by Cupids. It is evident that such 
an exhibition could not often find a lady capable of 
giving it effect ; but the first dancer here, for whom 
it was struck out, is a girl vying in form with the 
originals themselves, and perfectly graceful in her action. 

15th. — Last night's rain has changed our gentle Arno 
from a quiet, peaceable stream into a roaring torrent. 

We set out early with our valet de place, an old man 
who professes to talk English. This he accomplishes 
by Italianising all the words that are like English, 



146 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

using many genuine Italian words and some whole 
French sentences. 

To the Florentine gallery. We did not leave the 
corridors to-day. They contain some paintings of the 
earliest of the Italian school, and several fine statues 
— amongst others a copy of the Laocoon by Bandinelli, 
much admired, but injured by an accidental fire. 
There is a valuable series of busts of the Roman 
Emperors. The Julius Caesar is totally different from 
any that I have ever seen. 

In the church of S. Croix are the tombs of Michael 
Angelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Aretino, and Victor 
Alfieri. The tomb of Michael Angelo is singular, in 
a combination of sculpture and painting ; it may be 
appropriate, but the effect is not good. 

The church of Santo Spirito : the architecture ex- 
cellent, by Brunelleschi. The burying-ground of the 
Bonaparte family is shewn here. In the wall of one of 
the cloisters of the adjacent convent is this inscription, 
roughly carved on a square stone : " De Benedetto e 
di Giovani Buonaparte e sua descendente." I have taken 
it down, letter for letter, as it stands ; there is no date. 

While we were in a bookseller's shop a carriage 
drove to the door with a lady and gentleman in it. 
The lady was Mrs. Wyndham, the divorced wife of 
Mr. W., formerly ambassador here. Our valet, after 
giving us this information, added, " she has got a very 

handsome cicisbeo now, the chevalier " (he was 

in attendance at the time). 



i8i4] FLORENCE 147 

An entertainment at the theatre was advertised for 
this evening : " Accademia di Poesia Extemporanea 
cJii data Filippo Pistrucci, etc." I was anxious to 
witness this exhibition, peculiar to the Italians, in a 
town celebrated for its improvisatori, and accordingly 
went. The orchestra was complete, as for an opera, 
the house full. On the stage a table was prepared 
with candles, a decanter of water and large glass. 
Presently a stage servant came in, and receiving from 
persons in the pit and orchestra slips of paper with 
different subjects for the exercise of the poet's in- 
vention, laid them on the table. In a few minutes 
afterwards Pistrucci himself entered, dressed in white 
small-clothes, waistcoat and stockings, blue coat and 
black gloves. He first read aloud all the subjects 
which had been given in ; then came forward, gave a 
parcel of musick into the orchestra and, after a little 
consideration, desired them to play No. 5. To 
this he sung a kind of exordium, going through (as 
he took them at random off the table) all the subjects, 
and saying a few words on each. When this was 
done he took up one paper, and having read out the 
subject, after a few moments' deliberation ordered 
a certain number, and commenced as before. This he 
did with two. The third, which was on the death of 
Cicero, with an order to take the side against the con- 
duct of the Orator, was without any accompaniment, 
and in the high style of tragedy declamation. To this 
succeeded five more, accompanied. The only subjects 



148 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

I can recollect were " Brutus," " Acis and Galatea," 
and " Praise of the reigning house of Tuscany." In 
one the musick changed so as to require four or five 
different kinds of metre. The audience were per- 
fectly attentive, and all seemed highly gratified with 
the entertainment. 

I forgot to mention that, the morning after our 
arrival here, a copy of Italian verses was sent up to 
us from a bard who called himself " The Academician 
and Poet, Angel Schiantarelli." They were addressed 
to " The most distinct and illustrious noble gentleman 
Mr. Charles Mayne, England and company, on the 
auspicious arrival in Florence." An English transla- 
tion on the opposite page informed us that " The 
Arno is uncommonly festive and gay and replete with 
splendor on seeing itself distinguished with the honor 
of our gracious company." There were other passages 
no less sublime. Gray observes that the last line 
in an elegy, above all, ought to shine, or at least 
sparkle. Our poet had made the same observa- 
tion, and his last was a hint to our well-known 
generosity. 

16th. — Sunday. — There was a grand service and 
thanksgiving for the return of the present Duke, 
celebrated at the church of S. Firenze. The crowd 
was great ; a number of candles lighting, and prepara- 
tion for a grand illumination at six o'clock, when the 
benediction was to be pronounced. 

lyth. — To the gallery and through the chambers 




LADY MAYNE 
a photograph by If. Ifanfstaengl. Dresden, in the possession of 
Mrs. Broke 



1814I FLORENCE 149 

of paintings where, also, the most valuable pieces of 
sculpture are kept. In one apartment, in which the 
choicest sculptures and the finest paintings are assem- 
bled, is found the " Venus " of Canova, a work that 
rivals the best productions of the ancient masters. 
The figure is partly covered with drapery ; and in 
this, as well as in the size and attitude, differs from 
the Venus de Medici, whose place it now supplies in 
this gallery. 

I will not make any comparison between the Floren- 
tine gallery and that of the Louvre ; both are in- 
estimably rich ; but in one point Florence sinks far 
below Paris. Here the chambers are locked and 
guides attend, keys in hand, to open and conduct you 
through them. True, they are not troublesome guides, 
and will allow you to take your time ; moreover, they 
are expressly forbidden to take money ; but still, 
they are guides, and they will take money whenever 
it is offered. 

We afterwards went to the Duomo, and ascended 
to the top of the cupola. From the outside, the view 
of the surrounding scenery is beautiful. One of the 
galleries in the ascent leads close to the painting of 
the cupola. They were chaunting the vespers below, 
and the voices, blended with the rich tones of the organ, 
mounted up to us and produced a most noble effect 
as we stood here. This organ was esteemed by Burney 
the finest he had ever heard. 

iSth. — Walked about the town and outside part of 



150 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

the walls. The country immediately round the city 
was planted and greatly beautified by Leopold. 

The church of S. Maria Novella, by Brunelleschi, 
is remarkable for the perfection of its architec- 
ture. Michael Angelo always called it " his wife 
Maria." 

We leave this to-morrow, and the remembrance of 
our posting from Bologna is so fresh that we have 
resolved to make a trial of vetturino. It seems to be 
the usual mode of travelling in this country, and if 
the conductor prove civil and honest, and all go on 
well, we shall avoid all quarrelling with drivers and 
innkeepers, ostlers and postmasters. The expense is 
nearly the same as posting by the manner in which 
we make our agreement, reserving to ourselves a right 
of stopping where we please, and for any time we 
please. We also have our own carriage, which de- 
prives our conductor of all chance of company re- 
turning. The custom of the native travellers (which 
some strangers adopt) is to engage a man to carry 
them from one town to another, without further 
terms ; he receives them as any bale of goods, takes 
his own time, and chooses his own hours. 

We pay 346 francs to Rome, the journey to be 
performed in five days and a half, unless we prefer 
delay. We are not to set out before seven in the 
morning, nor to travel after six in the evening, except 
at our own choice. We are supplied with milk, bread, 
and butter for breakfast, and a regular meal in the 



i8i4] FLORENCE 151 

day — the best that can be had ; and, at night, with 
supper and the best lodging the place may afford. 

At the opera, the same as before. It is new, and 
called Carlotta and Verier. I don't know how it is 
brought about, but all the parties are finally happy. 
The musick is very light ; one duet is greatly admired, 
but the rest seems to me common, with the exception 
of the overture, which is entirely unlike anything that 
I have heard. 

The situation of Florence is charming, but the in- 
side of the town is heavy and gloomy. The palaces, 
built in times of civil contest, when the safety of every 
great man was endangered by the slightest political 
convulsion, are massive solid buildings that resemble 
great gaols rather than the dwellings of princes. 
They are, however, fine in their kind ; though, cer- 
tainly, nothing short of necessity could have led 
Buonarotti and his scholars into such a style. The 
finest of these palaces, as those of the Medici, the 
Ricardi, and others, are in the hands of Government. 

In describing the town as heavy and gloomy, I 
except the quay along the Arno, with its bridges ; 
and even the rest may, in bright weather, assume a 
lighter and more cheerful appearance than when I 
saw it. The churches contain fine things and would, 
if finished, be beautiful ; but there is hardly one com- 
plete. Some want a ceiling ; some a front ; some 
columns ; hardly any plan has been fully carried 
into execution. The streets are flagged with large 



152 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [1814 

irregular stones, of from two to three feet in size. 
The horses walk with perfect security on them. I 
enquired about the Medici family, and was informed 
that there are three of that house now living in Flor- 
ence, but poor and in no estimation. 



CHAPTER IX 
FLORENCE TO ROME 

Florence to Rome. — October igth. 

WE were delayed till eleven o'clock by 
our guide insisting on changing our 
shafts for a pole. In France, if you 
have a pole you must have an addi- 
tional horse ; in Italy, if you have not one, they will 
hardly take you with any number of horses. It 
rained heavily during the greater part of the day. 

At night we lay at Poggibonsi, and for the first time 
experienced the luxury of entering our inn without 
bargaining — all arrangements being made and direc- 
tions given by our conductor. 

20th. — Up at half-past four, and off at six. We 
had always known that a large stock of patience was 
to be laid in, to meet the demands of travelling by 
vetturino, but we go even more gently than our 
expectations. It absolutely does not enter into the 
plan of our mules to trot, but they walk well and we 
make about three miles an hour. 

Sienna. — At Sienna we stopped two hours to see 
the cathedral. There are many things worth seeing 

153 



154 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

in it ; the marble pavement, carved with fine work 
by Beccafumi and others ; statues by Bernini, Dona- 
tello, and Michael Angelo, and a mosaic of very large 
size, the first of this kind I have seen ; I at first mis- 
took it for a painting and could hardly believe that 
it was mosaic. Here is also the beautiful group of 
the Three Graces, dug up under or near the cathedral. 
It is a good deal injured and, unlike the other remains 
of ancient sculpture, has never been restored. 

In the library there are frescoes, said to be done by 
Raffaelle at the age of sixteen. They are the stiff est 
and worst I have seen by him, if they are really his ; 
many of the figures would rival the most ludicrous 
in the illustrations of Froissart. 

We walked through the principal parts of the town 
for half-an-hour and enjoyed the pure Siennese tongue, 
but I do not think we felt ourselves much improved 
by it. 

Slept at Buonconvento, where our entertainment 
was as usual, excepting an extra difficulty in pro- 
curing any vessel to make tea in, and that no milk 
was to be had at any price. 

2ist. — To-day we were several times obliged to take 
horses in addition to our own three mules. At one of 
these times there were four, in pairs, and one mule 
alone in front, when our driver, wishing to ascend a 
mountain bridge with spirit, established a trot. The 
bridge lay at an angle with the road, and one mule that 
had been indulging, I suppose, in a doze, ran straight 



i8i4] FLORENCE TO ROME 155 

over the battlement of the bridge, which was low. 
Fortunately, the others, instantly stopping, pulled 
him on his back into the road ; for had the traces been 
a little longer, so as to jerk and snap the cord, or else 
to permit him to fall a little more over, he would in- 
fallibly have tumbled down the precipice and been 
dashed to pieces. We were all a good deal alarmed 
at the moment, and our conductor more than any 
of us. 

In my bargain at Florence I had taken care to 
insert a special article that we were to be spared the 
bells usually hung upon the mules. We did, accord- 
ingly, set out in the most perfect silence ; but a worthy 
conductor, of the most amiable disposition, was to 
meet us at the end of our first day's journey and 
conduct us to Rome, and after we had left our inn 
with him, I perceived that we had our full appoint- 
ment of bells. In France these bells are insignificant, 
but in Italy a large one, the size of our house bell, 
is hung under the throat of each beast, and about 
twenty more, gradually decreasing in magnitude, 
are arranged along the side of his head. There is 
often added an ornament fastened to the saddle, 
precisely like what in our military bands is called 
The Turkish Bells ; and this rings worse than all the 
rest. On discovering our misfortune, we were going 
to desire our gentleman to put his bells away or 
muffle them, but when we thought of the pride he 
must experience in such a display, we relented and 



156 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

suffered them to remain. Before we reached Rome 
we were become so accustomed to their noise that 
they rung quite unheeded. 

Dined at Scala. Sufficient dinner ; brass spoons, 
and wine laid down in a Florence flask. The people 
seemed quite unused to English appearance or dress, 
and we underwent a minute examination while at 
dinner. 

This night we slept at Radicofani, on the top of a 
mountain 2470 feet high ; a rock, 600 feet in height, 
rises over the town. The inn is of prodigious size 
and extent. The French made a barrack of it, and 
stripped it of all its furniture. We ascended a great 
staircase, and passing through a long dark gallery, 
all paved, turned at last into a large dreary-looking 
chamber, without fire and almost without furniture. 
However, we conquered the obstinacy of our chimney 
that refused for some time to draw ; and when we had 
fairly established a blazing wood fire, we made our- 
selves extremely comfortable. The cameriere startled 
us by coming in and asking if we had sheets for our 
beds, but on our answering in the negative (with no 
small apprehension that we were to lie in the blankets), 
we found that the question was like the old " Who's 
here don't eat pork ? " for he instantly replied, "Very 
well, I'll put them on myself." 

22nd. — The road, everywhere on this route bad, is, 
for two posts on each side of Radicofani, absolutely 
ridiculous ; far worse than our mountain bridle-paths 



i8i 4 ] FLORENCE TO ROME 157 

in Ireland. The torrents are suffered to pass over 
the road so that it is, in fact, neither more nor less 
than the bed of a torrent. Within a short distance 
of Radicofani a great river is passed by driving down 
to the bed, and crossing several arms of the stream. 
A heavy rain makes this impassable, and travellers 
are often detained five or six days on its banks. 

Along the road we constantly met peasants of the 
lowest class with fowling-pieces, some travelling from 
one town to another, some merely out shooting ; 
everyone seemed at liberty to carry arms. I found, 
on enquiry, that a license is necessary, but all classes 
may obtain this. 

We dined at Acquapendente, the worst inn we have 
yet seen. The entrance was through a kind of court- 
yard, which was a dunghill of the worst kind. The 
bedchamber in which dinner was prepared was so 
dirty and dark and stinking that we carried the table 
out into an open gallery, looking out upon the filthy 
courtyard ; and preferred even that, with a little air. 
Yet here dinner was served in the cleanest manner ; 
two fowls and boiled eggs, with good bread, apples, 
and walnuts, though the cooking, to be sure, was 
not particularly nice. The fowls were put down with- 
out being deprived of any of their appendages except 
the feathers, the inside remaining perfect in all its 
parts. The outside, however, eat well enough to 
those who had not a squeamish stomach. 

About three miles from Acquapendente, we were 



158 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

overtaken by a woman riding d califorchon, dressed 
with black hat and feathers, her petticoats fastened 
up round her waist, good pantaloons, large shoes, 
and spurs which she plied most manfully. She asked 
some questions of our guide, who told us that she 
was the innkeeper, who had been robbed by some 
traveller of fifteen crowns, and that she was in search 
of him. We afterwards met her returning from a 
fruitless search. 

23rd. — Slept at Montefiascone, on the lake Vico. 
Up before four o'clock. We met, this morning, about 
a dozen peasants on the road, all dressed in goat-skins, 
pantaloons or breeches, waistcoat and jacket ; some 
wore a frock-coat instead of the jacket. Since we 
have been in Italy beggars have been scarce except 
at Reggio, until to-day when, several times along 
the road, decent-looking, well-dressed persons followed 
us to ask charity. 

In passing through Viterbo, a considerable town, 
we had a good opportunity of seeing the people assem- 
bled in their Sunday dresses. That of the women is 
fanciful and pretty, but with too many bright colours. 
The most striking part of the dress of the men is a 
large mantle or cloak thrown over the shoulders and 
falling in large folds to the feet. They generally gather 
it up from the right side, and throw it back in a very 
graceful manner over the left arm and shoulder ; it 
is made of dark cloth. The rest of their dress is made 
of light brown or green cloth. The breeches some- 



1 8 1 4 ] FLORENCE TO ROME 159 

times light blue, the whole ornamented with coloured 
tape and ribbands and coloured strings at the knees. 
They wear large silver or plated shoe-buckles, that 
cover the foot down to the ground at each side. Their 
hair hangs in ringlets at the sides, and is gathered 
into a net of green silk behind. The hat, worn very 
much at the side of the head, is ornamented with 
ribbands and flowers. 

We dined at Ronciglione. When we were seated at 
dinner I wanted a knife, and called to our attendant. 
The girl immediately put her hand in her pocket, 
searched for some time, and then produced a clasp 
knife, which she opened and handed to me. 

Slept at Monterosi. A party of four gentlemen and 
a lady, travelling by vetturino from Rome, supped 
at the same table with us. One of the gentlemen 
spoke a little English. Our bedchambers were off 
the saloon, and mine was divided from that in which 
this lady w r as to sleep by a very thin partition. She 
went into the room alone, and as soon as she was 

in bed called out " Signor ! " and then, " you 

may come in now." Tw t o gentlemen accordingly 
went in, undressed, and lay down ; and then, by the 
conversation that followed, I discovered that these 
people were, before that day, utter strangers to each 
other. They had met for the first time in the coach, 
and the gentlemen did not know in what part of Italy 
the lady resided. 

At breakfast we were, as usual, without milk. We 



i6o THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

have everywhere had difficulty in procuring any 
vessel in which we could contrive to make tea, but 
here the teapot brought up was a flat broad saucepan, 
and the kettle a large soup-tureen. I asked the man 
who attended how I was to get the water out of the 
tureen, which was remarkably deep and not full. He 
saw no difficulty : I was to lift up the water with a 
glass tumbler — and, indeed, there was no fear of scald- 
ing my fingers. However, I prevailed upon him to 
boil the water again and put it into a jug. 

Rome. — 242A. — It rained dreadfully in the morning, 
but fortunately cleared up before the time came for 
looking out for Rome. Our guide, though a very 
good kind of man, did not enter into our feelings, 
and even disclaimed all knowledge of the spot from 
which the first glimpse is to be had. It was, however, 
accurately described in our guide-book and, dis- 
mounting at the foot of a hill, we walked up and, from 
the top, strained our eyes for the ball of S. Peter's. 
After some consideration and considerable doubts 
between three or four objects we fixed on one, and 
keeping it steadily in our eye, found, after a few miles, 
that we were right. The ball and cross alone just 
appear above a little hill. 

For the last twenty-five miles there is no appearance 
of cultivation or dwelling or living creature, but, now 
and then, a flock of sheep or goats. As far as the eye 
can reach the scene presents one uniform dreary 
waste, bounded by distant hills or mountains. The 



i8i 4 ] FLORENCE TO ROME 161 

surface is remarkably undulating. As you approach 
the town, the ball of S. Peter's is hid behind the hill, 
and presently the Tiber is seen winding through the 
plain. I could not forbear watching that part of the 
hill which I knew concealed S. Peter's, in the hopes 
of seeing it appear ; but quickly the town began to 
shew itself to the left as we came round the hill, and 
then the attention became distracted by the number 
of cupolas successively discovering themselves, several 
of which we were ready at the first sight to pronounce 
the one. At last, when the whole town had been for 
some minutes in view, S. Peter's burst upon us and 
put all the rest to shame. 

For the last few miles the road is provokingly bad. 
We crossed the Tiber about two miles from the town, 
drove along the Flaminian way, and entered Rome 
early in the day. 

In the enjoyment of our most ardent wishes there 
are moments when the imagination is wearied and 
the spirits, too highly raised, suddenly sink, even to 
depression. This I experienced on entering Rome. 
The day was gloomy. The unmixed desolation of 
the morning's journey, joined to the badness of the 
road, had fatigued my mind. The celebrated entrance 
of the Porta del Popolo greatly disappointed me. We 
drove to the head inn in the Piazza di Spagna and 
could not obtain accommodation. There is, besides, 
a certain melancholy feeling attendant on entering, 
for the first time, a great town far from one's own 

M 



162 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [1841 

home, where everything we see is new, and every 
being we meet is a stranger to us. In short, I did 
not feel what I once expected to have felt, upon 
the enjoyment of the darling object of my admira- 
tion, that object which first warmed and exalted 
the imagination of my childhood, and which for 
some months past had raised alternately my hopes 
and fears. During the first hour after I arrived I 
could not help constantly repeating to myself, " Am 
I indeed in Rome ? " and the difficulty of raising my 
imagination to feel the full force of my situation only 
served to depress me the more. Fortunately, I had still 
sufficient sense remaining to remind me that the feeling 
of pain which I suffered would soon pass away ; else 
I verily believe that for some hours I should have 
regretted the journey. 

We got apartments in a second hotel in the Piazza 
di Spagna, called " PHotel de la Ville de Londres." 
We have a handsome sitting-room, good dining-room 
and two convenient bedchambers. For this we pay 
one sequin a day ; for dinner ten paoli a head. A 
sequin is ten shillings ; a paul sixpence. 

We had, for some time, been in expectation of a 
rigid search of our baggage, entering Rome ; but, to 
our surprise, we were permitted to pass without further 
trouble than giving our assurance that we had nothing 
which ought to pay duty. 



CHAPTER X 
ROME 

WE have now had a considerable experi- 
ence of Italian inns, and have every- 
where found them better than any 
account had led us to suppose. In the 
great towns they are excellent. In the country, from 
Milan to Bologna, they are sufficiently good ; from 
Bologna to Rome, particularly after passing Florence, 
many of them certainly are startling upon a first 
approach, but the appearance is worse than the reality. 
Many of our travellers, no doubt, have never entered 
such places before, and it must be allowed that there 
is not much of our notion of comfort attached to a 
miserable-looking house, the entrance to which is 
nearly a dunghill, the stairs dark and filthy ; but the 
beds are excellent, the sheets are sure to be well aired 
and scrupulously clean, the dinners and suppers are 
good, and the people themselves are civil. Now, the 
traveller who, at the end of his day's journey, finds a 
sufficiency of clean victuals neatly served, and a 
cheerful wood fire, with a good clean bed, does not 
deserve to be pitied ; and if he complains of his inn 

163 



164 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

he ought to have staid at home, for he is unfit to travel. 
For my own part, everything seemed so much better 
than the description had led me to expect, that I was 
always perfectly satisfied with my entertainment. 

October 25th. — Our first visit this morning was to 
Torlonia's * bank. His stepson, Mr. Chiaveri, speaks 
English reasonably well. He was extremely polite, 
offered us any money we might want before the arrival 
of our letters, and on our expressing our thanks said 
that it was his business to be useful, and that English- 
men deserved it. This Torlonia is a great personage 
here ; he made a prodigious fortune by risking every- 
thing with the French, and having lately purchased 
large estates with a dukedom annexed, he is now the 
Duke of Bracciano, with two fine palaces in the town 
and two villas. 

At Mr. Vasi's we purchased his guide-book, which 
is considered the best of its kind. Different travellers 
take different courses for seeing Rome. It is necessary 
for all to methodize, and for the greater part of our 
travellers, who make a visit of a fortnight or three 
weeks to Rome, not only to methodize, but to gallop 
and run from morning till night, in order to see where- 
abouts the sights are ; we, however, intend to make a 
long stay, and our plan is to see things at leisure, 
reading upon them from day to day. 

* Giovanni-Raimondo Torlonia (i 754-1 829) was a banker of 
humble birth, who was agent at Rome for Prince Furstenberg. In 
1809 he was created a Roman Patrician, and acquired the Duchy 
of Bracciano. 



i8i 4 ] ROME 165 

In talking to Mr. Vasi, who is a considerable book 
and print seller, I discovered a piece of ignorance that 
surprised me a good deal. He did not know that any- 
thing was the matter with the King of England, and 
that we have a regent ; and he thought that the Duke 
of York was elder than the Prince of Wales. 

From this we walked off to S. Peter's. The first 
sight of this building greatly disappointed me. The 
height and dimensions of the outside did not look, to 
my eyes, so large as S. Paul's. The place in front, 
with its colonnade, obelisk, and fountains, is excellent, 
but tends to diminish to the eye the building itself 
at the end of it. The facade displeases me greatly ; 
it is quite contemptible ; besides, it rises so high that 
the cupola is half hidden and the towers are entirely 
lost behind it. The interior is admirable beyond all 
my ideas ; I never saw anything that so completely 
satisfied my mind. 

S. Peter's has been described again and again, and 
sometimes well described ; but I consider it utterly 
impossible for anyone to form the least idea of what 
it is from description. The parts may be described, 
but the effect of the whole is inconceivable. Many 
writers have remarked that one is apt to be disap- 
pointed on first seeing S. Peter's, for that it looks 
smaller than it really is, and rightly so ; because, say 
they, all the parts are in such harmony that no one 
part looks so large as to draw the attention to itself, 
and consequently the mind, which refers the size of 



166 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct 

the whole to its parts, does not readily conceive the 
vast magnitude of this building. 

The principle on which these writers proceed is, 
in my opinion, a false one. It is ridiculous to say that 
it is a merit in an architect to build a great building to 
look like a little one ; or that a spectator is deceived 
into thinking meanly of a great thing, by the perfect 
harmony of its parts. The very reverse is the case 
in the Grecian monuments ; there the thing looks 
greater than it really is. 

But I deny that the inside of S. Peter's does look 
smaller than it really is. Its greatest beauty is that 
the attention is not drawn off to the details, but re- 
gards the unity of the whole, in the expansion and 
immensity of which the mind loses itself. A spectator 
certainly does not notice the vastness of the parts till 
his attention is particularly called to them ; but he 
sees that the whole is vaster than anything he has ever 
seen before. That is, until he is furnished with a 
rule he cannot measure the whole ; but we do not 
necessarily require to know the size of a thing to be 
assured of its greatness. When we look upon the 
sea, or some boundless plain, or the immeasurable 
expanse of the firmament, there is no standard ; we 
have no desire to measure them ; but surely we do 
not think the less greatly of them because we cannot 
tell how great they are not. With the outside it is 
the very reverse. There the parts are all dispropor- 
tioned and unharmonious, and the result is littleness. 



1 8 1 4 ] ROME 167 

I speak of it as seen from its own place, or any spot 
from which it is possible to see it near. From a dis- 
tance it is always great, imposing, and sublime. 

This morning I wished to hire a violin, which I sup- 
posed would be the easiest thing in the world ; but 
our valet was unable to direct me, and seemed to 
despair of my getting one. He brought me to a piano 
repairer, who was equally at a loss, remarking that 
there were not amateurs dans ces choses-la at Rome. 
I afterwards got one from a performer who promises 
to get me a violoncello also, and music. 

26th. — From the moment of our arrival we have 
had booksellers, painters, antiquarians, and vendors of 
curiosities sending up their cards and exhibiting their 
wonders to us. This morning a huge dish walked in 
for our inspection, painted by no less a man than 
Raffaelle himself and, as the owner assured me, " tres 
antique" 

We devoted this morning to hunting for lodgings, 
and went through a great many. They are in general, 
to our ideas, extremely bad ; we saw but two in which 
we could live with any comfort, and one of these, I 
think, we shall take. 

2jth. — Agreed, and removed into lodgings. They 
are most desirably situated in the Piazza di Spagna, 
in the house next to the great Staircase, and in them- 
selves they are particularly comfortable. We have 
an entire floor, consisting of two sitting-rooms, one 
of them large, cheerful, and well furnished ; two very 



168 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

good bedchambers, a servant's room and kitchen. 
Linen is furnished and washed, and everything for 
our housekeeping supplied. For this we pay thirty- 
five crowns a month. 

We afterwards strayed out and stumbled upon a 
heap of antiquities and ruins ; the columns of Trajan 
and Antoninus, triumphal arches, Colossaeum, etc. 
A great many of these are almost together ; and here, 
for the first time, my feelings acknowledge Old Rome. 

Trajan's Pillar is situated in a place which they are 
now digging out to lay open the whole pedestal and 
the old marble pavement. 

The Colossaeum, likewise, is lately quite opened 
round, and the earth carried away out of the center. 
A great wall is now building at one end, fastened into 
the old work, to preserve it from further ruin. In 
the inside of the Colossaeum fourteen altars are 
erected, of a white colour and gay light architecture, 
which produce a most provoking effect. These were 
raised by a Pope to sanctify the place, and preserve it 
against the warfare of modern barbarians, who were 
tearing it to pieces to use the materials in building 
palaces. The present Pope is beginning to place a 
second row, like the former, round the arena — for 
what purpose I confess I cannot imagine. 

28th. — On examining our maps when we returned 
home last night, we found that, without our knowing 
it, we had actually been in the Forum. We returned 
to it to-day ; it is quite outside of the modern town, 



1814] ROME 169 

and the remains on every side are unmixed with late 
buildings. Here one can forget himself into the age 
of Cicero, and lose sight of the Italians that surround 
him. I wish the Forum had not got the name of 
Campo Vaccino. It sounds mightily unpoetical. 
They who gave it did not feel " the magic of a name." 

We returned over the Capitol. In the center stands 
the celebrated equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, 
of bronze gilt, the only one remaining till the dis- 
coveries at Herculaneum. There has been a vast 
deal of criticism upon this horse, and one man wrote 
a book to prove that it is not a fine horse ; but after 
all that has been written and all that has been said 
upon it, the finest praise, as well as the truest judg- 
ment, ever pronounced upon the horse was when 
the enthusiastick artist, lost in contemplation of its 
excellence, suddenly exclaimed, " Walk ! " The truth 
is that, whatever faults may be pointed out, whether 
arising from injuries or from original malformation, 
the horse is alive. 

We saw a strange kind of procession coming out of 
a church near the Forum. There were twelve of the 
begging friars with masks of stuffs like their cloaks, 
with eye-holes only cut in them. They all sung as 
they went. Two carried lanterns, and one a cross of 
rough, unpeeled wood. All the people took off their 
hats ; and as we are now at Rome, we, in obedience 
to the old precept, did as the rest. 

To-day we met a great many beggars, who were 



170 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

extremely troublesome and importunate, some of 
them decent-looking and well dressed. They are a 
peculiar annoyance in this town, where it is necessary 
to stand a long time in the same spot looking at things. 
As we saw few until to-day I am in hopes that they 
are only allowed certain days in the week for the exer- 
cise of their trade. 

2()th. — I made an attempt this morning to find 
some musick, and was directed by a violin repairer to 
a printshop, as the only place where musick was sold. 
The whole stock was a bundle of violin solos by Rolla, 
the Milanese leader, and some airs with piano accom- 
paniment. 

We set out to see M. Angelo's " Moses " in the 
church of S. Pietro in Vincolis ; but on our way, 
finding all the world crowding in one direction, we 
followed the rest, and learned that the Pope was to 
arrive from the country. Every vehicle in the city 
was in requisition, and the number of persons on foot 
was very great. The carriages are, in shape and kind, 
different from ours, but they are in general as bad in 
their kind as our meanest job-coaches. A few are 
really handsome and even splendid, but hardly any 
equipage is perfect. A cardinal in a coach covered 
with gilding, drawn by fine long-tailed horses with 
crimson velvet harness, will have a footman more like 
a ragamuffin stealing a ride than the lowest order of 
regular domestick. A coachman will have splendid 
livery, the footman none at all. I saw, behind a 



I 



i8i 4 ] ROME 171 

well-appointed coach, a tall footman in a huge great- 
coat, cocked hat, white pantaloons without strings, 
dirty stockings and slipshod shoes, supported by a 
diminutive lad in a jacket, round hat, and dirty top 
boots. In general, they are without cravats, and their 
collars are not too clean. It is to be recollected that 
this was a state da}^ and all made their best appear- 
ance. On common days they do not dress so hand- 
somely. The Pope arrived in a very plain carriage 
of a dark morone colour, drawn by six post-horses. 
They passed on in a slow trot, while he blessed the 
people on every side, they kneeling down, though by 
no means universally. There were five carriages with 
his attendants. Two persons were in the carriage 
with him. 

30th. — Sunday. — Charles and I walked to S. Peter's, 
in hopes of hearing some musick, but were disappointed ; 
the chapel where the organ stands is under repair. 
The inside of this temple is certainly enchanting, but 
the more I see of it, the more I dislike the outside, 
particularly the facade. We afterwards walked in 
the Villa Medici. The gardens are open to the publick 
and, standing on a high terrace that looks down upon 
the city and surrounding country, they form a delight- 
ful walk. 

31st. — Holy Eve. — Two persons called on me this 
morning with musick, having heard that I was in want 
of some. One brought some foolish minuets and 
country dances, and a solo by Borghi — manuscript. 



172 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Oct. 

This man is a professor of the guitar, and either he is 
extremely ignorant, or they want a vast deal of good 
musick at Rome, for he is unacquainted with even the 
names of some of our best composers, as Rode, Rom- 
berg, and Beethoven. I gave him a list of names, to 
enquire whether their musick is known here. He 
mentioned only two celebrated composers now in 
Italy — the Milanese leader, Rolla, and another whose 
name I have forgot. My other friend gave me a good 
duetto of Mozart ; he is himself a violin player. He 
knows Rode by name, but has not seen any of his 
writing, nor of Romberg's. 

Charles and I paid a visit to Torlonia. The old 
gentleman himself speaks a little English, as does also 
a brother of the Mr. Chiaveri whom we had seen before. 
This young man gave us all the information we asked, 
in the kindest manner, assuring us of his desire to 
serve us. He and his brother were for some time 
in the house of a London banker. We enquired about 
an Italian master, and he told us that " if we admired 
the Italian poets and their beauties and sublimities 
and all that, he could recommend a person who was 
very fond of pointing out all these things ; but that, 
having lately introduced him to a Captain Anderson 
of our navy, he had been much disgusted with the 
grossierete of the captain, who did not relish the poets 
and had no taste for their beauties." We are to see 
this poetical gentleman to-morrow. He is not, Mr. 
Chiaveri informed us, a professed antiquarian, but he 



i8i4] ROME 173 

could be useful to us in that line. That is the way at 
Rome. Everything yields to antiquities and anti- 
quarians, and a certain class of men are ready to make 
a little money in every way they can. Our domestick, 
a most valuable man, besides being valet and cook, 
" serves us," as he expressed it, " for the antiquities " ; 
and always, in bringing us the card of an antiquarian 
who applies, says, " but we have no occasion for him." 
We generally find on our table, once or twice a day, 
curiosities for our inspection, and the man who brought 
me musick this morning produced an ornament for 
a lady's head — only twenty crowns. 

The Princess of Wales arrived to-day and made a 
great bustle. A guard of honour and attendants 
appointed to wait upon her. 

We made to-day, for Holy Eve, a rice-apple-dump- 
ling ; had apples and walnuts (the only kind of nut 
we could get), and drank the health of all the members 
of our united families. 

November 1st. — This morning we had a visit from 
Mr. Chiaveri, who gave us an invitation to his mother's 
conversazione, every Thursday evening. This gentle- 
man, a young man, the son of a duke, just come from 
waiting upon the Princess of Wales, had a beard of at 
least two days' growth, though in other respects he 
was clean and well dressed. 

We made another attempt to visit M. Angelo's 
" Moses." On our way we were driven by heavy rain 
into a church near Trajan's Pillar, where I found two 



174 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

curious notices, one at each side of the door. I copied 
one of them as follows : " Le messe celebrata per i 
defonti in qualunque altare di questa chiesa godono 
degli stessi privilegj delta capella del S. Presepe in 
Santa Maria Maggiore e di quella delta Scala Coeli 
nella chiesa delle Tre Fontane per holla di Sexto V dei 
15 Juglio 1587. E con una messa celebrata per i defonti 
in qualunque di questi altar i si puo' > liber are un anima 
dal purgatorio per privilegio concesso da Benedetto XIV 
con breve dei 15 Settembre 1741." 

The other, which I had not time to copy, gives 
notice that, " all other things being fulfilled," there 
may be obtained in that church all the advantages 
which can be obtained in any other church in Rome. 

When the rain was over I went in quest of " Moses." 
After losing my way several times, when everyone I 
spoke to was particularly civil in assisting me, I at 
last found him ; and I have never seen any statue that 
delighted me more. 

There is, in the gallery of Florence, an unfinished 
bust of Brutus, by Michael Angelo, whose merit is by 
connoisseurs considered so transcendent that they 
have been puzzled to assign a reason why it should 
have been left imperfect. Some have ascribed it to 
the inconstancy of a great genius, conceiving sublime 
things and not always possessing patience to work out 
the details. The moment I saw " Moses " to-day it 
struck me that I had discovered the true reason why 
" Brutus " is unfinished. In feature, turn of the head, 



i8i 4 ] ROME 175 

expression and character of countenance, Moses and 
Brutus are the same. I should therefore conjecture 
that, while Brutus was in progress, Buonarotti, having 
then his Moses in contemplation, determined to trans- 
fer to it this sublime head, and of course he would then 
cease to work upon it any longer. At all events, I 
am convinced that the one did, in some way, influence 
the other. How this has failed to strike others, I 
do not know ; but I cannot think that anyone ap- 
prized of it could fail to acknowledge the resemblance. 
2nd. — To a church, to see an exhibition that takes 
place during what is called the " OUavario per i de- 
fonti" or eight days set apart for prayers and offices 
for the dead. During this season all the churches are 
hung with black, but the shows are only in those 
which have cemeteries. We descended a flight of 
stairs crowded with persons going down and returning, 
and at the bottom we found a small apartment, the 
floor, ceiling, and walls of which were covered with 
dead men's bones, chiefly skulls, disposed in fancy 
patterns. Large chandeliers and other ornaments 
were made of the same materials. Various devices 
and inscriptions, mementoes of death and mortality, 
hung round the walls. Skeletons stood in niches, 
with silver crowns upon their skulls. In short, every- 
thing was of the most deadly fashion. The general 
effect was rather curious than displeasing or even 
melancholy. Many persons were on their knees, 
praying. At the upper end of the room sat three 



176 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

men in black, with large books open before them in 
which they entered the names of the dead whose 
friends wished to purchase for them two or three 
pauls'-worth in the service to be performed for the 
dead. The apartment next to this, a much larger one, 
was fitted up in the same way, but with more numerous 
devices. Upon the wall hung long lists of the names 
of those who had died in the parish since last year's 
celebration. At the end of this apartment there was 
a stage with six waxwork figures as large as life, and 
a great number painted in the background, forming 
an appropriate scene the subject of which was the 
miraculous appearance of the writing of Belshazzar. 
These representations are a subject of emulation be- 
tween the different churches. At all the doors, at 
the entrance, and walking through the crowd were 
persons in black, rattling tin boxes in which they 
receive money to pray generally for all the dead of the 
giver ; but a halfpenny or penny given in this way 
cannot, I should suppose, do much in this wholesale 
mass for one's friends. 

From this we went to the Farnese palace, once rich 
in celebrated statues that have been long since carried 
to Naples. We afterwards ascended the Janiculum, 
from whence the view of the city is most noble. Im- 
mediately under our feet, the Tiber and the ruins 
of the bridge on which Hor. Codes made his stand 
against the Etrurians. 

yd. — Our Italian master, Luigi Especo, attended 



i8i 4 ] ROME 177 

us, and expressed himself much pleased with our per- 
formance. He gave us a little work of his own, 
written to prove, contrary to the common opinion, 
that English is an easy language for the Italians and 
French to learn. 

To the Baths of Titus — a most interesting spot. 
Our guide seemed to watch us pretty closely, but I 
carried away a piece of the painted stucco. The day 
delightful ; our windows open during dinner. 

qth. — The Pope assisted in the celebration of mass at 
the church of San Carlo Borromeo,this being that saint's 
day. His Holiness had just entered the church when 
we arrived. The cardinals, prelates and other officers 
formed a state procession, in the midst of which the 
Pope was carried up the aisle in a large crimson velvet 
chair, under a silk canopy. Mass was performed by 
a cardinal. The crowd was very great. The Princess 
of Wales and suite sat in a seat fitted up immediately 
opposite to the Pope's throne, and they all knelt at 
the Elevation of the Host. The aisle was lined with 
guards, which appears strange to me, especially as 
the guards of his Holiness, though safe men no doubt, 
are not very ornamental ; but on enquiry I find that 
this custom was first introduced by the French. When 
the service was over the Pope was carried down as 
before, the people kneeling to receive his blessing as he 
passed. He then performed some other service in 
one of the chapels. The papal carriages are of enor- 
mous size and very clumsily built. That in which 



178 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

the Pope rides is all gilt, the upper pannels being of glass. 
It is drawn by six black horses covered with harness 
of red velvet, with gilt buckles. Some of the cardinals 
have handsome carriages ; but their servants are quite 
ridiculous, dressed in superb coats with breeches and 
stockings that our job coachmen would hardly wear. 
Some of them had dirty boots and worsted stockings. 

To the Villa Borghese, which, even in its winter 
dress, is a charming place. All the statues and pic- 
tures were purchased and carried away by Bonaparte. 

From this we went to hear a preacher who is, we are 
told, the best in Rome. The inside of the church was 
entirely covered over with red and black cloth or 
silk, and lighted up with wax candles in such pro- 
fusion that the whole seemed one blaze of light. It 
was the first church I have seen illuminated and the 
effect is very striking. In the inside of the church, 
at each side of the center aisle, there were placed, on 
marble pedestals, two skeletons — the one standing, 
the other sitting — adorned with tasteful draperies of 
black cloth and silver lace. Four blood-coloured 
lamps and a great many candles hung round each. 
When the service was over, the preacher ascended a 
pulpit placed at the side of the church, and delivered 
a sermon of three-quarters of an hour, in a tone of 
voice and with such a manner as defies all description. 
The little of it that I understood appeared to me 
good ; and after a short time the manner was not, 
upon the whole, displeasing, though it certainly com- 



i8i4] ROME 179 

bines an extreme coldness with the utmost vehemence 
of tone and most laboured gesture. The audience 
were all deeply attentive ; not a cough or " hem " 
was to be heard except at the regular stopping-places, 
when about a minute is allowed for blowing noses, etc. 
After the sermon a service was performed for the dead 
by a cardinal, during the whole of which the organ 
was played in a style old and pretty, but too light for 
church or organ. 

5//;. — Our worthy domestick, Onorato, took us to 
see the drawing of the lottery, which takes place three 
times a month. When we arrived at the place del 
montc cittorio we found a considerable crowd, and a 
party of grenadiers drawn up in front of the palace. 
This building is in the hands of Government and used 
as a publick office for all kinds of business. A large 
balcony in the center was hung with red silk, with 
canopy and festooning over it. When the hour was 
come (for which the crowd seemed very impatient) 
the drums and trumpets sounded and a bishop and 
two priests in full canonicals, accompanied by two 
noblemen in our court dress, appeared on the balcony. 
Proclamation was made, after which a servant came 
forward with a large silver vessel like a soup-tureen, 
which he held up with the inside towards the people, 
to shew that all was fair. Ninety numbers were then 
put into this urn, and a very little boy, dressed in 
white with powdered hair, was led forward. He, 
having crossed himself, moved his open hand slowly 



180 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

round his head and drew out a number, which an 
officer immediately announced to the people. The 
dead silence which had hitherto prevailed was now 
changed into a clamour that continued till preparation 
was made for drawing the next number. This was 
done with the same ceremony — five, in all, being 
drawn. 

The lottery scheme is different from ours. There 
are ninety numbers, on any one of which you may pay 
any sum you please, from a paul upwards. If the 
number you have insured on turn out one of the five 
drawn, you receive a sum proportioned to what you 
have paid and to the order in which it has been drawn 
— first, second, third, etc. You may gain in this 
lottery to the amount of nine thousand crowns. 

To the Pantheon. The portico is most noble. 
The inside is solemn and venerable but does not, at 
least at a first view, strike my eye as possessing much 
beauty. 

6th. — Sunday. — We went to a church where we 
were told there was a fine organ. We arrived too 
early, and passed on to see some things in the neigh- 
bourhood. Amongst these was the celebrated figure 
of our Saviour, in the church of S. Maria della Minerva, 
the work of M. Angelo. The expression and character 
seem to me particularly fine. A drapery of brass 
has been thrown over the figure — to avoid scandal, 
as we were told. On the right foot there is a brazen 
sandal, to preserve it from the zealous piety of the 



i8i4] ROME 181 

devout, who all kiss it on entering and leaving the 
church, as they do that of S. Peter at the Vatican. 
This sandal lasts about fifteen years ; it is now greatly 
worn. 

We returned by the great custom-house (the front 
of which is built into a fine old temple), the baths of 
Agrippa, and the Pantheon to our church. The organ 
was only played for about five minutes, before and at 
the elevation of the Host. The tone is remarkably 
fine, but the organ is so sadly out of tune that it is 
almost intolerable. 

This morning I saw the Host carried to a sick per- 
son. There was the usual procession with tapers, 
lamps, standards, crosses, etc. The Host was carried 
by the priest, under a canopy raised upon four poles. 
It is the custom on such occasions for the great men 
in the neighbourhood of the sick to send their servants, 
in their best dress, to attend the procession. Most 
persons, but not all, knelt down while it was passing. 
All took off their hats. 

yth. — Mr. Especo attended us to-day. In the course 
of conversation I mentioned to him the difficulty of 
finding musick, which had surprised me a good deal. 
He said that he considered Rome nearly a century 
behind all the other capitals of the civilized world. 
It is within five or six years that conductors of elec- 
tricity have been put on buildings here — even on S. 
Peter's — and but very lately that lamps have been 
placed in the leading streets. 



182 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

There is another instance in a most barbarous 
punishment, the instrument for which I saw a few 
days ago. A kind of gallows is erected, about thirty 
feet high, from which a rope, drawn over a pulley, 
is made fast to the wrists of the criminal, tied behind 
his back. He is drawn quietly up to the top, and 
then let fall near the ground with a jerk ; this is re- 
peated three times. The effect is to tear the arms 
in such a way that, we are told, they constantly swing 
forward over the wretch's head and touch his body 
in front. This inhuman torture, abolished by the 
French, has been restored with the restoration of a 
Christian spiritual Prince, and is exhibited in the 
fashionable street of the Corso, in front of a great 
palace and in sight of several. The instrument is 
finished since our arrival, and (as Onorato informed 
me, that I might go to witness it) this morning " il 
avoit sa fonction" 

The man who was punished this morning had 
stabbed another in some quarrel, and this led me to 
enquire about the frequency of these occurrences. 
Onorato tells me that the French adopted strong 
measures against stabbing and that, since then, the 
number stabbed has been " pas tant." In the twenty 
preceding years, he assures me, there were 36,000 
persons stabbed ; and that, including the perpetrators 
and those connected with them in the guilt, the killed, 
wounded, and criminals amounted, upon the publick 
books, to above 60,000 ; on which he sagely ob- 



i8i4] ROME 183 

served, " ce que devient une chose serieuse, parceque 
c'est une quantite de monde, ga" 

Mr. Especo promised to-day to introduce us, if we 
pleased, to a certain Countess Cardelli, who has agree- 
able musical parties at her house every Sunday evening. 
I intend going. 

8th. — Since I have been on the Continent I have 
often remarked how much earlier people rise than in 
England. Here I am up almost in the clouds of the 
night, before seven o'clock ; yet I have never been 
able to catch the world napping. It is not only that 
people are up, but everything bears the appearance 
of mid-day ; carriages driving about and gentlemen 
walking. They, to be sure, never shave. 

Charles and I went through several booksellers' 
shops. There is a large collection of excellent books. 
All the prohibited works are to be found in the shops, 
exposed as openly as any pious miracle. This sur- 
prised me a little till it was explained. The fact is 
that a large portion of the city is under the jurisdic- 
tion of the Spanish Ambassador ; another is under the 
controul of the French, and in this way the whole is 
parcelled out till there remains nothing to the Pope 
but a small circle round his two palaces, and as it so 
happens that no bookseller lives within his precincts, 
the number of prohibited books sold there is not very 
great. 

gth. — Waited on Mr. Chiaveri, who received us with 
his usual politeness. While we were here, Sir H. 



184 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

Davy came in ; he was here last spring, and is just 
now returning from Switzerland. 

To the Pantheon. Like everything truly great, it 
grows upon our admiration. It is a noble building, 
and in its original state must, from the accounts we 
have of it, have been most splendid. It cannot be 
too much lamented that Michael Angelo's design of 
giving to S. Peter's a front like that of the Pantheon 
was not executed ; it is in the true simplicity and 
greatness of the ancients. The present front is en- 
tirely unworthy of the greatest structure upon the earth. 

We saw the arch of Sep. Severus, and then went 
through that part of the Museum of the Capitol which 
we had not seen before. I observed a group, in marble, 
of a lion tearing a horse. It is of the natural size, 
and believed to be of great antiquity ; the horse has 
shoes exactly like those of the present day. As for 
the chambers painted in fresco, it is not, I believe, to 
be much regretted that there is no light to judge of 
them by. 

On our return home we met the Pope coming in 
state from a church where he had been to hear a preach- 
ing. A man rides before his carriage on a white 
mule, carrying a great golden cross ; both man and 
beast are superbly caparisoned. The postilions (who 
must not appear covered before the Pope) ride bare- 
headed, and do not, like our royal drivers, wear 
hunting-caps. The goodness of his Holiness permits 
them, I presume, to carry night-caps in their pockets 



i8i4] ROME 185 

in case of rain ; for rain it will, even upon a Pope, 
and these poor men's powdered heads would look a 
little odd after an Italian shower. 

io//z. — Mr. Especo was with us. We talked of the 
ignorance of ladies and gentlemen in this country, 
which he acknowledges to be extreme ; and, indeed, 
a remark of his own shows that it is so. After re- 
gretting that ladies were, in general, so uneducated, 
he said, " but indeed the few women of learning in 
Italy make such a display of it, that it is rather to 
be wished that they were ignorant. For example : a 
lady in this city lately, seeing an old blind man begging, 
said, ' There is a Homer.' " Now, really, to know 
that Homer is said to have been blind does not imply 
very deep erudition, even in a woman ; and in London 
or Dublin a lady might, I think, have said this without 
being pointed at, in company, as " the lady that 
talked of Homer." 

We made our ascent to the ball of S. Peter's. The 
mosaicks of the cupola, which from the floor seem as 
fine as painting, are in reality formed of rough un- 
polished pieces, of from a quarter of an inch to two 
inches in size. They are placed at some distance from 
each other, and the rough plaister is seen between 
them. One of the heads has lately fallen down, and 
as it is calculated that it would cost 30,000 piastres 
(about 7500/.) to repair it, we may conclude that the 
unhappy personage is likely to wear out the remainder 
of his days in headless misery. 



186 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

On our way home we met a procession, such as we 
have often seen, of persons in white with their faces 
covered, and the usual tapers, priests, banners, and 
lamps. We waited to see it pass and found that it was 
a funeral. The corpse, that of a young woman, was 
carried on a gilded bier, dressed in black, with white 
shoes. The head was ornamented with flowers and a 
chaplet lay at the feet, the face being quite uncovered. 
There did not seem to be any attendance of friends. 
The coffin, of deal, painted with skulls, cross-bones, etc., 
was carried behind, together with a large box of wax 
tapers to be used in the service for the dead. We 
find that this is the usual manner of carrying the dead. 
The persons we have remarked with the masks, and 
dressed in white or grey, are associated for the pur- 
pose of doing charitable offices, such as attending 
funerals, hospitals, condemned criminals, etc. 

There are in all the great towns of Italy — but on a 
more extensive scale in Florence, Rome, and Naples — 
companies of persons associated voluntarily together 
for charitable purposes. They are, in general, of the 
middling classes ; but the most distinguished charac- 
ters for rank, fortune and talent are also enrolled, and 
not unfrequently distinguish themselves by zeal and 
activity in the cause of benevolence and humanity. 
Their occupation is to visit the sick at their own 
homes and in the publick hospitals ; to relieve the 
oppressed deserving debtor ; to examine into the 
state of the gaols, and assist the friendless prisoner ; 



1 8 1 4 ] ROME 187 

to discover and administer to the wants of individuals 
suffering under the scourge of poverty, but unable or 
ashamed to beg ; to attend criminals to execution, 
and procure masses for the repose of their souls ; 
to attend the funeral of the forlorn dead, and defray 
the expense ; in short, from infancy to old age, from 
the first breath of life till its close in death, there is 
no sickness or want, misfortune or sorrow, that does 
not find in these charitable voluntary associations a 
friend and comforter ; and they have now existed 
for many centuries. They wear a dress that disguises 
the person and — assimilating the rich and poor, the 
great and humble — levels every distinction but that 
of superior activity in the cause that assembles them 
together. 

At night, after I had been some time in bed, I heard 
musick in the street and went to the window to listen 
to it. There were several instruments ; flute, clarionet, 
guitar and pianoforte, of the number. They were all 
in a kind of open carriage, like a long cart ; two men 
sung, and the musick was really very good. When 
they had finished their serenade, they drove away, 
playing. I found, next morning, that this was a 
serenade in compliment of a newly married couple, 
and that it is customary. 

nth. — To-day the rain prevented our seeing any- 
thing. In the evening I went with Mr. Especo to the 
Countess Cardelli's. She is a young widow, about 
four- or five-and-twenty, and lives with her father, 



188 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

brother, and unmarried sister. She received me very 
politely, and gave me a general invitation to her 
parties every Friday and Sunday. There were a great 
many gentlemen, but few ladies in proportion. The 
gentlemen all in morning dress, as almost all the 
ladies. The musick was all by amateurs, except a 
violin solo by an old man who had been leader at the 
first opera in Venice, but had resigned from motives 
of religion, which would not allow him to play in a 
theatre. His solo was, for a professor, very bad ; 
the stopping not always correct, and the style quite 
inelegant and with an everlasting flourishing in the 
worse taste. The subject of the solo was "Hope told 
a flattering tale " — with variations. 

The rest consisted of opera musick solos and duetts, 
by young ladies. The singing, like other amateur sing- 
ing, was sometimes good and sometimes bad. They 
were sometimes in and sometimes out, and the voices 
were most defective in intonation and management ; 
but still it was Italian musick, sung in an Italian style, 
with good pronunciation. Everyone flourished too 
much, and not well. All the musick was manuscript 
and in score. The two violin parts were performed 
by the Venice leader and a Count somebody, a young 
man who played the first extremely well for a dilettante. 
Two duetts that I looked at were by Portogallo. The 
Countess is learning English, but does not attempt to 

speak it yet. I was introduced to a Marquis , 

who talked a good deal of English literature, with 



i8i 4 ] ROME 189 

which he seems to have some acquaintance. I was 
also presented to the Princess Barberini, a fine woman 
who behaved very politely ; but she does not speak 
French, and my Italian is too weak yet to encounter 
a lady in conversation. 

12th. — To the Doria Palace to see the paintings, of 
which the quantity in this great palace is almost in- 
conceivable. In four of the rooms we only heard 
of the pictures, for we were tired and it was late ; 
our guide walked before us through the dark rooms 
and said, " These are all by Poussin ; these are by 
Caracci ; there, in the corner, is a fine thing that is 
greatly esteemed." To all of which we willingly 
assented, and never wished to have the window 
shutters opened. The fact is that one cannot keep 
his mind always in activity ; and in going over these 
extensive collections of paintings the strength, both 
of body and mind, often becomes so exhausted upon 
the first half that the remainder not only excites no 
pleasure, but produces positive pain. 

The day was fine, with a clear sun and unclouded 
sky, but intensely cold. All the people walking with 
their great cloaks wrapped round them. The women 
very generally carry a little earthenware vessel filled 
with lighted charcoal, by way of a muff. 

13th. — Sunday. — To the church of S. Giovanni in 
Laterano, the mother church of the Roman Catholick 
world. There are some fine things here, particularly 
a chapel, which is one of the most beautiful in Rome. 



iqo THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

While I was walking in the aisle I heard an extra- 
ordinary shouting from one of the chapels. I went 
in, and found about thirty girls, from three to ten 
years old, singing as loud as they could shout. They 
were divided into several classes, with a governess to 
each, who used to set them off by singing a strain 
which they all sung after her, repeating it over and 
over again for, perhaps, five minutes. When this 
had gone on for a quarter of an hour after my arrival, 
they ceased singing, and were then examined by a 
priest in something in the nature of catechism. As 
I was leaving the church a troop of boys — some of 
them very young, none more than ten or twelve — 
marched in, two-and-two, preceded by one bearing 
a large cross. They knelt down upon the steps of the 
altar in one of the chapels, and instantly began to sing, 
repeating the same five bars for exactly ten minutes, 
all at the utmost stretch of their voices. A man walked 
backwards and forwards giving directions ; checking 
some who shouted louder than their voices would bear, 
and modulating some who sung too much out of tune. 
They were afterwards divided into classes, and ex- 
amined as the girls had been. 

Opposite to this church is the Holy Staircase, 
which formerly belonged to Pilate's house ; and, as 
our Saviour trod it, the pious now perform the holy 
exercise of ascending it upon their knees. It was 
carried from Jerusalem and deposited in this building 
erected for its reception. I counted thirty-seven 



1814] ROME 191 

persons upon it at the same time ; they all carried 
prayer-books, which they read in their stops to rest 
themselves, when they also kissed the steps. It would 
be rather inconvenient for a kneeling crowd to descend 
backwards through a kneeling crowd ; they go off, 
therefore, by a side staircase that did not come from 
Jerusalem. 

From this I went to see the aqueducts of Nero and 
Claudius, the Porta Maggiore and Porta di S. Giovanni ; 
and thence to the Colossaeum. In the latter a Capu- 
chin friar was preaching. A long table was raised 
above the heads of the people, and on this the preacher 
stood. Beside him was a cross, about six feet long, 
with a figure of our Saviour. To this he frequently 
addressed himself during his discourse ; and towards 
the conclusion he seized it and held it up over his 
head, and the people then fell on their knees. I looked 
round and, perceiving some dissenters, I stood. At 
the conclusion he himself knelt and pronounced a 
blessing, turning the crucifix to every side. This man 
was heard distinctly all through the vast place, and 
yet his voice did not appear to be overstrained ; but 
when he had finished he seemed quite exhausted, and 
went away supported by two other friars. His action 
was good, and the discourse good, in spite of much 
repetition. His audience were attentive, and some 
affected. 

14th. — Charles and I walked a good deal through 
the town. In our return we chanced, for the first 



192 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

time, upon the Fountain of Trevi. It is the finest 
thing of the kind I have ever seen. 

To-day, like yesterday, was clear but bitterly cold ; 
yet, while I was dressing in the morning, at a little 
past seven o'clock, a gentleman exercised himself on 
the Place without cravat or hat, his hair flying in 
ringlets, and a pipe in his mouth. This airy gentle- 
man is a German. 

i$th. — Charles and I went through two publick 
libraries. At one we were shewn many curiosities, 
amongst others the first book ever printed at Rome 
and the first, as they told us, that was printed in the 
world. These early works are beautifully executed ; 
the later printing of the same person is extremely 
bad. This library contains above 70,000 volumes. 
At the other, which is smaller, but the catalogue of 
which fills twenty-seven thick folios, we saw a copy 
of the Gregorian chant. The notes seem to me to be 
a mean between hieroglyphics and shorthand. The 
monks at these libraries (for both belong to convents) 
seem, like other Romans, infected with the rage for 
antiquities. Whatever they shewed us was to be 
complimented on its age, and one very nice book 
was taken very unceremoniously out of my hand 
because it was not more than three centuries old. 

I walked alone to the Forum and round the palace 
of the Caesars, which presents a vast heap of unin- 
telligible ruins, chiefly vaulted passages and arches 
upon arches. While I was strolling about here a 



i8i4] ROME 193 

priest, a genteel-looking young man, accosted me, 
and we entered into conversation. Presently, he 
asked me was I a German ; and on my answering, 
" No, an Englishman," he seized me round the waist, 
looked for several seconds in my face, and I really 
thought would have kissed me. He was delighted, 
he said, to find himself in company with an English- 
man, and launched out into great praises of England. 
He gave me many instructions for seeing the antiquities 
of Rome and for studying Italian, gave me his address, 
and begged that, if I wanted any book or other thing 
during my stay, I would command his services. In 
the course of talking, this priest asked me whether 
I was Roman Catholick or Protestant ; and, upon my 
answer, he merely bowed ; then added, " We all 
appeal to the same Father." 

16th. — We visited Mr. Chiaveri, and found him with 
a beard of two days' growth, and dirt in proportion. 
The Duke was in old slipshod shoes, dirty stockings, 
and pantaloons without strings. This is their way. 

I had a very long walk, antiquity-hunting, and took 
a distant view of Caracalla's baths, a prodigious mass 
of ruins ; then examined the Pyramid of Caius 
Cestius. A small space about the base of this is set 
apart for the burial of heretics ; there are many neat 
tombs, some of English. I afterwards ascended 
Monte Testaccio, which is formed entirely of crockery 
ware. It is a little difficult to conjecture how such a 
pile could have been raised. The most commonly 



194 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

received opinion is that all the broken bits from manu- 
factories in this quarter were carried out here by order 
of the Government ; but I do not well understand 
this. From the top of the Mount the view is highly 
interesting. The wide waste of the Campagna, broken 
by the long lines of ruined aqueducts and interspersed 
with the remains of sepulchral monuments, forms a 
scene entirely Egyptian, and that has afforded the 
subject for many of Poussin's finest landscapes. On 
the other side the city is seen to great advantage. 

lyth. — We have just heard that an Englishman, 
who called himself Captain Anderson of our Navy, has 
succeeded in swindling Torlonia out of a thousand 
dollars and the loan of a carriage to Naples. He had 
a letter for a certain sum and, that being drawn, he 
said he was waiting for letters and would, in the mean- 
time, take a trip to Naples, for which Torlonia lent 
him the carriage and money. Chiaveri went in pursuit 
of him ; but he had sailed, leaving, however, the car- 
riage unsold. All the Romans rejoice that so cautious 
and hard-dealing a man as the Duke should have been 
duped, but are greatly surprised that an Englishman 
should have been guilty of such an act. Our swindlers, 
I suppose, have not penetrated so far as Rome before. 

Charles and I went a round of antiquities, and 
walked through some of what is called " Trastevere." 
The people of this district boast that they are the true 
descendants of the Romans, and that they preserve 
unsullied the valour and stern virtue of their ancestors. 



1 8 14] ROME 195 

I cannot say that in my short walk through them I 
discovered their peculiar features. The fact, however, 
is that the Italians themselves do ascribe to the in- 
habitants a distinguishing character that separates 
them from those of the other side of the water. There 
are Trastevere manners, Trastevere customs, Traste- 
vere games — and Trastevere murders, too. Whether, 
upon the whole, they are a better or worse race than 
their neighbours of the other side, I can't say. 

In the evening I made my first appearance at the 
Duke of Torlonia's conversazione. I was announced 
through several rooms — a servant standing in each — 
as " un cavalier Inglese." Mr. Chiaveri met me at 
the door of the farthest room, where the company 
were assembled, and introduced me to the Duchess 
and, afterwards, to his brother-in-law, a Count some- 
body. When I arrived the room was full. About 
ten o'clock six card-tables were placed ; a game was 
played at most of them which I do not know ; it is 
called " Boston." The gentlemen were all dressed, 
with the exception of a few who were in boots. The 
ladies, many in handsome morning dress ; others ex- 
tremely naked, particularly the arms and shoulders. 

There were, among the company, Lucien and 
Mademoiselle Bonaparte, the Prince of Saxe-Gotha 
and his brother, and some princes and princesses of 
this country — Piombino, Barberini, Ghigi, etc. Lucien 
Bonaparte is, in person, of the middle size : very 
well made. His complexion is sallow, and the general 



196 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

character of his features is like that of Napoleon's; 
but he has not the same breadth of forehead, and 
he wears spectacles, which a good deal disguise the 
real expression of his eyes. His manners are very 
simple and pleasing, and his smile is quite capti- 
vating. He played cards the whole evening ; and 
there he did what was certainly very impolite, and 
appeared to me extraordinary. Two of the ladies 
with whom he was playing did not speak anything but 
Italian, yet the whole evening he talked French to the 
lady at his left hand, without addressing a word to 
the others except upon the game. I enquired whether 
he spoke Italian well, and was answered, "Oh, yes — 
perfectly well ; but he don't like speaking anything 
but French." The party was, upon the whole, much 
like any other. The conversation was principally 
carried on in Italian, though a good deal of French 
was spoken. 

18th. — This morning the Duke of Torlonia's servant 
came to ask an " abonnement " upon my first visit to 
his master's. I gave it in the shape of three pauls. 
Mr. Especo had told me of this custom, which he calls 
an abuse, though it is universally demanded, even 
from Italians coming from the provinces. Those who 
reside at Rome pay annually or half-yearly to the 
domesticks of the houses they frequent, for it is not 
the way here for gentlemen to go about to different 
parties upon special invitations. They attach them- 
selves to one or more houses, where they are always to 



1814] ROME 197 

be found on the open nights, and it would be a deadly 
affront to desert them for any other. 

To the Cloaca Maxima, Porta Sebastiana and Arch 
of Drusus. 

In the evening to the Countess Cardelli. She received 
me very kindly and, to my great relief, addressed me 
in French. In the course of the evening she came 
up to me, and i; I think," says she, "you heard a violin 
player here one night." I answered, " Yes." " Well, 
then," replied she, " I'll give you your ticket now." 
I begged for three — to be more civil. This is a capital 
way of passing tickets ; they are only three paoli each. 
There was a great deal of singing to-night ; in general, 
much better than the last night. A song by a gentle- 
man very well — and a quintetto by five men capitally 
performed. The musick I looked over was by Fari- 
nelli, Paer, Mosca, Cimarosa, Mayer. There were no 
violins to-night. The musick was all from opera, and 
in score. 

19/A. — To Canova's workshop, which is, by his order, 
opened in the most liberal manner to all strangers. 
One room is hung with his designs, and prints of his 
works admirably executed ; one of the designs is for 
a monument to Lord Nelson. There are many of his 
casts to be seen. One is of a colossal statue of Napoleon ; 
it is naked, with a mantle thrown over his shoulders, 
like the Belvedere Apollo ; in one hand he holds the 
globe, surmounted by a Victory bearing a laurel 
crown and branch ; in the other a sceptre. This 



198 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

statue is somewhere at Paris, but was only exhibited 
for a very short time after its first arrival. Some say 
that Napoleon felt a dislike to the naked figure ; 
others say that, the statue having arrived at Paris 
just at the first reverse of his fortunes, some wags 
remarked that Victory was flying away out of the 
Emperor's hand, and that this occasioned its re- 
moval. 

(Note. — This statue of Napoleon, sent by Louis XVIII 
to the Prince Regent, was presented by him to the Duke 
of Wellington in 1817, and sent to Apsley House.) 

There are statues of the ex-Empress, Marie Louise, 
and of Bonaparte's mother. The only other finished 
work is a Hebe of inexpressible beauty, as indeed are 
all Canova's female figures ; this is done for Lord 
Cawdor. A group of The Three Graces is in progress. 
Another, of Theseus vanquishing the Centaur, is greatly 
advanced ; it seemed to me nearly finished, but we 
were told that Canova had never touched it yet. 
This visit was one of the highest interest ; we saw 
works in every state, from the first placing of the 
rough block to the last finishing of the master. The 
actual work done by him is but little. He makes the 
design, and models the cast from it. The marble is 
then wrought from the block by workmen and pupils, 
till it is ready to receive the final polish. 

Canova ranks with the greatest sculptors of antiquity. 
In the beautiful he has never been surpassed. His 
" Graces " are admitted to be superior to the ancient 



i8i4] ROME 199 

group ; his Perseus is inferior to the Apollo alone, 
and his Venus disputes the palm with the hitherto un- 
rivalled Queen of Beauty. Canova is said to be about 
fifty years of age. He is a man of the most amiable 
disposition, entirely devoted to his art. 

From this we were led to see fresco-paintings in a 
church. I dare say they are admirable to enlightened 
eyes ; but so greatly are they damaged that ours 
could distinguish neither drawing nor colouring. 

20th. — Sunday. — We walked out with Mr. Especo, 
who took us to the Baths of Diocletian. We also 
went to the Palace Barberini to see a curious in- 
scription upon the ridiculous invasion of Britain by 
Caligula. 

In the evening to the Countess Cardelli. There was 
an improvisatore, highly esteemed at Rome — a young 
man. The greater part of this exhibition was accom- 
panied on the pianoforte. A person sat beside the 
instrument and gave out the subject proposed by 
any of the company ; this subject was very often 
changed. Sometimes they proposed some idea or 
simile to be introduced in the subject upon which he 
was ; sometimes they proposed a word upon which 
the rhymes were to fall. In short, every method was 
taken to perplex the poet ; but he went on — whether 
well or ill, I can't tell : certainly, without hesitation 
and amidst the most extravagant applause. He pro- 
nounced a kind of declamation, the subject of which 
was the Battle of Leipzig and the triumphant return 



200 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

of the Pope. A gentleman assured me that he had 
said some very fine things. 

English are daily arriving in numbers. 

22nd. — Passed a charming hour -and -a- half in S. 
Peter's. Day cloudy, and, towards the evening, a 
cold wind. In the morning, windows open at break- 
fast. 

23rd. — Last night there was a dreadful thunder- 
storm, with tremendous rain that continued during 
the greater part of to-day. 

About three o'clock Charles and I went to take our 
walk in the Villa Medici. We met there an odd-look- 
ing old gentleman, whom we soon discovered to be 
a Scotchman who has been fifteen years on the Con- 
tinent — the two last in Italy. He was going to visit, 
here, a young Frenchman of the Academy, to whom 
he introduced us. This young man, M. Auguste, is 
the grandson, I believe, of the celebrated French 
sculptor, Couston. He has been studying at Rome four 
years, and got himself admitted into the Academy to 
avoid the conscription. He talks English well, though 
he never was in England. In half-an-hour's walking 
we became quite intimate with him, gave him our 
address, and proffered a great interchange of civilities. 
He is intimately acquainted with Mr. Especo; and 
from him I learn that Especo is really a genuine 
Marquis. This is an honor I had not at all looked 
for when I sought a Roman instructor. It explains, 
what has hitherto puzzled me, the intimacy of Especo 



1814] ROME 201 

with all the persons of consequence here. He is a 
Marquis, with a father living who has the family 
estate. It is not a great one, and our friend has been 
for many years living in Rome ; for his family are in 
Viterbo, with different employments under the Govern- 
ment. Under the French he was promoted, and held 
a situation of some importance. He lost this by the 
return of the Pope ; and now he takes advantage of 
his information, which is great for a Roman gentle- 
man, to turn a penny by teaching the English. 

To-day two men appeared before our house, dressed 
in a very picturesque manner, with short cloaks falling 
behind in large folds or plaits, great hats placed on 
the side of the head, and a kind of sandal instead of 
shoes. One had a kind of pipe ; the other, a bagpipe 
which he filled from the mouth by a pipe inserted into 
it. This made nothing but the drone, so that the 
two together only made one bagpipe. On these 
instruments they performed an extraordinary kind 
of musick for an hour-and-a-half before our lodgings. 
In the course of the day several other pairs appeared 
in the streets, armed in the same way, and all playing 
the same tune, which is an uncommon one. These 
men are Neapolitains, who always make their appear- 
ance a month before Christmas, and remain till after 
the festival. They are called Pifferari — anglice, Pipers. 
Onorato assures me that, from within nine days of 
January, they will never cease, night or day. If so, 
I hope they will, at least, sometimes change the tune, 



202 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

for the same tune, heard without respite for above 
two hundred hours, might grow a little ennuyant. 

24th. — The rain, which continued during the greater 
part of the day, only permitted us to run down into 
the Corso and cheapen a print from five to three paoli. 
Marquis Especo was with us, and talked a great deal 
about Roman customs. Visiting is even more matter 
of form here, if possible, than with us. It is common 
to send your card with a servant — the person you visit 
knowing that you have not called yourself. Until the 
time of the French no unmarried lady was permitted 
to dance or attend balls, and even now it is not com- 
mon, though sometimes done. 

25^. — Walked about the town, going into every 
church in our way. Over the entrance of one there 
was a placard with " Indulgentia plenaria quotidiana 
perpetua pro vivis et defunctis." What more can be 
desired ? Yet this church was not crowded. 

We went round a cloister which was covered with 
paintings of the miracles of S. Francis. One of them 
institutes an invidious comparison between the Saint 
and Moses : the inscription under it saying that, 
" Whereas Moses, by two strokes of his rod, produced 
' undas? S. Francis, by one, brought forth ' aquas? ' 
The reader is left in doubt whether to produce " undas " 
by two strokes, or " aquas " by one, be the greater 
miracle. Considering that S. Francis has large bodies 
of men devoted to his service and sworn to uphold 
his miracles, I do think this is rather ungenerous to 



i8i4] ROME 203 

a character so respectable as that of Moses, who is 
left without one legalized defender upon earth. 

26th. — I went into several churches at the other 
side of the Tiber. In one of them I saw, preserved 
under strong grates and chains, the very stone that 
was hung round the neck of a certain saint when he 
was drowned in a well. It is a handsome piece of 
round polished marble. 

Over the door of another church was a notice 
promising " full indulgence to all manner of persons 
who should attend there once during the Ottavario 
and, having truly repented, should pray for concord 
amongst Catholick princes, for the extirpation of 
heresy and the exaltation of the Papal See ; and to 
all who should attend the whole eight days, absolution 
for seven years to come." This seems easy work. 

I finished by walking through S. Peter's, which I 
intend never to miss an opportunity of doing. 

2jth. — To the Sistine chapel in the Vatican, to see 
a Papal function, and the lighting of the Pauline 
chapel, which always takes place the first Sunday in 
Advent. 

The service was like that at which we saw the 
Pope before ; a great deal of ceremony among the 
cardinals ; bowing and doffing caps to each other ; 
kissing and embracing ; their trains twisted and un- 
twisted twenty times. The only difference was a 
Latin sermon, delivered with a coolness of manner 
that would not have disgraced the English pulpit. 



204 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

When this was over, the Pope, preceded by the 
cardinals, marched into the other chapel, carrying the 
Host. A satin parasol was held over him till he reached 
his own canopy. A train-bearer attended each car- 
dinal and held up his twisted train. The Pope's train 
was supported by two. They returned again through 
the Sistine to another chapel in the same order, and 
then back again to the Pauline. The Pope advanced 
to the foot of the altar, knelt down, and began to pray 
in silence. During this time the cardinals left him, 
one by one. After three-quarters of an hour my 
patience was beginning to evaporate, and I ventured to 
enquire how long he was to kneel ; I was told that he 
had a quarter- of- an- hour more to stay. An unin- 
terrupted praying must be kept up, night and day, 
during the exposition of the Sacrament, which lasts 
forty hours. The Pope prays the first hour, when he 
resigns to one of the cardinals, who relieve each other. 

The illumination of the chapel is most splendid ; 
it is the design of Michael Angelo. The Sistine chapel 
is all painted by him, and the end over the last altar 
contains his great work of the Last Judgment. The 
singing performed by the papal choir, without organ, 
was, I believe, very good ; but it was so different 
from anything I had heard before, both in the style 
of the musick and the manner of performing it, that 
I could not exactly satisfy myself as to the degree 
of its merit ; besides, my attention was a good deal 
distracted by the crowds and accessories. 



1814] ROME 205 

I afterwards walked to the Pantheon. There was a 
priest giving a lecture or sermon to about forty boys 
and as many girls, sitting round him on forms. He 
sat in a large crimson chair, upon a large table covered 
with black cloth. The part of his discourse that I 
heard was a comparison of the pains of purgatory 
with the pains of this world, and seemed to me very 
unintelligible. His doctrines did not, at least, injure 
his auditors, for not one of them seemed even to 
wish to be thought attentive. When he had finished 
a bell rung, and at once all the children fell on their 
knees and set up a shouting that soon drove me from 
the church. 

I then went to the church where Buonarotti's 
figure of our Saviour is — to look at it again. There 
I found a service going on, accompanied on the organ. 
The performance was as bad as possible. The singers 
were out of tune with themselves ; the organ was out 
of tune with itself, and both singers and organ were 
out of tune with each other. 

28th. — All morning at home with Especo. Violent 
rain prevented our doing more than taking a short 
walk in the Villa Medici before dinner. 

29th. — We visited, for the first time, the fresco 
paintings of Raphael — the highest effort of the art — 
that have for three hundred years received the homage 
of all Europe, and furnished the study of every painter. 
These consist of two kinds, those in the chambers, 
and those in what are called the "Loggie." This is 



206 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

an open gallery or corridor, running round the inside 
square or court of the Vatican palace. It is marked 
into divisions by pillars and pilasters, and thirteen 
of these divisions (being the whole length of one side) 
are painted by Raphael, or, rather, from his designs. 
The vaulted ceiling of each division is marked into 
four compartments, on each of which there is a painting 
from the Bible history. On the walls of the corridor 
are the celebrated arabesques. 

These paintings, exposed to wind and damp, may 
well be supposed to have suffered much in the course 
of three hundred years. The arabesques are in many 
places quite effaced, everywhere greatly injured. 
The paintings on the ceilings, less exposed by their 
situation, are in general well preserved. They are 
now closing in the whole gallery with frames and glass, 
to prevent further damage. This is done under the 
direction of Canova. I had almost forgot to mention 
that, just as we entered the gallery, we met Canova 
attending a party of ladies, and had the pleasure of 
seeing him here for some time. 

The chambers contain sixteen great fresques, one 
on each wall of the four chambers. These are the 
works that set Raphael above all the painters that have 
ever existed. They are all injured more or less ; in 
some the colours are quite gone. 

While we were contemplating the School of Athens, 
with which the Oxford copy had made us familiar, a 
party of young Englishmen dashed in — just like young 



i8i4] ROME 207 

Englishmen — talking, singing, and making as mnch 
noise as if no one was within a hundred miles of them. 
They hurried through the rooms without stopping an 
instant till they reached that where we were, when 
one of them, probably an Oxford man, said, "This 
is the School of Athens." At this they condescended 
to turn once round upon their heels and cast their 
eyes over it as they turned ; but one of them, more 
prudent than the rest, exclaimed, "Come, come! we 
must not waste time here," upon which they made 
their escape, some of them not even entering the last 
room. I should like to know whether these young 
gentlemen criticized the frescos of Raphael with the 
same airs of connoisseurship I have known others, 
equally qualified, to assume upon their return. 

From this we passed on to see the tremendous work 
of the Last Judgment. It is not lawful to criticize 
the productions of the thrice-divine Michael Angelo ; 
but I could not please myself with this painting. 
The incongruities (not to say, absurdities) in the design 
are striking ; and I do not pretend to have had my eyes 
sufficiently opened to the naked Sublime, to relish 
in it that Sublime which, upon the credit of others, I 
firmly believe it to possess. To my mind it seems a 
confusion of great things — earth, hell, and heaven, 
Christian and pagan worship, dead men and living 
men, saints, angels, and their great Creator are all 
exhibited together in one undistinguishable mass. 

From this to the establishment for mosaick work. 



208 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Nov. 

It belongs to the Government, and is at present carried 
on in the building formerly occupied by the Inquisi- 
tion ; this gave an additional interest to our visit. 
The small kind of mosaick seen in rings, snuff-boxes, 
and such articles is made by a great many persons at 
Rome ; but here alone is manufactured the large kind. 
Indeed, no individual could bear the expense of such 
a manufacture. A single large picture with three or 
four figures is not finished under twelve years (two 
men being always employed upon it) and costs, or, 
rather, is made at an expense of, about 25,000 piastres, 
or nearly 6300/. of our money. We saw them working 
upon such a picture, the subject of which was the 
Incredulity of S, Thomas. The composition used is 
a vitreous substance, of which there are 17,000 tints, 
arranged in glass cases like a mineralogical cabinet. 
These are in an unpolished state ; but as the artist 
could not judge of the colour with sufficient accuracy 
till polished, a polished bit of each tint, numbered 
from the heap to which it belongs, is kept in the room 
where he works ; and thus he can easily ascertain 
and send for the exact colour he wants. The work is 
carried on by fastening the pieces down into a strong 
plaister. It is not till the whole is done that the 
polishing commences, which reduces the work to an 
even surface and brings out the colours in their true 
brightness. The operation of making the small kind 
is much the same, except that the vitreous substance 
is made in the shape of bits of straw of different degrees 



1 8 14] ROME 209 

of fineness. The ends of these are immersed in the 
plaister, and then broken off and polished. A square 
of six or eight inches, upon which we saw them 
employed, would take, they told us, fourteen months' 
constant labour to finish it. 

1st of December. — Mr. Especo shewed us a licence 
from the Pope to read all the books prohibited by the 
Church. This permission, he says, can be very easily 
obtained. 

To S. Peter's, where there was an exposition of the 
Sacrament in one of the chapels. The illumination 
fine. 

Affixed to a church near this we read a notice from 
the Pope, promising to everyone who should confess 
there during the Ottavario absolution for 300 days 
for each confession ; and to whosoever should confess 
every day of the Ottavario a plenary indulgence. 

In the evening to Torlonia's. There were many 
English gentlemen there, who quickly formed an im- 
penetrable phalanx at the upper end of the room, 
where, excluding all strangers, they firmly maintained 
their post during the evening. Among them was Mr. 
Eustace,* author of the Classical Tour in Italy, and 
Lord Brownlow, with whom he travels. 

* John Chetwode Eustace was born in Ireland about 1762, and 
was ordained priest at Maynooth College. The sentiments he ex- 
pressed, and his association with Protestant clergy, gave offence 
to his co-religionists; and the Classical Tour, published in 18 13, 
was denounced for its " uncatholic and latitudinarian spirit." 
The Classical Tour, which achieved considerable success, was Mr. 
p 



210 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

On our way home Onorato told me that, in the 
evening, a man had been stabbed in the street and 
killed. The murderer escaped. 

2nd. — There were placards to-day through the town 
announcing an exposition of the Sacrament for the 
benefit of two criminals condemned to death for some 
murder. This is the first publick notice of the con- 
viction of prisoners, the trial being private. 

I walked through the Forum and into the Colossaeum, 
where a friar and a party of the masked fraternity 
were singing from altar to altar ; they knelt about 
five minutes before each. The attendance was numer- 
ous — particularly of women. 

3rd. — In the morning persons dressed in black silk, 
with their faces covered, went about the town collect- 
ing money to purchase masses for the souls of the men 
who were to be hanged. Most persons seemed to give 
something. The execution took place about noon, 
in the Piazza del Popolo. It seemed to excite a con- 
siderable sensation. 

I received to-day a well-written English note from 
M. Auguste, the student of the French Academy, in 
which he apologized for not having brought me yet 
to see the pictures of their Director — the reason of 
which was that they are not painted yet — and begged 

Eustace's Journal of a Tour in Italy in 1802 with the Lord Brownlow 
mentioned in the text (then Mr. John Cust). Mr. Eustace died of 
malarial fever at Naples on the 1st August, 18 16 ; and he is said 
to have " bitterly bewailed on his deathbed the erroneous and 
irreligious tendency of several passages in the publication." 



i8i 4 ] ROME 211 

to assure me of his high consideration. This is the 
first time I have even heard the Director mentioned. 
However, I returned an answer, expressing anxiety 
to see his paintings, and assuring M. Auguste of my 
high consideration. I also kindly acquiesced in the 
sufficiency of the cause of delay. 

(Note. — The Director of the French Academy is 
M. Lethiere, celebrated for his " Judgment of Brutus") 

j±th. — Sunday. — To S. Peter's to hear vespers. 
There was some good singing, but in a style light 
and Italian to which I am not accustomed in church 
musick. The organ well played. I added here, to- 
day, to the numerous instances of irreverence that I 
constantly observe in persons employed in the church 
services, one of very great indecency. There are about 
forty persons belonging to the choir in this chapel, 
and part of the ceremony consists in going through 
their seats and incensing each of them separately. 
Many of them make a joke of this — turning away 
their heads, stopping their noses, and blowing away 
the incense, as anyone disliking tobacco might the 
smoke from a tobacco pipe. 

$th. — To the library of the Vatican. We saw some 
fine illuminated manuscripts, the paintings of which 
were executed by Raphael's school and are really 
beautiful. The library itself is painted in a light, airy 
style, and is a handsome thing ; but it never would 
be imagined to be a library, so ingeniously is it dis- 
guised. The books are kept in low cases with two 



212 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

shelves only ; and these are painted to correspond 
with the ornaments about them, in such a manner 
that you would never suppose they were cases at all. 
I, from early prejudice, have a leaning to dark, dirty- 
looking mahogany desks and backs of books. There 
are manuscripts here to the number of 45,000. The 
French, by treaty, carried away 500 volumes of their 
choice ; but, to make amends, they pillaged other 
Roman libraries to enrich this. It seems to be a doubt 
whether the Government will restore these ; their 
notions of justice are sometimes whimsical enough. 

Since our arrival at Rome we have been every day 
hearing of highway robberies, some of which we 
ascertained to be false, and none of which we could 
authenticate. We have now, however, really got one 
gentleman who was stripped, robbed, and plundered 
of all his baggage ; and two others who found a man 
upon the road, lying with his throat cut. Both these 
on the road to Naples. 

I see, also, a proclamation posted through the town 
to-day stating, for the benefit of travellers, that the 
police has been strengthened, and offering a reward 
of 200 crowns to anyone who shall kill or take 
a robber. Mr. Especo was much surprised at our 
saying that we travelled with arms and would defend 
ourselves if attacked ; this, it seems, is not the custom 
of the country. He declared at once that he was 
not a warrior, and that, if he were stopped, he would 
instantly deliver his money and turn away his head 



i8i4] ROME 213 

for fear they might suppose he wished to know their 
persons. Yet, when I put it to him, he said that, if 
we were to shoot one, the rest would certainly all run 
away. 

(Note. — Subsequent occurrences shewed me that Italian 
banditti are not lightly to be resisted ; and were I to travel 
in their way again, I should probably rely less on a pair 
of pistols than I did at this period. Whether it is that 
they arc careless of shedding blood, or that they expect 
to escape with impunity, or that they are better organized 
than with us, or that equality of punishment makes it 
less their interest to avoid adding murder to robbery, 
tJicse gentlemen arc not to be terrified by any shew of 
resistance, and are hardly to be encountered with a fair 
chance of success. They are all armed with guns, and 
arc excellent marksmen.) 

The Government have offered to reinstate Especo, 
and he is in great doubt whether to accept or reject 
their offer. He propounded to us to-day his reasons, 
and deliberately poised the pros and cons, amongst 
which not the least weighty, nor expressed with the 
least feeling, was, " If I accept it, I shall then be able 
to wear my uniform." This is an instance of that 
trifling so often found among the most sensible French- 
men and Italians in their most serious moments. I 
am not sure whether the question will not ultimately 
hinge upon this childish feeling about a laced coat. 

To the tomb or monument of Augustus. It is con- 
verted into an amphitheatre for the exhibition of 



214 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

bull fights and other spectacles. These take place in 
summer. The bull right here consists in torturing 
an unfortunate animal by turning him into the arena 
to attack an unarmed man, who runs round two barrels 
fastened in the center and teazes him for half-an-hour 
or more, to the infinite diversion of several hundred 
spectators. The poor creature is finally baited with 
dogs. The sport is in the ineffectual rage of the bull, 
and the agility of the man who, besides the security 
of his barrels, can, if too hard pressed, throw himself 
in among the spectators. It sometimes does, how- 
ever, happen that the other beast catches and kills 
him. 

To the church of S. Andrea della Valle, a noble 
building which contains the Four Evangelists, per- 
haps the masterpiece of Domenichino, and is, be- 
sides, built upon the site of the Arena of Pompey, 
where Caesar was assassinated. Certainly, full half 
of the interest belonging to everything one sees at 
Rome is to be referred to the recollections attached 
to particular buildings and spots of ground. 

6th. — Took a long walk and saw many churches. 
One of them, S. Maria degli Angeli, is very beautiful — 
made by Michael Angelo out of part of Diocletian's 
baths. 

It is very common, in this country, to see votive 
pictures hung about the altar of the Virgin or Saint 
by whose good offices anyone has been saved from 
an imminent danger. These pictures represent the 



i8i4] ROME 215 

accident — as of a man run over by a cart, or kicked 
by a horse. The saint always appears, lending a 
hand. At one altar to-day I counted fifty-seven 
pictures, besides five guns, a pistol, and a crutch. 
How the crutch might have failed, I can't say ; the 
fire-arms had all burst in the hands of their owners. 

yth. — Took a long drive, ending at the church of 
S. Paul outside of the walls. This church is altogether, 
outside and inside, as ugly as anything I ever beheld, 
but it is a real curiosity. It is said to have been built 
by Constantine, and certainly is of the greatest anti- 
quity. Parts of the roof are covered with ancient 
mosaicks (i.e. of the Middle Ages). There are about 
twenty columns of the finest paronazzetto marble, 
taken from the mausoleum of Adrian ; they are of the 
Corinthian order, and the proportions and the work- 
manship are exquisite. The floor is paved or flagged 
with fragments of the finest marbles — ancient tomb- 
stones and inscriptions, put down together without 
any regard for order or beauty. While we were here 
a herd of buffaloes, the first I have seen, passed by. 
They are used for drawing boats on the Tiber. 

In the evening I was introduced to the conver- 
sazione of the Marchesa Massimo.* The Marchese 
seems to be a good plain kind of gentleman. His wife 
is a very lively, pleasing woman, and is reputed a 

* Christine de Saxe, the wife of Don Cammillo Victor Massimo, 
was a daughter of Prince Xavier, a son of Frederick Augustus III, 
King of Poland, by his wife the Countess Clara Spinucci. The 
Marchesa Massimo died in 1837. 



216 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

model of propriety and excellence of conduct. She is 
niece to the King of Saxony. There were here to- 
night the Austrian, Prussian, French, and Portuguese 
ambassadors, the Sardinian minister, Lucien Bona- 
parte, Cardinal Fesch (who is Napoleon's uncle and 
was within arm's length of the papal crown), and 
several Roman princes. This party began at half- 
past seven o'clock, and not an English person appeared 
till nine. Massimo's brother-in-law, Marquis Altieri, 
to whom I was presented, complained that, although 
the house was opened expressly for the English, yet 
none of them were coming. They did, however, 
arrive — nearly all of them at the same time — and all 
went away before ten, rather earlier than anyone else. 

It has often been remarked how difficult it is for 
foreigners to comprehend the nature of our titles and 
ranks in society. Mr. Especo never can call Davy 
anything but Lord Davy, because his wife is Lady 
Davy ; and in talking to-night of our ranks, he asked 
me, "Is an Esquire much esteemed in England ? " 
There were six rooms open at this house, all hand- 
somely furnished and lighted. Tea, coffee, and cakes 
were handed about. 

8th. — Mr. Chiaveri had obtained permission from 
the Prince of Piombino to take an English party to 
see the Villa Ludovisi, and was kind enough to include 
us. This is one of the greatest favours a man can 
receive at Rome, for the villa contains some of the 
finest things that are to be met with, and the Prince 



1 8 1 4 ] ROME 217 

and his father have been remarkable for their illiber- 
ally. The gardens are laid out in a style approaching 
that of Versailles, except that here tall cypresses 
take the place of clipped elms and poplars. In a 
casino is the famous Aurora of Guercino, painted 
upon a ceiling, and his Fame. The former is es- 
teemed his finest work. In another casino there is 
a fine collection of statues, admirably arranged by 
Canova. 

This day, being the festival of the Conception, I 
went to a church where I was told there was to be 
musick. There was, indeed, singing and organ ; but 
such singing and such organ as I have not often had 
the misfortune to hear. 

gth. — To the Tomb of the Scipios, discovered in 
1780. There were found here urns, flags with in- 
scriptions, and a bust of Ennius, as it is supposed. 
These have been removed to the Vatican Museum, 
but facsimiles of some of them have been placed as 
they were discovered. This is one of the most in- 
teresting remains at Rome. There is an indescribable 
sensation awakened by thus standing, as it were, 
amongst the shades of this illustrious family — the 
most irreproachable of the Republick — in the mansion 
where they have reposed for so many ages. 

10th. — Last night I was at the Countess Cardelli's. 
There was some good singing. I have remarked that 
the ladies at Roman parties are very few in proportion 
to the gentlemen. Last night there were but seven 



218 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

ladies out of at least fifty or sixty persons. Un- 
married women do not attend these conversazioni ; 
and a considerable proportion of the gentlemen are 
clergymen, and, of course, unmarried. 

A bookseller, with whom we were to-day, took us 
through his printing office, where there was a good deal 
of business going on. The prohibition of books at 
Rome appears to be little more than a mere formality. 
Booksellers are allowed to have the prohibited books, 
but are expected not to sell them but to persons having 
a license ; and this license is most easily procured. 
The prohibition does not extend to strangers — at 
least, to English strangers ; for it is merely a matter 
of conscience, and no Englishman is expected to have 
any conscience. 

nth. — Sunday. — To the Pope's chapel at Monte 
Cavallo. The same ceremonies we have seen before. 
The singing without accompaniment ; in the full 
parts excellent, but the solos indifferently executed, 
and the attempts at a shake perfectly laughable. The 
attention paid to the English extreme, even to the 
exclusion of ecclesiasticks from their usual seats to 
make room for us. They, individually, give up their 
places with the greatest politeness. 

We finished by hearing vespers in S. Peter's. The 
anthem not so well as last Sunday, but the singing 
very good. The upper voices possess a compass and 
volume of tone inconceivable to those who have not 
heard them ; but although all their closes include an 



i8i4] ROME 219 

intended shake, there is, in reality, nothing like a 
shake among them. 

12th. — To the Palace Colonna. It is rilled with 
paintings by the best masters, and contains some 
fine statues. 

In the evening to Massimo's. A great many dis- 
tinguished personages. Not more than three or four 
English gentlemen appeared till near ten o'clock, 
when my country-men and women began to pour in, 
and were all come in the space of ten minutes from 
the first arrival. The ladies all gathered themselves 
into a group in the middle of the room, with their 
knees close together, and the gentlemen stood, 
leaning on the backs of their chairs. This they call 
mixing in foreign society. I find that cards are 
universal in society at Rome, but different games 
prevail at different houses : here, Cassino ; at Tor- 
Ionia's, Boston. It is not considered polite to lay 
down your hat on the table at a conversazione 
unless you are very intimate at the house. No one 
wears gloves — I mean, no Continentalist, for all the 
English do. 

i?>th. — To the Vatican Museum, accompanied by 
Mr. Especo. The fine statues taken away by Napoleon 
are replaced by their casts, which are far superior to 
any casts I have seen. The Perseus and two Pugilists 
of Canova occupy a separate hall. The Perseus is 
indeed an exquisite figure ; it is too beautiful. There 
is a vast quantity of ancient mosaick pavement, 



220 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

carried here from various places, some of the best 
from Adrian's villa at Tivoli. The difference between 
it and the modern is that it is formed of real stones, 
instead of the composition used now. Mr. Especo 
dined with us. 

14th. — Nothing very remarkable occurred to-day, 
except the breaking of my first violin string, which 
had served me faithfully for seven weeks of hard 
rasping. 

15th. — Finished seeing the Palace Colonna. Some of 
the paintings are on the highest floor, and this gave 
us an opportunity of seeing this story of a Roman 
palace. The rooms are smaller than the others, and 
poorly furnished ; but the conductor informed us 
that a Prince somebody, brother of Prince Colonna, 
lived here, and used to have " Una bella Accademia " 
in one room that he shewed us. This is the way. A 
palace is built, for his nephew or nearer relation, by 
the reigning Pope, who can apply to this purpose the 
funds of the Church. That is, the sovereign, being 
already provided with two immense palaces, builds 
another for his family, vying with the others in extent 
and grandeur. It is impossible for the richest in- 
dividual to keep such a palace in habitable repair, or 
to cover it with his most extended grasp ; and the 
consequence is that the half of one floor (or less) is 
occupied by the owner, who is generally a prince, 
while the remainder is divided between show apart- 
ments, inhabited only by the speaking dead upon their 



1814] ROME 221 

walls, and unfurnished waste rooms. Or, as in the 
Colonna palace, a brother or other relative of the 
prince " goes halves," and covers another half -floor. 
Fortunately, the nature of the building-stone and the 
pure air of this climate preserve the outside of these 
buildings in their first beauty ; but no palace in Rome 
bears the appearance of having been occupied for 
years. 

I went to the manufactory of violin strings, and 
saw amazing quantities of all kinds and of the most 
beautiful appearance. The Roman strings are the 
best in the world, and are exported to wherever a 
violin is to be found. 

In the evening to the Duke of Torlonia's, who 
(most spiritedly) gave an accademia, and had refresh- 
ments of all kinds handed about in profusion. There 
was some excellent singing, particularly by two gentle- 
men amateurs — one of them really admirable — and a 
professional lady. 

I had a good deal of conversation to-night about 
the composers of Italy and musick in general. Zin- 
garelli, a Neapolitain or residing at Naples, is con- 
sidered the first ; then Paer. Rossini, a very young 
man, a Bolognian, has written some operas, one or 
two of which are said to shew the greatest genius. 
Winter and Beethoven are, as far as I can learn, totally 
unknown. The Italians have not yet got out of their 
own simple melodious style of composition and 
plunged into the depths of harmony. The German 



222 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

school is, however, creeping on. Paer is leading them 
farther than they have hitherto ventured, and the 
Italian publick is beginning to listen to Mozart. 

There were a great number of persons of distinction 
at Torlonia's to-night, and a crowd of English. 

ibth. — To the Palace Rospigliosi. There is a large 
collection of pictures, but nothing very remarkable, 
except the Triumph of David, by Domenichino, and an 
Andromeda, by Guido, which is truly beautiful. 

In a casino in the garden is Guido's far-famed 
Aurora. The colouring is inimitable and in perfect 
preservation, but altogether the picture does not please 
me so well as that of Guercino. The two painters 
have treated their subject very differently. Guercino 
describes the break of day. Aurora in her car, drawn 
by two horses, chases away the hours of night, repre- 
sented by female figures before whom the stars are 
disappearing. Angels fly round the goddess and 
scatter flowers. Behind the chariot is the Dawn, 
represented by a young man holding a torch ; before 
it Night — a female figure with a book in her 
hand. 

Guido has chosen the rising of the sun. The chariot 
of the sun, drawn by four horses, is surrounded by 
seven nymphs hand-in-hand, to represent hours : 
Aurora flies before and strews the way with flowers ; 
Hesperus soars above the god. The colouring is in 
every part matchless. The solemn dark blue sea, 
whose edge is just tinged by the first ray, is admirably 



i8i 4 ] ROME 223 

contrasted with the blaze of light that surrounds the 
chariot. But beyond this I am not much pleased. 
The figures are doubtless beautiful — above all, that 
of Aurora ; but their beauty is insipid. The Hours 
step lightly, indeed, but their air is languid and in- 
animate ; they do not look above half awake. The 
god himself is drowsy, and this at a moment when all 
should be life and spirit. 

(Note. — Such was my feeling at the time ; but I am now 
convinced that I was wrong, and that the Aurora of Guido 
is the more admirable work of the two. Not that I have 
changed my mind as to the faults imputable to it ; but 
in spite of these it is a beautiful work — harmonious and 
classical.) 

In the evening to Contessa Cardelli. Some very 
good musick, especially two songs by a professor. 
The musick I have heard has been generally long 
scenes from operas, without being selected, as with us ; 
the comick scenes often depending more upon the 
effect of the words than of the musick. I have seldom 
seen printed musick, and never arranged from the 
score. Milan is the only town in Italy where musick 
is printed — at least, in any quantity. 

lyth. — To the Barberini palace, to see a lion in 
basso relievo, as large as life and admirably well done. 
It is considered one of the best remains of animal 
sculpture in existence. The King of Spain is coming 
to lodge in this palace, and Prince Barberini ascends 
to the garrets. His Majesty has hitherto occupied the 



224 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

palace of Prince Borghese, but the prince is now about 
to return. 

From this I went to S. Maria degli Angeli, and on 
my return paid a visit of half-an-hour to " Moses," with 
whom I am never tired. 

This day was absolutely summer. As we walked 
and enjoyed it, Onorato asked me whether we ever 
had as fine days about July and August. I answered, 
" Sometimes," and he replied, " That is pretty well," 
and seemed to think us better off than he had supposed. 

18th. — Sunday. — To S. Peter's for the evening 
service, some parts of which were excellent ; indeed 
this, upon the whole, is the best musick we get at 
Rome. 

iqth. — Mr. Especo talked a good deal this morning on 
the subject of cicisbeism. I asked him whether they 
are, or are pretended to be, platonick attachments. 
He laughed at the idea, and said that they neither 
are, nor are pretended to be so. In general, a lady 
upon her marriage takes a gentleman, her professed 
lover, whose duty it is to attend her in her walks and to 
conversazioni, and to execute all commissions with 
which she shall entrust him. At balls the lady usually 
dances with her cicisbeo ; but he would be ashamed 
of being thought jealous, and is anxious to have her 
dance with men of rank, which reflects an honour upon 
himself. A gentleman disgraces himself by forming 
a connexion of this kind with a person of rank inferior 
to his own. The husband, for his own honor, is 



i8i4] ROME 225 

desirous that his wife should not choose foolishly, 
but he has no voice in the business. Of course, he has 
no shame upon the subject and, in general, no dislike 
to having a person to save him all trouble of attention 
to his wife, for whom he has never had, nor intended 
to have, the slightest portion of love, and whom, 
probably, he had never seen before the marriage was 
agreed upon. A few gentlemen do, however, make 
war upon cicisbeism, and contend for an exclusive 
property in their own wives. In many instances 
married couples live on the most intimate terms, ex- 
changing partners ; and then the four persons furnish 
forth : four attached friends, two husbands and their 
wives, two adulterers and two faithless wives, and 
two ladies each with her cavalier servente. Mr. Especo's 
father and another made such an exchange. At Genoa 
it is common to covenant in the marriage settlements 
that the lady shall be uncontrouled in her choice of a 
cicisbeo — either named at the time, or to arise upon 
some contingency. Beyond this easy system, now 
universally established, inconstancy seems to be almost 
as much condemned as in England. There are, here 
as there, intriguing women, some in secret, some 
without disguise ; but a proper woman is constant to 
her cicisbeo and her husband, who may be termed the 
" sleeping partner " in the concern. 

Drove out to S. Giovanni in Laterano. In the bap- 
tistery is preserved the very urn used at the baptism 
of Constantine. There was (along with the font 
Q 



226 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

erected by him) a lamb of gold covered with precious 
stones, priests of silver, and other articles of great 
value, more valuable from their antiquity than even 
from their intrinsick worth. These were all turned 
into money by Urban VIII. 

In the evening to Marchese Massimo's ; few English ; 
Spanish ambassador, whom I had not seen before. 

20th. — I discovered a church that says it is built 
upon the site of the house of S. John and S. Paul. 
The very spot where they were killed is railed round 
in the aisle. 

Walking through a street I saw a company of the 
masked fraternity coming out of a church. I guessed 
that there was a funeral, and, going in, I found a corpse 
laid out in the aisle upon a bier, and two monks 
reading over it. There were a few other persons stand- 
ing about it. Hardly a day passes without our seeing 
one or more funerals. 

In the evening to a Signor somebody's house, to 
an accademia. He is a lawyer and a young man, but 
a very great oddity. He was dressed to-night in a 
long coarse grey surtout, without cravat ; shirt-neck 
dirty ; dirty hands and slipshod shoes. However, he 
behaved very politely. The room was handsome, 
well lighted, and hung with good paintings. The com- 
pany was arranged in two rows, forming a semi- 
circle from the piano, the ladies all in the front row. 
Indeed, I have remarked that wherever there is a 
circle the ladies have it all to themselves — no gentle- 



1 8 14] ROME 227 

man presuming to sit among them. A gentleman 
may, if he pleases, stand inside of the circle and talk 
to any lady ; but every word he says is heard by those 
on each side of her. The musick was all tolerable — 
some very good ; but they are greatly given to comick 
selections, the whole merit of which is often entirely 
in the meaning. The singers also act too much. To- 
night two gentlemen, singing a duett, used as much 
action as they could have done on the stage — and even 
embraced. In a song where a servant makes love to 
a waiting-maid, while his master is ringing for him, 
the bell was actually rung the whole time. 

21st. — The rain continued to-day till three p.m., 
and prevented the procession which was to have taken 
place upon the installation of the new Senator. The 
Roman Senate now centers in the person of a single 
man, chosen from the Roman noble families, and 
elected for life. The present Senator, Prince Patrizi, 
seems to have deserved this honor by his firmness 
and spirit in resisting one of Bonaparte's tyrannical 
acts. An order was sent by the Emperor to the heads 
of the principal families at Rome, commanding them 
to send each a son to Paris, to be educated by the 
French Government. Patrizi alone had the boldness 
to refuse, alleging that he could not suffer his son to 
imbibe notions hostile to his country and his religion. 
The son was taken away by force and the father 
thrown into prison. 

The Roman beggars change the form of their in- 



228 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

vocation almost every day, praying in the name of 
the saint of the day, or in the spirit of the passing or 
approaching festival. In the Ottavario it was, " Per 
Vanimi santi del purgatorio / " Now, as Christmas 
approaches, the style is, " Per Vamore del Santissimo 
Bambino ! " 

22nd, — Incessant rain prevented the Senator from 
taking his seat, and me from having anything to 
record. 

23rd. — Mr. Especo, who is anxious to make me see 
the villas of Rome, insists on taking me himself to 
the principal ones ; and this morning we began with 
the Villa Pamfili, which is one of the finest and most 
extensive of them all. Part of it is in the excess of 
Versailles taste. From one spot I counted seventy 
waters spitting from separate single mouths, besides 
cascades and great jets d'eau. There are also orangeries 
and shell grottos, with parterres curiously cut into 
doves with olive branches, towers, and other in- 
genious devices. The remainder is, however, really 
fine, and might grace any demesne in England. It is 
on high ground, partly covered by a grove of pines, 
and the view, bounded by the distant mountains, 
is quite enchanting. The planting of the Roman 
villas consists almost entirely of pines and evergreens 
in prodigious quantities, so that on a bright day in 
winter you may walk here and find nothing to remind 
you of the season. These waterfalls and spouts must 
certainly be most grateful and refreshing in the 



i8i4] ROME 229 

scorching heat of an Italian summer. To-day the 
sensation excited by them was absolutely freezing. 
This villa is freely open to the publick. Prince Doria, 
the owner, seldom visits it ; but he must be forgiven, 
for, amidst the heavy exactions of the French, he alone, 
of all the Roman princes, would never part with a 
single picture or statue. 

In the French church we saw an inscription, put 
there before the Revolution, promising to any person 
who shall pray for the King of France ten days' in- 
dulgence. 

In the evening to Countess Cardelli's. Little musick, 
and that not good. Ladies here have greatly the vice 
of trying to sing pieces infinitely above their powers. 

24//Z. — To the Villa Farnesina. The great hall is 
painted with the history of the loves of Cupid and 
Psyche, by Raffaelle. It is the best preserved of all 
his fresques, and gave me very great pleasure. In 
another apartment is his Galatea — a beautiful 
painting. While Raffaelle was employed upon this, 
Michael Angelo came in his absence, secretly, to visit 
the work ; and before he departed, he drew with 
black crayon, in one of the compartments marked off 
for the ornamenting, a large head in the great style — 
some say, to reprove the smallness of figure and 
effeminate subject of the Galatea. Raffaelle, upon 
his return, at once recognized the style of his visitor, 
and the head still remains. 

When we were going away the conductor presented 






230 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

Susan with a branch of oranges fresh pulled from the 
tree. 

Afterwards we went to S. Peter's, where great 
preparations were making for to-morrow. Vespers 
were performed with the organ, but not so well as I 
have heard on Sundays. Met here Sankey, West and 
Cliffe, just arrived from Florence, and walked with 
them to the Pantheon. After dinner, the moon being 
bright and in the most favourable point, we seized the 
opportunity of viewing the front of S. Peter's by moon- 
light. The improvement is great beyond conception. 

There is always a great mass in musick, with illu- 
mination, to usher in Christmas morn, performed at 
S. Maria Maggiore. The hour, we were told, was one 
o'clock in the morning ; but we were resolved that 
no laziness should make us lose any part of the cele- 
bration of Christmas, and determined to go. The 
church being at a considerable distance, we left home 
at half-past twelve. We found the doors shut, and 
numbers of persons waiting for admittance ; and there 
we remained in the cold, walking up and down, back- 
wards and forwards, and sometimes round the church 
for variety, till half-past two. The doors were then 
thrown open, and the crowd rushed in. 

The church, which is a very large one divided into 
three aisles by two rows of fine granite columns, was 
lighted up with between three and four hundred 
candles. The columns covered, and the walls hung, 
with crimson silk. The light was not sufficient to give 




"SUSAN" (MRS. CHARLES MAYNE) 

F?-ojii the photograph of a cameo done in Rome in the 
possession of Mrs. Broke 



1814] ROME 231 

brilliancy, but the effect was, nevertheless, fine and 
imposing. In a short time the scene became the most 
novel, the most curious, and the most entertaining 
I ever beheld. Immediately upon the opening of the 
doors the tired crowds had placed themselves, sitting 
on the ground, along the walls and against the columns 
and the confessionals, while a second row lay upon 
the ground with their heads in the laps of the first, 
and all were quickly fast asleep. Persons of all 
conditions were traversing the aisles — some of the 
country-women and peasants in their handsomest 
dresses ; others in their common clothes ; and others, 
again, from the neighbouring parts of the town, with 
night-caps, and blankets thrown over their shoulders. 
Before the lighted altars kneeling crowds, lost to the 
surrounding scene, seemed wholly occupied in prayer, 
while gaily dressed ladies and smirking beaux passed 
and repassed with all the gaiety of a ballroom. All 
this, in such a building, and powerfully aided by the 
solemnity of the hour, proved a scene that amply 
repaid us for the fatigue we endured to see it. 

The service did not commence till half-past three 
o'clock. Mass was performed by a cardinal ; but 
as we had seen the ceremony, and as the singers 
(placed close to the ceiling) could hardly be heard 
and did not appear particularly fine, and, above all, 
as we had already joined to a fatiguing day three 
hours of standing and walking and were to be early 
at S. Peter's in the morning, we only waited to see 



232 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

them all engaged, and then ran away. A proclamation 
had been issued in the morning enjoining decent 
behaviour, and requesting that persons of different 
sexes would not remain together, but no article of it 
was in the least attended to. 

25th. — Christmas Day. — At half-past nine we were 
at S. Peter's. The service was very much like others 
that we have seen, but lasted two hours and a-half 
and became extremely tiresome. These ceremonies, 
with all their splendour and pomp, are not fine or 
imposing. There is so much bowing and curtseying 
and crossing and kneeling and changing places, and 
carrying things from one place to another without 
any visible reason, that the mind grows exhausted 
and, naturally and involuntarily, compares this grave 
trifling with the magnificent assemblage collected 
together to assist in it. The singing by the papal 
choir was, however, delightful, and one part did 
form the most striking coup d'ceil I ever witnessed. 
The service was performed at the great altar under 
the dome, from which the Pope's state, cardinals and 
their attendants, prelates, priests and others formed 
a circle up to the principal throne opposite to the altar. 
Inside this circle was a double row of persons in white, 
with lighted tapers in their hands. On the outside 
of it were, first, in a space railed off for them, the 
ladies and gentlemen, the English principally in 
British uniform, and beyond them the common 
people. At the elevation of the Host all the people 



i8i 4 ] ROME 233 

fell on their knees, the cardinals and others of the circle 
with their faces to the ground, and the tapers bent 
forward towards the center. This scene, under the 
dome of this noble building, and aided by the singing 
of the choir, was really affecting. It was the only fine 
thing in the whole. 

The thrones were magnificent ; the altar covered 
with gold and silver plate ; the cardinals in their 
state dresses, with mitres. The King of Spain and 
the King and Queen of Etruria were present. The 
bronze statue of S. Peter had a brilliant diamond ring 
on its little finger. 

The day was dreadfully wet. In the evening 
Onorato, who had grieved all day at the inactivity of 
our carriage, urged the propriety of our visiting some 
buildings by moonlight. We accordingly set out, 
and drove to the Colossaeum. Unfortunately, the 
moon was covered with clouds when we reached the 
spot ; however, it looked very well, and we continued 
driving to other ruins in that quarter till the moon 
reappeared, and we then visited S. Peter's. 

26th. — I walked a good deal through the town with 
Mr. Especo, *\ho brought me to see three presepj. 
These form part of the Christmas show, and consist 
in a representation of the stable at the birth of our 
Saviour. Some of them are in churches, on a great 
scale — the figures of full size ; but almost every private 
house has one. The scene is so contrived as to give 
a view of the country, with peasants at their work, 



234 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Dec. 

distant mountains, etc., forming a pretty landscape. 
In a palace which is famous for its presepj I saw one 
which, to be sure, had nothing to say to the subject, 
but was extremely pretty. There was an extensive 
view of country, with a variety of prospects, near and 
distant ; the figures excellent ; the landscape made 
of its natural materials — real earth, grass, moss, and 
trees. 

2jth. — To the gallery of pictures at the Capitol. 
The collection is not very large, but there are some 
fine pieces, particularly of Guido. A S. Sebastian by 
him is the only one of this commonest of all subjects, 
with which I have ever been pleased. 

I attempted one of the theatres, but the opera there 
has such a run that I could not get in. It is Vltaliana 
in Algieri, by Rossini. 

28th. — Violent and incessant rain the whole day. 
M. Auguste, with whom we yesterday fixed to go see 
the paintings at the Academy to-day, paid us a visit. 

29th. — Drove to presepj and churches. One of the 
churches belongs to a convent of noble ladies. There 
is a gallery round it, grated, for the nuns. The grate 
is not made of bars, but of brass plates with holes cut 
in them, and looks not unlike the work of our cane 
chairs. We saw, through this grate, one of the nuns 
praying ; and another of them talked, from behind 
the turn-box, to our conductor. There are, as we 
were informed, forty nuns here. 

In the evening to the theatre della Valle, where is 



i8i 4 ] ROME 235 

the best opera at Rome, though the house is, I 
believe, the smallest. The lobbies and entrance are 
inferior to anything I have seen on the Continent ; 
the inside, however, is reasonably good, but in great 
disrepair. In the two best tiers the boxes are all 
taken by the season, and the owners ornament them 
with hangings of silk, and gold and silver lace, the colour 
and form of which, being ad libitum, produces a very 
irregular appearance. There are five tiers of boxes. 
The orchestra, of about thirty performers, good ; 
horns, clarionet and hautboy admirable. The com- 
pany is not great and there is no great singer, but they 
are all good. The opera, by Guglielmo, excellent. 
There was no ballet, but first an act of comedy, then 
of opera ; then the second act of the comedy, and 
afterwards the act of the opera to conclude. The 
comedy was a mere foolish farce, but entertaining 
enough. Before the performance commenced a large 
lustre was hung in the center of the house ; but then 
it was drawn up, and the darkness was so great that, 
except in the few boxes next to the stage, it was im- 
possible from the pit to distinguish anyone in the 
boxes. 

30th. — In the evening to the Contessa Cardelli. 
There was some good musick, but the ladies will en- 
deavour to do too much. Afterwards to Torlonia's, 
which was filled with English. In other respects it 
was like the other parties, except that there was a 
little musick in the early part of the evening. 



236 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

31s/. — Went this morning to the first regular messa 
in musica that we have been able to hear of. The 
ceremony consists of good light musick, performed 
by an orchestra and singers for an hour-and-a-half, 
during which a cardinal and some priests sat listening 
to them — at intervals settling things upon the altar, 
and curtseying to the altar and bowing to each other. 
At the elevation of the Host a clarionet concerto of 
rapid execution was played. All this was at the master 
altar ; but, while it was going on, other services were 
performing at the side altars, and persons in the crowd 
listening to the musick were every moment kneeling 
and crossing themselves, as the different parts of these 
several services required. They were, I suppose (as 
the Jesuits permitted), making up one whole mass of 
the parts of several. 

From this we went with M. Auguste to see a painting 
just finished by the Director of the French Academy, 
which is greatly admired. The subject is " Homer 
among the Tombs." It and another have been pur- 
chased for 3000 dollars. 

In the evening we were again gratified by musick 
in the church where we had been in the morning. 
Some superior voices were added. We are indebted 
for this treat to the holy-day of the Saint to whom 
this church is dedicated — and to funds able to afford 
the expense. 

1815. — January 1st, Sunday. — I forgot to mention 
that, yesterday evening, while we were at dinner after 



i8i5] ROME 237 

dark, a procession of monks, accompanied by the usual 
crosses, lanterns, etc., came in full song into the Piazza 
di Spagna, where they halted ; and one of them preached 
a sermon of twenty minutes, with the most violent 
straining of voice, and in a tone that seemed like the 
most dreadful lamentation and crying. This takes 
place in the principal squares or places of the city 
once in every three months. There was a crowded 
audience. 

To-day, at length, the long-expected procession of 
the Senator took place. There were the guards, 
colours, and other usual accompaniments of a proces- 
sion ; but the entertaining part was a crowd of eccle- 
siastical personages in full canonicals, silk stockings, 
buckles, and cocked hats — on horseback. Many of 
them — indeed, the greater part — had never mounted 
a horse in all their lives before, and their awkward- 
ness and terror were extreme. Servants in superb 
liveries walked beside their masters, and were ready, 
upon the slightest unnecessary movement of the 
chargers, to relieve their riders from the burden of the 
reins ; for although the most wretched, spiritless 
animals had been purposely selected, yet the novelty 
of the scene and the shouts of the people would some- 
times elicit an unchurchly amble. 

The Senator, dressed in a crimson and yellow robe, 
with a full-bottomed powdered wig with three tails, 
was mounted on a handsome charger, and rode with 
all the confidence of a Dictator. When the procession 



238 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

had passed our house we hastened to the Capitol, and 
saw it ascend triumphant to the temple. At the foot 
of the stairs the Senator was met by a band of monks, 
who conducted him to the church. The crowd was 
prodigious, and every crowd here affords much interest 
to us. 

At night there was a splendid entertainment in 
the senatorial palace on the Capitol, the whole of 
which was brilliantly illuminated. At each side of 
the court there was an orchestra of about thirty per- 
formers. 

2nd. — The day incredibly warm and bright. Charles 
and I walked with Mr. Especo to Villa Albani. 
The mountains, beautiful from every point of view, 
look particularly fine from these grounds. The villa 
and casino, built and planned by the celebrated 
Winckelman, really do him infinite credit. The 
grounds, however, in spite of the general good taste 
and judgment that distinguish them, are disfigured 
with water conceits, stiff walks, and carved trees ; 
and on a small marble bason, five feet in diameter, 
filled by the spitting of a little trickling tube, four 
marble swans sit in full sail. 

People say to-day that Joachim, King of Naples,* 
is going to declare war against the Pope because he 
will not acknowledge him. He is certainly preparing 
troops for something ; but the Romans could never 

* Murat, who married Caroline, the youngest of Napoleon's 
sisters. 









i8i5] ROME 239 

have the impertinence to resist. The cry is, as usual, 
against the selfishness of England in giving up her 
old friend, Ferdinand ; and the allied Powers are 
accused of giving Joachim leave to attack poor Pius. 

yd. — When we sent for our letters to-day, word 
was brought back that the French ambassador had 
seized upon all the letters, insisting that they must 
go through his hands, as those of the Neapolitain and 
other Governments do through their respective minis- 
ters. I don't care who has the reading of them, but 
I wish they would not keep my letters while they are 
quarrelling. 

4/A. — To-day gave us rain that prevented our leaving 
the house, together with a great thunder-storm — the 
lightning uncommonly vivid. Towards the end of it 
hail fell, the largest I ever saw. One bit of it measured 
half-an-inch in diameter after I had brought it into 
the room in my hand, and there were larger. 

Eight tragedies of Shakespear have been translated 
into Italian by a person at Milan. Especo brought 
me to-day Hamlet, which I have nearly finished. It 
appeals to me much better than I could have ex- 
pected ; some parts are really very good. The opinion 
of it, among the Italians, is that it is an excellent 
translation. Those who know nothing of the original 
do not quite understand it, but agree that it is written 
in the most powerful Italian. 

To-day, at dinner, we had wild boar for the first 
time. It is a very rich meat, dressed with a most 



240 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

exquisite sweet sauce. The wild boar is in great 
plenty at seven or eight miles distant from the town. 

$th. — Last night thunder and lightning, with violent 
rain ; rain all day. We heard of, and bought, frag- 
ments of three orations of Cicero, lately discovered 
in the Ambrosian library at Milan, and just published 
now for the first time. 

6th. — Went again through the museum of the Capitol. 
A vast crowd was assembled on the staircase and about 
the Capitol, to see the exhibition of the Santo Bambino, 
which is preserved in the church of Ara Cceli, and 
having been exposed in the Presepe, is always shut 
up again with much ceremony, being previously 
shewn to the people. A great procession arrived at 
the church and marched up the long staircase ; we 
saw nothing of it but the standards, colours, tapers 
and drums. In a short time the Infant (a waxen 
figure, I believe) was carried out by a priest and held 
up to the people, who all took off their hats, fell on 
their knees and devoutly crossed themselves. As I 
was in the midst of them I took off my hat, but did not 
kneel. This sacred image is preserved with much care, 
and sick persons send for it, that its entrance into 
their houses may relieve them. On such occasions 
two monks attend it in a carriage, with great ceremony, 
and receive from the sick donations proportionate to 
their means and danger. — N.B. This is the nineteenth 
century. 

In the evening to the Countess Cardelli. There 



i8i5] ROME 241 

was some good musick, particularly a quintetto by 
Mayer, extremely well performed. 

yth. — Drove out on the Appian Way to the tomb of 
Caecilia Metella and circus of Caracalla. The tomb 
of C. Metella is the finest and most perfect remaining. 
In the Middle Ages it was made into the tower of a 
fortified castle, whose ruins still remain around it. 

On this road is pointed out the plain on which the 
combat of the Horatii and Curiatii took place. It 
may really be the very one, and it is gratifying to 
think so. 

On our return into the town we went over the 
Palatine Hill. The ruins are quite incomprehensible, 
but they excite a strong feeling of interest. Mutilated 
columns and fragments of beautifully ornamented 
friezes and cornices lay scattered about the vineyards 
and gardens that cover the hill. Two small chambers, 
deep under ground, are shewn as the baths of Livia. 
The gilding and painting on the ceilings are in high 
preservation and of excellent taste. Three small 
paintings of sacrifices are perfect, though in most 
parts of these chambers the water oozes through and 
pours down like rain. 

In the evening to the theatre Tordinona, which is 
large and handsome. The orchestra of about thirty- 
five performers, but far from good. The opera was 
Tancredi, a serious one by Rossini, the first of his 
I have heard. Some parts of it are very good. The 
principal woman manages an excellent voice very 



1 



242 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

indifferently, and possesses neither style nor spirit. 
The other, who played the part of Tancred, used a 
small sweet voice with great skill, and sung in a de- 
lightful style. The tenor has a good voice, and uses 
the lower part of it reasonably well. The rest are 
far inferior to any Italian singers I have heard, and 
contrive to make this what is called, in Italian, " una 
seccatura " : ang., a bore. 

Sth. — Sunday. — It rained all morning. At three 
o'clock Charles and I went to S. Peter's and heard 
some very good musick. The tenor voice was re- 
markably sweet. 

gth. — Drove outside the walls. The views round 
Rome are very fine, and in summer must be quite 
charming. The mountains are covered with snow, 
and " Soracte stat nive candidurn" 

In our drive we saw a man frog-fishing — or hunting — 
I don't know which it is called. He goes along the 
hollows in marshy or flooded ground and, with a stick, 
drives the poor frogs into a net fastened to the end 
of a long pole. 

In the evening to the theatre to see Tancredi again. 
There are, in this orchestra of thirty-five performers, 
five double-basses. I remarked that they are all with 
pegs, like those of the violoncello, instead of the rack- 
work universal in England. 

There is one singularity in the Italian ballet that 
I have not mentioned. In every company there are 
persons — generally two men and two women — dressed 



1815] ROME 243 

handsomely, but in a peculiar and fanciful style, 
different from all the others : the men with bare arms 
and necks, and without any kind of mantle ; the 
women with remarkably short petticoats. The busi- 
ness of these persons is to display a great deal of agility 
by throwing themselves into all manner of ridiculous 
attitudes, spinning very high into the air, and coming 
down as if they would fall upon their faces. They 
are called ' ; groteschi." The men only look ridiculous 
and laughable ; but, to me, the women appear in- 
decent and disgusting. They are, however, great 
favourites with the Italian publick, and generally 
receive more applause than the best dancers. 

10th. — Walked with Especo to the Villa Lante, upon 
the Janiculum. It is from this point that Vasi's 
great view of Rome is taken. It is, in reality, the 
finest and most intelligible view of a towTi I have 
ever seen. From this to Villa Poniatowsky. There 
are three casinos. In one of them there are some 
beautiful casts, and a superb colossal head of Marius. 
The rooms are plainly but well furnished in the styles 
of different countries — Turkish, Egyptian, Tuscan, 
etc. This is a common way of furnishing apartments 
at Rome : Massimo's house is done so. 

nth. — I walked alone to the tomb of Caecilia 
Metella and the circus of Caracalla. From this I 
crossed the country to the temples of Bacchus and of 
the god Ridiculous, and to the grotto of Egeria, where 
Numa used to meet the goddess and receive her 



244 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

instructions for the government of his people. The 
temples are small and built of brick, but are of very 
remote antiquity. That of the god Ridiculous is 
said to have been built upon the spot from which 
Hannibal began his retreat from the city, terrified, 
as it is said, by prodigies — whence the " god Ridicu- 
lous." The grotto is in a picturesque spot, with a cool, 
refreshing look, but, like other things at Rome, it 
requires the aid of imagination to give it full effect, 
and, as in other antiquities, the date of the existing 
work is disputed. 

The country on this side, at less than two miles 
from the town, is completely neglected and waste, 
except close to the road. A few solitary houses are 
scattered over it ; but I walked up to some of them, 
on my way, and found them in ruins. In a walk of 
several hours I did not see a human being, nor almost 
a single living creature. 

12th. — The morning fine, but changed to great rain 
that prevented my going out of the house. 

13th. — With Especo to Villa Madama. It belongs, 
unfortunately, to the Crown of Naples, by which 
honor it has been permitted to fall into total ruin. 
There are frescos of Giulio Romano, that merit a better 
fate, perishing with the rest ; also some cartoons 
by him. 

We heard this morning an anecdote that disgraces 
our country, as far as it can be disgraced by the 
conduct of any individual. Mr. Rose, son of the 



i8i5] ROME 245 

Treasurer of the Navy, came to Rome with letters 
to Marchese Massimo. The second night of his being 
at the house, which is remarkable for strict attention 
to propriety of conduct, this gentleman brought with 
him, without previous notice or apology, a Venetian 
lady whom he met and travelled with on the road 
from Venice, and who has remained with him since 
his arrival. 

In the evening I went to Cardelli's, and thence to 
Torlonia's. Here, from half-past nine till nearly 
twelve o'clock, musick never ceased ; and all excel- 
lent. A priest executed a difficult song in a most 
spirited style ; and the lady who played Tancred 
sung several songs admirably well, being heard to 
great advantage in a room. Altogether, this was 
the best musick I have heard in Rome. 

At Torlonia's there was quite a crowd of English. 
About eleven o'clock they all, with one accord, took 
leave at the same moment. Mr. Chiaveri afterwards 
thanked me and another gentleman for not deserting 
with the rest of our countrymen, and said that he 
really did think, for a moment, that the house was in 
flames when they all fled with such precipitation. 

14th. — Amongst other places, to the Farnese Palace. 
I discovered here (what surprises me) that the Corin- 
thian supports the Ionic order, except over the entrance, 
where it is regular. 

In the evening I went, for the third time, to hear 
Tawrcdi. The company have removed to another 



246 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

theatre (Argentina). It is bad in decoration and, like 
most of the Italian theatres, is so shaped that nearly 
one-third of the spectators cannot see the stage. 
However, a gentleman beside whom I sat assured 
me that it was " una forma bellissima di teatro " ; and 
so it might be, if one had no wish to see the stage. 
Tancredi appears to me not to be great musick. 
Some of the airs are most charming, but they are 
all in the same style. 

15th. — Sunday. — To vespers at S. Peter's ; as usual, 
very good. 

16th. — Dreadful rain all day. I had made an agree- 
ment with the Countess Cardelli to read with her and 
teach her English, and I waited upon her this morn- 
ing for the first time. I found her, with her sister 
and a lady and gentleman, in a small bedchamber, 
where they had just finished dining ; they were stand- 
ing at a little table in a corner, each with a cup of 
coffee. They did not seem to be surprised by my 
appearing there among them, but received me politely 
and presented me with coffee. We sat in a bedcham- 
ber next to this and read a good deal. She under- 
stands English, to read it, tolerably well, and her 
sister has learned Latin. The ladies had each her 
vessel of charcoal on her arm, and all were wrapped 
in mantles and cloaks ; but there was no fire in the 
room. 

lyth. — Rained without ceasing all day. A gentle- 
man sat with us in the evening, who had been intro- 



1815] ROME 247 

duced to, and received on very familiar terms by the 
King and Queen of Spain. They complain bitterly of 
the manner in which they are imprisoned and watched 
here. There is a mechanical system of regularity in 
the movements of this family. The King rises at 
five minutes before five ; dinner is at half-past twelve, 
after which they all drive out in two carriages. There 
is musick in the evening, at which the King used to 
assist ; but he lately hurt his arm, and since that 
time he has been confined to turning over the musick 
for the leader. Besides this, he has no amusement 
except cabinet-making, in which he is said to have 
considerable skill. 

The Prince of the Peace * is confined at Pesaro by 
the desire of Ferdinand. 

18th. — To S. Peter's, where there was a service per- 

* Don Manuel de Godoy, born at Badajoz in 1767, commenced 
his career in the guards at Madrid. Being favoured by Charles IV, 
King of Spain, he was, while still very young, appointed to the 
Council of State. He was a man of many intrigues, and although, 
as was said, privately married to Dona Josef a Tudo, he married, 
publicly, Dona Theresa de Bourbon. From the Queen, with whom 
he was also intimate, he obtained hints and information of im- 
portance on public matters, and in 1792, at the early age of twenty- 
five, he filled the post of Prime Minister, and promptly declared 
war against the Convention. The title of Prince de la Paix was 
conferred upon him in commemoration of the Treaty of Basle in 
1795. Popular feeling, however, ran strongly against the Minister, 
and he nearly lost his life in a popular disturbance in 1807, being 
saved only by the abdication of Charles IV in favour of his son — 
Godoy's safety being one of the stipulated conditions. The Prince 
of the Peace retired to Paris in 1835, enjoying a pension of 5000 
francs from Louis Philippe ; and he died there on the 4th October, 
1851. 



248 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

formed with organ, violoncello, and double-bass. 
Several principal singers were added to the usual 
choir, and a number of chorus singers. Two of the 
new voices were quite heavenly and extremely well 
managed. The musick was very good, but, in general, 
light enough for any opera. 

In the evening to Valle, to hear Rossini's Italiana 
in Algieri. I was greatly delighted. It is good 
throughout, but one air is absolutely divine. I never 
witnessed so powerful an effect as this air produced 
on the whole audience ; all seemed as if afraid to 
breathe during the softer passages, while involuntary 
and half-suppressed exclamations were bursting from 
every part of the house. It was encored — a thing 
that rarely occurs, and repeated with, if possible, 
increased effect. The first woman, who sung this 
song, is very good, but not great. The first man, 
without much voice, sings in a pure, chaste style. 
The overture seems to me full of conceits. There is, 
however, one noble passage in it which was received 
with a burst of rapture. It is to be remembered that 
this opera has now been running for many nights to 
crowded houses — of, chiefly, the same persons present 
to-night. I have often accused the Italians of care- 
lessness and inattention at their opera, but I never 
saw an audience display one-quarter of the feeling 
they did to-night. They seemed to hang upon every 
sound, and to follow the musick simultaneously 
through all its inspiration. Rossini's musick is nothing 



i8i5] ROME 249 

but melody ; the accompaniments are perfectly 
simple. 

igtk. — I heard two of Haydn's and two of Mozart's 
quartetts, performed, at Sir W. Chatterton's lodgings, 
by the leader of La Valle and some of the orchestra 
whom he brought with him. The violoncello good. 
The leader, for a professor, rough and weak, exercised 
his fancy by giving us whole passages that were not 
in the book, much to the injury of Haydn, who is not 
easily improved. 

20th. — Through the gardens of the Palace Colonna, 
which are extensive and fine. 

Last night it snowed in the town. To-day there 
were heavy showers of snow, hail and sleet. The 
country around is white, and at this moment so are 
the sheltered streets and tops of houses. 

21st. — I passed two hours in the Vatican Museum, 
forty minutes of which I gave to Canova's Perseus and 
Pugilists. 

Through S. Peter's, and then to the Contessa 
Cardelli, with whom I sat, read and talked for a long 
time. 

Day cold, with hail showers ; the country covered 
with snow. 

22nd. — Sunday. — To hear vespers at S. Peter's. 

23rd. — I had a good deal of conversation with a 
bookseller on different subjects. I asked him how it 
happened that the translations of foreign works lately 
published in Italy were all from Milan. His answer 



250 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

was, because it has been the capital of the French 
kingdom. It is a provoking truth that our late suc- 
cesses have extinguished some active governments, 
and put an end to many growing and most valuable 
improvements in this part of the world. 

In the evening to Argentina. There was a new 
opera, composed expressly for this carneval, and as 
heavy and tiresome a performance it was as ever 
I endured. I became convinced to-night, of what I 
have long suspected, that the Romans have no idea 
of what good violin playing is. There was, by way of 
symphony to a song, a long unmeaning violin solo, 
with commonplace, easy, running passages. The per- 
former was without any of the marks of a good player 
— weak and unsteady ; yet the people were in raptures. 

To-night, at the close of the ballet, the audience 
shouted and cried " Bravo ! " till the conductor came 
forward to return his thanks by the humblest gestures. 
Indeed, the submission of performers here is ridiculous. 
Upon the slightest mark of approbation they come 
forward and make their most respectful bows and 
curtesies. When Caffarelli once took the liberty of 
singing carelessly to a careless audience, he was dragged 
to prison (by what right, even in this country, I cannot 
imagine), and brought from thence to the stage for 
several nights, till by ample submission he had appeased 
his tyrants. 

Great preparations making for the Carneval, which 
commences to-morrow with the horse-racing. 



i8is] ROME 251 

24th. — I went this morning with Sir W. Chatterton 
and Gabrielli to see a fine statue of Tiberius lately 
found, together with a quantity of other remains, at 
the ancient Yeii. This statue is greatly admired by 
Canova and the Cognoscenti, who agree in pronouncing 
it superior to the " Tiberius " of the Vatican. They 
value it at 3000/. of our money. It is in the finest state 
of preservation — and the clay is not yet washed off. 

From this we went to an artist who has all the 
valuable pieces of the famous Ruspoli gallery. The 
group of The Graces is the finest of this subject that 
exists, being much better preserved than that at 
Sienna. The English purchasers are getting some 
good things out of this collection. 

To-day the amusements of the Carneval commenced ; 
but the Pope forbids masks the first two days. 

At half-past four o'clock, upon the firing of a signal 
gun, the Corso was cleared of carriages, and a space 
was made for the horses to pass through the crowd. 
At the third signal the horses were led out, to the 
sound of trumpets, and stationed behind a strong rope 
drawn across the street, about four feet from the ground. 
The horses, which are always without riders on these 
occasions, seemed almost mad with anxiety to start. 
They were held, each by three men — two holding the 
tail, and one the head ; and yet they plunged with 
such violence that one of them threw himself over the 
rope, in spite of his grooms. There were five horses 
to-day, all ornamented with plumes and light trap- 



252 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

pings ; gilt paper or foil is flying about them, and 
little balls hang down at their sides, covered with 
sharp points to spur them on. When the signal was 
given the rope fell and the horses dashed forward, 
running very fast and jostling each other a good deal. 
The winner receives a flag and some yards of rich 
brocade. 

Formerly, the nobility kept Arabian horses for these 
races, but now the want of money is felt in this as 
in other things, and the coursers of to-day were but 
sorry nags. Scaffolding was raised along the street 
for spectators, and, as usual on all grand occasions 
in this country, tapestry and long pieces of silk were 
hung out of the windows. The racing will be repeated 
to-morrow ; Thursday will be holiday, and then begins 
the masking. 

25th. — I made to-day a great round of sight-seeing. 
First through the loggie and chambers of Raffaelle, 
then to the library. There was, until lately, in this 
library one of the balloons sent up from Paris at the 
coronation of Napoleon. It descended near Rome in 
twenty-three hours. It has been sent back into France. 

To the Palace Spada. There is a valuable gallery 
of pictures, but the curiosity of the place is the identical 
statue at whose base the mighty Caesar fell in the 
senate house. So every man of a true spirit must 
believe when he sees it ; but, in truth, the foundation 
for this belief is very slight, amounting to little more 
than that Caesar fell at the base of a statue of Pompey 



1815] ROME 253 

in the senate house, and this statue was found near 
that spot. Some wicked antiquarians go so far as to 
deny that the statue is of Pompey at all ; but on this 
point the weight of evidence is certainly against them. 
It is a colossal statue in good preservation, and it 
may, after all, be the very statue. 

Once, when the tragedy of Julius Caesar was per- 
formed at Rome, this was brought upon the stage, 
and Caesar died at its feet. This was in the year 1799, 
when the French occupied Rome. The theatre was 
a temporary one, erected in the arena of the Colossaeum, 
and the tragedy was Voltaire's Brutus. The bar- 
barians sawed off the extended arm, in order to trans- 
port the statue with greater facility, and joined it 
again to the body after each removal. 

There was no race to-day, as was expected — this 
being some festival. 

26th. — The race in the Corso took place again to- 
day, just as the day before yesterday, but no masks. 



CHAPTER XI 
NAPLES 

CIRCUMSTANCES having occurred that make 
it necessary for me to return to England 
without delay, I have resolved to run down 
to Naples for a fortnight ; and accordingly 
I set out to-morrow, with a gentleman whose plans 
fortunately agree with mine, both for the Naples 
excursion and for the journey to England. 

We have hired a little German carriage on four 
wheels, that nearly touches the ground. It holds 
two persons and their luggage conveniently and, 
in fine weather, comfortably ; but, in wet, a leather 
curtain closes across the front, so as to exclude both 
light and air, but not the rain. We travel under the 
care of a man who takes passengers between Rome 
and Naples, in a good kind of post-coach that holds 
four, each of whom pays twenty crowns. We are 
received upon the same terms. It is a very pleasant 
way of making the journey on this road. The man 
was formerly courier to Ferdinand of Naples ; and 
he is now permitted to travel upon his own account 
with all the authority and privileges of a courier, 

254 




ANNA. DAUGHTER OF THE VERY REV. DEAX GRAVES, 
AFTERWARDS MRS. JOHN MAYNE 

Esq., M.D. 



From a miniature in the possession of Abm. Colle 



1815] NAPLES 255 

which gives him a full command of postmasters and 
postilions. 

Rome to Naples. — January 27th. — We left Rome at 
four o'clock in the morning. Passing over the Pontine 
Marshes we saw multitudes of wild fowl and immense 
herds of wild buffaloes. While we were on a rough 
road and at full gallop one of our wheels flew off, and 
we now found that the despised humility of our little 
noddy was probably the saving of our bones, for we 
drove at least thirty yards over the stones before our 
flaming steeds could be stopped. 

At half-past six o'clock in the evening we reached 
Terracina, situated under the rock on which stood 
the ancient Anxur. I cannot tell whether, in former 
days, Anxur was " saxis lati candentibus " really, or 
only poetically, but at present it is far otherwise. 
One traveller conjectures that, when Horace wrote, 
there must have been recent excavations, which gave 
the rock a white appearance ; another writer boldly 
asserts that it is white now. 

The inn at Terracina is good, and my bedroom was 
situated over the roaring Mediterranean. Our supper 
well served, and beds, as everywhere else, excellent 
and clean. 

From Rome to this the road is, in general, abomin- 
able, and not surpassed by anything I have met — 
always excepting the never-to-be-forgotten mountain 
torrent between Florence and Rome, on the Sienna 
road. To make this the more agreeable the ordinary 



256 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

rate of posting, since we set out, has been a full 
gallop. 

28th. — We had a pitched battle, to send us off 
pleasantly this morning. Our bill was brought in, 
eleven crowns for four persons for dinner and beds. 
This we refused to pay, and gave the waiter five. We 
went down to our carriages, but while we were getting 
in he threw the money upon the seat, and when, in 
a few minutes, we came to look for it, there were but 
three crowns there. The innkeeper refused to allow 
us to go on till the bill was settled, and off we set to 
the Commandant of the town, who received us with 
every politeness ; but, this matter not coming within 
his province, he referred us to a magistrate, then, un- 
fortunately, twelve miles off, and, after an hour's 
delay and righting, we were obliged to compromise the 
business and give two more crowns. By taking this 
they, in fact, confessed (what we felt sure of) that they 
had stolen the two crowns that were missing, for 
otherwise they had now, at last, but five. 

We were off at half -past seven. There has been 
some desperate robbery on the frontiers of the Roman 
and Neapolitain territories. The Commandant sent to 
offer us an escort ; but we did not choose to be mur- 
dered, and refused to take any. On the road we 
met some carriages and persons on horseback, with 
soldiers. 

From Terracina to Mola di Gaeta is the most dan- 
gerous part of the road, affording the greatest facilities 



1815] NAPLES 257 

for attack and retreat. The road runs sometimes close 
to the shore, and sometimes through a wood, along 
the foot of a bleak mountain. To relieve the appre- 
hension any of us might entertain, the spots were 
pointed out to us where different affairs had taken 
place. Here two carriages had been drawn into the 
wood and plundered ; there two of the banditti had 
been shot. We met some of the armed police out ; 
and at Mola we saw a party of eight sbirri, setting out 
upon an expedition. We were assured that all these 
men had, not long since, belonged to the other side. 
They act largely here upon the maxim, " Set a thief 
to catch a thief." 

We arrived at the Garigliano, formerly Liris, the 
" Tacit umus amnis" of Horace, just half -an -hour 
too late to cross the bridge of boats ; the rain, which 
had fallen in great quantity during the day, having 
swelled this peaceably inclined stream into a roaring 
torrent — to such uncertainties are all the rivers in this 
country subject. A gentleman once told me that he 
had been delayed several days at one side of the Po, 
in sight of the town to which he was going at the 
opposite side, and was, at last, obliged to travel 
forty miles round. Our Garigliano, that is described 
by the poet as " silently biting with its waters the 
rich banks," was now rushing with a loud noise from 
the mountain, covered with huge masses of earth and 
floating trees of great size, any one of which, striking 
against one of the boats, might seriously have en- 



258 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

dangered the whole bridge. Men were walking back- 
wards and forwards, to be upon the spot in case of such 
an accident. After remaining two hours at the river's 
side, and using every means to induce the guardians 
of the flood to endeavour to get us over, we were 
obliged to return eight miles to Mola, in the dark. 
The inn good ; the people civil, and our bargain made 
by the courier to prevent another quarrel. 

29th. — Although the night was fine, yet we received, 
by a messenger whom we sent on early in the morning, 
the intelligence that the river was still impassable, 
and would probably continue so till evening or next 
morning. 

We spent the day rambling through the Formian 
hills, the beauty of which amply repaid us for our 
vexatious delay. Nothing could be more delightful 
than the surrounding scenery. A bay, encircled by the 
most picturesque hills, interspersed with villages and 
covered with olives and orange and lime groves 
stretching down to the water's edge. Hedges entirely 
formed of laurestina and myrtle, a luxuriant verdure, 
and (to complete the charm) a day of the warmest 
summer glow, spreading over the scene its richest 
colouring. The heat was too great for walking, and 
we sat and lay upon the ground to enjoy the views, 
without feeling the slightest inconvenience. Our 
gratification was heightened by reflecting upon the 
probable twenty-ninth of January in our own country. 
In view were Ischia and Procida, with Vesuvius and, 



i8i5] NAPLES 259 

immediately under our feet, the site of Cicero's Formian 
villa and the scene of his tragical end. 

On returning to our inn at five o'clock we heard 
that the river had been passed by a calash ; but our 
guide would not attempt it, and we were obliged to 
content ourselves as well as we could. 

In the evening our host brought up his son, a little 
boy, into our room and made him play airs upon the 
guitar, which were very pretty. He afterwards played 
waltzes, and a young lady, the daughter of a Roman 
shopkeeper, one of our travelling party, danced with 
the waiter. She begged the favour of my company 
in a dance, but as waltzing had never entered into 
the plan of my studies, and I had no great ambition 
to take the waiter's place, I declined the honor. She 
then proposed to dance English dances with me ; 
but I was not in a dancing mood, and with some 
difficulty excused myself. We sat during the evening 
with our windows open, and afterwards brought our 
chairs out into a balcony in front of the house, where 
we remained till near eleven o'clock. 

30ft. — We left Mola at five o'clock and, happily, 
passed this troublesome Garigliano without further 
difficulty. We breakfasted at Capua on omelet and 
figs, for which this country is celebrated, and shewed 
our passports, for the dozenth time, at least, since we 
entered the kingdom of Naples. 

We experienced considerable difficulty in the Neapo- 
litan! language. A Roman boy who is with us had 



260 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Jan. 

some trouble in conversing with the postilions, and one 
of them told him that " the Italians do not under- 
stand the Romans." 

From Capua to Naples the road is unexceptionally 
good, and the country beautiful and rich beyond all 
imagination. 

Naples. — We entered Naples at half-past three 
o'clock and, after some difficulty, succeeded in procur- 
ing indifferent bedchambers in the Hotel dell' Aquila 
d'Oro. It is the system here, as at Paris, for all the 
world to dine and breakfast at the trattorie, though 
you may have dinner brought to your hotel or lodging. 
In summer the latter plan may be pursued with ad- 
vantage, as you are sure by it of not having things 
too hot. 

We dressed, therefore, on our arrival and went to 
one of the most fashionable of these places. The 
waiter, who saw us hesitating among dishes the names 
of which we had never seen before, told us that, if we 
pleased, he would bring us a little dinner of a few 
dishes. To this we readily consented, and dish 
succeeded dish till there were at least twenty dishes 
upon the table, for four persons. For this (including 
excellent wines of different kinds and paying waiter) 
the price was about twelve paoli, or less than six 
shillings a head. 

In the evening we went to the theatre Nuovo. There 
was an indifferent little opera, in a small house, fitted 
up in wretchedtaste and covered with heavy gilding. 



i8i5] NAPLES 261 

31st. — Breakfasted at a trattoria — most uncomfort- 
ably. People in this country have no idea that a 
man wants more for breakfast than a little thimbleful 
of coffee or chocolate and a morsel of bread. 

After breakfast we went down to the Chiaja^and 
great publick walk, which is, beyond all comparison, 
the finest thing of the kind I have seen. In the center 
of the principal walk is placed the famous group of 
the Farnesian Bull. The Chiaja is the most fashion- 
able place of residence at Naples, and certainly one of 
the most charming in the world. The principal street, 
the Toledo, is the finest on the Continent. It is nearly 
a mile in length, wide, well paved (or, rather, flagged) 
with lava, and usually crowded with carriages and 
foot passengers. The buildings, though high, are, 
however, ugly and mean, and the shops despicably 
poor. We do not see many of the lazzaroni in the 
streets, and I should suppose that a French Govern- 
ment must have greatly thinned their numbers. 
Galley slaves, chained and guarded, meet us at every 
turn. 

We visited the great publick gallery of statues and 
paintings. The paintings are numerous, but not very 
interesting, except for the Neapolitain school — if the 
term may be used. Of the statues, the Farnesian 
Hercules is, no doubt, very fine, but it gives me no 
pleasure ; I cannot help thinking it exaggerated. 
The Flora is one of the most beautiful statues I have 
seen : the Apollo himself has not more of the real 



262 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

spring of life; and, although of colossal size, it is 
peculiarly light and graceful. Aristides is per- 
fection itself. Canova has marked the several points 
from which it may be studied to the greatest advan- 
tage. This statue is so much injured by fire as to 
render it impossible to make a cast from it, and this 
adds, in no slight degree, to its intrinsic worth. The 
two equestrians (Balbus) are very good. One of the 
riders had his head carried off by a cannon-shot from 
Nelson's fleet ; the statue stood at that time in the 
King's garden at Portici. 

In the evening we went to another theatre, where 
the entertainment was on the plan of our English 
opera — songs mixed with dialogue ; the singing not 
very excellent. 

February ist. — To Sannazar's tomb, and then to 
Virgil's, in which I read some of his First Georgick, 
and gathered leaves to preserve in my book. The 
whole world should not persuade me, now, that this 
is not Virgil's tomb. 

To the grotto of Pausilipo, a road or vaulted gallery 
bored through a great hill. It is half-a-mile in length, 
fifty feet high and thirty broad. Although so large 
an opening admits a vast body of light at the ends, 
yet it is necessary to keep a dozen of great lamps 
always burning ; and, after all, it is so dark in the 
middle that you can hardly distinguish a carriage 
coming towards you. The wonder of this work beats 
the Simplon galleries all to nothing. 



i*iS] NAPLES 263 

We visited the catacombs — the first I have been 
in. They extend several miles under ground, and 
are interesting and curious ; but there is something 
extremely disagreeable, and almost amounting to a 
feeling of disgust and horror, in quietly traversing, 
by the glaring light of torches, these wide domains of 
the dead, surrounded on all sides by the scattered 
bones and disturbed skeletons of thousands. We felt 
it so, and were glad to return to living objects and 
daylight. 

The buildings at Naples are an extravagant mixture 
of every kind of barbarous architecture that ingenuity 
can devise. The taste is universally depraved. In 
every piazza (or, as it is called here, largo) there 
stands a clumsy, ill-shaped stone candlestick, generally 
supporting a gilt virgin or saint. The insides of all 
the buildings, and many of the outsides, are be- 
daubed with gold and gaudy colours. In short, gold 
hides every defect here, and atones for every fault. 
The clothes of the lower classes of people, both men 
and women, are covered with it in the shape of border- 
ing, flowering, lacing, and embroidery. The cupolas 
of churches are done with little octagon shingles — 
red, purple, gold and silver. 

In the evening to the theatre of S. Carlo, which 
is generally considered the finest in the world. Except 
the Milan theatre, I have never seen any that can 
bear comparison with it ; but although I was, at 
first, greatly struck by its splendour, I now like La 



264 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

Scala better. The shape of S. Carlo is not, in my 
opinion, so elegant ; and the decorations are certainly 
inferior in taste. Neapolitain glare has crept in here, 
and gilding and rich ornaments are too profusely em- 
ployed. 

The orchestra has seventy performers. There are 
ten double-basses and seven violoncellos. It appears 
to me perfectly good ; the whole moves, even in the 
loudest parts, with the smoothest, sweetest tone, like 
a single instrument. The leader's name is Festa. 
The opera to-night — Medea, by Mayer. I was not 
greatly pleased with it, nor, indeed, with the singing 
neither, which was certainly good, but inferior to what 
I have heard, and the house is miserable for hearing. 
Ballet most indifferent. 

2nd. — To Pompeii. I had been greatly mistaken 
as to the nature of what is to be seen here, and 
had really supposed that we were to descend under- 
ground and be conducted through some old ruins 
and buildings, to be seen either by torchlight or by 
light admitted through an opening above. What, 
then, was my astonishment and delight at finding 
myself in a town as open to the heavens as Naples itself, 
where we traversed streets, forums and gardens, 
entered the temples, halls of justice and private houses, 
shops, bakehouses and cellars ; in short, where we 
were in a Roman town such as it appeared seventeen 
centuries ago. If you can imagine a great town de- 
serted by all its inhabitants, stripped of its moveables, 



i8i5] NAPLES 265 

and with the roofs of its buildings lifted off — such, 
precisely, is Pompeii. One sees mosaick floors, baths, 
fountains, the names of the owners of the houses, and 
scribbling of names and attempts at drawing in various 
places — particularly by the loungers in the lobbies 
of the amphitheatre. The leading street from one of 
the gates is opened, and some of those branching from 
it. The tracks of carriage wheels are visible every- 
where, in some places very deep. One of the most 
interesting parts is the street of the tombs, outside of 
the gate. Some of them look as fresh and white, as. 
if the marble had just come out of the artists' hands. 
There is a superb amphitheatre, but it is not quite 
cleared ; they told us it would still require four months' 
labour. In one of the underground passages there 
were found, about a fortnight ago, twenty-four skele- 
tons. In the cellar of a kind of casino, in a garden, 
we saw a number of earthen jars ranged along the 
wall ; Sir William Hamilton opened one of them and 
found the wine still in it. In this cellar were dis- 
covered the remains of seventeen persons, probably 
the family, who retired here for safety ; one of them 
grasped a handful of gold ; necklace and bracelets 
were on another. 

Everything to be seen or heard of in this town, 
so miraculously preserved for our gratification and 
instruction, excites a degree of interest that I have 
never before experienced, and the sights of this 
single day have made me feel more than all the anti- 



266 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

quities of Rome together. Our ideas of Roman mag- 
nificence are fully supported by the superb buildings 
and splendid decorations of this very inferior city. 
Pompeii is indebted for the state in which it is 
preserved to the manner of its destruction ; it was 
gradually filled up by a shower of a kind of pumice- 
stone like coarse gravel, which, from its light and dry 
nature, easily penetrated the inmost recesses of the 
buildings, and filled up every chink. I carried away 
a handful of this shower from the amphitheatre. I 
consider it a great curiosity, as I trust that there is no 
specimen of it in the Kingdom of Great Britain. 

In the evening there was a grand masked carneval 
ball at San Carlo. We had tickets ; but when we 
were dressed and setting out it was raining a Vltalienne, 
and (our valet being out of the way) the waiter, whom 
we sent for a carriage, made an accurate calculation 
of the chances for and against our getting to the ball 
without his assistance, the result of which was that 
we were to pay three crowns for a set-down about 
two hundred yards. We were so provoked at this 
gross imposition that we instantly dismissed the 
carriage, and, calling for candles, to the amazement 
of our calculator, walked quietly to our beds. 

yd. — We left Naples at eleven o'clock to ascend 
Vesuvius. At Portici, six miles from the town, we 
mounted mules and commenced the ascent. An hour 
brought us to the Hermitage, a single house on the 
mountain, inhabited by a hermit and his servant, 



i8i5] NAPLES 267 

who make a livelihood by waylaying and imposing 
on strangers that travel this way. The hermit was 
not in the house ; but his attendant forced us in 
and laid before us bread, wine, cheese, and fruit, for 
which, as he does not sell and would not name a price, 
we paid enormously. 

From this spot the view is magnificent ; on one side 
the whole extent of the bay, and beyond it the bay 
of Gaeta with its lovely shores — all this under a warm 
sun, glowing with a summer heat ; on the opposite 
side the Apennines rise, covered with snow. These 
are views not to be conceived by those who have not 
seen them. 

After a short delay we proceeded, and in half-an- 
hour more of increasing difficulty of ascent, during 
which I trusted to the prudent physiognomy of my 
mule and committed my safety to his judgment, we 
reached the spot from which our climbing was to 
begin. This part of the mountain is incredibly fatigu- 
ing. It is a regular cone, so steep and smooth that 
there are but two paths by which it can be ascended — 
by the favour of two old streams of lava. In the first 
quarter-of-an-hour we were forced to stop several 
times from want of power to proceed, and had I not 
felt assured that I could do what so many had done 
before me, I should certainly have given up in despair. 

Our toil continued, with short intervals of rest, for 
an hour-and-a-half, when we reached the brink of the 
crater and were amply rewarded. 



268 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

The present crater is a mile-and-a-quarter in circum- 
ference, and of depth unfathomable. This prodigious 
gulf was filled with volumes of smoke, ascending 
rapidly into the air and forming a vast chain of clouds. 
A noise was heard from the bottom like the roaring of 
the sea, which, at intervals, increased in loudness till, 
with an explosion, large stones were hurled into the 
air, attended with blacker and more tremendous 
volumes of smoke. Farther out than where we stood, 
large fissures have opened within the last two days ; 
and we stood upon the edge, up to our ancles in hot, 
wet sand, which has fallen in a shower within the same 
time. Every appearance indicates an approaching 
eruption, which some calculate upon as near as eight 
or ten days. We passed over the late crater, which 
is now closed and like the rest of the surface of the 
summit. The present one was only opened last year, 
on top of a hill three hundred feet high, formed by 
that eruption. The summit of the mountain is a 
rough plain, I suppose quarter-of-a-mile in breadth, 
covered with rocks/? Sulphurous smoke is bursting 
out from every part of it, in such quantity and strength 
that we were obliged to hold our noses passing through 
it ; and some of the rocks were so intensely heated 
that we could not hold our hands within a foot of 
them. 

I had expected that our return would be not only 
laborious but, from the extreme steepness, somewhat 
dangerous. I was, therefore, a little surprised when 



1815] NAPLES 269 

my guide set off at a run and jumped over the edge, 
from which, in an instant, he appeared a hundred 
yards distant. I quickly followed, and in ten minutes, 
exactly, I was at the spot from which I had climbed 
with infinite labour for an hour-and-a-half. The side 
is so perpendicular that, raising a foot and bringing 
it a little forward, you fall at least ten feet, and the 
ashes giving way carry you ten more, so that, without 
much exertion, you advance rapidly. The only care 
requisite is to lean well back and raise your foot high 
enough to avoid tripping, which might be a little 
awkward, for the smoothness is such that a stone 
let off from the top will roll to the very bottom. 

The day was as favourable as we could have de- 
sired. When we were going up, the sky was darkened 
and the summit of the mountain obscured, and the sun, 
piercing the clouds, cast a most splendid light upon 
the distant sea. Before we reached the top the clouds 
had passed away, and the sun shone brightly, illumin- 
ating the bay, the mountains, and the distant coast. 

I have now seen the Bay of Naples in many points 
of view, and under a bright as well as under a clouded 
sky. Allowing for the difference of magnitude, and 
considering the one as a miniature of the other, there 
is not, perhaps, any one view of it superior to the Bay 
of Dublin, with which we are accustomed to hear it 
compared. I speak of the latter as seen under a 
favourable sky and with a full tide ; but it is the 
height of injustice to the Bay of Naples to institute the 



270 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

comparison. It is 120 miles in circumference, instead 
of thirty ; and all the features, hills, mountains and 
islands, are, in the same proportion, greater. The fact 
is that it is only because Dublin Bay is in some degree 
a miniature of this, that it has ever been named with 
it ; but to compare them is ridiculous. Two advan- 
tages possessed by the Bay of Naples, independent of 
its sky, are invaluable. The one is the city, rising 
out of the water and most beautifully encircling the 
bosom of the bay ; if I were not a true Irishman, I 
might contrast with this Ringsend and the smoke of 
Dublin. The other advantage is still more important — 
that there is no tide, and the water being equally 
high, the view is at all times equally fine. It is, to be 
sure, contrived for the honor of our bay that, when- 
ever a stranger is unfortunate enough to arrive at low 
water, he must wait, though in sickness and anxiety, 
till bulls and bars are covered, and the scenery is 
displayed in all the beauty of a full tide. 

In the evening to San Carlo. The King and Queen 
were present. He is a gay, handsome man, but with 
no very genteel appearance. His hair, which is very 
dark, hangs in ringlets down upon his shoulders ; 
his eyes are remarkably small and bright. He wore 
a blue uniform without lace or embroidery, a medal 
and star, and a white cravat. The Queen is pretty, 
and her appearance delicate and most interesting. 
The Princess of Wales was present, and towards the 
end of the opera she went round into the royal box, 



i8i5] NAPLES 271 

kissed the Queen, and sat beside her for a long 
time. 

It is a matter of curiosity to look back upon our 
own history, and observe the customs which we have 
exchanged with the Continent. Kissing is very com- 
mon in France as a ceremony, and still more so in 
Italy. I have even seen gentlemen, meeting at a 
conversazione after a long absence, kiss each other ; 
this, however, seemed to be considered too affectionate, 
and did not pass without a smile. " Vi baccio le mani " 
is not yet become an exaggerated compliment. Gentle- 
men kiss the hands of ladies, and persons of inferior 
rank kiss the hands of both ladies and gentlemen. 
The following passage is from the life of Cardinal 
Wolsey, written by his gentleman usher, Cavendish. 
He attended the Cardinal on his embassy to France, 
and being sent on to the house of a gentleman upon 
the road, with whom he w r as to pass the night, he was 
received with much form by his hostess, " and when 
she and her traine was all come out, she saide unto 
me, ' For as much,' quoth she, ' as ye be an English- 
man, whose custome is to kisse all ladies and gentle- 
men in your country without offense ; although it 
is not soe here with us in this realme, yet I will be 
soe bould as kisse you, and soe ye shall doe all my 
maides.' By means whereof I kissed her and all her 
maides." 

The opera to-night was Ginevra di Scozia. There 
is an admirable arrangement in the pit of this theatre, 



272 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

which I have not seen before. It is divided by arms 
into seats which are all numbered ; the tickets like- 
wise are numbered — such a number of such a row. 
You then keep the ticket, going in ; and by this means 
you not only secure your seat for the whole night, 
but you may engage any particular place by sending 
for the ticket ; and all are sure of equal room, without 
the possibility of more being admitted than can be 
well accommodated. In all the Italian pits there are 
backs to the benches. 

4th. — To Herculaneum. Although this name is 
oftener heard than that of Pompeii, yet it presents 
far less of interest to the stranger. There is nothing 
to be seen but a theatre, which is descended into by 
torchlight and consists of passages and openings cut 
in the lava ; and from this alone it would require 
time and attention to form any idea of an ancient 
theatre. 

The most interesting thing to observe is the manner 
in which the destruction was effected here — so different 
from that at Pompeii : the one buried in a shower of 
gravel, the other in a flood of lava. It is, indeed, 
supposed that when Pompeii was covered, Hercu- 
laneum shared its fate ; on its site another town was 
raised which, being subsequently overwhelmed by a 
stream of lava, the lava sunk down and incorporated 
itself with the former volcanick matter. Portici is 
the third stratum of town — destined, perhaps, to be 
covered by a fourth. 



1815] NAPLES 273 

Greater quantities of marbles and more valuable 
things have been discovered here than at Pompeii, 
not only because the destruction here was too rapid 
to permit the inhabitants to carry away their effects, 
but because, in fact, the place was richer. The ex- 
cavations are going on ; but however interesting they 
may prove, all that can be done is to remove the 
statues, columns, paintings, or curiosities discovered. 
The openings must be again filled up, and with care, 
for Portici extends over Herculaneum, and would be 
exposed to a new kind of danger if the vaults under- 
neath were allowed to remain and extend. 

We next visited the royal Museum at Portici, where 
all the valuable things found at Herculaneum were 
formerly deposited. Part of them have been lately 
removed into the museum at Naples, and part carried 
away to Palermo by Ferdinand — to the great annoy- 
ance of those who do not visit Sicily. There are, 
besides other curiosities of Herculaneum here, a 
variety of workmen's tools, differing but little from 
those used at the present day. 

On our return we went through the libraries and 
shops of several booksellers. Books are here in great 
abundance and of every kind ; but as far as we could 
judge, through the imposition practised everywhere, 
they are sold dearer than at any place we have been 
in on the Continent. 

In the evening to theatre Fondo. There was a 
serious tragical comedy. The performance, by the 



274 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

best company in Italy, was admirable, and the piece 
(translated from the German) really affecting. The 
applause was most liberal, and continued after the 
curtain dropped until the two principal performers 
came forward to return their thanks. A light, enter- 
taining piece succeeded. 

$th. — We gave up this day to going about the town 
and seeing the masquerading. At three o'clock the 
Toledo was rilled with a double row of carriages, ex- 
tending into the streets at each end of it, and forming 
a line of at least three miles. Masking was not general, 
either among the foot passengers or in the carriages ; 
but there were many good groups, and about one- 
third of the carriages were filled with masks — the 
coachmen and footmen in masquerade dresses, and 
the carriages greatly ornamented. All the carriages 
are open ; and some, belonging to the publick offices, 
of monstrous size, containing three or four rows of 
seats rising one above the other, and most fantastic- 
ally shaped. 

The best group was formed by the Princess of 
Wales and her party.* She was in a long open carriage, 
built for the occasion, which was drawn by four white 
horses, and escorted by a number of gentlemen dressed 
as Cossacks and admirably mounted. The Princess 
was disguised as a goddess, and attended by about 

* The writer never speaks of the Princess of Wales in any other 
than a respectful tone. His remarks may be contrasted with those 
of the Comtesse de Boigne (Memoirs, iv., pp. 40-41). 



1815] NAPLES 275 

a dozen of nymphs. Unfortunately, it rained the 
whole time ; but no one seemed to mind it, and the 
crowd did not begin to separate till dark. The King 
drove through the streets with a splendid equipage. 
A principal part of the amusement of a masking day 
consists in throwing confetti ; these are little balls, 
the size of a small marble, made of some soft white 
plaister that makes a mark wherever it strikes. As you 
pass a carriage in the ring, with a masked party in it, 
they shout and point and throw themselves into some 
ridiculous attitude to put you off your guard and, 
the moment they succeed, you are sure to receive a 
volley of confetti in the face. 

In the evening to a great masked ball at San Carlo. 
The house was brilliantly illuminated, and the pit 
covered over and the stage opened to the back. This 
immense space was so crowded that one could with 
difficulty move about. The boxes, from top to bottom, 
were filled, the lower tier principally with masked 
parties. The wit exhibited at this entertainment was, 
if possible, less than at our own masquerades, and we 
were fully exposed to it, from being in plain clothes 
and English. I did not see a single attempt at sup- 
porting a character. 

Joachim and his Queen were present in the second 
tier of boxes over the stage. He and his aides-de- 
camp wore coloured clothes. His dress was a light 
green inside coat, with a velvet surtout of a still lighter 
green lined with fur. He seemed to enjoy the scene, 



276 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

and very good-humouredly answered the salutations 
of the masks as they crowded under his box. The 
Queen did not attend much to what was passing. She 
seems pensive and abstracted, whether from general 
habit or not, I don't know. 

We returned home at half-past one o'clock in the 
morning, changed our dress, and left Naples before 
three. 

Naples, with the advantage of its bay, is, I suppose, 
the most beautiful city in the world. 

The exterior of the town, to be sure, is ugly, dirty, 
and confined ; but the Toledo is a noble street, and 
a considerable portion of the building is along the 
water, and this is all very fine. The Chiaja alone 
would be sufficient to redeem the ugliest town that 
ever was built. The population is immense, and ex- 
hibits the bustle and activity of the most crowded 
parts of London. The buildings are, almost without 
exception, in the worst imaginable style of archi- 
tecture. 

Of society our stay was too short to permit us to 
attempt anything ; but the King keeps a splendid 
court, and pleasure seemed to form the whole employ- 
ment of my acquaintances among the English, as well 
as the subject of all their conversation. I believe it 
to be the most idle, dissipated, luxurious, and profli- 
gate capital in Europe. 

In thirty-eight days there have been but two with- 
out rain. The English were complaining of the cold 



i8i5] NAPLES 277 

of December, for there are no fire-places in almost 
any of the houses, and a charcoal pan in the middle of 
the room, though it should, in reality, cause sufficient 
heat, would never make an Englishman think himself 
warm. 



CHAPTER XII 
HOMEWARD 

Naples to Rome. — February 6th. 

WE left Naples before three o'clock in the 
morning, under the same guide who had 
travelled with us from Rome; there 
were three carriages in company. When 
we hadjbeen about an hour on the road one of the 
carriages broke down and caused a considerable delay. 
An hour afterwards I was roused by a shouting and, 
looking out, I saw the same unfortunate vehicle flat 
upon its side, and its master, an old Italian gentleman 
in his night-cap, creeping on his hands and knees into 
the mud. A Genoese, a very pleasant man, who now 
travelled in the carriage with me, looked out ; but 
instead of offering to assist, he quietly said, " Ah, 
Poverino ! mi fa pieta" and then composed himself 
to sleep in the corner. With some difficulty it was 
set to rights, and we proceeded ; but in the course 
of the day, to finish the chapter of accidents, our 
carriage came down and kept us two hours on the 
road. Our Genoese, relating these misfortunes to 
our host at night, expressed himself, " Abbiamo sofferto 

278 



1815] HOMEWARD 279 

tutte le disgrazie del mondo." These complicated mis- 
haps prevented our getting farther to-night than our 
old residence at Mola, two posts from Terracina. We 
were well entertained, and spent a very pleasant 
evening. 

yth. — We started early, but the number of examina- 
tions of passports and custom-house delays obliged us 
to travel till eleven o'clock at night, in order to reach 
Velletri. The last two posts were generally through 
woods, and our conductor would not proceed without 
an escort of three sbires, to protect us against twenty- 
eight robbers who, they assured us, were in these 
woods. Of course we saw none, but as long as sbires 
are left at the post-houses, to bargain with travellers 
and get a crown each for riding a few miles, the woods 
will never be without robbers. 

At Velletri our entertainment was in all respects 
as good as we could have desired ; but we, Englishmen, 
were charged ten pauls, while our Italian friends paid 
but seven. We thought this difference so reasonable 
(it usually being the double or treble) that we paid it 
without a murmur. 

8th. — We arrived early in Rome, and thus termin- 
ated an excursion from which I had promised myself 
much pleasure, and that far exceeded my utmost ex- 
pectations. 

Rome. — 10th. — I visited the study of Camuccini. 
He seems, by universal suffrage, to be ranked as the 
first historical painter now in Italy. We saw a great 



280 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

many paintings — both original works and copies of 
Raffaelle's made for his own improvement. I was not, 
upon the whole, greatly pleased with them ; but I 
certainly see new paintings under the disadvantage 
of not understanding sufficiently what part of the 
glare and rawness is to be attributed to the newness, 
and what to the bad colouring of the artist. The 
Romans say that Camuccini's drawing is very little 
inferior to that of Raffaelle. 

nth. — To see the great fresques of Annibal Caracci, 
in the Farnese Palace. I have seen no fresco painting 
that gave me more pleasure. 

12th. — We heard to-day an anecdote that is another 
proof of the improvement to be expected under the 
papal government. In the time of the French the 
cow-pock was encouraged in every possible way, and 
a premium of two paoli was given to everyone who 
brought an infant to be inoculated. It is now so 
entirely extirpated that the Marchesa Massimo, wishing 
to have her child inoculated, is forced to send to Milan 
for the infection. 

13^. — I heard vespers in S. Peter's, and then bade 
farewell to this divine structure — probably for ever. 

We descended into the subterraneous part, in which 
there are tombs of Popes and other great men; 
amongst them those of Cardinal York, James III, 
and Charles III. 

14th. — I left Rome. As I had passed through Florence 
and Sienna in going to Rome, and my friend had taken 




M'k. JUS! [CE MAYNE 
From a miniature bv Comerford in the possession oj Mrs. Broke 



i8i 5 ] HOMEWARD 281 

the Perugia road, we now varied our route — at once 
crossing the Alps and coming down upon the coast 
of the Adriatick at Fano. 

On the eighteenth we reached Bologna at one o'clock, 
and spent the remainder of the day in revisiting some 
of the best galleries of paintings. The winter here 
had been severe, and snow was still lying in heaps in 
the courts of palaces and other sheltered spots. We 
did not, however, find any snow upon our road. 

The route from Bologna to Rome by Rimini and 
Fano is. for those who do not want to go through 
Florence, in all respects preferable to the other. The 
mountain is less, both in quantity and difficulty ; 
the drive along the Adriatick is extremely fine, and 
Umbria is quite enchanting. 

I must confess, however, that our pleasure was con- 
siderably diminished by the rascality and attempts at 
imposition everywhere, until we arrived at Bologna. 
At every second post-house we had a battle for a 
fourth horse,* against all law, and we were several 
times forced to apply for redress to a magistrate. 
Bargains made at night were denied in the morning ; 
postilions were knavish and insolent ; in short, we 

* This particular " imposition " seems to have been hard to 
kill. It was still in vogue when Mr. Mayne visited the Continent 
seven years later with his father and other members of his family. 
The indignation, on that occasion, of his sister Dorothea at being 
deprived of one of " quatre chevaux " paid for, found an expres- 
sion which passed into a household phrase : "I have paid for my 
cat, and I will have my cat ! " 



282 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

were kept in a raging fever from morning till night. 
It was our ill fortune to travel so early in the season ; 
for the innkeepers, postmasters, and postilions, seeing 
but few travellers during the winter, think it fair to 
indemnify themselves by a heavy tax upon the first- 
comers of spring ; besides, as there was no run upon 
the road, the postmasters could always well spare 
us a fourth or even fifth horse, which might as well 
attend us as lie in the stable. Several times they forced 
an additional horse upon us, in spite of us — and we 
never paid for him. 

Through the north of Italy we travelled with an 
amazing speed. From Rimini to beyond Milan the 
roads are perfectly level and admirably kept, the horses 
excellent ; not a moment is lost at the post-houses, 
and the drivers are of so elastic a nature that, by a 
judicious application of the soldi, they may be stretched 
out to racing speed. We made our journey of nearly 
ioo miles to reach Milan in time for the opera, which 
we accomplished. We ran off, the instant we arrived, 
in our travelling dresses, were in the theatre at eight 
o'clock, returned and supped at twelve, and were 
off the next morning at four. 

The first person I saw upon the stage was Trariiez- 
zani — to my great surprise, not knowing he had left 
England. He was not heard well in the house, and no 
attention is paid here even to the most favourite 
singers, except in particular songs or in a new opera. 

Turin. — On the 22nd we arrived at Turin. There 



i8i 5 ] HOMEWARD 283 

is nothing here worthy of attention, except the out- 
side of the town, and the theatre, the shape of which 
has been the model of the best theatres in Italy. 

We left Turin at twelve o'clock on the 24th, and 
reached Susa about seven in the evening. It had been 
our intention to sleep here ; but a large English party 
was already arrived, and the sky being perfectly 
clear, we determined to enjoy the novelty of ascending 
Mont Cenis by moonlight. 

I never was more completely gratified. The solemn 
stillness of the hour ; the tremendous scenery of rocks, 
torrents and precipices amidst which we continued to 
wind in every direction, sometimes returning along 
the face of the mountain by a road but a few yards 
above that which we had last trodden ; the village 
of Susa immediately under us, with its river winding 
through the valley ; the long interminable line of Alps, 
covered with snow and illuminated by the moon — all 
this awakened in us ideas that must be felt to be 
understood. 

Two hours and a-half brought us to Novalese ; so 
far, scarcely any snow. The inn at Novalese is com- 
fortable, and we were civilly and well entertained. 

Early next morning we proceeded upon our ascent. 
From Novalese the mountain was covered with snow 
many feet deep, but frozen so hard that our wheels 
seldom sunk more than a few inches. We were, how- 
ever, attended by two men walking beside the carriage 
and holding cords attached to the top, to support us 



284 THE JOURNArOF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

and prevent an upset in case the snow should prove 
treacherous in any spot. A great number of men 
were employed clearing away the snow, which they 
did by cutting away one half first — as a hill is levelled. 
We reached the summit in safety, and without ever 
dismounting for a moment. 

The descent is more alarming, especially in the state 
we found it, covered with ice ; for the precipice is 
quite open and unprotected, and the road not being 
an exact level, but (in order to throw off the water) 
sloping gently to the outer edge, our wheels were every 
moment sliding towards the precipice, and often so 
near as to try the strength of our nerves. To-night 
we sleep at San Michele. 

The passage of Mont Cenis is now performed with 
the greatest facility, and the safety and convenience 
of travellers is well consulted. Except after a fall 
of snow, carriages of every kind can pass with ease ; 
sledges and chairs must then be used, and the carriage 
taken to pieces, as formerly. Twenty-five houses of 
refuge are distributed on the most important points 
of the mountain, within bell-sound of each other. 
These are inhabited by seventy-five persons, whose 
sole employment is to attend to the repairing and 
clearing of the road, and to assist travellers. The 
houses are well stocked with flour and salt provisions 
at the commencement of the winter. The scenery is 
not, I think, at all so magnificent as that on the 
Simplon, nor so diversified. Still, there is in all these 



i8i 5 ] HOMEWARD 285 

great mountains, in snow, a sublimity that cannot 
fail to fill the mind with awe. 

At Turin the language of the people is a mixture 
of French and Italian ; from names of shops and 
advertisements it would be difficult to tell which was 
really the language of the country. From Turin the 
language gradually slides into the French, till, at Mont 
Cenis, our Italian was finally closed. We heard no 
more of it, and at the next post were not understood 
in it. From this spot, too, commence the conceit and 
insolence of French superiority. They despise their 
neighbours on the other side of the mountain, and it 
is a dire affront to ask any man or woman, " Are you 
Italian or French ? " 

We met a striking instance of this to-day. A 
postilion set out with us from San Michele, driving 
four-in-hand at full gallop. It was growing dark. We 
quickly perceived that he was drunk and, after several 
hair-breadth escapes, we insisted upon returning to 
the town. These postilions are under strict military 
discipline, and such misconduct, if known, would 
subject him to very severe punishment, if not to ruin. 
The man prayed and begged, almost out of his senses, 
that we would not insist on going back. He declared 
that, rather than return, he would desert and go to the 
mountains. He even, once, was proceeding to violence, 
and attempted by force to mount his horse and drive 
on. In the midst of his drunkenness, alarm, and 
terrified entreaties, with the most earnest manner and 



286 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Feb. 

in quite a tragedy tone, he said, " I give you my 
honor, sir, I am a Frenchman." For the honor of 
the great nation we compromised the matter. We 
returned and told the postmaster that we did not 
like going on in the dark ; and, in his hearing, gave 
directions to the postilion (who was now quite sober 
from fright) to be ready to drive us in the morning. 
We were heartily glad next day that we had not ex- 
posed the poor fellow, for he was a decent-looking 
man and seemed ashamed and truly penitent, and 
assured us that he had not been once drunk for years 
before. 

After being some days in the mountains among 
rocks and woods, and with snow everlastingly before 
my eyes, I cannot express the delight I experienced 
when we entered the delicious valley of Mt. Melian. 
I thought I should never have been tired of gazing 
on the green fields, which were then in their finest 
verdure. 

Chambery to Paris. — We pursued our journey from 
Chambery to Lyons, and then varied our route to 
Paris — going by Chalons, Macon, Dijon, Troyes 
Nogent, and Provins. 

From Dijon to Nogent we observed sad signs of 
the Austrian retreat in the last year. Throughout 
that country the single houses were levelled to the 
ground, and the half of every village was destroyed. 
At Nogent, the scene of a battle, the bridge was blown 
up, and the town, into its very center, half in ruins. 



i8i 5 ] HOMEWARD 287 

The people there crowded round our carriage, begging, 
and had every appearance of misery. A still more 
unpleasant mark of the campaign was in the roads, 
which were all cut into trenches by the guns and 
waggons. Our wheel slipping into one of these, as we 
were passing a waggon, struck against it and broke 
our crane-neck, which delayed us for half a day in the 
next village. 

Paris. — March 2nd. — We arrived in Paris at nine 
o'clock in the morning, the seventeenth day after 
our departure from Rome. 

Immediately after breakfast we ran off to the 
Louvre. On entering the hall we discovered that the 
annual exhibition of the works of living artists was 
now holding ; I was glad to have the opportunity of 
seeing this. There was a considerable number of 
casts, but few statues. The paintings in great quantity. 
In my judgment, there were very few pieces of great 
merit. The subjects were affected and extravagant, 
the figures distorted, the outlines hard and abrupt, 
the draperies stiff, and the colouring infamous. On 
the whole, I think the general taste in our London 
exhibitions superior ; but there is certainly this 
striking difference — that our collection contains little 
else than portraits and landscapes ; while here the 
majority were historical paintings, which evinces, at 
least, the endeavour to be great. They may succeed, 
but there are fearful odds against them. 

This evening we saw the comedy of the Marriage of 



288 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Mar. 

Figaro, in which Madelle. Mars played the part of 
Susanne inimitably ; and altogether this was the 
best supported comedy I have seen. Madelle. Mars 
reminds me greatly of Catalani in her comick parts. 

The following evening we saw the tragedy of Les 
TemplierSy in which Talma and Lafond played to- 
gether. Talma is the only man on the French stage 
whom I would call a great actor. His person is good, 
his countenance dignified and expressive ; his voice 
full, sweet, and excellently managed. He seemed to me 
particularly to excel in expressing strong emotion, and 
in energetick declamation. His manner very much 
resembles that of Kemble, but is not quite so studied ; 
and yet his gesture seemed to me less easy : but the 
rules of the French drama demand a studied, measured 
manner, and Talma finishes his performance so highly 
as to exhibit more of nature than is usual on the French 
stage ; while our drama, on the contrary, is guided 
by rules suggested by nature, and Kemble goes to the 
utmost limits of what our love of nature will endure. 
For this reason I would pronounce Talma the greater 
actor. 

Paris to Calais. — We left Paris the following day at 
one o'clock and slept at Chantilly, where I revisited 
the chateau and stables. 

Travelled all next night in order to reach Calais 
in time for the packet ; but, leaving Boulogne in the 
morning, a drunken postilion drove us against the 
town gate, and smashed our unfortunate carriage in 














MADEMOISELLE MARS 
From the collection of A. M. Broadley, Esq. 



i8i 5 ] HOMEWARD 289 

a deplorable way. This accident kept us till so late 
an hour that we did not enter Calais before ten (or 
indeed, I believe, eleven) o'clock at night. When 
we were driving up to the town, our postilion turned 
round and asked us whether we had a pass. This was 
the first time we had thought of such a thing, and 
he told us that, had he supposed we were without an 
order, he would not have come on, for that it was very 
probable the gates would not be opened to us at such 
an hour. We drove on, however, and after some ex- 
planation and entreaty on our part, and messages and 
negotiations within, the keys were brought down and 
we were allowed to pay our way through three or four 
gates. 

While we were waiting at Boulogne to have our 
carriage mended, two captains of packets strongly 
advised us to sail with them, instead of going on to 
Calais. Under the circumstances there would have 
been some convenience in adopting this plan, and 
I told them that, if we could dispose of our carriage 
advantageously here, I would go with them. One of 
them went to see about this, and in his absence I asked 
the other what he would charge for our passage. Such 
was his moderation that, notwithstanding our dis- 
tress, he only asked ten guineas each. When his 
friend returned I overheard him say, " They have 
been talking about price of passage." " Well," says 
the other, " what did you say ? " " Why, the 
carriage is so much broken that I said ten guineas." 



290 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN MAYNE [Mar. 

The friend shook his head, guessing, truly, that even 
though we were English and our carriage so much 
broken, we would not easily pay ten guineas where 
one might be considered unreasonable. 

Home. — We landed in England, after a rough pas- 
sage of five hours, March 8th, 1815. 

I have rarely felt more delighted than upon my 
return. It gave me such a feeling of happiness to be 
in my own country again, with English faces and 
English voices about me, that I was disposed to ad- 
mire although everything had not, indeed, been truly 
admirable. On the road to town every carriage, every 
horse, every house, and every person was interesting, 
and my attention was as completely engaged as it ever 
had been in a strange country where every object 
was wholly new. Abroad one feels that he has no 
interest in common with anything about him, and this 
feeling will, at times, dash his pleasure in what he 
sees. 

Fortunately for my safety, and for that of other 
English travellers who return to their native land with 
my feelings, a Dover and its custom-house are most 
judiciously placed in the way, to counteract the effects 
of a too excessive joy. 

We found them most effectual dampers, for after 
having been forced to pay half-a-guinea each for a 
boat to carry us ten yards, we were almost suffocated 
and pressed into the sand upon the beach by a crowd 
of noisy ruffians, who would have forced us to lodge 



1 



i8i 5 ] HOMEWARD 291 

that night in five hotels at the same time ; and having 
escaped this danger, we were stretched upon the rack 
at the custom-house, and, finally, cheated at our inn 
more than we had ever been in France or Italy. 



THE END 






INDEX 



INDEX 



Abbeville, 8 

Acquapendente, 157 

"Agnese," 121 

Amiens, 9 

Anderson, Captain, 172, 194 

Angouleme, Duke and Duchess of,24 

Augereau, Marshal, 71 

Bandinelli ; 144, 146 

Banditti, 2:3, 257 

Barberini, Princess, 189 

Baveno, 1 12 

Belgirate, 1:5 

Bellegarde, General, 119 

Bells on pos horses, 155 

Berry, Due, 43 

Bologna : Academy of Arts, 133 

— arrival at, 132 

— Cassini. Meridian of, 133 

— Church of S. Petronius, 133 

— description of, 132 

— palazzo Marescalchi, 133 

Tanari, 134 

Bologna, Giovanni di, 135 
Bonaparte, Lucien, 195 

— Madame Lucien, 104 

— Napoleon, popular affection for, 
16, 26, 29, 40, 66 

" Borbonius," 7^ 
Borromean Islands, 113 
"Boston," 195, 219 
Boubers, Vicomte, 13 



Boulogne, 7, 288 

Bracciano, Duke, 164, 172, 193, 

195, 209, 221, 
Breteuil, 9 
Briare, 58 
Brigue, 103, 105 
Brunelleschi, 146 
"Brutus," 174, 253 
Buonconvento, 154 



Bushe, C. K. 



57 



Cabriolet, 5 
Cafarelli, 250 
Calais : arrival at, 3 

— departure from, 5 

— impressions of, 4 
Campbell, Lady Charlotte, 94 
Camuccini, 279 

Canova, 149, 206, 219 

Canova's workshop, 197 

Capua, 259 

Caracci, 135, 280 

Cardelli, Countess, 1S3, 1S7, 197, 

199, 217, 223, 229, 240, 246 
"Carlotta and Verter," 151 
"Cassino," 219 
Cerdon, 80 

Chamblant, M., 38, 44 
Chantilly, 10 

Chatterton, Sir W., 249, 251 
Chiaveri, M., 164, 172, 173, 183, 

193. 195 
295 



296 



INDEX 



Church inscriptions, 174, 202, 203, 

229 
Cicero, orations of, 240 
Cicisbeism, 224 
"Cinna,»43 
Clermont, 10 
Collonge, 83 
Conde family, 12 
Cosne, 59 

Costume in Italy, ill, 130, 158 
Couston, 6$ 
Cultivation, 80 

Davoust, General, 27 

Davy, Sir H., 134, 183 

D'Enghien, palace of Duke of, 12 

Dessein's Hotel, 3 

Doria, Prince, 229 

Douane, 84, 116, 127, 131, 133, 

162 
Dover, departure from, 3 
Droitmier, 65 
Duomo d'Ossola, in 

Etruria, King and Queen of, 233 
Eustace, Mr., 209 
Evian, 98 

Fano, 281 

Fees to servants, 196 

Ferney, 92 

Ferry over Po, 126 

Ticino, 115 

Fesch, Cardinal, 216 

Filigare, 138 

Florence : alabaster work, 142 

— arrival, 141 

— baptistery, 143 

— church of S. Croix, 146 

S. Firenze, 148 

S. Lorenzo, 142 



Florence : church of S. Maria No- 
vella, 150 
Santo Spirito, 146 

— departure from, 153 

— description of, 151 

— duomo, 143, 149 

— gallery, 146, 148 

— Medici family, 143, 152 

— opera, 144, 151 

— "Pittore Amoroso, II," 144 

— Royal chapel, 143 
Fontainebleau, 54 
Formian hills, the, 258 
Fort la Cluse, 82 

Gallard, Sieur, 38 
Galli, 123, 124 
Garigliano, 257 
Generali, Pietro, 123 
Geneva : arrival, 85 

— banker, 86 

— church of S. Gervais, 91 

— departure, 98 

— description of, 88, 89 

— English tourists at, $6 

— etening party at, 95 

— literary advantages at, 87, 88, 
90 

— part music, 97 

" Ginevra di Scozia," 271 
Glyss, 105 
Goitre, 98, 101 
" Grand boire," 84 
Gretry, 25 
Guercino, 217, 222 
Guglielmo, 235 
Guido, 222, 234 

Hamilton, Lady, 3 (note) 
Herculaneum, 272 
Holland, Lord, 109 



INDEX 



297 



Hotel charges : French, 52, 57, 58, 
59, 61, 62, 63, 66, 79 

— Italian, 115, 132, 140, 162, 256, 
279 

— Swiss, S3, 101 
Hotels in Italy, 163 

Impositions at home, 291 
Impositions in posting, 53, 79, 136, 

137, 140, 2S1 
Improvisatori, 147, 199 
Inoculation, 280 
Iseile, no 

" Italiana in Algieri," 234, 248 
Italian language, the, III, 1 12 

Joachim, King of Naples, 238, 
270, 275 

Kemble, 42, 43 
Killarney compared, 89, 114 
Kissing, custom of, 271 
Kleynau, General, 119 
Kreutzer, 31 

Lafond, 288 

" Last Supper," 121 

Leipzig, battle of, 41 

"Le Menteur," 39 

Leonardo da Vinci, 12 1 

"Les Templiers," 288 

Lethiere, M., 211, 236 

" Liste des impositions en France," 

102 
Loire, the, 60 
Louis XVIII, 24, 39 
Lyons : arrival, 69 

— church of S. John, 74 

— departure, 79 

— hotel arrangements, 73 

— police benevolence, 69 



Lyons : religious procession, 74 

— silk manufacture, 77, 78 

— theatre, 78 

— visit of Monsieur, 69, 71, 75 

MacDonald, Field-Marshal, 37 
Manners of English, 20, 103, 206, 
216, 219, 245 

— French, 13, 20 
Marie Antoinette, 36 
Marriage of Figaro, 287 
Mars, Mademoiselle, 288 
Massimo, Marchesa, 215, 219, 226 
Mayne, Sir Richard, 119 

" Medea," 264 

Michael Angelo, 23, 143, I44> 180, 
204, 229 

— tomb of, 146 

Milan: amphitheatre, 121 

— arrival, 118 

— cathedral, 121 

— departure, 126 

— description of, 125 

— la Scala, 118, 1 19, 120, 123 

— music at, 125 

— palace of arts and sciences, 122 

— S. Maria delle Grazie, 121 

— second visit to, 282 
Modena, 130 

Mola di Gaeta, 257, 279 
Monsieur, 24 
Mont Cenis, 283, 284 
Montefiascone, 158 
Monte Rosa, 107 
Monterosi, 159 
Mt. Melian, 286 
Montmorenci, Due, 62 
Moulins, 62 

Nampont, 7 

Naples : " Aristides," 262 



298 



INDEX 



Naples : arrival, 260 

— "Balbus," 262 

— bay of Naples, 267, 269 

— buildings of, 263 

— carneval, 274 

— catacombs, 263 

— Chiaja, 261 

— court of, 276 

— departure, 278 

— Dublin Bay compared, 269 

— Farnesian Hercules, 261 

— " Flora," 261 

— imposition at, 266, 273 

— Pausilipo, 262 

— Sannazar's tomb, 262 

— theatre Fondo, 273 
Nuovo, 260 

of S. Carlo, 263, 270, 275 

— Toledo, 261, 274 

— Vesuvius, ascent of, 266 

— Virgil's tomb, 262 

Naples, King and Queen of, 270, 

275 

Napoleon, statue of, 197 
Nemours, 57 
Nogent, 286 
Novalese, 283 

Paer, Ferdinando, 121, 221 

Pallisse, 63 

Paris : "Apollo," 22, 23 

— arrival, 15, 18 

— Bonaparte's improvements, 28,48 

— Champs Elysees, 20 

— departure, 45, 53 

— "Dying Gladiator," 22 

— exhibition of living artists, 287 

— general observations on, 47 et 
seq. 

— Jardin des Plantes, 29 

— " Laocoon," 22, 23 



Paris : Louvre, the, 21, 22, 25, 32, 
47, 287 

— military review, 40 

— mode of living in, 50, 51 

— Monumens Francais, 25 

— museum of natural history, 30 

— Notre Dame, 27 

— opera, 30 

— Pantheon, the, 28 

— Place de la Concorde, 15 

— protestant church service, 32 

— second visit to, 287 

— theatre Feydeau, 25 
Francais, 21, 39, 43 

— Tuileries, 15, 24 

— "Venus of Milo," 22 
Parma, 128 

Patrizi, Prince, 227 

" Perte superbe du Rhone," 81, 82 

Piacenza, 126 

Pistrucci, 147 

Pius VI, arrest of, 56 

Pleyel, 31 

Poggibonsi, 153 

Pompeii, 264 et seq. 

Pompey, statue of, 252 

Pontine Marshes, 255 

Pope, the, at Fontainebleau, 55, 56 

Portici, 266, 272, 273 

Portogallo, 188 

Postilions in France, 6, 8, 58, 60, 

67 

— Italy, 128, 130, 137, 285 
Prince of the Peace, 247 
Princess of Wales, 93, 173, 177, 

270, 274 

Quillacy and Duplessis, 3 

Radicofani, 156 

Raffaelle, 25, 154, 205, 229 



INDEX 



299 



Rane das vaches, 90, 97 
Riding " a califorchon," 7, 158 
Road traffic in England and France, 

14 
Robbery in Italy, 158, 212, 356 
Rode, 88 
Rolla, 124 
Rome: antiquities in, 167, 173 

— approach to, 160 

— Athens, school of, 206 

— Auguste, M., 200, 210, 236 

— Augustus, monument of, 213 

— "Aurora" of Guercino, 217, 
222 

Guido, 222 

— balloons of Napoleon's corona- 
tion, 252 

— beggars in, 169, 227 

— blue-stockings, 185 

— booksellers, 183, 218, 249 

— b*ll-fights, 213 

— Caesar, palace of, 192 

— Caius Cestius, pyramid of, 193 

— Campo Vaccino, 169 

— Capitol, 169, 184, 234, 240 

— carneval, the, 251 

— charitable associations, 186 

— Christmas in, 230, 232 

— church inscriptions, 174, 202, 
203, 229 

— church of Ara Coeli, 240 

S. Andrea della Valle, 214 

S. Carlo Borromeo, 177 

S. Giov. in Laterano, 189, 

225 

S. John and S. Paul, 226 

S. Maria degli Angeli, 214 

S. Maria della Minerva, 180 

S. Maria Maggiore, 230 

S. Paul, 215 

S. Pietro in Vincolis, 170 



Rome : Colosseum, 168, 191 

— convent of noble ladies, 234 

— departure, 255 

— English in, 206, 216, 219, 245 

— equipages in, 170, 178 

— Especo, Luigi, 176, 181, 185, 
200, 213 

— Forum, the, 169 

— " Four Evangelists," 214 

— frog-fishing, 242 

— funerals, 186, 226 

— god Ridiculous, the, 243 

— groteschi, 243 

— Holy Eve in, 173 

— Holy staircase, 190 

— "Homer among the Tombs," 
236 

— Janiculum, 176 

— "Last Judgment, the," 204, 
207 

— libraries, 192 

— Li via, baths of, 241 

— lodgings in, 167 

— loggie, 205 

— lottery, 179 

— Marcus Aurelius, statue of, 169 

— messa in musica, 236 

— Monte Cavallo, 218 

— Monte Cittorio, 179 

— Monte Testaccio, 193 

— " Moses," 174, 224 

— mosaic work, 208 

— music in, 167, 170, 171, 188, 
204, 218. 223, 245, 250 

— Onorato, 179, 182 

— Ottavario per i defonti, 175 

— palazzo Barberini, 223 

Colonna, 219, 220 

Doria, 189 

Farnese, 176, 245, 280 

Rospigliosi, 222 



300 



INDEX 



Rome : palazzo Spada, 252 

— Pantheon, the, 180, 184 

— " Perseus," 219 

— pifferari, 201 

— Pope, the, 171, 177, 184, 204 

— popular music, 187 

— post-office censorship, 239 

— preaching in, 178, 191, 205 

— presepj, 233 

— processions in, 169, 181, 186, 
237 

— prohibited books, 183, 209, 218 

— punishment of criminals, 182, 
210 

— S. Peter's, 165, 171, 185, 209, 
218, 224, 230, 232, 247, 280 

— Santo Bambino, 240 

— Scipios, tomb of the, 217 

— second visit to, 279 

— senator, installation of, 227, 
237 

— Sep. Sever us, arch of, 184 

— Sistine chapel, 203 

— social customs, 202, 226 

— stabbing in, 182, 210 

— theatre Argentina, 246, 250 

della Valle, 234, 248 

Tordinona, 241 

— Tiberius, statue of, 251 

— Titus, baths of, 177 

— Trajan's column, 168 

— Trastevere, 194 

— Trevi, Fountain of, 192 

— "Two Pugilists," 219 

— Vatican library, 211 

— Vatican museum, 219 

— Villa Albani, 238 

Borghese, 178 

Farnesina, 229 

Lante, 243 

Ludovisi, 216 



Rome : Villa Madama, 244 

Medici, 171, 200 

Pamfili, 228 

Poniatowsky, 243 

— votive offerings, 214 
Ronciglione, 159 
Rose, Mr., 244 
Rossini, 221, 234, 241, 248 

St. Cloud, 33 

St. Genis, 84 

St. Gingoux, 98 

St. Maurice, 100 

St. Pierre le Moutier, 61 

St. Simphorien, 68 

San Michele, 285 

Saxe Gotha, Prince of, 195 

Scala, 156 

Sesto Calende, 115 

Sevres factory, 34 

Shakespeare, translations of, 124, 

239 
Siena, 153 

Simplon, 98, 100, 105-9 
Sion, 101 
Soult, General, 26 
Spain, King of, 223, 233, 247 
Susa, 283 

Talma, 22, 288 

"Tancrede," 22 

" Tancredi," 241, 242, 245 

Tarare, 68 

Terracina, 255 

"Three Graces," 154 

"Three Sultanesses," 39 

Torlonia's bank, 164, 194 

Tramezzani, 282 

Turin, 282 

Uniforms of French soldiery, 41, 
42 



INDEX 



301 



Vasi, 165 
Velletri, 279 
Versailles, 34 et seq, 
Vesuvius, 266 et seq. 
Vetturino, 150, 153 
Victor, General, 26, 27 
Viterbo, 158 



Wicklow compared, 67, 68 
Winckleman, 238 
Wyndham, Mrs., 146 

Z^mire et Azor, 25 
Zingarelli, 221 



NEW BOOKS 



THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE NINE- 
TEENTH CENTURY. By Houston Stewart 
Chamberlain. A translation from the German by 
John Lees. With an Introduction, by Lord 
Redesdale. Demy 8vo (9 x 5^ inches). 32s. net. 

THE LIFE OF JOAN OF ARC. By Anatole 
France, a Translation by Winifred Stephens. With 
8 Illustrations. Demy Svo (9 x 5^), 2 vols. 25s. net. 

THE LOVE LETTERS OF THOMAS CAR- 
LYLE AND JANE WELSH. Edited by Alex- 
ander Carlyle, Nephew of Thomas Carlyle, editor 
of M New Letters and Memorials of Jane Welsh 
Carlyle," " New Letters of Thomas Carlyle," etc. 
With portraits. Demy 8vo (9 x 5J inches), 2 vols. 
25s. net. 

THE LAST JOURNALS OF HORACE WAL- 
POLE. Being his Memoirs of the Reign of George 
III from 1 77 1 to 1783. Edited with an Introduction 
by A. Francis Steuart, and containing numerous 
Portraits reproduced from contemporary Pictures, 
Engravings, etc. 2 vols. Demy 8vo. 21s. net. 

MARIA EDGEWORTH AND HER CIRCLE 
IN THE DAYS OF BONAPARTE AND 

BOURBON. By Constance Hill. Author of 
" Jane Austen : Her Homes and Her Friends," 
"Juniper Hall," "The House in St. Martin's Street," 
etc. With numerous Illustrations by Ellen G. Hill 
and Reproductions of Contemporary Portraits, etc. 
Demy Svo (9 x 5 \ inches). 21s. net. 

THE LOVE AFFAIRS OF NAPOLEON. By 
Joseph Turouan. Translated from the French by 
James L. May. With 32 full-page Illustrations. 
Demy Svo (9 x 5 J inches). 12s. 6d. net. 



LADIES FAIR AND FRAIL. Sketches of the 
Demi-monde during the Eighteenth Century. By 
Horace Bleackley. Author of "The Story of a 
Beautiful Duchess." With numerous Portraits re- 
produced from contemporary sources. Demy 8vo 
(9 x 5 J inches). 12s. 6d. net. 

A SISTER OF PRINCE RUPERT, ELIZA- 
BETH PRINCESS PALATINE ABBESS OF 
HERFORD. By Elizabeth Godfrey, author of 
" Heidelberg : its Princes and its Palaces," " English 
Children in the Olden Time," etc. With numerous 
Illustrations reproduced from contemporary portraits, 
prints, etc. Demy 8 vo (9 x 5 J inches). 12s.6d.net. 

AERIAL WARFARE. By R. P. Hearne. With 
an Introduction by Sir Hiram Maxim, and 50 
Illustrations reproduced from photographs, plans and 
rare old prints, etc. Demy 8vo (9 x 5 j inches). 
78. 6d. net. 

THE MAKING OF SPECIES. By Douglas 
Dewar, F.C.S., F.Z.S., B.A. (Cantab.), and Frank 
Finn, F.Z.S., M.B.O.U., B.A. (Oxon.). Demy 8vo 
(9 x 5f inches). 7s. 6d. net. 

THE PHILOSOPHY OF LONG LIFE. By 
Jean Finot. A Translation by Harry Roberts. 
Demy 8vo (9 x 5J inches). 7s. 6d. net. 

ON THE TRACKS OF LIFE. The Immo- 
rality of Morality. Translated from the Italian of 
Leo G. Sera by J. M. Kennedy, with an Introduction 
by Dr. Oscar Levy. Demy 8vo (9 x 5f inches). 
7s. 6d. net. 

CESAR FRANC K : A Study. Translated from the 
French of Vincent d'Indy, with an Introduction 
by Rosa Newmarch. Demy 8vo (9 x 5J inches). 
7 s. 6d. net. 

JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, LONDON. 



THE WORKS OF 
ANATOLE FRANCE 



T has long been a reproach to 
England that only one volume 
by ANATOLE FRANCE 
has been adequately rendered 
into English ; yet outside this 
country he shares with 
TOLSTOI the distinction 
of being the greatest and most daring 
student of humanity now living. 

f There have been many difficulties to 
encounter in completing arrangements for a 
uniform edition, though perhaps the chief bar- 
rier to publication here has been the fact that 
his writings are not for babes — but for men 
and the mothers of men. Indeed, some of his 
Eastern romances are written with biblical can- 
dour. "I have sought truth strenuously," he 
tells us, " I have met her boldly. I have never 
turned from her even when she wore an 



THE WORKS OF ANATOLE FRANCE 

unexpected aspect." Still, it is believed that the day has 
come for giving English versions of all his imaginative 
works, as well as of his monumental study JOAN OF 
ARC, which is undoubtedly the most discussed book in the 
world of letters to-day. 

H MR. JOHN LANE has pleasure in announcing that 
he will commence publication of the works of M. 
ANATOLE FRANCE in English, under the general 
editorship of MR. FREDERIC CHAPMAN, with the 
following volumes : 

THE RED LILY 

MOTHER OF PEARL 

THE GARDEN OF EPICURUS 

THE CRIME OF SYLVESTRE BONNARD 

JOCASTA AND THE FAMISHED CAT 

BALTHASAR 

THE WELL OF ST. CLARE 

THE ELM TREE ON THE MALL 

THE WICKER-WORK WOMAN 

AT THE SIGN OF THE QUEEN PEDAUQUE 

THE OPINIONS OF JEROME COIGNARD 

MY FRIEND'S BOOK 

THE ASPIRATIONS OF JEAN SERVIEN 

THAIS 

JOAN OF ARC (2 vols.) 
H All the books will be published at 6/- each with the 
exception of JOAN OF ARC, which will be 25/- net 
the two volumes, with eight Illustrations. 

11 The format of the volumes leaves little to be desired. 
The size is Demy 8vo (9 x 5| in.), that of this Prospectus, and 
they will be printed from Caslon type upon a paper light in 
weight and strong in texture, with a cover design in crimson 
and gold, a gilt top, end-papers from designs by Aubrey 
Beardsley and initials by Henry Ospovat. In short, these are 
volumes for the bibliophile as well as the lover of fiction, 
and form perhaps the cheapest library edition of copyright 
novels ever published, for the price is only that of an 
ordinary novel. 

11 The translation of these books has been entrusted to such 
competent French scholars as MR. Alfred allinson, hon. 

MAURICE BARING, MR. FREDERIC CHAPMAN, MR. ROBERT B. 



THE WORKS OF ANATOLE FRANCE 

DOUGLAS, MR. A. W. EVANS, MRS. FARLEY, MR. LAFCADIO 
HEARN, MRS. JOHN LANE, MRS. NEWMARCH, MR. C. E. ROCHE, 
MISS WINIFRED STEPHENS, and MISS M. P. WILLCOCKS. 

11 As Anatole Thibault, dit Anatole France, is to most 
English readers merely a name, it will be well to state that 
he was born in 1844 in the picturesque and inspiring 
surroundings of an old bookshop on the Quai Voltaire, 
Paris, kept by his father, Monsieur Thibault, an authority on 
eighteenth-century history, from whom the boy caught the 
passion for the principles of the Revolution, while from his 
mother he was learning to love the ascetic ideals chronicled 
in the Lives of the Saints. He was schooled with the lovers 
of old books, missals and manuscripts ; he matriculated on 
theQuaiswith the old Jewish dealers of z\ix\o%2Xi&objets£art ; 
he graduated in the great university of life and experience. 
It will be recognised that all his work is permeated by his 
youthful impressions ; he is, in fact, a virtuoso at large. 

H He has written about thirty volumes of fiction. His 
first novel was JOCASTA iff THE FAMISHED CAT 
(1879). THE CRIME OF SYLVESTRE BONNARD 
appeared in 1881, and had the distinction of being crowned 
by the French Academy, into which he was received in 1896. 

U His work is illuminated with style, scholarship, and 
psychology ; but its outstanding features are the lambent wit, 
the gay mockery, the genial irony with which he touches every 
subject he treats. But the wit is never malicious, the mockery 
never derisive, the irony never barbed. To quote from his own 
GARDEN OF EPICURUS : " Irony and Pity are both of 
good counsel ; the first with her smiles makes life agreeable, 
the other sanctifies it to us with her tears. The Irony I 
invoke is no cruel deity. She mocks neither love nor 
beauty. She is gentle and kindly disposed. Her mirth 
disarms anger and it is she teaches us to laugh at rogues and 
fools whom but for her we might be so weak as to hate." 

1 Often he shows how divine humanity triumphs over 
mere aceticism, and with entire reverence ; indeed, he 
mi2;ht be described as an ascetic overflowing with humanity, 
ju^t as he has been termed a "pagan, but a pagan 
constantly haunted by the pre-occupation of Christ." 
He is in turn — like his own Choulette in THE RED 
LILY — saintly and Rabelaisian, yet without incongruity. 



THE WORKS OF ANATOLE FRANCE 

At all times he is the unrelenting foe of superstition and 
hypocrisy. Of himself he once modestly said : " You will find 
in my writings perfect sincerity (lying demands a talent I do 
not possess), much indulgence, and some natural affection for 
the beautiful and good." 

U The mere extent of an author's popularity is perhaps a 
poor argument, yet it is significant that two books by this 
author are in their HUNDRED AND TENTH THOU- 
SAND^ numbers of them well into their SEVENTIETH 
THOUSAND, whilst the one which a Frenchman recently 
described as " Monsieur France's most arid book " is in its 
FIFTY-EIGHTH THOUSAND. 

f Inasmuch as M. FRANCE'S ONLY contribution t© 
an English periodical appeared in THE YELLOW BOOK, 
vol. v., April 1895, together with the first important English 
appreciation of his work from the pan of the Hon. Maurice 
Baring, it is peculiarly appropriate that the English edition 
of his works should be issued from the Bodley Head. 



ORDER FORM 

„.._ 190 

To Mr _ 

Bookseller 

Tlease send me the following works of sAnatole France 

to be issued in June and July : 
THE RED LILY 
MOTHER OF PEARL 
THE GARDEN OF EPICURUS 
THE CRIME OF SYLVESTRE BONNARD 

for which I enclase „ 

O^ante _ 

^Address 

JOHN LANE,Publishkr,TheBodlky Head, Vigo St. London, W. 



2(0 TICE 

Those who possess old letters, documents, corre- 
spondence, 3\ISS., scraps of autobiography, and also 
miniatures and portraits, relating to persons and 
matters historical, literary, political and social, should 
communicate with <3VLr. 'John Lane, The Bodley 
Head, Vigo Street, London, W., who will at all 
times be pleased to give his advice and assistance, 
either as to their preservation or publication. 



LIVING MASTERS OF MUSIC 

An Illustrated Series of Monographs dealing with 
Contemporary Musical Life, and including Repre- 
sentatives of all Branches of the Art. Edited by 
Rosa Newmarch. Crown 8vo. Cloth, zs. 6d. net 
each volume. 

HENRY J. WOOD. By Rosa Newmarch. 

SIR EDWARD ELGAR. By R. J. Buckley. 

JOSEPH JOACHIM. By J. A. Fuller Maitland. 

EDWARD MACDOWELL. By L. Gilman. 

EDVARD GRIEG. By H. T. Finck. 

THEODOR LESCHETIZKY. By A. Hullah. 

GIACOMO PUCCINI. By Wakeling Dry. 

ALFRED BRUNEAU. By Arthur Hervey. 

IGNAZ PADEREWSKI. By E. A. Baughan. 

RICHARD STRAUSS. By A. Kalisch. 

CLAUDE DEBUSSY. By Franz Liebich. 



STARS OF THE STAGE 

A Series of Illustrated Biographies of the Leading 
Actors, Actresses, and Dramatists. Edited by J. T. 
Grein. Crown 8vo. zs. 6d. each net. 

*** It was Schiller who said: " Twine no wreath for the 
actor, since his work is oral and ephemeral." "Stars of the 
Stage" may in some degi-ee remove this reproach. There are 
hundreds of thousands of playgoers, and both editor and publisher 
think it reasonable to assume that a considerable number of these 
would like to know something about actors, actresses, and 
dramatists, whose work they nightly applaud. Each volume 
will be carefully illustrated, and as far as text, printing, and 
paper are concerned will be a notable book. Great care has been 
taken in selecting the biographers, who in most cases have 
already accumulated much appropriate material. 

First Volumes. 
ELLEN TERRY. By Christopher St. John. 
HERBERT BEERBOHM TREE. By Mrs. George Cran. 
W. S. GILBERT. By Edith A. Browne. 
CHAS. WYNDHAM. By Florence Teignmouth Shore. 
GEORGE BERNARD SHAW. By G. K. Chesterton. 






A CATALOGUE OF 

MEMOIRS, 'BIOGRAPHIES, ETC. 

JFOP^KS UPON S^APOLEON 
N'APOLEOXerTHE INVASION OF ENGLAND: 

The Story of the Great Terror, 1 797-1 805. By H, F. B. 
Wheeler and A. M. Broadley. With upwards of 100 Full- 
page Illustrations reproduced from Contemporary Portraits, Prints, 
etc. ; eight in Colour. Two Volumes. 3 2s. net. 

Outlcok. — "The book is not merely one to be ordered from the library; it should be 
purchased, kept on an accessible shelf, and constantly studied by all Englishmen who 
love England." 

>;sier Gazette. — "Messrs. Wheeler and Broadley have succeeded in producing a 
work on the threatened invasion of England by Napoleon, which treats of the subject 
with a fulness of detail and a completeness of documentary evidence that are 
unexampled. " 

DUMOURIEZ AND THE DEFENCE OF 

ENGLAND AGAINST NAPOLEON. By J. Holland 
Rose, Litt.D. (Cantab.), Author of "The Life of Napoleon," 
and A. M. Broadley, joint-author of " Napoleon and the Invasion 
of England." Illustrated with numerous Portraits, Maps, and 
Facsimiles. Demy Svo. 21s. net. 

THE FALL OF NAPOLEON. By Oscar 

Browning, m. a., Author of "The Boyhood and Youth of Napoleon." 
With numerous Full-page Illustrations. Demy 8vo (9 x 5 J inches). 
1 is. 6d. net. 

Spectator. — " Without doubt Mr. Oscar Browning has produced a book which should have 

its place in any library of Napoleonic literature." 
Tr-.it>':. — 1 ' Mr. Oscar Browning has made not the least, but the most of the romantic 

material at his command for the story of the fall of the greatest figure in history. ' 

THE BOYHOOD & YOUTH OF NAPOLEON, 

1 -69-1 793. Some Chapters on the early life of Bonaparte. 
By Oscar Browning, m.a. With numerous Illustrations, Por- 
traits, etc. Crown Svo. 5/. net. 

Daily News. — " Mr. Browning has with patience, labour, careful study, and excellent taste 
given us a very valuable work, which will add materially to the literature on this most 
fascinating of human personalities." 

Literary World. — ". . . Mr. Browning has examined all the available sources of informa- 
tion and carefully weighed his historical evidence. His discriminating treatment has 
resulted in a book that is . . . one that arrests attention by the conviction its reasoned 
conclusions carry." 



A CATALOGUE OF 



THE DUKE OF REICHSTADT (NAPOLEON II.) 

By Edward de Wertheimer. Translated from the German. 
With numerous Illustrations. Demy 8vo. zis. net. (Second 
Edition.) 

Times. — "A most careful and interesting work which presents the first complete and 
authoritative account of the life of this unfortunate Prince." 

Westminster Gazette.—" This book, admirably produced, reinforced by many additional 
portraits, is a solid contribution to history and a monument of patient, well-applied 
research." 

NAPOLEON'S CONQUEST OF PRUSSIA, 1806. 

By F. Loraine Petre. With an Introduction by Field- 
Marshal Earl Roberts, V.C., K.G., etc. With Maps, Battle 
Plans, Portraits, and 16 Full-page Illustrations. Demy 8vo 
(9x5! inches), izs. 6d. net. 

Scotsman. — " Neithertoo concise, nor too diffuse, the book is eminently readable. It is the 
best work in English on a somewhat circumscribed subject." 

Outlook. — " Mr. Petre has visited the battlefields and read everything, and his monograph is 
a model of what military history, handled with enthusiasm and literary ability, can be." 

NAPOLEON'S CAMPAIGN IN POLAND, 1806- 

1 807. A Military History of Napoleon's First War with Russia, 
verified from unpublished official documents. By F. Loraine 
Petre. With 16 Full-page Illustrations, Maps, and Plans. New 
Edition. Demy 8vo (9 x 5f inches). \zs. 6d. net. 

A?~my and Navy Chronicle. — "We welcome a second edition of this valuable work. . . . 
Mr. Loraine Petre is an authority on the wars of the great Napoleon, and has brought 
the greatest care and energy into his studies of the subject." 

NAPOLEON AND THE ARCHDUKE 

CHARLES. A History of the Franco- Austrian Campaign in 
the Valley of the Danube in 1809. By F. Loraine Petre. 
With 8 Illustrations and 6 sheets of Maps and Plans. Demy 8vo 
(9 x 5t inches). \zs. 6d. net. 

RALPH HEATHCOTE. Letters of a Diplomatist 

During the Time of Napoleon, Giving an Account of the Dispute 
between the Emperor and the Elector of Hesse. By Countess 
Gunther Groben. With Numerous Illustrations. Demy 8vo 
(9 x 5 J inches), us. 6d. net. 

*** Ralph Heathcote, the son of an English father and an Alsatian mother, was for 
some time in the English diplomatic service as first secretary to Mr. Brook Taylor, minister 
at the Court of Hesse, and on one occasion found himself very near to ?naking history. 
Napoleon became persuaded that Taylor was implicated in a plot to procure his assassina- 
lion, and insisted on his dismissal from the Hessian Court. As Taylor refused to be 
dismissed, the incident at one time seemed likely to result to the Elector in the loss of his 
throne. Heathcote came into contact with a number of notable people, including the Miss 
Berrys, with whom he assures his mother he is not in love. On the whole, there is much 
interesting material for lovers of old letters and journals. 



MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 5 



MEMOIRS OF THE COUNT DE CARTRIE. 

A record of the extraordinary events in the life of a French 
Royalist during the war in La Vendee, and of his flight to South- 
ampton, where he followed the humble occupation of gardener. 
With an introduction by Frederic Masson, Appendices and Notes 
by Pierre Amedee Pichot, and other hands, and numerous Illustra- 
tions, including a Photogravure Portrait of the Author. Demy 8vo. 
1 2 j. 6d. net. 

Daily Hems. — "We have seldom met with a human document which has interested us so 

much.'' 
Athcnuum. — "As a record of personal suffering and indomitable perseverance against 

opposing circumstances the narrative of De Cartrie's escape to the Eastern frontier, in 

the disguise of a master-gunner, could not easily be surpassed." 

WOMEN OF THE SECOND EMPIRE. 

Chronicles of the Court of Napoleon III. By Frederic Loliee. 
\A ith an introduction by Richard Whiteing and 53 full-page 
Illustrations, 3 in Photogravure. Demy 8vo. 21s. net. 

Standard. — " M. Frederic Loliee has written a remarkable book, vivid and pitiless in its 
description of the intrigue and dare-devil spirit which nourished unchecked at the French 
Court. . . . Mr. Richard Whiteing's introduction is written with restraint and dignity." 

Daily TeUgrafi;. — " It is a really fascinating story, or series of stories, set forth in this 
one. . . . Here are anecdotes innumerable of the brilliant women of the Second Em- 
pire, so that in reading the book we are not only dazzled by the beauty and gorgeousness 
of everything, but we are entertained by the record of things said and done, and through 
all we are conscious of the coming 'gloom and doom' so soon to overtake the Court. 
Few novels possess the fascination of this spirited work, and many readers will hope that 
the author will cany out his proposal of giving us a further series of memories of the 
'Women of the Second Empire.' 

LOUIS NAPOLEON AND THE GENESIS OF 

THE SECOND EMPIRE. By F. H. Cheetham. With 
Numerous Illustrations. Demy Svo (9 x 5 J inches). 16s. net. 

MEMOIRS OF MADEMOISELLE DES 

ECHEROLLES. Translated from the French by Marie 
Clothilde Balfour. With an Introduction by G. K. Fortescue, 
Portraits, etc. 5/. net. 

Liverpool Mercury. — ". . . this absorbing book. . . . The work has a very decided 
historical value. The translation is excellent, and quite notable in the preservation of 
idiom." 

JANE AUSTEN'S SAILOR BROTHERS. Being 

the life and Adventures of Sir Francis Austen, g.cb., Admiral of 
the Fleet, and Rear-Admiral Charles Austen. By J. H. and E. C. 
Hubeack. With numerous Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 121. 6d. net. 

Horning Pai. — ". . . May be welcomed as an important addition to Austeniana . . .; 
it is besides valuable for its glimpses of life in the Navy, its illustrations of the feelings 
and sentiments of naval officers during the period that preceded and that which 
followed the great battle of just one century ago, the battle which won so much but 
which cost us — Nelson." 



A CATALOGUE OF 



SOME WOMEN LOVING AND LUCKLESS. 

By Teodor de Wyzewa. Translated from the French by C. H. 
Jeffreson, m.a. With Numerous Illustrations. Demy 8vo 
(9 x 5f inches), "s. 6d. net. 

POETRY AND PROGRESS IN RUSSIA. By 

Rosa Newmarch. With 6 full-page Portraits. Demy 8vo. 
JS. 6d. net. 

Standard. — " Distinctly a book that should be read . . . pleasantly written and well 
informed." 

THE LIFE OF PETER ILICH TCHAIKOVSKY 

(1840-1893). By his Brother, Modeste Tchaikovsky. Edited 
and abridged from the Russian and German Editions by Rosa 
Newmarch. With Numerous Illustrations and Facsimiles and an 
Introduction by the Editor. Demy 8vo. js. 6d. net. Second 
edition. 

The Times. — "A most illuminating commentary on Tchaikovsky's music." 

World. — " One of the most fascinating self-revelations by an artist which has been given to 

the world. The translation is excellent, and worth reading for its own sake." 
Contemporary Review. — " The book's appeal is, of course, primarily to the music-lover ; but 
there is so much of human and literary interest in it, such intimate revelation of a 
singularly interesting personality, that many who have never come under the spell of 
the Pathetic Symphony will be strongly attracted by what is virtually the spiritual 
autobiography of its composer. High praise is due to the translator and editor for the 
literary skill with which she has prepared the English version of this fascinating work . . . 
There have been few collections of letters published within recent years that give so 
vivid a portrait of the writer as that presented to us in these pages." 

COKE OF NORFOLK AND HIS FRIENDS: 

The Life of Thomas William Coke, First Earl of Leicester of 
the second creation, containing an account of his Ancestry, 
Surroundings, Public Services, and Private Friendships, and 
including many Unpublished Letters from Noted Men of his day, 
English and American. By A. M. W. Stirling. With 20 
Photogravure and upwards of 40 other Illustrations reproduced 
from Contemporary Portraits, Prints, etc. Demy 8vo. 2 vols. 
32/. net. 

The Times. — "We thank Mr. Stirling for one of the most interesting memoirs of recent 

years." 
Daily Telegraph. — " A very remarkable literary performance. Mrs. Stirling has achieved 

a resurrection. She has fashioned a picture of a dead and forgotten past and brought 

before our eyes with the vividness of breathing existence the life of our English ancestors 

of the eighteenth century." 
Pall Mall Gazette. — " A work of no common interest ; in fact, a work which may almost be 

called unique." 
Evening Standard. — "One of the most interesting biographies we have read for years." 



MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 7 



THE LIFE OF SIR HALLIDAY MACART- 
NEY, K.C.M.G., Commander of Li Hung Chang's trained 
force in the Taeping Rebellion, founder of the first Chinese 
Arsenal, Secretary to the first Chinese Embassy to Europe. 
Secretary and Councillor to the Chinese Legation in London for 
thirty years. By Demetrius C. Boulger, Author of the 
" History of China," the " Life of Gordon," etc. With Illus- 
trations. Demy Svo. Price 24/. net. 

Daily Graphic. — " It is sale to say that few readers will be able to put down the book with- 
out feeling the better for having read it . . . not only full of personal interest, but 
tells us much that we never knew before on some not unimportant details." 

DEVONSHIRE CHARACTERS AND STRANGE 

EVENTS. By S. Baring-Gould, m.a., Author of" Yorkshire 
Oddities," etc. With 5 S Illustrations. Demy Svo. 21j.net. 

Daily News. — " A fascinating series . . . the whole book is rich in human interest. It is 
by personal touches, drawn from traditions and memories, that the dead men surrounded 
by the curious panoply of their time, are made to live again in Mr. Baring-Gould's pages. " 

CORNISH CHARACTERS AND STRANGE 

E\ ENTS. By S. Baring-Gould. Demy Svo. z\s. net. 

THE HEART OF GAMBETTA. Translated 

from the French of Francis Laur by Violette Montagu. 
With an Introduction by John Macdonald, Portraits and other 
Illustrations. Demy 8vo. Js. 6d. net. 

Daily Telegraph. — " It is Gambetta pouring out his soul to Leonie Leon, the strange, 
passionate, masterful demagogue, who wielded the most persuasive oratory of modern 
times, acknowledging his idol, his inspiration, his Egeria." 

THE MEMOIRS OF ANN, LADY FANSHAWE. 

Written by Lady Fanshawe. With Extracts from the Correspon- 
dence of Sir Richard Fanshawe. Edited by H. C. Fanshawe. 
With 38 Full-page Illustrations, including four in Photogravure 
and one in Colour. Demy Svo. 16s. net. 

%• This Edition has been printed direct from the original manuscript in the possession 
of the Fanshawe Family, and Mr. H. C. Fanshawe contributes numerous notes which 
form a running commentary on the text. Many famous pictures are reproduced, includ- 
ing paintings by Velazquez and Van Dyck. 



8 A CATALOGUE OF 



By 



THE LIFE OF JOAN OF ARC. 

Anatole France. 

A Translation by Winifred Stephens. 
With 8 Illustrations. 
Demy 8vo, 9 x 5 J inches, 2 vols. 
Price 2 5 j. net. 

*** Joan of Arc, by her friends accounted a saint ', by her enemies a witch, stands out 
the one supretne figure of the French i$th century ; that period of storm and stress, that 
time of birth-giving from which proceeded the glories of the Renaissance. Bitter con- 
troversy raged round the Maid in her life-tune. Round her story to-day literary 
polemic waxes high; and her life by Anatole France is the most eagerly discussed book 
of the century. That it presents a life-like picture of the time critics of all parties agree. 
Its author has well equipped himself with the best erudition of the last thirty years. To 
the fruits of these researches he has added profound pJiilosophy and true historical 
insight, and thus into consutnmate literarv art he has painted a more vivid picture of 
the French 15th centttry than has ever yet been presented in any literature. The Maid 
herself Monsieur France regards not as a skilful general or a wily politician as some 
writers have endeavoured to ?nake out, but as above all things a saint. It was by her 
purity and innate goodness that she triumphed. "It was not Joan who drove the English 
out of France . . . And yet the young saint played the noblest part in the salvation of 
her country. Hers was the part of sacrifice. She set the example of high courage and 
gave to heroism, a new and attractive form. 



THE DAUGHTER OF LOUIS XVI. 

Marie-Therese-Charlotte of France, Duchesse D'Angouleme. 
By G. Lenotre. 

With 13 Full-page Illustrations. 

Demy 8vo. 

Price 10/. 6d. net. 

*** M. G. Lenotre is perhaps the most widely read of a group ofvtodern French writers 
who have succeeded in treating history from a point of view at once scientific, dramatic 
and popular. He has ?nade the Revolution his particular field of research, and deals not 
only with the most prominent figures of that period, but with many minor characters 
whose life-stories are quite as thrilling as anything in fiction. The localities in which 
these dramas were enacted are vividly brought before us in his works, for no one has 
reconstructed iZth century Paris with more picturesque and accurate detail. " The 
Daughter of Louis XVI." is quite equal in interest and literary merit to any of the 
volumes which have preceded it, not excepting the famous Drama ofVarennes. As usual, 
M. Lenotre draws his material largely from contemporary documents, and among the 
most remarkable memoirs reproduced in this book are " The Story of my Visit to the 
Temple " by Harmand de la Meuse, and the artless, but profoundly touching narrative of 
the unhappy orphaned Princess : "A manuscript written by Marie Therese Charlotte 
of France upon the captivity of the Princes and Princesses, her relatives, imprisoned in 
the Temple." The illustrations are a feature of the volume and include the so-called 
" telescope" portrait of the Princess, sketched from life by an anonymous artist, stationed 
at a window opposite her prison in the tower of the Temple. 



MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 9 
HUBERT AND JOHN VAN EYCK : Their Life 

and Work. By W. H. James Weale. With 4.1 Photogravure 
and 95 Black and White Reproductions. Royal ^to. ^5 5/. net. 

Sir Martin Conway's Note. 

a century has passed since Mr. W. H. James Weale, then resident at 

Bruges, began that long series of ' pat it history of Netherlandish 

r.cd to earn so rich a harvest. When he began work Memlinc was 

still called He»:ling, and to have arrived at Bruges as a wounded soldier. 

. little more than legendary heroes. Roger Van der Weyden was little 

'an a name. Most of the other great Netherlandish artists were either wholly 

th which they had nothing to do. 
Mr. Weale di . nard David, and disentangled his principal works from Mem- 

I confused. During a series of years he published in the 
" Bef/roi," a magazine issued by himself the many important records from ancient 
which : ": mo a food of light upon the whole origin and development of the early 
indish schoe i >sal admission he is hailed all over Europe as the father 

of this study. It is due to him in great measure that the masterpieces of that school, 
y tu gleet were in danger of perishing fifty years ago, are now recognised as among 
tt priceless treasures of the Museums of Europe and the United States. Full- 
ness and accuracy are the characteristics of all Mr. Weale 's work. 

VINCENZO FOPPA OF BRESCIA, Founder of 

the Lombard School, His Life and Work. By Constance 
Jocelyn Ffoulkes and Monsignor Rodolfo Majocchi, d.d., 
Rector of the Collegio Borromeo, Pavia. Based on research in the 
Archives of Milan, Pavia, Brescia, and Genoa, and on the study 
of all his known works. With over 100 Illustrations, many in 
Photogravure, and 100 Documents. Royal 4-to. ^3. 11/. 6d. net. 

Ho complete Life of Vincenzo Foppa has ever been -written: an omission which 
seems almost inexplicable in these days of over-production in the matter of bio- 
graphies of painters, and of subjects relating to the art of Italy. The object of the 
authors of this book has been to present a true picture of the master s life based 
upon tJie testimony of records in Italian archives; all facts hitherto known relating 
to him liaze been brought together ; all statements have been verified ; and a great deal of 
new and unpublisJud material has been added. The authors have unearthed a large 
amount of new material relating to Foppa, o?:e of the most interesting facts brought to 
light being tliat lie lived for twenty-three years longer thatt was formerly supposed. The 
illustrations will include several pictures by Foppa hitherto unknown in the history of art, 
and otlurs -which hai'C never before been published, as well as reproductions of every 
existing work by the master at present known. 

MEMOIRS OF THE DUKES OF URBINO. 

Illustrating the Arms, Art and Literature of Italy from 1440 to 
1630. By James Dennistoun of Dennistoun. A New Edition 
edited by Edward Hutton, with upwards of 100 Illustrations. 
Demy 8vo. 3 vols. 42/. net. 

*** For many years this great book has been out of print, although it still remains the 
chief authority upon the Duchy of Urbino from the beginning of the fifteenth century. 
Mr. Hutton Juts carefully edited the wJiole work, leaving the text substantially the same, 
but adding a large number of new notes, comments and references. Wherever possible 
tlte reader is directed to original sources. Every sort of work has been laid under 
contribution to illustrate the text, and iibliog?-aphies have been supplied on many subjects. 
Besides these notes the book acquires a new value on account of the mass of illustrations 
which it now contains, thus adding a pictorial comment to an historical and critical one. 



io A CATALOGUE OF 

THE PHILOSOPHY OF LONG LIFE. By 

Jean Finot. A Translation by Harry Roberts. Demy 8vo. 
(9 x 5 J inches), js. 6d. net. 

%* This is a translation of a book which has attained to the position of a classic. It 
has already been translated into almost every language, and has, in France, gone into four- 
teen editions in the course of a few years. The book is an exhaustive one, and although 
based on science and philosophy it is in no sense abstruse or remote from general interest. 
It deals with life as embodied not only in man and in the animal and vegetable worlds, but 
in all that great world of (as the author holds) misnamed "inanimate" nature as well. 
For M. Finot argues that all things have life and consciousness, and that a solidarity 
exists which brings together all beings and so-called things. He sets himself to work to 
shozv that life, in its philosophic conception, is an elemental force, and durable as nature 
herself. 

THE DIARY OF A LADY-IN-WAITING. By 

Lady Charlotte Bury. Being the Diary Illustrative of the 
Times of George the Fourth. Interspersed with original Letters 
from the late Queen Caroline and from various other distinguished 
persons. New edition. Edited, with an Introduction, by A. 
Francis Steuart. With numerous portraits. Two Vols. 
Demy 8vo. 21s. net. 

*** This book, which appeared anonymously in 1838, created an enormous sensation, 
and was fiercely criticised by Thackeray and in the Reviews of the time. There is no 
doubt that it was founded on the diary of Lady Charlotte Bury, daughter of the 5th Duke 
of Argyll, and Lady-in- Waiting to the unfortunate Caroline of Brunswick, when 
Princess of Wales. It deals, therefore, with the curious Court of the latter and with the 
scandals that occurred there, as well as with the strange vagaries of the Princess abroad. 
In this edition names left blank in the original have been (where possible) filled up, and 
many notes are given by the Editor to render it useful to the ever-increasing number of 
readers interested in the later Georgian Period. 

JUNIPER HALL : Rendezvous of certain illus- 
trious Personages during the French Revolution, including Alex- 
ander D'Arblay and Fanny Burney. Compiled by Constance 
Hill. With numerous Illustrations by Ellen G. Hill, and repro- 
ductions from various Contemporary Portraits. Crown 8 vo. 5j-.net. 

JANE AUSTEN : Her Homes and Her Friends. 

By Constance Hill. Numerous Illustrations by Ellen G. Hill, 
together with Reproductions from Old Portraits, etc. Cr. 8vo. 5j.net. 

THE HOUSE IN ST. MARTIN'S STREET. 

Being Chronicles of the Burney Family. By Constance Hill, 
Author of " Jane Austen, Her Home, and Her Friends," " Juniper 
Hall," etc. With numerous Illustrations by Ellen G. Hill, and 
reproductions of Contemporary Portraits, etc. Demy 8vo. 2 is. net. 

STORY OF THE PRINCESS DES URSINS IN 

SPAIN (Camarera-Mayor). By Constance Hill. With 12 
Illustrations and a Photogravure Frontispiece. New Edition. 
Crown 8vo. 5/. net. 



MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. ii 
NEW LETTERS OF THOMAS CARLYLE. 

Edited and Annotated by Alexander Carlyle, with Notes and 
an Introduction and numerous Illustrations. In Two Volumes. 
Demy Svo. 25/. net. 

Pall Mall Gazette. — " To the portrait of the man, Thomas, these letters do really add 

value ; we can learn to respect and to like him ihe more for the genuine goodness of his 

personality.' 
Morning Leader. — "These volumes open the very heart of Carlyle." 
Literary, World, — " It b then Carlyle, the nobly filial son, we see in these letters ; Carlyle, 

the generous and affectionate brother, the loyal and warm-hearted friend, . . . and 

above all, Carlyle as the tender and faithful lover of his wife." 
Daily Telegraph. — "The letters are characteristic enough of the Carlyle we know: very 

picturesque and entertaining, full of extravagant emphasis, written, as a rule, at fever 

heat, eloquentlj' rabid and emotional." 

THE NEMESIS OF FROUDE : a Rejoinder to 

" My Relations with Carlyle." By Sir James Crichton Browne 
and Alexander Carlyle. Demy Svo. 3/. 6d. net. 

— ". . . The book practically accomplishes its task of reinstating Carlyle ; 
as an attack on Froude it is rverwhelming." 
Public Opinion. — "The main object of the book is to prove that Froude believed a myth 
and betrayed his trust. That aim has been achieved." 

NEW LETTERS AND MEMORIALS OF JANE 

WELSH CARLYLE. A Collection of hitherto Unpublished 
Letters. Annotated by Thomas Carlyle, and Edited by 
Alexander Carlyle, with an Introduction by Sir James Crichton 
Browne, m.d., ll.d., f.r.s., numerous Illustrations drawn in Litho- 
graphy by T. R. Way, and Photogravure Portraits from hitherto 
unreproduced Originals. In Two Volumes. Demy Svo. 25/. net. 

'lister Gazette. — " Few letters in the language have in such perfection the qualities 
which good letters should possess. Frank, gay, brilliant, indiscreet, immensely clever, 
whimsical, and audacious, they reveal a character which, with whatever alloy of human 
infirmity, must endear itself to any reader of understanding." 

World. — " Throws a deal of new light on the domestic relations of the Sage of Chelsea. 
They also contain the full text of Mrs. Carlyle's fascinating journal, and her own 
' humorous and quaintly candid ' narrative of her first love-affair." 

Dai'.y News. — '' Every page . . . scintillates with keen thoughts, biting criticisms, flashing 
phrases, and touches of bright comedy." 

EMILE ZOLA : Novelist and Reformer. An 

Account of his Life, Work, and Influence. By E. A. Vizetelly. 
With numerous Illustrations, Portraits, etc. Demy 8vo. lis. net. 

Morning Post. — "Mr. Ernest Vizetelly has given . . . a very true insight into the aims, 

character, and life of the novelist." 
Athcnemm. — ". . . Exhaustive and interesting." 
M.A.P. — ". . . will stand as the classic biography of Zola." 
Star. — "This ' Life' of Zola is a very fascinating book." 
Academy. — " It was inevitable that the authoritative life of Emile Zola should be'from the 

pen of E. A. Vizetelly. No one probably has the same qualifications, and this bulky 

volume of nearly six hundred pages is a worthy tribute to the genius of the master." 
Mr. T. P. O'CONNOR in T.P.'s Weekly. — "It is a story of fascinating interest, and is told 

admirably by Mr. Vizeteliy. I can promise any one who takes it up that he will find it 

very difficult to lay it down again." 



12 A CATALOGUE OF 



MEMOIRS OF THE MARTYR KING : being a 

detailed record of the last two years of the Reign of His Most 
Sacred Majesty King Charles the First, 1 646-1 648-9. Com- 
piled by Allan Fea. With upwards of 100 Photogravure 
Portraits and other Illustrations, including relics. Royal 4to. 
1 05 s. net. 

Mr. M. H. Spielmann in The Academy. — "The volume is a triumph for the printer and 

publisher, and a solid contribution to Carolinian literature." 
Pall Mall Gazette. — "The present sumptuous volume, a storehouse of eloquent associations 
. . comes as near to outward perfection as anything we could desire." 

MEMOIRS OF A VANISHED GENERATION 

1 8 1 3-1 855. Edited by Mrs. Warrenne Blake. With numerous 
Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 16s. net. 

*** This work is compiled from diaries and letters dating from the time of the Regency 
to the middle of the nineteenth century. The value of the work lies in its natural un- 
embellished picture of the life of a cultured and well-born family in a foreign environment 
at a period so close to our own that it is far less familiar than periods much ?nore remote. 
There is an atmosphere of Jane Austen's novels about the lives of Admiral Knox and his 
family, and a large number of well-known contemporaries are introduced into Mrs. Blake's 
Pages. 

CESAR FRANCK : A Study. Translated from the 

French of Vincent d'Indy. And with an Introduction by Rosa 
Newmarch. Demy 8vo. js. 6d. net. 

*** There is no purer influence in modern music than that of Cesar Franck, for many 
years ignored in every capacity save that of organist of Sainte-Clotilde, in Paris, but now 
recognised as the legiti7)iate successor of Bach a?id Beethoven. His inspiration " rooted in 
love and faith " has contributed in a remarkable degree to the regeneration of the musical 
art in France and elsezvhere. The noiu famous " Schola Cantorum," founded in Paris in 
1896, by A. Guilmant, Charles Bordes and Vincent d'Indy, is the direct outcome of his 
influence. Among the artists who were in some sort his disciples were Paul Dukas, 
Chabrier, Gabriel Faure and the great violinist Ysaye. His pupils include such gifted 
composers as Benoit, Augusta Holmes, Chausson, Ropartz, and d' Indy, This book, 
written with the devotion of a disciple and the authority of a master, leaves us with 
a vivid and touching impression of the saint-like composer of " The Beatitudes.'" 

FRENCH NOVELISTS OF TO-DAY : Maurice 

Barres, Rene Bazin, Paul Bourget, Pierre de Coulevain, Anatole 
France, Pierre Loti, Marcel Prevost, and Edouard Rod. Bio- 
graphical, Descriptive, and Critical. By Winifred Stephens. 
With Portraits and Bibliographies. Crown 8vo. 51. net. 

*** The rvriter, who has lived much in France, is thorotcghly acquainted with French 
life and with the principal currents of French thought. The book is intended to be a 
guide to English readers desirous to keep in touch with the best present-day French 
fiction. Special attention is given to the ecclesiastical, social, and intellectual problems 
of contetnporary France and their influence upon the works of French novelists of to-day. 

THE KING'S GENERAL IN THE WEST, 

being the Life of Sir Richard Granville, Baronet (1 600-1659). 
By Roger Granville, M.A., Sub-Dean of Exeter Cathedral. 
With Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 10/. 6d. net. 

Westminster Gazette. — "A distinctly interesting work; it will be highly 'appreciated by 
historical students as well as by ordinary readers." 



MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 13 



THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF ROBERT 

Stephen Hawker, sometime Vicar of Morwenstow in Cornwall. 
By C. E. Byles. With numerous Illustrations by J. Ley 
Pethybridge and others. Demy Svo. js. 6J. net. 

Daily Telegraph. — " . . . As soon as the volume is opened one finds oneself in the presence 
of a real original, a man of ability, genius and eccentricity, of whom one cannot know 
too much . . . No one will read this fascinating and charmingly produced book without 
thanks to Mr. Byles and a desire to visit — or revisit — Morwenstow." 

THE LIFE OF WILLIAM BLAKE. By Alexander 

Gilchrist. Edited with an Introduction by W.Graham Robertson. 
Numerous Reproductions from Blake's most characteristic and 
remarkable designs. Demy Svo. ics. 6d. net. New Edition. 

Past. — "Nothing seems at all likely ever to supplant the Gilchrist biography. 
Mr. Swinburne praised it magnificently in his own eloquent essay on Blake, and there 
should be no need now to point out its entire sanity, understanding keenness of critical 
insight, and masterly literary style. Dealing with one of the most difficult of subjects, 
it ranks among the finest things of its kind that we possess." 

MEMOIRS OF A ROYAL CHAPLAIN, 1729-63. 

The correspondence of Edmund Pyle, d.d., Domestic Chaplain to 
George II, with Samuel Kerrich, d.d., Vicar of Dersingham, and 
Rector of Wolferton and West Newton. Edited and Annotated 
by Albert H^rtshorne. With Portrait. Demy Svo. i6i.net. 

Truth. — " It is undoubtedly the most important book of the kind that has been published 
in recent years, and is certain to disturb many readers whose minds have not travelled 
with the time." 

GEORGE MEREDITH : Some Characteristics. 

By Richard Le Gallienne. With a Bibliography (much en- 
larged) by John Lane. Portrait, etc. Crown Svo. 51. net. Fifth 
Edition. Revised. 

Punch. — "All Meredithians must possess 'George Meredith; Some Characteristics,' by 
Richard Le Gallienne. This book is a complete and excellent guide to the novelist and 
the novels, a sort of Meredithian Eradshaw, with pictures of the traffic superintendent 
and the head office at Boxhill. Even Philistines may be won over by the blandishments 
of Mr. Le Gallienne." 

LIFE OF LORD CHESTERFIELD. An account 

of the Ancestry, Personal Character, and Public Services of the 
Fourth Earl of Chesterfield. By W. H. Craig, M.A. Numerous 
Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 1 is. 6d. net. 

Dai'y TelegrapJu — " Mr. Craig has set out to present him (Lord Chesterfield) as one of the 
striking figures of a formative period in our modern history . . . and has succeeded in 
giving us a very attractive biography of a remarkable man." 

Times. — " It is the chief point of Mr. Craig's book to show the sterling qualities which 
Chesterfield was at too much pains in concealing, to reject the perishable trivialities of 
his character, and to exhibit him as a philosophic statesman, not inferior to any of his 
contemporaries, except Waipole at one end of his life, and Chatham at the other." 



14 A CATALOGUE OF 

A QUEEN OF INDISCRETIONS. The Tragedy 

of Caroline of Brunswick, Queen of England. From the Italian 
of G. P. Clerici. Translated by Frederic Chapman. With 
numerous Illustrations reproduced from contemporary Portraits and 
Prints. Demy 8vo. zis. net. 

The Daily Telegraph. — "It could scarcely be done more thoroughly or, on the whole, in 
better taste than is here displayed by Professor Clerici. Mr. Frederic Chapman himself 
contributes an uncommonly interesting and well-informed introduction." 

Westminster Gazette. — "The volume, scholarly and well-informed . . . forms one long and 
absorbingly interesting chapter of the chronique scandaleuse of Court life . . . reads 
like a romance, except that no romancer would care or dare to pack his pages so closely 
with startling effects and fantastic scenes." 

LETTERS AND JOURNALS OF SAMUEL 

GRIDLEY HOWE. Edited by his Daughter Laura E. 
Richards. With Notes and a Preface by F. B. Sanborn, an 
Introduction by Mrs. John Lane, and a Portrait. Demy 8vo 
(9 x 5f inches). 16s. net. 

Outlook. — "This deeply interesting record of experience. The volume is worthily produced 
and contains a striking portrait of Howe." 

Daily News. — " Dr. Howe's book is full of shrewd touches ; it seems to be very much a part 
of the lively, handsome man of the portrait. His writing is striking and vivid ; it is the 
writing of a shrewd, keen observer, intensely interested in the event before him." 

THE LIFE OF ST. MARY MAGDALEN. 

Translated from the Italian of an Unknown Fourteenth-Century 
Writer by Valentina Hawtrey. With an Introductory Note by 
Vernon Lee, and 14 Full-page Reproductions from the Old Masters. 
Crown 8vo. 5/. net. 

Daily News. — " Miss Valentina Hawtrey has given a most excellent English version of this 

pleasant work." 
Academy. — " The fourteenth-century fancy plays delightfully around the meagre details of 

the Gospel narrative, and presents the heroine in quite an unconventional light. . . . 

In its directness and artistic simplicity and its wealth of homely detail the story reads 

like the work of some Boccaccio of the cloister ; and fourteen illustrations taken from 

Italian painters happily illustrate the charming text." 

MEN AND LETTERS. By Herbert Paul, m.p. 

Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5/. net. 

Daily News. — " Mr. Herbert Paul has done scholars and the reading world in general a high 

service in publishing this collection of his essays." 
Punch. — " His fund of good stories is inexhaustible, and his urbanity never fails. On the 

whole, this book is one of the very best examples of literature on literature and life." 

ROBERT BROWNING: Essays and Thoughts. 
By J. T. Nettleship. With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 5/. 6d. net. 
(Third Edition.) 



MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 15 
A LATER PEPYS. The Correspondence of Sir 

William Weller Pepys, Bart., Master in Chancery, 1 758-1 825, 
with Mrs. Chapone, Mrs. Hartley, Mrs. Montague, Hannah More, 
William Franks, Sir James Macdonald, Major Rennell, Sir 
Nathaniel Wraxall, and others. Edited, with an Introduction and 
Notes, by Alice C. C. Gaussen. With numerous Illustrations. 
Demy Svo. In Two Volumes. 32;. net. 

Douglas Sladen in the Queen. — "This is indisputably a most valuable contribution to the 
literature of the eighteenth century. It is a veritable storehouse of society gossip, the 
art criticism, and the mots of famous people." 

Academy atui Literature. — "The effect consists in no particular passages, but in the total 
impression, the sense of atmosphere, and the general feeling that we are being introduced 
into the very society in which the writer moved." 

Daily News. — " To Miss Alice Gaussen is due the credit of sorting out the vast collection of 
correspondence which is here presented to the public. . . . Her industry is indefatigable, 
and her task has been carried out with completeness. The notes are full of interesting 
items ; the introduction is exhaustive ; and the collection of illustrations enhances the 
value of the book." 

World. — "Sir William Pepys 's correspondence is admirable." 

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON, AN ELEGY; 

AND OTHER POEMS, MAINLY PERSONAL. By 

Richard Le Gallienne. Crown Svo. \s. 6d. net. 

Daily Chronicle. — "Few, indeed, could be more fit to sing the dirge of that 'Virgil of 
Prose ' than the poet whose curiosa /elicit 'as is so close akin to Stevenson's own charm." 

Globe. — "The opening Elegy on R. L. Stevenson includes some tender and touching 
passages, and has throughout the merits of sincerity and clearness." 

RUDYARD KIPLING : a Criticism. By Richard 

Le Gallienne. With a Bibliography by John Lane. Crown 
8vo. 3/. 6d. net. 

Guardian. — " One of the cleverest pieces of criticism we have come across for a long time." 

Scotsman — " It shows a keen insight into the essential qualities of literature, and analyses 

Mr. Kipling's product with the skill of a craftsman . . . the positive and outstanding 

merits of Mr. Kipling's contribution to the literature of his time are marshalled by his 

critic with quite uncommon skill." 

POEMS. By Edward Cracroft Lefroy. With a 

Memoir by W. A. Gill, and a Reprint of Mr. J. A. Symonds' 
Critical Essay on " Echoes from Theocritus." Photogravure 
Portrait. Crown Svo. 5/. net. 

The Times.—" ... the leading features of the sonnets are the writer's intense sympathy 
with human life in general and with young life in particular; his humour, his music, and, 
in a word, the quality which ' leaves a melody afloat upon the brain, a savour on the 
mental palate.'" 

Bookman.— "The Memoir, by Mr. W. A. Gill, is a sympathetic sketch of an earnest and 
lovable character ; and the critical estimate, by J. Addington Symonds, is a charmingly- 
written and suggestive essay." 

APOLOGIA DIFFIDENTIS. By W. Compton 

Llith. Demy 8vo. 7/. 6d. net. 

\* The book, which is largely autobiographical, describes the effect of diffidc?ice upon 
an indiridual life, and contains, with a consideration of the nature of shyness, a plea for 
m. kindlier judgment of the inveterate case. 

Daily Mail.—" Mr. Leith has written a very beautiful book, and perhaps the publisher's 
claim that this will be a new classic is not too bold." 



16 MEMOIRS, BIOGRAPHIES, Etc. 
THE TRUE STORY OF MY LIFE : an Auto- 

biography by Alice M. Diehl, Novelist, Writer, and Musician. 
Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net. 

BOOKS AND PERSONALITIES: Essays. By 

H. W. Nevinson. Crown 8vo. 5*. net. 

Daily Chronicle. — " It is a remarkable thing and probably unique, that a writer of such 
personality as the author of ' Between the Acts ' should not only feel, but boldly put 
on paper, his homage and complete subjection to the genius of one after another of 
these men. He is entirely free from that one common virtue of critics, which is 
superiority to the author criticised." 

OTIA : Essays. By Armine Thomas Kent. Crown 
8vo. 51. net. 

BOOKS AND PLAYS : A Volume of Essays on 

Meredith, Borrow, Ibsen, and others. By Allan Monkhouse. 
Crown 8vo. $s. net. 

LIBER AMORIS ; or, The New Pygmalion. 

By William Hazlitt. Edited, with an introduction, by Richard 
Le Gallienne. To which is added an exact transcript of the 
original MS., Mrs. Hazlitt's Diary in Scotland, and Letters never 
before published. Portrait after Bewick, and facsimile Letters. 
400 copies only. 4to. 364 pp. Buckram. 2u.net. 

TERRORS OF THE LAW : being the Portraits 

of Three Lawyers — the original Weir of Hermiston, "Bloody 
Jeffreys," and " Bluidy Advocate Mackenzie." By Francis 
Watt. With 3 Photogravure Portraits. Fcap. 8vo. 4*. 6d. net. 

The Literary World. — "The book is altogether entertaining; it is brisk, lively, and 
effective. Mr. Watt has already, in his two series of ' The Law's Lumber Room,' 
established his place as an essayist in legal lore, and the present book will increase his 
reputation." 

CHAMPIONS OF THE FLEET. Captains and 

Men-of-War in the Days that Helped to make the Empire. By 
Edward Fraser. With 16 Full-page Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 
6s. 

THE LONDONS OF THE BRITISH FLEET : 

The Story of Ships bearing the name of Old Renown in Naval 
Annals. By Edward Fraser. With 8 Illustrations in colours, 
and 20 in black and white. Crown 8vo. 6s. d 



JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, VIGO STREET, LONDON, 



t ,19 9 7 













.k* 












A 












*■ ■■• 












A*' 







♦ .A ' *o. 









/ 




Hi H 



HE 

fflm at 
HE 




H 

aPMjEMfaBlBiifffl 
SSiSffifill wi 

n 

BflWlllfB 

5991 •hqwSI* 

BH B< 

roMJmK ESWHMSVftl 



